5 February

After dropping off to sleep, I lasted for an hour before we stopped at just before midnight. We stayed stationary for just over two hours, but after a short move, we were stationary again. We finally moved of in earnest at about 3:30 a.m.
The night was marred by one young woman (I can’t say a lady) who spoke loudly, either complaining about things (not much point in that, we were all in the same train) or talking far too loudly on her mobile phone, complaining to anyone she knew who would listen. There was also one bloke who had too much to drink, but was still drinking. The woman in particular upset everyone in the carriage.
During the night we appeared to stop in Donner Pass for our two hours. Even though it was difficult to see, the starlight and light from the train gave dramatic views of steep-sided rock cuttings absolutely covered in snow.
The full reason for us being late also emerged. Apart from the engine problems (which were solved by putting two Santa Fe / Burlington North locomotives in front of the existing AMTRAK one) and the crew change situation, apparently some rails had cracked because of the extreme cold. This combined with the backup of freight trains made he train up to sixteen hours late.
Because of the delays, everyone was given a complementary breakfast. While having mine I engaged in conversation with two others, but went back to my seat when the conversation began to centre on the experiences both had had in penitentiaries. Not long after everyone had eaten their breakfast, we arrived in Sacramento. It looked quite a large centre, although obviously overshadowed by San Francisco and Los Angeles.
As we left Sacramento, the intensive agriculture became very evident. Market gardening became the predominant use until grazing took over. After Davis, our next stop, gum trees were in clear sight by the train. Unfortunately for me, they were set against the rising sun, so I couldn’t get pictures of them there. Then there were extensive wetlands, fairly obviously used for hunting by the number of decoys visible in the area. To the east there were at least two large windfarms, but because of the distance it was not possible to accurately count the towers there. On the west, an inlet led to views of a variety of shipping, from domestic boats to large bulk carriers and what looked like a car carrier. We stopped at Martinez and had to wait for the east-bound California Zephyr to leave before we could discharge our passengers. After that, it looked like a quick run into Emeryville (the end of the line) at around midday.
And so it was. We arrived at Emeryville on time according to our amended schedule. After a quick look at the literature I booked my trip from Oakland to Los Angeles on Thursday 7 (at last I know what day of the week it is). I also arranged to get on the train to Oakland and arrived there soon after.
However, finding the Visitors Center in Oakland was a mystery worthy of Agatha Christy. Despite being told by many people exactly where it was, it was never there. After ending up in the same place, many times in many different ways (Oakland, get your act together), I gave up and had lunch. I had already decided where I was going to stay and I take it as a badge of honour to find it. So I went out on the BART to Oakland Airport. While trying to decipher how to use and feed the ticket machines, a little old lady who I stepped back for not only told me and showed me, but was going to the same place. Problem solved. At the station, I used the SatNav to tell me how to get there while walking (different directions to driving, but it still warned me to walk on the right!). As all the best laid plans of mice and men gang oft astray, so it happened to me. I knew what the price I was quoted was, and on my leisurely tramp I espied a Days Inn. They had done me good service in Washington, so I decided to ask. Not only was their rate lower and including free high-speed wireless Internet, they also had a free 24 hour shuttle to the BART station (Bay Area Rapid Transit) – interesting as the BART system doesn’t work 24 hours a day.
I signed up, went up, unpacked a little and divested myself of as much as I could to do some serious walking. I went to the shuttle and the last passenger got a hug and a kiss when leaving – I wondered if that was part of the service to all, but was assured it was his girlfriend. At the station I purchased my ticket and was whisked away to the Civic Center / UN Plaza station. Looking like a native of the area (as much as I can with a camera obviously around my neck), I was asked for help twice. Once I could, once I couldn’t. Not too bad for being in the place a few hours.
I walked along Hyde Street – for no other reason than that was the street to the bay from the station. I saw many typical San Francisco dwellings and streetscapes (but did not see the green Mustang driven by a Steve McQueen lookalike). I compared the dwellings with those I had seen in Washington and New York (didn’t see many dwellings in Chicago or Reno) and was amazed to see a Primary Election booth in the garage of a house (it’s the house with the garage visible underneath in my photos). I saw Lombard Street and a line of vehicles driving very slowly down it. While photographing it, I was joined by a girl from Berkley who had never been there either. I went down to the waterfront and walked along that, out onto the breakwater. Alcatraz looked closer than it really is and the bridges’ apparent size showed how far away from them I was. I decided to take a cable car back, as it was quite a long walk and it was well and truly dark. As a matter of policy, I will pursue the policy of not putting myself in places of possible danger in cities I don’t know when I am by myself. At the cable car I took the photo for a couple from Toronto and they took mine (just for you, Phil). They had been here for a few days and were flying out tonight. Our gripman had a sense of humour, made noises at the other gripmen and played tunes while ringing his warning bell. Stopping right in the middle of the intersection to drop and pick up passengers was, well, interesting. At the terminus, I found (by asking a policeman) that the BART station was only a few metres away. I arrived back at the home station at 7:10 and rang, and within five minutes was being brought back. The driver has lived in San Francisco all his life and never been on a cable car – he’s now going to do it so the tourists don’t beat him.
Back in my room I downloaded, named, shrunk and posted all the photos. I called a friend in Benson and confirmed my ETA there. I had a shower and then wrote up this blog, posted it and went to sleep.
A long day – almost the last of this type on my trip, as in Canada I will be in a sleeper continuously on the train (the Canadian) and the Eurostar is a short trip. The rest of the time I will be in a car, except in Japan where I will already have arrangements made for accommodation. The only day remaining like this is when I travel to LA on Thursday.
Now decisions – what do I see tomorrow?