Friday, February 29, 2008

29 February

After a very thorough night’s sleep (I can recommend driving through deep snow with falling snow, on narrow roads, in unfamiliar territory to create tiredness quickly) I got up at 6:30, had my toast for breakfast (no supplied breakfast today!) then got ready to leave. After checking out, I tried to use the scraper the motel had, but while it removed snow, it did nothing for the ice on the windscreen. I poured water I had over the screen as I used the wipers, and that got rid of most.
I gently drove out on the way to Dubuque and then had to fill up with petrol as I left Cedar Rapids. Once out of the town it was okay and the road had already been ploughed, so I was able to make good time to Dubuque. In fact my time was so good I arrived before the museum opened, so I had to wander around and have a look around the area. I was struck by the US Coast Guard having a station there.
Just before 10 a school group turned up so I went in too. I got a quick outline of the museum and the movies playing. I found where the movies were, so fitted my looking around with the playing of the movies. I saw all the indoor displays and a few outside, but the snow outside meant some were cordoned off. I had lunch there, and had to share a table as the school group had taken all the others. I ended up chatting away with the staff of the museum, who were interested to know how I heard about it (from a woman on the train from Chicago to Reno), what I thought of it (good) and whether I had visited any similar (I had at Stoke-on-Trent, a canal boat museum, in 1980). They were surprised I knew much about the river and the US in general, but that changed when they found out I was a teacher (of Geography, amongst other things).
After lunch I set off to call in on a couple I had met on my first day. I had called them but had to leave messages. At their home no-one was there, so I left a note and drove on. Before I left their town, I just had to photograph the Mississippi – and was careful not to sink into the Mississippi as I made six inch deep holes as I walked down to take them (see the photos). The road from Dubuque to LeClaire was part of the Big River Road, the route along the Mississippi I wanted to drive, but time and weather have made me put it off (either if I return at some stage in the future, or otherwise forever).
As I had to pass through LeClaire on my way, I called in to send out an email and post my photos and blog (as I wasn’t sure where I would be tonight). That went well, but then the three ladies working there engaged me in conversation (as at least one recognised me from yesterday) so a brief stopover changed into an half-hour stop. One comment was that both Bill Bryson and Iowa were better off when he left. That ambiguous statement is correct both ways.
When I left I was immediately onto the Interstate so progress improved. The road was better, there was less snow and I passed into Illinois (within a minute, as all I had to do was cross the Mississippi from LeClaire) and then after three hours into Indiana. The Welcome Centre was unmanned, but maps, brochures and coupon books were there, so I found one for a Super8 Motel in Brownsburg ($49.99 + tax) but it had Internet and breakfast, rang them and they had room. Just over an hour later I was there and checked in. Getting everything ready takes a bit of time; find the room, park, unload, set up power, plug in computer and battery charger, change batteries in the camera, set up clothes for tomorrow and then sit down and get the pictures out and named, then shrunk, write up my blog (and although I desperately want to go to bed and sleep, I know once I don’t do it, I will stop doing it and I don’t want that to happen) and post everything.
Now, nearly an hour and a half after pulling in, I’m just about ready to complete my work and go to bed and let the TV put me to sleep.

28 February

I woke early at the “Inn by the Lake”, but waited until 6 to get up. There was a great sunrise visible through the back window, but little light out front. Breakfast didn’t have toast, so I had to settle for corn flakes with milk. I splurged with a muffin and took an apple to eat later.
After I had checked out, the windscreen was still iced over, so I scraped it with a foil packet to remove some, but not all. I have to remember to put the back screen heater on and the ventilator onto the inside of the screen with full heat – eventually it will melt all the ice.
Then it was off to the dam – the Kentucky Dam, so there must only be one from the Tennessee Valley Authority in the state. I was able to get some good views, but the Visitors Centre didn’t open until 9 so it was off onto I-75 and heading north still. It wasn’t that long until I entered Illinois and thus soon after I was at a Visitors Centre there and getting some information on Illinois. After that I had to refuel and continued on. The weather looked finer the further north I went, so I held great hopes for the future.
After getting some lunch further in the day, I eventually passed into Iowa. Here the Visitors Centre did have Internet access so I sent out a bulk email but there was none in. I got information on Dubuque (with a museum on the Mississippi, as I won’t be able to drive along very much of it at all, given the weather and the time left (only twenty-one days now). I also visited the post office and posted off a letter to Mike from the UDT-SEAL museum and got some cartons to order and post souvenirs back home (well, to Fran’s) before they crowd the car out.
After that the weather deteriorated. The temperature didn’t drop much and it wasn’t really low (I was able to go out and visit each place just in shirt-sleeves) but the snow started to come down. Traffic, which had all been travelling at the speed limit or higher, slowed down. Some slowed down excessively, unless they had never driven in snow before. I quickly found that the best way was to be about forty to fifty metres behind the car in front, travelling far enough behind that I could slow or stop, but not so far that snow landed on the road between us. The snow kept falling more and more heavily but speeds kept up (at least in the fast lane – in the slow lane cars were down to a walking pace).
All remained well until I went off the main Interstate and went onto a state highway with far less traffic. Here I found that most drivers were either too cautious or too reckless, so I travelled at my selected speed and found I had an entourage, but none wanted to pass. It was also getting dark so that complicated things. The wonderful part came when I had to turn left across the median and the other lane – but the snow had completely covered the left-turn lane and the median crossover. I had faith in the SatNav and so when it gave me no distance to travel I turned – and the median gap was there!
It became far more interesting as I headed into the rural area around Mount Vernon to visit a friend there. The roads had been ploughed in the morning, but there had been heavy falls since then. I could see where the road was by the banks on each side so I kept roughly to the right (correct side – I remembered). As there had been little traffic, snow was thick in some places, so I was down to second gear in spots to keep traction – braking made the front go everywhere and acceleration could take the car anywhere (why I DON’T like front-wheel drive in cars). Eventually I was down to the last road and travelling slowly when I saw my first deer – it was smaller than I expected, but moving as quickly as I expected, so it was out of the way by the time I got there. When I arrived at Lori’s place I parked and knocked on the front door – and met Paul. We spent the next (nearly) three hours chatting away like we had known each other for ages – which we had, just never met. All good times come to an end and I had to head off, so after saying goodbye, I went out to find the car – under a little snow. Very gently I manoeuvred it out of the yard and onto the road. It was first gear until I got to a trafficked road and could see where the lanes where. By the time I got to the highway I was confident enough to drive within by capability and not be pressured by anyone else. It did worry me when I caught up to a convoy of traffic and had to slow down considerably. I got into Cedar Rapids and found the (by now) familiar Motel 6 – being close to major exits and having standard facilities makes them a good choice when times are late or bookings have to be made in advance. Also their prices remain the same as quoted. The motel was surrounded by banks of snow and I was told there had been cancellations as motorists couldn’t get through. At my door the bank was over a foot high, so I had to tramp through that to partially unload the car. I must remember when I check out to scrape both screens clean before I drive out – and have both screens warm.
I rang Paul and Lori so they would know I arrived safely and also left a message with Fran. I now have about five hours experience driving in snow, but would prefer to keep it at that.
After doing my now normal computer work recording, I went to bed.

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

27 February

I woke with the alarm at 5:30 and promptly went back to sleep, finally rising just before 6 and being down for breakfast about 6:20. There were a few others there, but again it was a quiet time.
I checked out and was on the road before 7 and out of Clermont in a few minutes. The itinerary was light – get onto I-75 north and keep going until Chattanooga, then get onto I-24 west and then look for somewhere to stay for the night.
Across the border into Georgia and I visited the Welcome Centre and got some materials. It was reasonable there and, of course, inside the car I could have it as I wanted.
Going through Atlanta, I was THE ONLY VEHICLE travelling at the speed limit. Because the Interstate weaves around a bit, I had to keep changing lanes to make sure I didn’t get caught in the wrong lane – so there was a line of cars behind me. I wonder if I made the news? Then at the Tennessee border, when I got out, it was a different story – freezing, as shown on the outside thermometer. On the road after this it was snowing, but only light flakes which melted on the road and the car.
I was only in Tennessee for a relatively short time, then back into Georgia, back into Tennessee and into Kentucky. Here, at well after 6 (I had gained an hour because of time zones), the staff had gone from the Welcome centre, but the materials remained and the door was open. I found one of the “coupon books” for travellers and saw a reasonably priced motel, on my way at about the right time, at only $29.99 for the night (including Internet and breakfast). It started snowing again, a little heavier than before and more interesting, as the flakes were driving into the headlights. I arrived at 7:50 at the “Inn by the Lake”, just outside Calvert City KY and was able to get a room at that price, so I booked in. The motel manageress’ son now lives in Australia, with an Australian bride, but she couldn’t recall the place. However I did learn that the dam is one of a series on the Tennessee river and is used by the Tennessee Valley Authority to generate hydroelectricity. By manipulating releases and flows, they control the generated power and also maintain the level in the lakes for recreational purposes. I parked the car, found the room, unpacked only what I needed, went up and did my administrative work for the evening, then went off to sleep.
I need to congratulate Tennessee – they have the only correct signs for lane placement I have seen (“trucks use the right 2 lanes” rather than the incorrect “trucks use the 2 right lanes” as there is only one right lane). However I am more than ever convinced that speedometers must be an option few US owners of cars have installed and that no matter what the policing agency, they do not even look unless a vehicle is way over the limit. I can see a fortune being made by the first person who installs remote automatic speed cameras throughout the US.
After the day’s driving, having polaroid glasses made the day less tiring, but the car is definitely not up the standards of any of the cars at home. It is as much work driving eight hundred kilometres in the Pontiac as about sixteen hundred in DOUG. I can now theorise why the fuel tank is so small – so you have to get out every few hours and therefore don’t realise how uncomfortable the seats are (rather like ARTIE). Not having amber turn lights on the cars makes it hard to tell if a car is “blipping” its brake lights or turning a corner (not lane changing, because no-one uses an indicator then anyway).

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

26 February

Today I awoke in my motel to find that it was a different car next door and it was to leave before I went out. Fortunately the motel operator didn’t have to go up to see his mother in a house up the hill behind, nor did he have to wash blood out of the shower, but I was tempted to ask what the room rate was by the hour. (Just in case you are wondering, the room had a mirror behind the bed and at the foot, so there was an image which receded into the distance with size diminishing with each frame.)
However, just to show that you can have the good with the bad, this has been the first place I have stayed in where I had two taps for the shower and could adjust the water flow. Every other place ahs had a fixed water flow and only the temperature could be adjusted. Also, the towel actually dried me completely without having to resort to using another to finish drying my feet (a cause for concern as I can’t afford to have anything go wrong with my feet while I am travelling).
After making my toast (the cheap toaster has already paid for itself) and knowing the smoke alarm wouldn’t go off because I was in a smoking room) and getting ready, I was off. It was a relatively quick and straight run up to the Kennedy Space Centre. I arrived and parked before 8:40 and was amazed to see a fleet of over fifty buses waiting on the other side of the (very large) car park. In line I was talking with a couple from New Mexico and compared my view of Carlsbad Caverns with what I may being seeing soon. The organization was quite good and ticket sales had already started (even though the building didn’t open until 9). I got the extra tour of the launch sites.
Then it was a queue through detectors. This time one person got you through the metal detectors and then another person checked the goods in the tray – and you had to exit past them, not go back. These people had obviously had far better training than the ones at the Johnson Space Centre.
I had a quick look around to orient myself as the tour was to start at 9:50. There is certainly a lot to see and do, so I photographed some parts and then headed off for the tour. Again it was well organised, with only the correct number assigned to the bus, and we were soon off. At the same time, the included tour (which didn’t go out to the launch sites, etc.) was already starting but that was on a “first come, first served” basis – and then I knew why they had all those buses.
We went out to the public viewing site for the launches. The price is very reasonable, but with limited tickets, they are difficult to get. I won’t be back on March 11 to see the launch! Then we went to a site to view both shuttle launch pads. Then it was off to Vehicle Assembly Building, the shuttle landing strip and then to the Saturn V rocket (where I had lunch and the trays were the outline of the Apollo capsules) and the International Space Station facility. This was the end of our separate tour, after just under two hours (and I wonder where the time went). Back at the centre I went on the Shuttle simulation (included, not an extra in the price, and the lockers where you HAD to store what may drop (as you tilt through at least ninety degrees and shake quite a lot) were also included – you used a quarter, but it was refunded). Here, while waiting (surprise, in a queue!) I was chatting with a fisherman from Canada – Prince Edward Island – who was also on the simulator with his daughter, but his wife declined.
The Shuttle simulation was dramatic – the buzz was nearly the same as driving very quickly in the NT before limits came in, because around 240 km is as quick on roads as the simulated 17 500 miles per hour is in space. But the acceleration and the vibration was another thing.
After that, things came to a halt as a torrential downpour stopped any movement outside. The time was spent in conversation with a chap from New England, who lives around here for half the year, and was showing his grandson and his friend around. After that, I went through a few exhibitions and finished up at the “Meet an Astronaut” theatre where Al Worden, a member of the Apollo 15 crew, spoke to us. That is him with me in the photo at the end of today’s collection.
I finally left at 5:45 and could have cheerfully come back for another day, but time is running out. I decided to head over west a little and then work out whether to go north (to Ohio and Iowa) or further west (to Missouri), After dark the rain poured down again and by 7:50 I started to look for somewhere to stay. As usual, when you want something it can’t be found, so I put the SatNav to work and suddenly motels popped up everywhere. I decided to try another Howard Johnson and found a room at a reasonable price in Clermont FA (you have to add the state as there are the same names in a lot of states). I got in, found the room, unpacked a little, did my photos and blog, then checked emails and went off to bed, later that I would have liked but after an exciting day.

25 February

After a good night’s sleep (but punctuated at intervals by some of the locals showing off the capabilities of their cars in the street) I was up and ready for breakfast just before 8. I located the area (around the pool – the barbecue area was being renovated by one of the owners and looked like it would be out of action for at least the rest of the year.
I thought that I would be one of the first – but there was already someone in the pool, one family with young children, a few couples and quite a few singles. I got a cup of tea, but no real milk – just the “moo half and half”, described in the past already. This, together with orange juice – for all the hype about the freshly squeezed juice, it tastes very little different from any of the “no name” orange juices at home, and most likely has more sugar – saw me through until five minutes later when the breakfast makings arrived. I had my toast with Vegemite, and despite everyone there, no-one made a comment or asked about it. I can only conclude people are very blind, purposefully ignorant of those around them or so mindful of the feelings of others that they wouldn’t presume to ask or comment on a different breakfast spread.
I checked out and walked back to the car and packed everything up and headed off into downtown Key West. That was easy to find, but parking wasn’t. I eventually found a spot at a meter which was 10 cents for 4 minutes so I tried 18 minutes (one quarter and two nickels) and headed off for Highway One Marker Zero (found just ten metres away) and Hemingway’s house (nine minutes walk away). By the time I photographed a kapok tree, chickens that were wandering loose around the streets (one hen with chicks), Hemingway’s house and the markers (and tried to activate “Walk” buttons which had the buttons broken) I got back just after the meter expired. I had been warned when I parked the car that fines would happen quickly and severely, so I quickly drove off. As I did, I thought of the land of the free with the Key West Police Department, the Monroe County Sheriff and the Florida Highway Patrol, not to mention CIA, FBI, ATF and assorted other agencies to keep it that way.
The drive back along the keys was slow and interesting. The newer bridges were being used (except for those still under construction) and the older bridges were either just left or used for fishing. Other users of the bridges (and other structures) were birds, who found wonderful resting places (cormorants drying off in the sun on high voltage power lines are VERY safe) and new food sources (with birds from pelicans down in size hanging around anglers for a food source which didn’t require too much energy to get).
Either side of the road parts of the keys were visible, as well as many islands just off the keys. One in particular was just east of the road and had a few tents pitched on it. With two boats and three canoes pulled ashore, it looked like an ideal place for children to camp. Other islands looked like perfect scenes for Treasure Island (and probably were used for some films).
Power poles were mounted on concrete piers and water came in pipes beside the bridges. There were some poles which looked like power poles but carried lights and sirens for hurricane warnings. Judging by the houses, which were down to the water’s edge, early warnings would be a good idea.
I noticed that the signs of “NO PASSING” and “DO NOT PASS” were back, as in Arizona, but with little effect as overtaking was regularly occurring at those spots.
All in all, with a few stops for photos, it took nearly three and a half hours to clear the one hundred and twenty-five miles to the mainland. After that it was a run up the tollway to get to Fort Pierce as quickly as possible. What I didn’t reckon on was a toll booth every ten miles to collect $1 and then, after $5 went west (or north, as that’s where I was going), I pulled up all ready to pay at the last booth where I got given a ticket instead. Then, when I finally left the tollway, there was another $5.70 to pay. I wonder why Florida doesn’t get federal funding for through roads and has to make tollways instead, especially when they are parallel to the Interstates.
During the trip I noticed a lot of “No trucks in left lane” signs, but noticed one truck doing just that. I wondered why nothing was done and then saw a State Trooper pull the truck over. I also noticed that the speed of every vehicle dropped to the legal limit as long as the car was visible.
At 3:15 I arrived at the Navy UDT-SEAL Museum in Fort Pierce. I walked in and was just about to ask the woman at the desk about Mike when I realised it was Sue, his wife, and his daughter was there too. She recognised me and went to get Mike. Mike then took me through the museum.
I would like to say that I took a lot of photos, but they are all classified and if I showed you, the secret services would have to eliminate you. The reality is simpler – Mike’s description of each item, and how it fitted into the development of the SEALs was so interesting and detailed, bringing life to a simple object and including at least one anecdote of each, that I just forgot to take pictures along the way. I did get two at the end, of Mike and the museum, and encourage anyone who passes this was to pull into it and have a look. Though small, unless you leave well over an hour, you won’t really see everything, and you are advised to leave at least two hours if you read the material and study the exhibits. I bade farewell to Mike and headed off, looking for a cheaper establishment to balance out my accommodation budget. I found one not far down the road, certainly not the Ritz, but clean and comfortable. After booking in (and being induced into a discussion of cricket and football with a West Indian) I went to a WalMart and got a pair of sunglasses (not what I wanted but good enough to stop me getting as tired as I did today, straining in the sun). After some tea on the way back, I wrote my blog up and went to bed, to leave early to get to the Kennedy Space Centre tomorrow.
Just to add some mystery into the mix, as I left Key West I noticed a Real Estate firm – not Realtor! I had already noticed two theatres, one in Carslbad and one in the Keys. Then leaving the museum this afternoon I noticed a “Harbour Rise”. Funny – I had always thought that American spelling was standard and of the alternative and shortened form.
Some other interesting points include:
- that petrol prices have no cycle, but vary for no apparent reason. So far the lowest I have paid is about $2.80 per gallon (74 cents Australian per litre) and the most I COULD have paid was 94 cents – I got sick of having to go inside when the petrol pumps wouldn’t take my postcode as the ZIP code for verification, so I added a zero after the four-digit postcode and the pump accepted it – great security!
- I haven’t yet seen any kangaroos as road kill, but I have seen a deer, a coyote, a racoon and an alligator (and I didn’t stop to render any aid to the alligator, just in case he wasn’t fully deceased).

Sunday, February 24, 2008

24 February

Today started out well with me up not long after 6 and having breakfast. Unusually, at this early time there was a large number in the (small) lobby. It looked like a school, sporting or church group with a large number of girls, one or two boys and about five parents (or teachers, or both). Kids were coming in at all times with tales of how they had slept (or not, as the case may be, as they were too busy playing). They certainly were not inquisitive as no-one asked about the jar of Vegemite I had with me.
That finished, it was a final pack and check and then off. I was a bit too efficient in one way as I arrived at the first Visitors Centre in the Everglades area well before it opened, so I just had a quick glance at what I was missing and pressed on. At the next Centre, not only was it open (well, ten minutes after I arrived) but there were some alligators and birds present to keep up the interest. In some ways the alligators were disappointing, as I expected them to be larger and far more ferocious and threatening. But to counteract that, they were free and roaming around in a pool just in front of the centre. The cormorants were fishing so the alligators can’t be perceived as too much of a threat to them. Here I spoke to a couple who had come down from New York because of the weather (note: this should have put me on guard, but it didn’t). In the Centre I found out there were panthers locally (see picture of warning sign) and that there were crocodiles in the Everglades with the alligators (but only pipsqueaks compared to our “salties”).
When going along I decided that an airboat ride (just for the experience) was in order. At the first place I stopped (just before 10) there was no-one else waiting, so after a futile ten minutes (except for some more good alligator photos) I went down to the next airboat franchise. Here, within a minute, a family arrived so our boat was ready to go. The husband was from England, the wife from New Zealand and the son was born and lived in the US – three distinctly different accents all in the one family!
The ride was interesting for the different view of the Everglades – the small lanes formed by the movement of the reeds by the boats, the “islands” and the wildlife. The driver warned about hats flying off, so I kept mine firmly in my grasp – so off went my sunnies instead. Now I really do have to get a new pair, so I will try Target or WalMart tomorrow. The ride was supposed to be thirty minutes with a ten minute walk in the middle, but ours ended up being nearly fifty minutes – good value!
After that I set off to enter the actual Everglades National Park. The Visitors Centre was outside the park, good for those who couldn’t decide whether to go in or not. There were good displays plus some informative films. I went in, using my pass, and went right down to the Flamingo area. There aren’t any flamingos there at present, but again there was a good informative centre (with an osprey nest on a set of aerials). I went in search of the crocodiles and found a cat on a lead instead. The owner pointed out where the crocs should be, and mentioned the cat was on a lead so he wouldn’t get lost (they were on a boat). He had been in the crew of the winner of the Sydney-Hobart yacht race in 1975 (Kialoa III (USA, which set a record which was maintained for twenty-one years) so was familiar with parts of Australia and my accent.
I managed to find one crocodile, so got the best picture I could before having some lunch (the facilities were damaged in a hurricane and only light refreshments are available). Then I cruised the rest of the park and saw some more of the areas for public viewing.
After that, with the temperature rising (I had already found that I had to carry the camera on the dash, to keep it warm so it wouldn’t fog up) I headed off to see the Florida Keys. The interminable roadworks continued to haunt me, and the traffic coming back to the mainland was something. At one point there was a four mile traffic jam (and that should have told me something more!). By the time I got down to Key West (the farthest key) I was out of accommodation options. I called into a Visitors Centre (just a small hut, not as elaborate as the states had) and found, naturally, that it was the peak of the peak season, made worse by the very cold weather up north. I found a place, a “private hotel”, and then had to find somewhere to park. With all that settled, I transferred the photos and processed them and the laptop picked up the network in the hotel. The photos went off and I wrote my blog, posted that (but not before I finished writing it, which was a few minutes later), checked and answered some emails and then went off to bed, ready to see Hemingway’s house and mile marker 0 in the morning before I head back off to the mainland to arrive at Cape Kennedy on Tuesday (it’s Sunday today) and do some shopping (hopefully) tomorrow for Polaroid sunglasses and to post off more souvenir material (and visit another museum, but that will be on Tuesday morning if I miss it – it’s the USN SEAL museum).

Saturday, February 23, 2008

23 February

Yet another interesting day dawned – but with overcast skies and threatening rain, occurred may be a better description. With the weather looking so poor, I stayed in bed a little longer, then got up, showered and dressed and went down for breakfast.
In these hotels/motels which provide a “free continental breakfast”, it is usually in the lobby area, with about four to six tables and everything is self-service. I have found out there usually are tea bags, so it’s a matter of locating hot water and milk (not the moo half-and-half, which purports to be milk and probably was at one stage, but hasn’t been for the last few years, judging by the taste compared to real milk). Then after putting raw toast into the toaster (or baked bread, depending on your point of view) and awaiting it to pop out, it’s getting the vegemite ready and finding a knife – curse plastic cutlery!
So breakfast can be an experience, but usually a solitary one. Even if there are couples or families, it is usual to have absolute silence – even a “thank you” is murmured low – and so there is little possibility for interaction. I know I have not shared the experience with other Australians because my vegemite jar is assiduously ignored by all others.
At the end, everything goes into the trash and all leave. It’s usually spread from 6 to after 9 so there are often only two, at the most three, tables occupied.
Then it was back, finish packing and check out. The look around the room is detailed but quick, as I usually don’t spread my articles around (anything in a drawer will be forgotten). I leave knowing I have everything but not where it is.
The drive out of Tallahassee was about 400 metres, onto the Interstate. In most places, the less expensive (read “cheap and nasty, but within my budget”) chains are all on the approaches. If there are two or three of the same chain in the same town, the prices go up as you centre on “downtown”. Personally I don’t mind being further out unless there is a compelling reason to stay in close. It also means an early getaway as the traffic is usually going the other way.
The run along I-10 was good. The even-numbered Interstates run east-west and therefore the one I turned into to go south down the length of Florida was I-75. Here the traffic became heavier (snowbirds?), less predictable (drivers changing lanes erratically and speed for no reason – indicators are obviously an extra-price option on most US cars, as are ashtrays by the number of cigarettes I saw dangling out windows) and the road surface deteriorated (a lot of traffic heads this way). Then, just to make sure life remained interesting, back came the rain – with a vengeance! For at least three occasions, it was heavy enough to get me back to 45 mph from the allowed 70 (but not some, who persisted at 80 or more).
Once past Tampa (about the half-way point down Florida), the rain ceased and blue sky appeared. The car told me the outside temperature was 80°F and I didn’t believe it until I got out at a Visitors Centre (nowhere as elaborate or comfortable as those in the other states passed so far, but I suppose once you are in Florida and it’s snowing everywhere else, they don’t have to work hard to keep you here). There I found out that there isn’t cheap accommodation available down here – it’s rather like the Gold Coast, but on a state-wide scale. I settled on trying a Days Inn at Fort Myers, so I could get an early night and a quick start down to the Everglades tomorrow.
Surprisingly there was a room available (smoking, which of course Australia doesn’t have anymore) and on the first floor (which I always rue until I get there and remember it is actually the ground floor). The air-con was on, which surprised me again until I remembered this part of Florida is tropical and the humidity today was about 100%.
Despite dire predictions, the wireless Internet actually worked and was reasonably high-speed, uploading the last three days of pictures (but none today, by 4 p.m.) while I typed this out.
After doing a bit of reading and research on the Everglades, I went out for tea and then came back to send everything and then go to bed to leave as early as possible tomorrow.

Friday, February 22, 2008

22 February

Stop the presses: sandwich found! More later.
Before I went to sleep last night, I was watching the History Channel and saw two interesting shows – one was on the Donner Pass and the other was on Interstate 70 through the Rockies. Both of these I had seen for myself so my plans of sleeping early went down the drain.
I did sleep in a little, then showered and dressed and went down for breakfast (if walking four doors can be described as such). The weather was still overcast, warm and humid, so I decided to stay another day here in Tallahassee (if only to be able to spell Tallahassee correctly a number of times).
I headed out to see a cavern, described as the only one of its kind in Florida. I must remember that because most of the states are small, that often is of little significance. This required a little backtracking, no real problem as now I saw what I went through last night. I arrived in the Florida Caverns State Park before I left the motel (due to the time difference) and was told there would be a long wait to see through the cave as a school had booked the early tours. However I managed to tag along with one (Maclay School, from Tallahassee – see, I worked the name in again!) and so saw over the cave at the 10 o’clock tour. In the short wait time, I harangued the local law enforcement officer (the State Parks have police too) and found out about the semi-trailers with only tandem axles in the rear (weight limits because of bridges) and the State retirement schemes (just like ours, you can retire from one and work for another and then retire from it, accumulating benefits along the way. It was just like being back at work and I even told one child to do up his laces so he wouldn’t trip, on the way in. As it was a small group (about twenty children and three adults) it was a very intimate tour through the cave. I was even able to explain what the term “in the limelight” meant as the guide mentioned miners’ acetylene lamps. After a quick look through the visitors’ centre there I was off and back to Tallahassee and in to see the museum. Here it became more interesting. As well as very good displays of local material (and the usual problem of funding, etc.) I found the museum on the GROUND floor when it was actually the basement. I was asking the front desk person (who I found out was a volunteer) about the museum and the token necessary to allow me to get my car out of the car park when we ended up in a linguistic discussion. Her supervisor came over and the discussion became even more interesting. I went off to see the displays (my reason for being there) and, apart from interesting displays, found myself talking to a couple about retirement, Australia and the upcoming US presidential elections. I also ended up chatting to a girl in a wheelchair and her mother about the museum. Deciding to support the facilities I went to the café and ordered a sandwich and got a SANDWICH, not a burger in a bun! The girl and her mother (who I spoke to earlier) were there with her father. Chatting away (as the mother had to translate my order – I didn’t realise my accent was so broad) we discussed what I was visiting and it turned out he is the director of a Navy SEAL museum (and did exercises with Australian SAS troops and would like to visit Australia for an extended time) and he gave me his card and the directions to the museum. The only problem is, of course, this will eat into my other plans, but quite often things like this turn out to be the best part.
Then it was over to the new Capitol to visit the Observation deck (22 floors up and a wonderful view all around – but if the day was clear I would have seen to the Gulf) after a security check – but this time the officers were thoroughly professional and made sure everything was scanned and checked – not just me through the detector! One even saw me to the lift and explained the quickest way to get up there. Upstairs there was only me and a few others setting up a display. If this was private enterprise, there would have been queues, tickets, multiple screenings (instead of just the one proper one) and it would have cost.
Then it was to the old Capitol which is now a museum of the government as well as the buildings. This was beautifully restored and was a mine of information – too much to be absorbed in the time available but I was able to get a good overview (it was presented warts and all, with truth being more important than a fancy and glossy veneer.
It closed at 4:30 so I returned to my motel, walked down to a Chinese Restaurant and had a real meal for a change, then scampered back in the aftermath of a torrential downpour which had happened while I was eating. Then I wrote up my blog, processed the photos, continued to try to upload the pictures (this time only a few at a time), then went to bed for a long sleep.

Thursday, February 21, 2008

21 February

I woke this morning on schedule, at about 5:10. For some reason time zones don’t seem to make too much difference – I wish they would and I could get a sleep-in at some stage.
After the usual preparation I was up at the office by 7 and left the card. It was raining, but not too bad. Then I headed off to the Florida Visitors Centre and got some more information about the Naval Aviation Museum and history areas. Off to the Museum and the SatNav wanted me to go one way and the signed route wanted me to go another. I followed the signs but got nagged at by the SatNav at every intersection. It became annoying because of the rain, which was getting heavier.
I found the Museum without any trouble and had to show my passport to get a temporary pass, which took me back about thirty years.
Once I was in the museum I looked around for the tours. The “trolley” tour of the flight line for 10:30 was already booked out, because that was the one which entered the restoration work area. I had to settle for the 11:30 one which only does the actual aircraft outside. I looked around inside from 9:20 until 11:20, then picked up the tour. It was raining even more heavily now, and the photos taken outside are through water droplets on the windows. That wasn’t the worse, as the timber sides of the “trolley” leaked and, leaning against the side to take the photos, I ended up with wet trousers. I ended up being one of six or so who had the same problem.
I was going to have lunch there, but the café was crowded with patrons, so after a final look around I left about 1 p.m.
I went into Pensacola hoping to spend a few hours wandering around the historic precinct but by now the water in the streets was at least a few inches deep and the rain was heavier still. I called in at the central Visitors Centre but the staff were unable to suggest something given the time and the weather. I decided to head off southwards and to beat the weather and set off on State Highway 98. This gives a beautiful view of the Gulf Islands and the Gulf. The only problem was that I couldn’t see the beach let alone the sea or the islands. After a few hours I gave up as the rain was getting even heavier, the wind was gusting and the speed limits were varying between 25 and 55 mph. I filled up with petrol (the American Express card I used had no problems, whereas my MasterCard has had constant problems at the pumps – but nowhere else!) and had some lunch, then headed over to I-10. I was considering going to Tampa, but with the time difference, the distance and the weather, I gave in and stopped at Tallahassee. This time I tried a Howard Johnson, as they advertise Internet access and free breakfast (but at a higher price than a Motel6). Even though I got in at 7:40 local time (6:40 by my watch).
Part of the reason for pulling in was that the rain kept gusting, the roads (which are a good system, but need maintenance in quite a few places) had pools of water in the traffic-wear grooves (where most drivers keep their wheels and so are slightly lower than the rest of the road) which meant that every lane change was accompanied by aquaplaning – aggravated by the front-wheel-drive on the Pontiac. Add to this the traffic speed of around 75 mph (even the trucks, but at least they didn’t hit the 85 one car was doing as it appeared and passed me in almost a blur but certainly a huge amount of spray and total loss of vision for me) and I decided to call it quits. And just to add to this, as I went to turn off the Interstate in Tallahassee, there were roadworks and the exits were almost invisible – as it was really dark by now, 7:30 when I entered the city area.
So I have settled back and have the TV on, watching a reality show about poor driving and thinking I’ve been watching it this afternoon and evening.
Now to download this (I’ve had trouble with the pictures, but I’ll try again later) and then go to sleep. It’s still raining heavily outside and there has been thunder and lightning.

20 February

Once again my plans went haywire due to the well-meaning efforts of people at visitor’s centres.
I got up reasonably early to leave just after 7. That part went fine. I got out of Baton Rouge quickly and was settled in on the Interstate. It wasn’t too long before I was out of Louisiana and into Mississippi. Here the Visitors Centre had the charm and appearance of someone’s home. Free coffee or soft drink (yes, that’s what they called it, not sodas), Internet access (wireless) and fine furniture to sit on. I sent out my blogs and checked my mail, but had trouble uploading pictures (probably the connection limits file size transfers).
And here’s where the first problem of the day arose. NASA has a space centre just down the road where they test jet engines (and other agencies do other things). They had a free tour and bus – so at that price, and having a real interest in that (when we were young, our Christmas trees came from around the jet engine test stands at Laverton North), I went on that. Two hours came and went as I learned more about the space program and what goes on (and what Australia missed out on, having spent some time looking at our achievements at Woomera). On the bus on the way back, a couple were chatting to me and mentioned that I would probably like to see the USS Alabama – so when I called in at the Alabama Visitors Centre (they didn’t try to compete with the others – just friendly and informative service), I asked for and got information on the USS Alabama. I called in about 1:45 – and didn’t get to leave until nearly 5. The self-guided tour of the battleship, the air displays, the submarine and the discussion with one of the volunteers took up the entire afternoon. I finally dragged myself away and landed in Florida just after the Visitors Centre closed, so headed into Pensacola and booked into a Motel6 there. After unpacking I walked down to McDonalds intending to get a quick bite to eat before going back, doing the regular write-up and photo labelling and getting to sleep early so I could be out bright and early. The best-laid plans …
Firstly I cashed an Amex travellers cheque – this caused questions up the management tree until it was quickly resolved. I got my meal and started to eat it (can’t waste time during the day eating while attractions are open) when Peter (who it transpired was the owner) asked me about the differences between McDonalds here and at home. Then it moved onto Australia and a comparison to here, and then into computers. Before long he had his laptop out and was showing me what he had done (impressive photo work, especially the bread – or was that the buns – photos) and then we got onto some of my photos (comparing alligators and crocodiles). One of his staff was interested in the “Beware of Penguins” sign from Stanley, Tasmania. Then the discussion turned to cameras and he got me going with the description of the camera he was going to buy. With my mouth drooling I had to go before trying to work out some way of convincing him to buy the camera and letting me use it so I could teach him its features (when I returned it in, say, ten years time). I returned to my lonely writer’s garret (well, Room 120 on the ground floor) and did my writing thing, named and rotated photos and finally went to sleep with jealous thoughts of other camera users and owners.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

19 February

After the alarm went off and I put it onto snooze a few times, I finally arose. Toast, packing and then a shower and dressing completed my usual Motel6 routine. Then I was off to the John Lafitte Visitors’ Centre (again a National Park in the middle of town, but near the airport in practice) where I interrogated the ranger on duty about the place of the Cajuns. After some answers, I watched a film on the move from Arcadia (Nova Scotia) eventually down to Louisiana. Then there was a film on a Cajun settlement in the local swamp (the settlement has since disappeared, both in population and physical matter). The museum there had a lot of Cajun material, a display on the escape and eventual freedom of a black slave plus a selection of photos from a range of National Parks.
Then it was off to a set of buildings from Arcadia. The buildings were restored and are now maintained by a group of people from the local Retarded Society. Although there was an entry charge, it took a long time to walk through and see everything. The only disappointment was some of the historic items are what I used in my youth – and still have!
I eventually left there well after 12, when according to my carefully-planned schedule I should have been leaving by 11. My next scheduled stop was the Tabasco sauce factory. Looking over that was interesting, but tasting some of the sauce (less than 1 ml) had me running for a drink of water and then a drink of cold coke. It is definitely something I will NOT try again.
It was then off ot the jungle on Avery Island. This again mucked up my plans as I spent far too long there, marvelling at so much in such a small area. I saw my first alligator (no, I did not feed it by letting it each part of me) and saw why part was nicknamed “bird city”. The home of the family who owns the island looks over “bird city” and it must be a magnificent sight, especially in a morning glow.
I left there far too late to carry out my plan of exploring St Martinville and arrived in St Martinville after 4:30. Most things I wished to see were already shut so I settled for a look around. While I was taking a photo of a tree, a young boy asked if I wanted the family to move their car. I said no, and then ended up talking to them for over fifteen minutes (the mother with three children was waiting for the older girl to finish dancing lessons). They answered questions I had about the area and I answered questions they had about Australia. They were from Parks, just north. I went to head off towards Pensacola but by about 6 I thought I had better stop earlier. As I was busted flat in Baton Rouge, I headed for another Motel6 and got a seniors’ discount (didn’t know they had one, but a German tourist asked for it and got it, so I did too). After unpacking, I tried for wireless Internet (no signal around) and then went to get some tea before heading back and doing my usual computer work before getting ready for bed.

17 February

I was able to sleep in a little today but still woke early (and went back to sleep for a few minutes). Then it was breakfast, packing, showering and dressing, taking the luggage to the car and setting off. I headed off to church, Christ Church Episcopal, in Belknap St. I arrived about 8:20 and called Max (who I had met on the train from Washington to New York) on the mobile, to find him standing only a few metres away from me (but at the front of the church, not the side where I was). We caught up with each other and attended the service. For me it was like a time warp, as the service was identical to a Church of England service in the 1960s, even to the form of words in the service and the hymns. After we chatted over a cup of coffee (I gave in and had one, but had to have milk – and was glad to notice I was not the only one). Then it was time to say goodbye, promise to keep in touch and head off. After a very short trip on surface streets, it was onto I-10 and off to Houston. I stopped at a rest centre along the way and found it excelled expectations – and gave me ideas as to what could be incorporated into them at home. For the drive to Houston, it was pleasant and comfortable but, as is usual now, with me in the right-hand lane and being passed by all except the elderly and infirm cars.
Once at Houston, it was through the spaghetti maze of freeways which seemed to surpass LA by at least an order of magnitude. It was made worse by roadworks (I seem to run into them everywhere) and by being the middle of a long weekend (apparently tomorrow is Presidents’ Day, a National Holiday). I still can’t believe how many drivers wait until the last minute, sitting in the left lane at high speed and then braking at the last minute and crossing up to seven freeway lanes with no regard to any other driver. That was the cause of many bottlenecks within the Houston area. Once outside the city, the road feed up a little, then slowed down again as everyone headed off into recreational areas. I went off to the Space Centre and eventually found it. After parking ($5), I decided that a yearly pass, at only $2 dearer than a one-day entry, would be good value as I was arriving at 2:20 and wouldn’t get to see everything. Once in I had to – you guessed it, QUEUE – for an audio headset. I had a very quick look around, watched the introductory show, looked through the initial display on the space program and then had a look to see what the wait would be for the tram (no, not a tram, rather an open bus with three trailers driven by youngsters who wouldn’t even have a learner’s permit at home – or so it seemed). At this stage, there wasn’t a wait so I headed out. After having my mug shot taken, I had to QUEUE to go through a metal detector.
At this stage I was seeing the funny side of things. All offending objects had to be placed in a mesh basket to the side and each person walked through the metal detector until it was clear. BUT no-one looked at what was placed in the mesh baskets – no attention was paid, even when everything was picked back up again. Talk about, as someone said, high-tech detectors being used to little effect by operators who most likely had little or no training. But enough of that.
We entered the Johnson Space Centre and were shown three separate areas – the historic Mission Control Centre (a lot smaller than portrayed), the training centre (unoccupied as it was Sunday) and the Saturn rocket with the Apollo module on top (it was huge when seen close up). By this stage it was after 6 and we had to wait for the next tram to pick us up. Back at the Houston Space Centre I traded my audio set for my driver’s licence and headed out to find my motel for the night (already booked but elusive to find because of the system of having the same numbers for east and west parts of the street, but also having alternative names for each part of the street). I found it and booked in, then looked for somewhere to have tea. I had seen a Dennys so decided to try that. My waitress (Tammy) was intrigued that I had not been to a Dennys before but had been to the Space Centre. She was also intrigued by my description of typical Australian foods including battered and deep-fried delicacies. I ended up with a menu to take home as a souvenir after a steak and vegetable meal.
Back at the motel I unpacked after lugging (is that why it’s called luggage?) everything up to the second (really first) floor and transferred today’s pictures over and wrote up today’s blog. As there is no Internet here yet (and I couldn’t piggyback onto a free network I found), nothing will be sent until tomorrow. Those of you wilting under information overload (written and pictorial) have had a reprieve for a day.

18 February

Another sleep-in. The Space Centre doesn’t open until 10, so I didn’t bother even thinking about getting up until well after 8. After breakfast, packing and showering and dressing, I was ready to go by 9:30. After checking out and driving down to the Space Centre, then programming in tonight’s accommodation, it was nearly 10 so I strolled over and went straight in. With a quick glance, I sorted out what I wanted to see and went straight in to the introductory film on the space program. It started at 10:15 and there were not many there, in spite of it being a holiday. I did see why very young children should not attend these, as one just either cried, yelled or ran around during the entire film. Not a good experience for anyone and specially for the others, many of whom would have travelled a long time or distance to be there. However I at least got the gist of it.
After a look around the astronaut area, I went into the film about the Space Station. This was on an IMax screen and, with not many there and no really young children, it was enjoyed by all present.
After leaving that, I had a last quick look around and then headed out. I went to Dennys for lunch as they had a special oldies lunch pricing – and I qualified! I didn’t expect the waitress from last night ot be on, but she was and recognised me. We spoke briefly before I left for LaFayette. I did try to ring the Garners, but got a sleepy voice that told me they were no longer there.
Once on the road it was suburban streets for a little until parkway (literally a roadway through a park) and then highway before entering again onto I-10. I got to drive over a spectacular bridge, but thought that stopping in the middle to take a photo was not a good idea.
I-10 buzzed on through Texas until after about 890 miles, Louisiana popped up. Here there was again an spectacular rest stop, with everything needed (okay they didn’t have wireless Internet access, but I could check and send emails). I engaged the staff in discussion and gained a large amount of literature (my “homework” for tonight). As I was leaving, two things happened – I saw a sign about not swimming in the lake (alligators) and was stopped by a young person who noted the California plates on the car and asked me how I liked Louisiana compared to California. When I told him I was a tourist from Australia, he told me he was a commercial pilot and was investigating flying with Qantas. I couldn’t help him as the question was related to flying training types and hours, but wished him the best and drove off. On the other side of the road, traffic was at a standstill because of roadworks.
It was a relatively quick trip along to LaFayette, but there were roadworks on my side of the road, and, as is typical in Australia too, drivers trying to beat the system actually slowed it – by merging at the roadworks and forcing everyone to break, instead of merging before so everyone just drives straight through. After passing two of these artificial hold-ups, I arrived at the motel at 5:30, booked in (no Internet again; that makes for an earlier night tonight but a later one tomorrow night) and found the laundry so decided to make use of the opportunity and do the washing. I have to wash my jacket as I have slept in it for about twelve nights and here I can let it dry in the shower overnight (I can’t run it through the dryer).
The washing went in, while I went into my tracksuit (so I can wash everything and be ready tomorrow with all clean clothes) and then I typed up today’s blog while the washing was on.
I was able to play the good Samaritan as the vending machine was out of washing powder and I gave some to a person who had waited from yesterday to get some.
While the washing was drying, I took the laptop back and hung the jacket in the shower to dry. After that, the washing was folded (you know “iron” is a four-letter word and I don’t like using them) and I started on my homework for the evening. After a detailed read, I decided on my plan of action and then went to bed and to sleep.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

16 February

Today started out weird – I had no reason to get up early and so I slept in until 7:30 – and woke up then, just before the alarm (which some kind person had set on the radio). I didn’t have the mobile as a backup, as for some reason neither the car nor the laptop would charge it through the USB cord (and I know it did, because I used to do it all the time at work). So after toast and vegemite for breakfast I went to ask at the office about the bus into town, but they didn’t open until after 9. SO I drove into town and parked, then found I was only a few streets (read less than five minutes) from the Alamo. I visited the Tourism Centre and got the public transport maps and then walked across the street to the Alamo.
Don’t expect any pictures – not allowed to take any inside. So all I can show you is the outside. It’s size is as I expected, really a eighteenth century church in stone and adobe. The story is as has been told many times, but the place itself holds great significance.
Then, because my parking meter was about to expire, it was to the VIA office to get an all-day ticket, then back to the car and return to the motel.
The weather had been overcast and cool, with a few showers. It got no better as I took the bus back into town. I did get to see different parts of the suburbs of San Antonio on the bus trip. I also sat in the seat marked because of its significance in the struggle for human rights (where a black woman refused to vacate the seat when told to). Back in the city I walked along the RiverView walk (after buying a cigarette adaptor to power the mobile) and decided to take the boat trip, if for no other reason than to get a different view and hear what the history was. It was more interesting to hear how a few people with vision created and protected the area which sets San Antonio aside from other places. It is a concept which other dry cities could to do create an inward focus which would become self-sustaining.
Then I did the whole walk. It is long and covers many different parts of the city. After, I caught the “trolley” to see the city a different way. Being a seasoned public-transport user, I was able to help one couple get off at the correct place and others to tender the correct fare. There was a music festival on in the city for students and so there were many wandering around with tags and badges. There are two USAF bases just outside the city and those I thought were cadets were in fact adult trainees on their first leave (you are getting old when … look like school children). After a good “trolley: look around, I went back to the motel by bus, then went out to do some shopping. In small centres it is easy, but in large cities (and San Antonio is the seventh largest city in the US) it is difficult for the novice to find such things as a little supermarket – so I settled for a superTarget – roughly half the size of the WalMart SuperCenter, but more like a store inside than a Bunnings warehouse (which is more like what WalMart looks like). I had my first sliced meat and vegemite sandwich since leaving home, so feel a lot better. I was also able to get a recharge card on one mobile number (it’s + 1 347 659 8149, and sometimes I put my Optus card back in, but I haven’t yet got the ekit number to work properly (that’s the +44 number on the bottom of the gmails).
I burned some of the photos to DVDs and will send some home soon, and just have to do the photos, post them and this blog and then an early night before arising tomorrow to head off for Houston (and the Johnson Space Centre).

Friday, February 15, 2008

15 February

With an early rising at 5:45, I was down to have breakfast at 6:15. Very few motels offer any sort of breakfast, but those in the Comfort Inn chain have a buffet breakfast in the lobby each morning. Most of the items are too sweet for me and for my taste, but I get toast and put my Vegemite on it. This morning I also had eggs (as patties) and sausage (also as patties) – I find this method of breakfast very different. I certainly could not have waffles and syrup for breakfast, and (hot) tea is not on the menu – and never with milk, even if it can be found (such as on the trains).
I was up and away by 6:45 and went for a quick run down I-10. The Interstates have the advantage of quick travel, but being remote from facilities until an exit. The rest stops are the only exception and I arrived at one about 8. Here I found it more like Australia – quite a few vehicles pulled over and occupants asleep. However they are far more civilised with the vending machines, caretaker, flush toilets and electric hand dryers. I was surprised in a way not to see showers available (but I didn’t look too closely). The weather was very cool – not much above freezing.
I saw a sign indicating a scenic side loop to a Fort Lancaster. As I am a tourist and want to find things as well as see what I already know of, I decided to detour. After a rather long and uninteresting side drive, and beside a bridge construction of a few hundred metres long on a rather quite road, I found Fort Lancaster. Going in (entrance fee $2, a pleasant surprise after a few others), I met one of the guides there (there are three part-timers). He is a part-time rancher as well, and holds degrees in history and civilisations. After a comparison of indigenous populations in the US and Australia, and a side discussion on camels, we got onto the fort. I was able to glean quite a bit about it, so the walk out in the ruins was complementary to what I had been told. I saw the displays, then discussed farming and comparisons of farming on similar areas in the US and Australia. He was able to see the joke in the story of the twins who won Tattslotto: the one in town retired, bought a Rolls, travelled the world and bought a house in Toorak; the one on the land decided he could afford to farm another five years! The reserve there had over a hundred thousand visitors a year before the Interstate came in – and more of that later – and has very few now, but numbers are building back up slowly.
He was able to give me some points on how to travel to see the Rio Grande on my way to San Antonio. I headed off and down through Dryden – now effectively a ghost town. His town, Sanderson, had suffered a real decline in population due to floods killing some and the railway closing down its depot. It is now starting to grow back.
I called in at Langtry – initially at the store on the highway, which was being run by the father while the son was on holidays. I got postcards there and a reminder by other customers there to visit Florida! Then it was into the real town (population 15) and the Judge Roy Bean Museum. The Museum was free, had a huge amount of information and very informative and helpful staff, and had Judge Roy Bean memorabilia on display. It also had free wireless Internet access – so I couldn’t resist and sent out an email! In line with many other times, I was able to help some others who were going to visit Carlsbad Caverns and they were able to help me with routes along the river. Being a small town I could find the post office (closed) and the letter receiver (next to the post office), so I sent a postcard to Cori, a colleague at Niddrie from Texas, and to my former class (I will have to check to see when it gets there). I got a map and the information on it tallied exactly with that from the guide at Fort Lancaster, so I set off to see the Pecos River (impressive), its junction with the Rio Grande (not as grand as I thought, but there is a drought here too) and then the Amistad Dam. This is on the Rio Grande and is a co-operative venture between the US and Mexico. I drove out to the US border point and then walked to the actual border – on the dam. I stood with one foot in Mexico and one in the US.
Then I went into Del Rio and filled the car – I was able to use my card okay and actually filled the tank (for once!). I also repaired the fuel filler cover (I had to do the footwell trim before – bad press for Alamo, who obviously don’t check the cars) and then went to WalMart SuperCentre to do some shopping. I forgot to get DVDs, which I need as I’m running out of room on the laptop hard drive. It was big, but not as huge as I had been led to believe.
I headed out and then got pulled up at another Border Patrol checkpoint. Their K9 operative gave a bored yawn as I pulled up, so the officer told me to go on. Before I got to San Antonio, it became dark so I had to slow to 65 mph (the night-time speed limit in Texas). In San Antonio, road works were on so I couldn’t follow the SatNav directions, but eventually found the motel anyway. This one, the second-cheapest I have had, has a complete kitchen, including stove, microwave, toaster and fridge as well as cutlery, crockery and pans.
I unpacked, did the photos, wrote this blog and am now ready to collapse as I’ve been on the road for over twelve and half hours today – it showed, as after getting the motel cards, I walked to the wrong side of the car – happens when I go on auto pilot.
I’m in San Antonio, ready to see the Alamo tomorrow, do the River Walk and look around. But now, to sleep.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

14 February

Today it was awake, up and ready to go by 7:20. I had my toast with vegemite but forgot and let it go really brown and off went the smoke alarm. Had to open the door and fan the alarm to remove the smoke.
I drove out to Carlsbad Caverns – from White City (barely a town) it is nearly 7 miles (11.2 km) at less than 40 miles an hour (65 km/hr) for most of the way. I arrived at the Visitors’ Centre (or rather the mishmash of portable accommodation serving as it during remodelling). The centre opened not long after I arrived so I paid for the tour (but not the entrance, as that’s in the National Parks pass) and the audio set. I debated the worth of it, but as I’m most likely never going to be there again, I thought, “What the heck?”
There was a little time to wait so I was chatting with a fellow now from San José but originally from New Hampshire. We compared cave systems and also discussed what I could visit in New Hampshire and when. If the weather remains too cold, I could cross the border at Toronto (if I can then) and spend a little time there between Toronto and Montreal at the end of March.
I picked up the audio tour guide (an audio stick with programmed material at certain waypoints) and set off not long after the cave opened. Although it is suggested it could take up to an hour and fifteen minutes to walk down, I did it in forty-five minutes, even pausing to take photos and listen. It is a long walk in, and the suggestion as to consider the alternative if you are unfit is well advised.
At the bottom there is (wait for it) a cafeteria, seating for hundreds, toilets which are quite large (in number, not the individual toilet bowls in size, although I have noticed US toilets are considerably larger than Australian ones – I sit in danger of falling in) and souvenir shops! The alternative for entry is an elevator going down the over 200 metres in just over a minute (and there are four of them!).
I was on the 10 a.m. tour of the King’s Palace so had a quick snack before being corralled (yes, we were all placed in a roped and chained-off area, separate from others) and then, after more warnings of what not to do, we were off. That tour was excellent value, though if I had a lot more time, there are others I would do as well. The entrance walk, together with the Big Cave, which I did after lunch, are self-guided tours. Although rangers are around, I really feel the temptation to do the wrong thing is very strong and they would be better with rangers taking ever tour group. The logistics of doing that with over three million visitors may be beyond their capabilities.
After seeing all and taking a lot of photos (and some may be out of focus either because there was insufficient light for the camera to focus itself or I forgot and left the manual focus on for the wrong distance), I set off in the direction of San Antonio. The time, and time zone changes, meant I wouldn’t have got to San Antonio until after 11, so I decided to settle for a closer destination. After stopping in Pecos and looking at the Visitor’s Centre there (and being convinced to see the museum, which I also did, after being given a sheriff’s badge – how cheap am I that a badge will buy me?) and spending nearly an hour at the museum, I landed it Fort Stockton for the night. Motel6 was booked out so I settled for Super8Motel down the road (actually a Comfort Inn under another name, so I get breakfast tomorrow – out with the vegemite again and onto the table), booked in (not as cheap, but at least I can do everything) and unpacked.
After checking emails and replying to them, I wrote this blog (and posted it) and then still have to do the photos, post them, have some tea, relax and be asleep for a 6 a.m. start (breakfast) and a 6:30 departure to get me to the Alamo in the early afternoon (out with all those Davy Crockett hats!).

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

13 February

Awake at 6 and then up not too long after. By the time I got ready, took everything down to the car and checked out, it was about 6:45. I refuelled the car (having to prepay on the credit card; this would have to be the most inefficient way of using the pumps as it requires two trips to the cashier and then having to estimate how much fuel you can put in, or not filling the tank – so I can see why people have no real idea of their fuel consumption and why they run out of petrol) and then set off on the Interstate (I-10 east). There was a lot of traffic, especially heavy vehicles. This thinned out as I got further away from Tucson.
As an aside, most of the semis only have two rear axles. Seeing the GVW on one was 80 000 lb, I worked out this was only 37 tonnes, far less than our normal 42.5 tonne. Perhaps this is why.
Again most vehicles were travelling over the speed limit. When I had to go out to pass the few vehicles travelling slower, I ended up with a queue behind because I don’t want the inconvenience and expense of a speeding ticket here. There were a few roadworks, so I wasn’t able to keep up the maximum speed, which went as high as 75 mph (120 km/hr). When I stopped at a picnic area, I took some photos so I could compare them back home. I had already stopped at an Arizona Rest Area so knew how palatial they could be. But after I passed the New Mexico border, I stopped at their rest area and it beat Arizona – adobe buildings, free tourist information, free coffee, free Internet and cheap vending machines. I loaded up with information (a mistake, as it will cost me to post it all home) and set off.
Because of the shape of the states, I quickly entered into Texas. Here the rest area was trying to one-up New Mexico – bigger, more info, much more palatial and a lot more display outside. All have areas for pets.
I pushed on to El Paso but saw no young Mexican maid – in fact the petrol pump I filled up at took my card and DIDN’T require a ZIP code, so I could fill the car without seeing anyone. Things like that may make for efficiency but they reduce the human contact needed for social interaction. The short range of the car was exemplified by the need to stop about every five hours to fill (or every four hours to make sure you didn’t run out of petrol, easy to do on the Interstates where every facility is off to the side).
Then I went through suburbia for a while as I went off onto a state highway to go to Carlsbad. I thought the speed limit would be lower, but it went back up to 75 soon. I stopped to take photos because the scenery was interesting. The best shots came near the Guadalupe National Park. I pulled in there to have a look and also to get a National Parks pass for the whole time I am travelling in the US. For $80, I should get my money back soon, but also it reduces my waiting time at entry to a lot of places (no queues!). I got the pass, and a book on all the parks, saw a slideshow on the park and found out that Yellowstone will probably be snowbound when I arrive (still get in, but not by car). I also picked up a few hints on places to see in Florida.
I called in at the turnoff to Carlsbad Caverns and found out that I should be there by 8 to get onto the tour and also to allow myself enough time to get down to take the guided tour while doing the self-guided one(s) myself. I will have saved $6 by then on the National Parks entry.
It was a relatively quick drive into Carlsbad and I booked into the motel. The cheapest so far (less than US$45 for the night, including tax and Internet) and it has a microwave and fridge. Cans are in to cool for tomorrow and the toaster is out for vegemite on toast tomorrow for breakfast. I posted the photos from Monday and the blogs. Then downtown for tea (tried Wendy’s tonight) and I spoke to a Corporal from the Carlsbad Sheriffs’ Office about the number of cars speeding. He said that was what kept him busy. I did a little shopping on the way back, took what I needed up to the room (first floor, not ground) and did the photos from today and posted them, then did this blog and will try ot get to sleep earlier and be up to leave by about 7:20 (to be at the caverns by 8).
That’s what’s planned, but who knows?

12 February

I was able to sleep in a little longer today as my aim was to do the Storage and Regenerative Facility at Davis Monthan AFB. SO I dragged myself out of sleep and went to check my email, only to find the server was working and I needed to get a car to get access. On my way out, the bad news was they didn’t have any cards.
I arrived at the Pima Museum in time to make sure I was on the first bus of the day out to tour. We loaded up (after queuing, of course) and I ended up sitting with an ex-USAF pilot. He had flown many of the types we were going to see, so we swapped tales on the way out. It took over an hour of slow cruising to go through some of the planes (many we only saw in the distance) and the only thing I could fault was that the bus only went one way (if it cruised slowly back out on its original path, everyone on either side of the bus would be able to see everything). I learned a lot about the facility, but I won’t bore everyone with it all at the moment (plus, it would take ages to type and I’m nearly falling asleep already). When we returned to the museum, I went through the Space Center and learned quite a lot there – including that if countries had co-operated, we would have been in space long before.
Time marched on and so did I. I had seen the signs to Colossal Cave so decided that a change of visit was in order. I drove out there and went over the cave with the guide and ten others. That was a small group compared to tour groups in Australia, where about twenty is the minimum I’ve toured caves with. It is a dry cave, so its appearance was very different to those I had already seen. Unlike the caves near Katherine (NT), it is a cool and dry cave, so it was pleasant inside. On the drive back I photographed some traffic signs (Arizona drivers need to be reminded what the unbroken line is for).
Back at the motel there were still no cards to get Internet access, so I went to another Motel6 and got some. Then I went to a Mall (hard to find as it was only single story, unlike most of ours) and got a road map of the USA as I need to be able to orient how and where I am travelling, as the SatNav does not really let me create a mind map of where I am and where I am going. It will be posted back when I leave the US.
Back at the motel after getting some tea on the way back I found the card DIDN’T give me access. That created problems which the technical staff of the Internet provider couldn’t solve. I had to book for tomorrow night by phone and then couldn’t post my blog or the photos or check emails. I hope all will be well at Carlsbad tomorrow evening (about 420 miles of travel and I hope to begin early).
My only real gripe at the moment is the tank in the Pontiac is too small given its economy and I can only get about four hundred miles before I need to refuel. This is about the same range as my Barina and only two thirds of the Commodore. I will see if I can cram more into the tank when I refuel in Tucson before I leave in the morning.
Now I am trying to get an early night and leave early in the morning.

11 February

Today I rose a little later, prepared myself and headed out to Benson. It was going to be quite a day, meeting Peggy and her husband, then being shown around the local area by locals.
I arrived at their place just before 9. The first order of business was to be shown around the property and given the names of the various natural features and to see the prints of the animals which enter the land. The second was to see Carl’s barn (men and their sheds seems to be a common feature around the world – they are just given different names! Then there was the house, which was very spacious and has wonderful outlooks over plains and ranges – the view over the Interstate reminded me very much of the view in “Cars” of the Interstate when Sally reminisces what it was like before. A quick chat and some Fosters Lager (tasted more like the genuine thing than the offering at the Outback Steakhouse) and we were off. Through Benson, a town of about 4000 but with its own WalMart (open 24 hours) and the commentary kept running as we then went down to Tombstone. We went through Boot Hill (smaller than I imagined, but of course the population of everywhere was smaller then) and then into Tombstone itself. Many of the locals dress and act the part, a necessary purpose to keep many small towns with history alive. We looked through many establishments and ended up having lunch in one. Then it was off to Bisbee, where the copper mine was the reason for the town, but it continued to survive after, as a boutique place for artists of many types. The Apache Powder company is there, which was of no significance until I saw its name on cases the next day at the Pima Space Centre.
We walked through parts of Bisbee and drove through the rest. Many original buildings are there, some surviving and some renovated or rebuilt. Antiques and other crafts fill many shops. We returned to Benson via Fort Huachuca and sat on the decking as the sun set, sinking another Fosters as well as many myths about each other’s countries. We went into Benson to the Horseshoe Café, a very old establishment, for the evening meal. After, back at their place, I went through some photos of Australia with Peggy and Carl before a very enjoyable day ended. It will be a long time before we meet in person again, but I hope it will happen.
On the way back to the motel I called in at WalMart and bought a cheap toaster, so I can have toast with Vegemite (cheap toaster – try $3!) and was back at the motel too late and too tired to write my blog or process and post my photos. In retrospect, that was a bad move. However, sleep had to happen.

Sunday, February 10, 2008

10 February

After I had set the alarm for 6 to be up bright and early, I didn’t end up getting up until after 6:30. Consequently I resolved to get a little sleep-in at some stage. I had not factored in an hour to process photos to upload them and an hour to write a blog, then half an hour to process emails which arrive from a few people.
I left by 7:20 and was quickly on the Interstate, I-8. The road changed from three lanes each way to two and the surface improved, but otherwise it was just a road. One thing I have found is that I am sitting on the speed limit and in the right lane, and am the only one. However, with the appearance of a few Arizona Highway Patrol cars, everyone’s speed dropped back (but then went up after; as Ogden Nash said: “Nothing improves my driving, to quite the same extent, as a police car that’s just coming, or a police car that’s just went.”). There was another border patrol check, but a quick sniff of the car by a K9 officer and I was on my way. The Mexican border is just south of the route I’m on. There were a few more irrigated fields as I travelled on.
I stopped at a rest area – what a surprise! Toilets, vending machines, information boards, covered tables and a caretaker. What we call a rest area here is a picnic spot. I stopped at one of those too. There is pictorial evidence (but I may have labelled the picnic spot as the last of the rest area, but I’ll fix that up after the photos shrink (while I’m writing this).
I tried listening to the local radio, but because of the terrain and the distances I’m doing, the stations fade in and out too quickly for me, so I put the iPod on. As I neared Tucson, two things happened. One, there is a gem festival on in town – that’s why I had trouble finding cheap accommodation. Two, the car told me he was low on fuel. Enough to get me to where I was going, but refuelling was a priority after.
The speed limits varied between 55 and 70 miles per hour, about 90 to 115 kilometres per hour. I can switch the car’s display to metric, but it makes setting the speeds difficult. Speeds by cars passing me varied up to about 90 miles per hour. I can’t afford to get a ticket so I will sit on the limit even if I do get funny looks.
I arrived at the air museum and parked. Once in, Murphy’s law came in and the tours of the “boneyard”, where aircraft are mothballed but can be recalled to active service relatively quickly, only occurs on weekdays. I got a two-day entry and booked the tour for me on Tuesday. I will need my passport then. (Monday is reserved for Peggy and Carl in Benson) Then off I went, first on the tram (open bus really) tour to orient myself and then on foot after. Just the first hangar took over an hour, so after some lunch I went around the rest (but only a fleeting look at everything, so a return visit is warranted). I met a few ex-USAF members and chatted with them, an also met a family of Texan mother, Australian-English father and two girls. We talked about planes, Australia (they want to take the girls there, but only once they can appreciate it) and American politics. An interesting place is the US.
I couldn’t resist getting a few souvenirs (the appeal to help pay for all this extra stuff will be launched soon – all donations gratefully received, but not tax deductible) and then was off to the motel. I had booked one night but changed it to three. Tonight, to sleep; tomorrow to rest after Peggy and Carl tire me out and Tuesday to refresh myself after the second day in the air museum and before I head off to Carlsbad Caverns (I still have to find where I can stay there, but I don’t think it will be a problem).
Now the priority is to post this, rotate the shrunk photos and post them and then to sleep. I have to ring to see what time to visit in the morning.

9 February

Today it was up and soon out – and I had to wipe the windows clean on the car (5ZLE487, in case I wrote it incorrectly last time). Checkout was quick and painless, as it has been on nearly every occasion and I was soon off to Coronado Beach. The elevated road getting there was spectacular, but I couldn’t suddenly stop and take photos. I would have been going to quickly for good photos anyway. The SatNav is good at getting me to places, but because I have put it to imperial units, my judgement is not as good as metric. I parked, then walked along the walkway at the beach. This proved to be a health hazard with so many organised groups jogging along the pathway too. I spoke to some others walking and they found the same problem. The hotel is spectacular by itself, but it was a place where Marilyn Monroe stayed very often. There are beach houses as well as the actual hotel itself. As I returned to the car, I noticed Rotarians cleaning up the beach. Talking to one, they have over 220 members in the Coronado club, but less than 100 active. I assured him his club and organization was not alone with that.
Then it was off to the zoo. I was able to park fairly close, given it was 8:45 and the zoo didn’t open until 9 (when I left, the almost empty parking lot was full – of cruising cars looking for empty bays, as well as parked cars and there was a security officer in an elevated tower keeping an eye on the cars). There were a number of lines, but none moving. We were given a lot of information, but no-one could quite work out what it meant. As it turned out, if you had already bought tickets (and there are a variety available) you formed a queue at the turnstiles (where I spoke to one couple, the husband wanted to visit Australia but hadn’t made it, and a nanny from Riverview). Once through I went on the bus ride – through another queue. This gave a very good overview of the zoo layout and even went through areas not open for public view. Once off the bus, I went to the chairlift to see a different view and also to see the polar bears – and in another queue! This time I was chatting with a woman from South Africa. She and her husband had moved to the US about twelve years ago and both their girls were born here. The children had South African accents until they went to school – then they got the American accents! The chair lift had good aerial views of the zoo, out to sea and some good views over the city.
One off the chairlift I went along to see different animals and then to the polar bears. I saw one playing there (but I wouldn’t like to be the toy, seeing the size of him) and then went further along and saw the pandas. There were some good views of both the young female and the mother and her young cub – but the little one was asleep!
After some lunch I went through the reptiles, the children’s zoo (and saw some wombats, not in as good condition as the ones I see by the roadside) and finished off by seeing the tortoises. By the time I left, the car park was full and many people were cruising to find spots. The whole area was under observation by a guard in an elevated tower – no problem if you were getting into your own car, but obvious if you were breaking in.
Then it was off to Balboa Park. To do this area justice would have required more time and funds than I had spare. There was also a Vietnamese Tet festival on there, so parking places were hard to find. But I found one (by sitting in a row and waiting until someone went out). I went to the Air and Space museum and was a little disappointed that it was $15 to get in (the Smithsonians rasied the bar on quality and lowered it on prices), even though I was asked if I was a “senior”. On looking around, it was well worth the money as that was what I was interested in.
After quite a time there, I was starting to get footsore. It was not from walking, but from standing watching either animals or exhibits. So, earlier than I expected, I drove out, filled up with fuel (an exercise in itself as it was self-serve, but pay with a credit card at the pump and verify by putting in the five digit zip code of the billing address – so I had to leave my card and licence at the desk while I topped up the tank. Also, the whole nozzle was covered and made a seal with the tank so you couldn’t see what was happening at the pump – and the cut-off was sharp!) and then left San Diego. Before I left the city I was in desert and rocky hills – and the suburbs of San Diego filled up the valleys. After, the view became very like the Sierras and the Rockies. I couldn’t take photos driving, but I did from a scenic viewpoint. Once through the mountains (elevation over 4000 feet) the scenery became desert, as in Australia. However there were irrigated areas along the way. There was one border checkpoint. I prepared to get all my documentation out, but as I didn’t look Mexican, I was waved through. I arrived at Yuma just before dark, found the motel without any problems and booked in. I forgot to ask for room 310 so I could say I had been “on the 3 10 at Yuma”, but when I mentioned it on leaving, the receptionist didn’t know what I was talking about!
I was unable to get Internet access, so I did the photos but couldn’t upload them. I had to book the next motel by telephone, and the operator was fascinated by my accent and kept asking me questions about Australia. I tried to refill my number I was using here on the mobile, but they only take American-issued credit cards over the telephone, so I had to put my own SIM back in – and now I can’t dial Australia! I started to write up my blog but became too tired and went to sleep.

Friday, February 8, 2008

8 February

Awake at 6 – too many days of regimented activity to wake late unless I know someone else is doing the worrying. Showered, dressed and had a breakfast with Vegemite toast – the best experience while sitting down! Okay, well perhaps not THE best, but pretty good at this time.
I did some tidying up of my packed materials and reoganisation, then left about 9:40. After settling the account I got a cab to Union Station. After a few photos of a now-familiar location, I walked through to where the LAX-Union Station bus stops. At $4, it’s the cheapest and quickest way to get into LA from the airport. Naturally I arrived just as it left and had to wait for the 10:30. I ended up chatting to two young Dutch backpackers, just finishing three and a half months away (Thailand, Australia, New Zealand, Fiji and lastly the USA before they went home). They were enquiring about rental cars and had received wildly varying quotes (I found out later this was because they were 22 and 24; the rates quoted are usually only for 25 and over). At the airport we all found out where to go, but they had to do their enquiries by telephone as none of the booths were manned. I caught the bus to the Alamo Rental lot and did the paperwork – I have never tried to be sold so many extras as this time! Eventually it was finished and I initialled and signed (I note I was never asked to read what I signed, so if there’s a problem, that’s my defence). I went over to get my compact and – there weren’t any! There were three other families in the same position and we were all given the option of taking the next size up (or even two sizes up in the case of one group). I could either wait or take the next available car, which was a Pontiac Grand Prix, white, 5ZLE487. The number is not as easy to remember as my own. The operators of Bayswater Hire Cars in Perth could teach Alamo a few lessons in customer relations and car disposition.
In the car and with the keys, the next thing was to move the seat so I could reach the pedals – no-one to explain anything, no owner’s manual visible in the glove box, no 1-2-3 guide to running it. After a while I found how to move the seat forward and that the lights were controlled in the same way as in the Holden Commodore (but on a very busy stalk). Then it was over to the gate (after I had plugged the GPS in and turned it on and asked it to go to San Diego), sign the car out and head off. The first bit was easy – just follow the traffic. Once I was on the freeway heading south, it became interesting. I found how to set the cruise control, but boy – those who told me LA and Californian drivers were careful and disciplined never drove on these roads. 55 for trucks was 65. 65 for cars was anything up to 80. Only one person I saw stuck anywhere near the speed limits – me, as the traffic split around me as I made sure I wasn’t coerced into leaving through an off-ramp I didn’t want. After an hour I was out of LA (remember this was at 65 miles per hour – about 105 kilometres per hour) and the traffic thinned slightly. I saw a CHP car with radar out – why I don’t know as when a truck went by at 70 he totally ignored it. After an hour and a half, I went off to a viewpoint (scenic lookout). Here I started taking photos, as unlike the train, I couldn’t take them while moving in the car. Then back on the road down to San Diego – to see roadworks on the other side and a lineup of six lanes, miles long, going nowhere.
By now I had worked out how to use the radio and the airconditioning. I can’t see an mp3 socket, so it looks like it will be the old iPod transmitting songs for me. The Renault will have an mp3 socket. At San Diego I pulled into a signposted visitors’ centre. Working out how to lock the car was easy, but unlocking it so I could get out was harder. I now know you have to: stop, put the car into Park, turn off the ignition and pull the key out. Any other order and you’re trapped inside. It just reinforces that in this land of the free, you have to do as you are told.
At the visitors’ centre I picked up information. The first was that the man working there was a Vietnam Vet. The second was that he was very sympathetic to serving troops, as the young man before me was a Marine on two days’ leave before duty in Iraq – and when he wanted two soft drinks, he was given them free. The young man looked more like he should have been out surfing instead of fighting in a war. Then I got given the lowdown on how to spend my one and a half days in San Diego – this afternoon at old San Diego and tomorrow at the zoo and Balboa Park (reinforcing other guidance). I got a ticket for the zoo tomorrow, a coke (at $1.25 for nearly 600 ml. the cheapest yet!) and headed off. Five minutes later I was walking around old San Diego – a themed and historical park rather like Sovereign Hill on a much smaller scale. The uniqueness to me was the Spanish, then the American history. I engaged the woman at La Casa de Estudillo in conversation about how many servants worked there (two), why so few (this was the town house of the governor, not his principal residence), why so many bedrooms (friends would stay there while in the area) and the gardens (mainly put in when the place was used as a commercial building – before that the garden was practical, with vegetables, herbs and other plants). After then hearing about her problems with mice, rats and gophers (I haven’t seen them yet), I went around more of the old town. At the blacksmith’s shop, I was taken by the suggestions of Cathy and Steve for more interactive children’s activities (she runs my little pony rides, on the Internet). Here I got another suggestion – see the Hotel del Coronado, where Marilyn Monroe used to stay, and there is a good beach. I’ll see that tomorrow morning early, before traffic and with the sun behind me.
After seeing the rest of the town, I headed off to where I had booked a motel for the night (on the Internet, certain motel rates are 10% off normal rates) and found myself in peak hour traffic. I made it and booked in, but then the key wouldn’t work (to fix a lock now you need a locksmith and an electronics technician) so I had to be given another room.
I unpacked, then went to Target (one of their smaller stores, I was told, but it didn’t look that way to me) to get some supplies which I could now carry in the car. Coke was $7 for 24 cans (plus the ubiquitous – or should that be iniquitous? – tax as well as a recycle tax of 60 cents which is received back when the cans are cashed in (except by the time I consume them, I’ll be in every other state – good way to make money, and no, Fran, I am NOT carting them back to South Australia). I got most of what I wanted (food prices that I have seen are exactly comparable with Australia, except we have tax included) and even found, wait for it – Australian liquorice in the exact same packaging as at home!
I had an evening meal at Jack-in-the-box (all the cholesterol and fat you could wish in the one convenient meal – not to my taste) and then drove back to the motel. At $50 the night including tax and Internet access, it meets my budget. Its heater is efficient, the bed is okay and it has plenty of power outlets. I reorganised my packing as I can now carry some things in the boot of the car, set out the electrical things to go in the car (three-way adaptor, power for SatNav and iPod and charger for mobile, etc), wrote up my blog and did the photos. Now to bed and to sleep (which is what “sinking into the arms of Morpheus” means, for those who were wondering). Morpheus is not the Peruvian girl I met.

Thursday, February 7, 2008

7 February

I woke well before the alarm at 6:15. After checking emails (a few send a note but most don’t) I was up and finished packing (my backpack), then got ready for the day. My bags were loaded onto the shuttle while I settled my account, and then it was off to the BART station. A couple were taking the train to San Francisco Airport to fly home to Newark NJ. AS I already had my ticket from yesterday, I went straight up to the platform. Within five minutes I was on a train, then off in ten at Lake Merritt. A quick glance around and I was off down Oak and along 2nd and within fifteen minutes I had walked to the AMTRAK terminal. Although it looks a long way with a number of blocks to cross, the blocks are fairly small and it wasn’t really far.
At the station I ensured I was at the right place, at the right time and that the train was on time. All was correct and I waited. A lady form Milan turned up to travel on the same train (she had been working for the UN), so we waited together. The train turned up a few minutes early, we all got on (four of us from Oakland) and went up. There were no power outlets in the coach car, but there were in the lounge car. I settled in (on the right-hand side of the carriage so I can see the coastal sights) and started to write up today’s activities.
Yesterday was in one way an eye-opener and also sad. I saw a number of bag people, with all their belongings gathered into a few suitcases or bundles, with these in a shopping trolley or similar and they themselves huddled at the base of their world. I had seen homeless aid being given out in New York and Chicago and people collecting for the homeless, and yesterday I was actually solicited for aid. I gave something, though a small badge and clipboard doesn’t make anything very official. A truck, or photo badges, would have made me feel like my funds were actually going where they should. I had a feeling of sadness, not so much for the people as in LA it was at least warm and there were doorways to shelter in, but that in a land that should be the richest in the world that people can be worse off than in a third-world country. One measure of a country is how well it treats its poor and sick, and on both measures, from what I have seen, there are problems. Even in New Orleans, giving money is not a solution, but institutionalising care, with all its problems, may be a way out though with less dignity that some people want.
Heading out of Oakland it was typical railway view, as in anywhere in the world. Industrial, yards, rubbish strewn and domestic back yards. Then it was into farmlands with some large industrial areas. We arrived in San José, so now I do know the way to San José – just take Amtrak south from san Francisco! From there we followed the Monterey Road (I had the SatNav out). These coach cars don’t have power outlets, so the ones in the lounge car are monopolised by those with computers or mobile phones to charge.
We have turned inland and there are ranges of hills to each side. The ones on the west remind me of the Flinders Ranges – they are smooth, worn down with the ravages of time. Those on the west look more rugged, but it may simply be they are treed while the others are grassed. Cultivation is a mixture of vines and hothouses, with bits of industry as we go through towns such as Coyote, San Martin and Gilroy.
Sitting in the observation car and taking some photos, I met a lady from Virginia who had travelled extensively and whose husband had done computer work for the Hastings Cold Rolling steel mill near Melbourne. She suggested some places to see along the way as well. The only problem is going to be that these suggestions are playing havoc with my timetable. I also met a fellow from Santa Barbara who suggested some other places to see in San Francisco (Young Museum in Golden Gate Park). While taking some photos I met another fellow who seemed very intent in his phone calls but otherwise very affable. He introduced himself and we had a conversation about train travel. It was then time for lunch and a selection from the AMTRAK limited and quite unhealthy menu. I ate that will observing the scenery. After a while I went back to my seat and started dozing – perhaps the constancy of travelling had got to me, but more likely it was the combination of a meal, warm sun and pleasant surroundings. After an hour or so we stopped and the lady from Virginia got off and was met by her son and grandchildren. The children were shy of meeting a stranger, even if he did have a funny accent.
Back on the train we were coming up towards the coast and I resumed conversation with the gent from Santa Barbara (who was a software engineer). He was able to describe the climate and geography of the area and we talked about that, America and then Australia (which I was able to show him on a map, in between rushing to take coastline photos. This had to stop as the light started to fade. In a short while we had reached Santa Barbara and he got off and I had some tea (both meal and liquid – “hot tea” in the local parlance). After that I sat in my seat to watch the scenery and packed things up. I called where I was staying tonight so they would know I was late (although it is already confirmed and paid for, so whatever happens they don’t lose). Now, about twenty-five minutes out of LA at Van Nuys, there are only Kenny, the lady from Milan and myself out of those I have engaged with. During the afternoon I rang Fran (she was just about to head out to work) and Jennifer (who wasn’t in, so I left a message). Now as my train travel is about to end in the same city I started in nineteen days earlier, I have mixed feelings. I have learned all the ways to survive in coach class, how to relax in sleeper, how to mix with many different people and how to navigate different public transport systems. I will miss having so many people around me, but I will regain the freedom of movement in a car. I will be able to shop as and when I want and carry more things with me, and also choose from a wider range of accommodation. How this will actually turn out is only something I will be able to muse on retrospectively in about forty-seven days when I board the Canadian on 24 March (I think).
For now I’m looking forward to catching a cab to my hotel tonight and going to sleep. I will upload this blog, but I’m not sure about the photos (because there were no power outlets in the carriages, the laptop charge is down because of writing and powering the SatNav during the day).
By the way, I enjoy hearing from anyone who emails me. It reminds me that life is going on for others.
Arrived LA Union Station at 8:40. In a cab by 8:55 and into Comfort Inn LA City Center before 9:10. Walked around to get a drink and every sign is Spanish or Asian. Just going to do my pictures if I can and then to sleep.