After a very settled night I woke at 0400 to the rapping of fingers on the cabin door. I thought this peculiar as we were not due in to Vladisvostok until 0648 and I had already set the alarm for just after 0500. I rose to see what was happening and found our provodnitsa motioning that Sharon’s stop was coming up at Ussuriysk and she should get ready to leave the train. Sharon had bought her ticket over the Internet and it was in two sections, one from Moscow to Ussuriysk and one from Ussuriysk to Vladivostok. When our provodnitsa collected the tickets, she only wanted one, so when the second surfaced, it was a surprise. For a time it looked as though there may have been problems, but eventually they were sorted out and Sharon was told she could go back to sleep and stay on until Vladivostok. That, of course, broke the magic of the rest and neither of us could get back to sleep.
I got up about forty minutes before we were due in to find … toilets locked, so no wash this morning!
At 0648 local time, or 2348 Moscow time, the train stopped at the platform – on time after seven and a half days. Everyone was packed and ready to go so we were all out, I said goodbye to our provodnitsas and Sharon and started on down the platform. The hotel is only a block away, so I thought it wouldn’t be much effort to reach there, but … along pops a driver with my name – now this is service! He even carried my suitcase up the steps and to his car, a Subaru Liberty. The luggage went in the back, I went to the right side, only to be told to go to the left. Apparently (and I confirmed this later) about ninety per cent of the cars in Vladivostok are right-hand-drives. They are imported second-hand from Japan and then used here.
Along we went to the hotel. It wasn’t far, but again (this seems common) it was about three times as long by car as it was by foot. Because of the one-way streets, it was around and around until we were finally out the front. Now came the interesting news. My flight leaves at 0825 tomorrow morning so I will be picked up from the hotel at 0530 to get to the airport by 0630. That’s not too bad, but breakfast in the hotel starts at 0700. I though a reasonable suggestion was to have breakfast today and not tomorrow, but the desk staff did not agree. I ended up leaving my luggage at the luggage office and then going for a walk. I should note that the Dawn Princess is in harbour.
At this stage, just after 0700, it was still dark outside but the streets were lively with people going to work. I went looking for a cheap food place that was open and ended up finding a 24 hour supermarket, so got a roll and a drink. Then I walked back along one of the main streets and saw the famous square, but couldn’t find anything else I was looking for. I did notice that my driver’s information was correct. There were very few left-hand-drive cars – even the police and other government workers had right-hand-drives, and a few buses were right-hand-drive too.
As the Funicular Railway was supposed to start at 0700, I walked up to it. How bad can my luck be – it’s out of action, presumably because of a construction site at its upper or northern terminus? As the view promised to be good, I walked up. Now I can see why it is so popular. It’s quite a hike up and it connects parts of the tertiary college here – there were a lot of students doing the trek. The view was worthwhile, as you will see. The only problem is the high humidity may have caused the images to be a little fuzzy. Here I heard an Australian accent to find it was a couple from the Gold Coast who were on the Dawn Princess. After that I walked back down, found a burger joint and went in. There weren’t even photographs to help me out. A security guard saw my bewildered look and got a waitress to give me a menu in English. I made my order, got it (no fries or chips here – just ask for potato) and sat down to eat. The temperature inside here was more bearable than other places – everywhere in Russia (but also other northern hemisphere places), interior temperatures are more akin to firing a furnace than keeping humans comfortable. Even in the train, 30°C is considered normal by the locals. After cooling down and having some sustenance, I went to the C-56 submarine (C in Russian is pronounced S), had a look over that and then went to the ferry terminal to do a ride to Russky Island and see the harbour. I had a wait, so could rest my feet (again, tool long without any real exercise) and observe human nature. Kids especially are the same all over the world, whether they are one or seventeen.
I saw the ferry before leave, so went to the next one that was loading, but no-one seemed to have the same ticket as me. I asked a policeman going on the ferry (so no chance of a high-speed ride here, folks) and he assured me it was the correct one. Just before it went out, along came everyone else with the same tickets. The ride was good except – it was overcast, starting to rain, and at some points there was lightning. So, few photos. When I finished up back at the terminal (25py6 each way, after striking up a conversation with another policeman on his way back) I walked back to the hotel (and got spoken to by an Russian ex-sea captain, who had NEVER docked in Australia, but wants to visit now), checked in (had to leave my passport and train ticket), did some washing and then had a long shower. This is where I ran into an inconsistency on the part of Russians. On the train, strangers, male and female, are thrust together into a locked compartment for periods of up to a week. In the hotel, a babushka on each floor makes sure you, and only you, get into your hotel room.
My advice to fellow travellers – if you’re gong to indulge in hanky-panky, the train is easier than the hotel!
I walked down to the main street to photograph Yul Brunner’s house at Number 15. It’s yellow (that narrow sit down to two) and opposite an art gallery (that narrows it down to none). Following the numbers doesn’t help, as very few buildings have numbers on (numbers 11 and 19 do, but there are six buildings between them). I got a picture of both!
I determined to visit the Vladivostok Fort Museum, so went through the seaside area (yes, it has beaches and even a topless bather, if you can see the photos) and then went too far and had to double back. Having found the museum and bought my ticket, I got no further for the next ten minutes, as one of the tours from the Dawn Princess was there and a passenger outside (and his wife), having espied my book on the TransSiberian in my hand, queried me about it, and then on the luxury rail down to Singapore from Thailand, visiting Australia and New Zealand and going home. Our conversation was cut short by the tour returning and everyone having to board the bus. I looked around the museum (set up in a series of casements with outside exhibits completing the show). Most of the displays were WWII and previous vintage, but a few were nearly current. It has been done by volunteers, and a good job they have done too. The 100 py6 entry fee is very reasonable. I went back to the hotel, getting a drink along the way. I asked at the desk about Internet access (the WiFi isn’t working (I know that already) but I can use a cable with my laptop in the Business Centre. WRONG! The babushka there said, No way! Use their machines as is or not, so I didn’t. Back to my room, write up my blog, discharge the camera batteries (and then hopefully charge them) and process the photos from today. Then, after getting my passport and ticket back, sleep to rise at 0430 for an early morning trip to the airport to arrive in Beijing in the late morning (and hopefully have some breakfast before I leave).
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
29 September
After an unsettled night (perhaps because the trip will soon be over) I woke at not long after 0200 and got up at 0240 to wash and dress. After that it was a cup of tea and look forward to the day.
The sun had risen, there was glorious sunshine and the trees were showing a range of autumn colours. The landscape varied between flattish plains, valleys and undulating plains between ranges of different heights.
The train paused briefly at Arkhana and then headed out. It appeared we were nearly on time. Then it was through similar land again until we reached Obluche at 0550 (1250 local time). Here we were scheduled for a fifteen-minute stop so there was a chance to look over the goods on offer as well as look along the station. The local dogs were also out in force. The sunny weather and slight breeze made for a pleasant time. I chose a corn on the cob as the best of the available food for me (potato and cabbage aren’t quite to my taste, and I wasn’t sure what was in some of the homemade fare). I ran into the family whose child I am trying to teach “G’day Mate” to and gave the father the last of my koala pins. The child seemed unimpressed and more interested in playing with his toys. I got shadowed by one of the dogs which seemed to have a liking for corn and wouldn’t be tempted by anything else – until another person on the platform gave her some corn, then she took her custom to her.
Very soon after, while enjoying the sunshine, we were reminded by our provodnitsa to board the train and a few minutes later we were on our way. We had very soon emerged from a tunnel (apparently the first through permafrost) to see a new tunnel being constructed next to it – tracks already laid but no overhead power yet. The line is totally electric.
From here, in the Jewish Autonomous Region, the land looked … the same. So we all settled back to enjoy it.
The carriage now has six occupants. Sharon and I in Cabin II and one person each in cabins III, IIX, IX and X. The person in Cabin IX speaks to us occasionally, but those in VII and IIX are always in their cabins. The one in III snores loudly enough for me to hear him through the wall and didn’t rise until after we had left Obluche. He keeps forgetting which cabin he is in. Two others left the train then, as a lot hop on, spend the night and then leave sometime during the next day, often on business as they come on in casual clothes in leave in suits.
It was a quiet ride to Khararovsk, where we arrived at 1255 Moscow (1855 local) time. We weren’t allowed to wander too far from the train carriage as our provodnitsa wasn’t sure what time we were to leave. The station was fairly quiet, but we lost one man and picked up one girl (who got the bed in the compartment next door, and didn’t seem too happy at sharing it with a man. But she was still in there half an hour after we left at 1315.
I spent the next bit of time tidying up and packing things for a quick getaway tomorrow morning. I asked one of our provodnitsas if she would pose for a photo with the other and she giggled “no” – but I will try tomorrow morning anyway. The tea bags are packed away, as is the sugar, for my next train trip in just over a week’s time. I will be packing up the extension lead and power-board as the last thing before I go to bed and then it will be a quick wash in the morning, a final and brief packing of the suitcase (shoes, washer, toothbrush and track suit pants), the backpack (power items, drives and laptop) and jacket (mobile and test kit).
At the moment the plan is to walk to the hotel and leave the luggage, do the Funicular Railway, walk back down the main street, see a few things and get a breakfast/lunch at a burger joint, do a ferry ride at noon, go back to the hotel and do some washing, see a few museums and photograph Yul Brunner’s house, have a light tea and then go back to the hotel, see if there is Internet access and, if so, upload a few blogs and quite a few pictures. Then, sleep, before an early morning trip to the airport to arrive in Beijing in the late morning.
The sun had risen, there was glorious sunshine and the trees were showing a range of autumn colours. The landscape varied between flattish plains, valleys and undulating plains between ranges of different heights.
The train paused briefly at Arkhana and then headed out. It appeared we were nearly on time. Then it was through similar land again until we reached Obluche at 0550 (1250 local time). Here we were scheduled for a fifteen-minute stop so there was a chance to look over the goods on offer as well as look along the station. The local dogs were also out in force. The sunny weather and slight breeze made for a pleasant time. I chose a corn on the cob as the best of the available food for me (potato and cabbage aren’t quite to my taste, and I wasn’t sure what was in some of the homemade fare). I ran into the family whose child I am trying to teach “G’day Mate” to and gave the father the last of my koala pins. The child seemed unimpressed and more interested in playing with his toys. I got shadowed by one of the dogs which seemed to have a liking for corn and wouldn’t be tempted by anything else – until another person on the platform gave her some corn, then she took her custom to her.
Very soon after, while enjoying the sunshine, we were reminded by our provodnitsa to board the train and a few minutes later we were on our way. We had very soon emerged from a tunnel (apparently the first through permafrost) to see a new tunnel being constructed next to it – tracks already laid but no overhead power yet. The line is totally electric.
From here, in the Jewish Autonomous Region, the land looked … the same. So we all settled back to enjoy it.
The carriage now has six occupants. Sharon and I in Cabin II and one person each in cabins III, IIX, IX and X. The person in Cabin IX speaks to us occasionally, but those in VII and IIX are always in their cabins. The one in III snores loudly enough for me to hear him through the wall and didn’t rise until after we had left Obluche. He keeps forgetting which cabin he is in. Two others left the train then, as a lot hop on, spend the night and then leave sometime during the next day, often on business as they come on in casual clothes in leave in suits.
It was a quiet ride to Khararovsk, where we arrived at 1255 Moscow (1855 local) time. We weren’t allowed to wander too far from the train carriage as our provodnitsa wasn’t sure what time we were to leave. The station was fairly quiet, but we lost one man and picked up one girl (who got the bed in the compartment next door, and didn’t seem too happy at sharing it with a man. But she was still in there half an hour after we left at 1315.
I spent the next bit of time tidying up and packing things for a quick getaway tomorrow morning. I asked one of our provodnitsas if she would pose for a photo with the other and she giggled “no” – but I will try tomorrow morning anyway. The tea bags are packed away, as is the sugar, for my next train trip in just over a week’s time. I will be packing up the extension lead and power-board as the last thing before I go to bed and then it will be a quick wash in the morning, a final and brief packing of the suitcase (shoes, washer, toothbrush and track suit pants), the backpack (power items, drives and laptop) and jacket (mobile and test kit).
At the moment the plan is to walk to the hotel and leave the luggage, do the Funicular Railway, walk back down the main street, see a few things and get a breakfast/lunch at a burger joint, do a ferry ride at noon, go back to the hotel and do some washing, see a few museums and photograph Yul Brunner’s house, have a light tea and then go back to the hotel, see if there is Internet access and, if so, upload a few blogs and quite a few pictures. Then, sleep, before an early morning trip to the airport to arrive in Beijing in the late morning.
28 September
Today I woke to the streaming sunlight through the window at around 0300 Moscow, 0900 local time. The scenery was similar to yesterday so I stayed in bed watching the scenery pass by me until at 1000 local time I thought I had better rise. Down to the toilet for a wash and dress, then a cup of tea and some biscuits while reading through the travel for today.
About an hour later Sharon woke, so it was time for another cup of tea and the last of the chocolate Teddy Bears. I have to save the other packet for the return journey.
I finished off my loaf of bread (as it was starting to get stale) and looking forward to a stop in Mogocha to walk around, get some exercise and stock up for the last two days. I was able to query if the stop was ten minutes (in Russian) to our provodnitsa and got the nod, so wandered up the platform. By the time I had looked around a little, there was a call to reboard (accompanied by an urgent wave from our provodnitsa) so, without any shopping, it was straight back on. I had tried to ring Fran, but there was no reply on the home phone. As I boarded, I got a call that stopped after one ring. On the train I called back to find it was Fran’s mobile which had accidentally called me. I told Ashley (who answered) where we were, to hear Fran say she thought I was going to Beijing (well, I am, but via Vladivostock).
According to the train timetable we are running just under an hour late, but according to a book we are on time, so it is a little confusing. The town we stopped in had village hoses to the north and the more substantial city buildings to the south. All the books comment that here it is between 40°C n summer and –60°C in winter. This is supported by snow we saw to the south of the train line and immediately adjacent to it, snow on mountains to the north and ice on the roads (but only in shade). In the train it is a constant 24°C – rather too warm during the middle of the day and definitely too warm overnight.
The trees in general have lost most of their leaves while the few with foliage remaining are a glorious golden colour. Some of the trees have trunks blackened from the cold and from the permafrost. Most of the land is rather like Scandinavia; rock base and a thin layer of soil, so that trees have a very shallow root system. The areas of arable pasture are limited and there are no visible areas of cultivation other than domestic yards. The few pasture areas with hay harvested have only small haystacks and the hay appears to be manually harvested. The only animals visible are cows, goats and horses.
Roads are dirt, very similar to those in rural Australia, even to the gradings piled up at the sides of the roads. One interesting feature is that we have travelled beside a substantial river for nearly an hour to get to Mogocha, yet it doesn’t appear on our maps. The rail line is also quite winding, choosing gentle grades and areas of stable base soil.
In general views today are of sweeping plains or valleys with backdrops of mountains.
We stopped in Amazar at 1015 Moscow (1515 local) time. Although the scheduled stop time is twenty minutes, we were told less than ten. I walked up and down the platform but couldn’t see any sliced bread. I took photos of some of the platform vendors (being a Sunday, families were out in force ad children were selling buckets of berries (presumably their pocket-money) and while the boys and adults didn’t mind being photographed, the girls turned their faces away. And then, before five minutes had elapsed, we were herded back onto the train. Our provodnitsa is determined not to lose us. In the train we waited for nearly five minutes before the announcement and then, a minute after the announcement, we glided out. Having an electric locomotive makes it very quiet, as there is no roar of the diesel generators to power the electric motors as on our diesel-electric locomotives.
After Amazar, the terrain was reputed to become more rugged and roads ceased, but to me the terrain didn’t seem too different and the first thing Sharon saw was a road. The difference was that the river we travelled along was now flowing in the opposite direction to our travel. The sun was very warm through the window when we travelled north-west, as it shone directly in.
We stopped at Yerofey Pavlovich at 1215 Moscow (1815 local) time. Here our provodnitsa gave u and just shrugged when I asked how long. However there were only two women on the platform and two kiosks, so the pickings were going to be lean anyway. I looked up and down, saw nothing particularly interesting so wandered along. I ran into the parents of the “G’day mate” boy who told me he was asleep and was spoken to by another fellow who works at a steel plant and had someone from Italy there (he forgot and thought they were from Australia until a friend reminded him). Then we were asked to get back on the train, so I took the opportunity to ring Fran (who answered). I finished the conversation before the train finally moved out at 1232 (half an hour late, but I expect we will make up time).
After this, it now being 1900 local time, the sun was going down and it was time to tidy up the day (finish up the blog and upload and process all the photos) and then get ready to retire. It’s very tiring, this doing nothing.
About an hour later Sharon woke, so it was time for another cup of tea and the last of the chocolate Teddy Bears. I have to save the other packet for the return journey.
I finished off my loaf of bread (as it was starting to get stale) and looking forward to a stop in Mogocha to walk around, get some exercise and stock up for the last two days. I was able to query if the stop was ten minutes (in Russian) to our provodnitsa and got the nod, so wandered up the platform. By the time I had looked around a little, there was a call to reboard (accompanied by an urgent wave from our provodnitsa) so, without any shopping, it was straight back on. I had tried to ring Fran, but there was no reply on the home phone. As I boarded, I got a call that stopped after one ring. On the train I called back to find it was Fran’s mobile which had accidentally called me. I told Ashley (who answered) where we were, to hear Fran say she thought I was going to Beijing (well, I am, but via Vladivostock).
According to the train timetable we are running just under an hour late, but according to a book we are on time, so it is a little confusing. The town we stopped in had village hoses to the north and the more substantial city buildings to the south. All the books comment that here it is between 40°C n summer and –60°C in winter. This is supported by snow we saw to the south of the train line and immediately adjacent to it, snow on mountains to the north and ice on the roads (but only in shade). In the train it is a constant 24°C – rather too warm during the middle of the day and definitely too warm overnight.
The trees in general have lost most of their leaves while the few with foliage remaining are a glorious golden colour. Some of the trees have trunks blackened from the cold and from the permafrost. Most of the land is rather like Scandinavia; rock base and a thin layer of soil, so that trees have a very shallow root system. The areas of arable pasture are limited and there are no visible areas of cultivation other than domestic yards. The few pasture areas with hay harvested have only small haystacks and the hay appears to be manually harvested. The only animals visible are cows, goats and horses.
Roads are dirt, very similar to those in rural Australia, even to the gradings piled up at the sides of the roads. One interesting feature is that we have travelled beside a substantial river for nearly an hour to get to Mogocha, yet it doesn’t appear on our maps. The rail line is also quite winding, choosing gentle grades and areas of stable base soil.
In general views today are of sweeping plains or valleys with backdrops of mountains.
We stopped in Amazar at 1015 Moscow (1515 local) time. Although the scheduled stop time is twenty minutes, we were told less than ten. I walked up and down the platform but couldn’t see any sliced bread. I took photos of some of the platform vendors (being a Sunday, families were out in force ad children were selling buckets of berries (presumably their pocket-money) and while the boys and adults didn’t mind being photographed, the girls turned their faces away. And then, before five minutes had elapsed, we were herded back onto the train. Our provodnitsa is determined not to lose us. In the train we waited for nearly five minutes before the announcement and then, a minute after the announcement, we glided out. Having an electric locomotive makes it very quiet, as there is no roar of the diesel generators to power the electric motors as on our diesel-electric locomotives.
After Amazar, the terrain was reputed to become more rugged and roads ceased, but to me the terrain didn’t seem too different and the first thing Sharon saw was a road. The difference was that the river we travelled along was now flowing in the opposite direction to our travel. The sun was very warm through the window when we travelled north-west, as it shone directly in.
We stopped at Yerofey Pavlovich at 1215 Moscow (1815 local) time. Here our provodnitsa gave u and just shrugged when I asked how long. However there were only two women on the platform and two kiosks, so the pickings were going to be lean anyway. I looked up and down, saw nothing particularly interesting so wandered along. I ran into the parents of the “G’day mate” boy who told me he was asleep and was spoken to by another fellow who works at a steel plant and had someone from Italy there (he forgot and thought they were from Australia until a friend reminded him). Then we were asked to get back on the train, so I took the opportunity to ring Fran (who answered). I finished the conversation before the train finally moved out at 1232 (half an hour late, but I expect we will make up time).
After this, it now being 1900 local time, the sun was going down and it was time to tidy up the day (finish up the blog and upload and process all the photos) and then get ready to retire. It’s very tiring, this doing nothing.
27 September
Awoke at 0103 Moscow time or 0503 local time in Irkutsk – but still in bed. Our Swedish neighbours left the train and were last seen heading off in the dark and the cold. I think Sergei and Alexi left also, but I can’t check until our next stop.
I got up about 0300 Moscow (0800 local) time, washed and dressed and then looked at the scenery. I got the first glimpses of Lake Baikal and soon after it became the predominant feature on the skyline. We passed through a few tunnels and then the lake became the view to the north.
The train stopped two minutes at Slyudyanka and each open door was assailed by a collection of fish-sellers. They didn’t have too much success at Carriage 7 with only one customer (dried split fish is not the most appetising thing early in the morning) and within the allotted time span we were off.
The lake and its shore villages, and the odd fisherman and fishing boat next to the lake, were to be the views to the north for the next few hours. To the south were views of forest and, in the distance, snow-covered mountain peaks. The line meandered between immediately next to the lake to a few hundred metres inland. Waves on the lake appeared to be over the metre mark.
After around two hours of lakeside views the track swung inland. Not too long after, at 0840 (1340 local time) we pulled up at Ulan-Ude for half an hour.
A businessman who had got on in Irkutsk left the train and we said goodbye – despite only exchanging about half a dozen words in the time we had seen each other in the corridor. I went out onto the platform to see what was available and say Sergei, Alexi and their families leaving the train here. I said goodbye to the parents and got a high five from the children and they departed. Along the platform I couldn’t find soft drink or sliced bread (but I did find an ice cream) so I walked across to the station and found some coke – but only as cans or a small bottle, so I got one of each. On the platform on the way back I ran into a jovial gent whom I’ve greeted at each stop so again we shook hands – but this time he said I should be drinking beer and not soft drink, so I tried to indicate why I was drinking the soft drink.
After a little exercise moving quickly up and down the platform near the carriage and being amused by a little one who was running away from his father (but not too far) and was so rugged up I am sure that there was only a skinny child inside, we were reminded to board. On time, 0920, we pulled out of the station.
As we headed out of the city there were all the people doing usual Saturday things. There was supposed to be a locomotive “graveyard” nearly half an hour out, which proved to be on the northern side (it wasn’t mentioned which side in the guide books). From there on the scenery became more rolling plains in a valley with hills to mountains on each side. After three hours we had a scheduled stop, but only of a minute or so, and we got another passenger. After this there was two hours to the next stop, Khilok. To break the tedium of the travel, Sharon and I decided to splurge and have dinner (at 1300 or 1900 respectively) in the Restaurant Car. This was an interesting experience, with Sharon having shashlik and me having pork escalope. We dined at the next table to the third member of our visitors from two nights ago ((Sergei and Alexi’s mate). The view from the car was good but the dirty windows precluded any really good photos. If the Russian Railways are looking for suggestions, I would say a lounge/observation car with the windows cleaned at each stop would go down well, especially if placed just behind the restaurant car.
We stopped at Khilok on schedule, so the first thing I did was to look for sliced bread (unsuccessful), then coke (successful for one litre). Along the platform I found the train is about four hundred metres long, that the older provodnitsas are all photo-shy but the young provodnitsas aren’t. I also met my beer-drinking mate who, when I told him I wasn’t drinking beer because of the weight it puts on, proudly patted his beer gut and shook hands again enthusiastically. One youngish boy gave me a high five so I gave him a “G’day Mate” so I’ll see if he can learn that by the time we get to Vladivostok or when he gets off the train (if before then).
Back on the train I took my suitcase out to find my map of Australia (successful) and pack away the dirty clothes (successful). At this rate I will have three sets of clothing to wash out in Vladivostok (but only one night) after I have my first shower for eight days. In Beijing I will try to have my trousers and jacket laundered.
It’s now 1923 local time (1423 Moscow or train time) so it won’t be too long before it will be time for bed (we gain another hour overnight). Sunset will be in another hour and already the light is too low to take photos.
It was off to bed and then sleep at around 2200 local time.
I got up about 0300 Moscow (0800 local) time, washed and dressed and then looked at the scenery. I got the first glimpses of Lake Baikal and soon after it became the predominant feature on the skyline. We passed through a few tunnels and then the lake became the view to the north.
The train stopped two minutes at Slyudyanka and each open door was assailed by a collection of fish-sellers. They didn’t have too much success at Carriage 7 with only one customer (dried split fish is not the most appetising thing early in the morning) and within the allotted time span we were off.
The lake and its shore villages, and the odd fisherman and fishing boat next to the lake, were to be the views to the north for the next few hours. To the south were views of forest and, in the distance, snow-covered mountain peaks. The line meandered between immediately next to the lake to a few hundred metres inland. Waves on the lake appeared to be over the metre mark.
After around two hours of lakeside views the track swung inland. Not too long after, at 0840 (1340 local time) we pulled up at Ulan-Ude for half an hour.
A businessman who had got on in Irkutsk left the train and we said goodbye – despite only exchanging about half a dozen words in the time we had seen each other in the corridor. I went out onto the platform to see what was available and say Sergei, Alexi and their families leaving the train here. I said goodbye to the parents and got a high five from the children and they departed. Along the platform I couldn’t find soft drink or sliced bread (but I did find an ice cream) so I walked across to the station and found some coke – but only as cans or a small bottle, so I got one of each. On the platform on the way back I ran into a jovial gent whom I’ve greeted at each stop so again we shook hands – but this time he said I should be drinking beer and not soft drink, so I tried to indicate why I was drinking the soft drink.
After a little exercise moving quickly up and down the platform near the carriage and being amused by a little one who was running away from his father (but not too far) and was so rugged up I am sure that there was only a skinny child inside, we were reminded to board. On time, 0920, we pulled out of the station.
As we headed out of the city there were all the people doing usual Saturday things. There was supposed to be a locomotive “graveyard” nearly half an hour out, which proved to be on the northern side (it wasn’t mentioned which side in the guide books). From there on the scenery became more rolling plains in a valley with hills to mountains on each side. After three hours we had a scheduled stop, but only of a minute or so, and we got another passenger. After this there was two hours to the next stop, Khilok. To break the tedium of the travel, Sharon and I decided to splurge and have dinner (at 1300 or 1900 respectively) in the Restaurant Car. This was an interesting experience, with Sharon having shashlik and me having pork escalope. We dined at the next table to the third member of our visitors from two nights ago ((Sergei and Alexi’s mate). The view from the car was good but the dirty windows precluded any really good photos. If the Russian Railways are looking for suggestions, I would say a lounge/observation car with the windows cleaned at each stop would go down well, especially if placed just behind the restaurant car.
We stopped at Khilok on schedule, so the first thing I did was to look for sliced bread (unsuccessful), then coke (successful for one litre). Along the platform I found the train is about four hundred metres long, that the older provodnitsas are all photo-shy but the young provodnitsas aren’t. I also met my beer-drinking mate who, when I told him I wasn’t drinking beer because of the weight it puts on, proudly patted his beer gut and shook hands again enthusiastically. One youngish boy gave me a high five so I gave him a “G’day Mate” so I’ll see if he can learn that by the time we get to Vladivostok or when he gets off the train (if before then).
Back on the train I took my suitcase out to find my map of Australia (successful) and pack away the dirty clothes (successful). At this rate I will have three sets of clothing to wash out in Vladivostok (but only one night) after I have my first shower for eight days. In Beijing I will try to have my trousers and jacket laundered.
It’s now 1923 local time (1423 Moscow or train time) so it won’t be too long before it will be time for bed (we gain another hour overnight). Sunset will be in another hour and already the light is too low to take photos.
It was off to bed and then sleep at around 2200 local time.
26 September
Today I awoke to glorious sunshine through the window – at 0600 Moscow time or 0900 local time. By 0630 I decided to get up and had my “wash” and dressed in track suit pants and shirt. Back in the cabin Sharon had woken, so we had a cup of tea and another Teddy Bear biscuit. Neither of us seemed too bad from the vodka the night before.
The scenery around was again light woods, but with a lot more open areas and many more villages, most quite picturesque. With the moving train and the windows (now soiled again despite our Swedish neighbour cleaning it for us yesterday) and proved difficult to get good photos of anything except blurred trees and the ubiquitous railside poles.
We stopped at Krasnoyarsk for about fifteen minutes (but only TEN MINUTES off the train – I think our provodnitsa is worried we will get left behind) and I got a good photo of a locomotive there. I didn’t see any good cakes on the platform (but I did spy Choco-Pie – evidently a traditional Russian recipe and good Russian name) so I will have to wait until our next stop. We crossed over the Yenisey River, which apart from bridge supports built to withstand small icebergs, had very scenic cliffs visible. After that we went through many more scenic villages, thus destroying completely my preconceived view of Siberia. At many of these villages, the villagers were standing and sitting at local train stations, waiting for the local train into the “big smoke” – aptly named here because the cities have a lot of smoke!
The rest of the day passed uneventfully, with the odd photo opportunity being taken.
It does seem funny now with the train running on Moscow time and the local time four hours ahead (and changing to five hours overnight.
The scenery around was again light woods, but with a lot more open areas and many more villages, most quite picturesque. With the moving train and the windows (now soiled again despite our Swedish neighbour cleaning it for us yesterday) and proved difficult to get good photos of anything except blurred trees and the ubiquitous railside poles.
We stopped at Krasnoyarsk for about fifteen minutes (but only TEN MINUTES off the train – I think our provodnitsa is worried we will get left behind) and I got a good photo of a locomotive there. I didn’t see any good cakes on the platform (but I did spy Choco-Pie – evidently a traditional Russian recipe and good Russian name) so I will have to wait until our next stop. We crossed over the Yenisey River, which apart from bridge supports built to withstand small icebergs, had very scenic cliffs visible. After that we went through many more scenic villages, thus destroying completely my preconceived view of Siberia. At many of these villages, the villagers were standing and sitting at local train stations, waiting for the local train into the “big smoke” – aptly named here because the cities have a lot of smoke!
The rest of the day passed uneventfully, with the odd photo opportunity being taken.
It does seem funny now with the train running on Moscow time and the local time four hours ahead (and changing to five hours overnight.
25 September
At 0800 Moscow time I woke, but we were moving slowly so I didn’t get up. Soon after we stopped, and after we were on the move again (ten minutes to be precise) I was able to go down, hand wash and dress.
After that it was have a cup (or two) of tea with a chocolate teddy bear (but not dunked, as the chocolate melts), some cakes (no bread yet, but I’ll get that at the next stop) and pose for photos with competition magazines from Australia. The scenery has changed to flat plains, some areas lightly wooded, a little cultivation but a lot of what appear to be grazing areas. The only animals seen were cows (too far from the track to come out in a photo) and a horse and cart (sulky – the cart, not the driver).
I tried the provodnitsa with a chocolate teddy bear and she seemed to like it very much. We have a system – thumbs up means OK and the number of fingers is how long we are at the station (but we have to be on board about five minutes before the train leaves). I have had the adaptor in the power socket in the corridor with my (Australian) extension lead along the wall and under the carpet and had no comments. When the corridor is being vacuumed, the cleaner just pulls the lead out and replaces it when finished. Although the compartment has a power outlet, the positioning of the TV (no, I haven’t watched any programs in Russian aand as I don’t have my iPod TV lead with me I can’t watch my movies on TV) prevents me putting the adaptor and lead in (insufficient room – memo to self: if I do it again, bring a right-angled Russian extension lead and use the adaptor in the compartment). Currently I have the computer, the battery charger, and the iPod charger plugged in, and also an adaptor so Sharon can charge her camera/iPod (so the number of sockets on the power board is just right!).
At 1115 Moscow time we called into Omsk. We stopped here for fifteen minutes and I managed to get a loaf of bread (not sliced though) from a kiosk. I had a look in the station (very nice) and a peek into the town from the station entrance, but then it was straight back onto the train. I missed out on seeing a locomotive at the end of the platform, but managed to get a photo as the train pulled out. The Beijing train was at the next platform to us, but not a shared platform, so we didn’t get to see the passengers from there again. We must be within a few minutes of each other all the way until they turn south.
We moved out very smoothly and soon we were cruising at about 115 km/hr. There must be welded track as the ride is smooth, but punctuated by very sharp jerks for no apparent reason (unless the movement over points is made more obvious because of the smoothness elsewhere). The track has compressed air lines next to it which are used for point actuation, and is electrified all the way. Near cities (Omsk is 1,3 million people) there are small platforms, presumably for the use of local trains (and there were plenty in the marshalling yards).
Armed with my bread, I went through my pack to get my plastic knife (still from a motel in the US), but I realise I should have brought my Wiltshire picnic knife/fork/spoon set in my suitcase to use along the way. I didn’t want to forget and pack in the backpack, though, and end up having it confiscated at an airline security check. Then, having sliced some bread and coated it with Vegemite, I was in my seventh heaven and enjoyed it so much I had another. I will now be set for the rest of the trip, but will get some cakes tomorrow as desserts (my just desserts or just my desserts?).
Aside:
1: what is the difference between a weasel and a stoat? A weasel is weasely recogniseable but a stoat is stoatally different.
2: what do you call a group of Australians in an empty paddock? A vacant lot.
3: did you know it takes an IQ of 25 to do up shoe-laces? That’s why Australians wear thongs (or flip-flops if you think a thing is a piece of underwear/swimming costume)
While I was going through the pack I came across my musical bear, but neither Sharon nor the provodnitsa seemed impressed by my musical ability. My first disappointment of the trip.
The countryside is still lightly wooded with open fields (meadows, leas, paddocks) but no visible fences. So far another group of cows are the only livestock seen. In some house yards, cabbages have still to be harvested, but the tilled areas visible make it obvious that other produce has been harvested already.
The countryside now is becoming more open, more like steppes, although there still is the occasional wood. At 1330 Moscow time (1630 local time) I saw my first fence – five stand galvanised wire (but not for long). We are about 100 km north of the “point” on the Kazakhstan border. As my guide predicted, we have passed more coal freight trains in this area.
At 1503 we pulled into Barabinsk. I prepared for the cold by putting the track-suit top on. Outside I was grateful for that. I took some photos of vendors and then walked along the platform towards where the locomotive had disconnected. Suddenly I found myself talking to a youngish Russian man and in a few seconds I had a bottle of beer in my hand. He introduced me to his brother and the children (I think the girl was his daughter and the boy was his nephew). I gave the girl my koala pin and then (of course) the boy wanted one. I went back to get it and got, “Thank you Grandfather Doug” from the boy. The fathers and myself continued a limited conversation (after I had taught the boy to say “G’day mate”) and we separated just before the warning was given to board the train.
Once back on the train I transferred the photos and was just about to process them when … our compartment was invaded by Alexis and Sergei, from the platform. The first order of business was vodka tasting, from the six (yes six) sample bottles Sergei brought with him. I showed them some pictures of Australia and then Alexis pulled his flash card out of his camera and we saw all the pictures of his friends and family. By the time we finished we were all firm friends even though we could barely understand one word of each other’s languages. I did find out that Alexis and Serei are in the army, Sergei is the higher-ranking officer and that all the families and their friends enjoy volleyball and fishing (and I found out Russian fishermen exaggerate the size of their catch just as much as fishermen everywhere do). (Memo to self: do NOT befriend Russians on platforms who have beer in their hands AND especially do not give pins to children of Russians if I want to finish the evening compis mente.)
Fortunately they had they had to return to their families and so the evening finished on a note of semiconsciousness. A few minutes after, at 1915 Moscow time (all trains run to Moscow time through all Russia) we pulled into Novosibirisk. After a brisk walk and stretch on the platform I got back into the train and waited for us to leave. A large number of people got on the train and, on schedule at 1935, we left the station.
After a short time, it was time for bed (local time is 2230) so I collapsed into bed.
After that it was have a cup (or two) of tea with a chocolate teddy bear (but not dunked, as the chocolate melts), some cakes (no bread yet, but I’ll get that at the next stop) and pose for photos with competition magazines from Australia. The scenery has changed to flat plains, some areas lightly wooded, a little cultivation but a lot of what appear to be grazing areas. The only animals seen were cows (too far from the track to come out in a photo) and a horse and cart (sulky – the cart, not the driver).
I tried the provodnitsa with a chocolate teddy bear and she seemed to like it very much. We have a system – thumbs up means OK and the number of fingers is how long we are at the station (but we have to be on board about five minutes before the train leaves). I have had the adaptor in the power socket in the corridor with my (Australian) extension lead along the wall and under the carpet and had no comments. When the corridor is being vacuumed, the cleaner just pulls the lead out and replaces it when finished. Although the compartment has a power outlet, the positioning of the TV (no, I haven’t watched any programs in Russian aand as I don’t have my iPod TV lead with me I can’t watch my movies on TV) prevents me putting the adaptor and lead in (insufficient room – memo to self: if I do it again, bring a right-angled Russian extension lead and use the adaptor in the compartment). Currently I have the computer, the battery charger, and the iPod charger plugged in, and also an adaptor so Sharon can charge her camera/iPod (so the number of sockets on the power board is just right!).
At 1115 Moscow time we called into Omsk. We stopped here for fifteen minutes and I managed to get a loaf of bread (not sliced though) from a kiosk. I had a look in the station (very nice) and a peek into the town from the station entrance, but then it was straight back onto the train. I missed out on seeing a locomotive at the end of the platform, but managed to get a photo as the train pulled out. The Beijing train was at the next platform to us, but not a shared platform, so we didn’t get to see the passengers from there again. We must be within a few minutes of each other all the way until they turn south.
We moved out very smoothly and soon we were cruising at about 115 km/hr. There must be welded track as the ride is smooth, but punctuated by very sharp jerks for no apparent reason (unless the movement over points is made more obvious because of the smoothness elsewhere). The track has compressed air lines next to it which are used for point actuation, and is electrified all the way. Near cities (Omsk is 1,3 million people) there are small platforms, presumably for the use of local trains (and there were plenty in the marshalling yards).
Armed with my bread, I went through my pack to get my plastic knife (still from a motel in the US), but I realise I should have brought my Wiltshire picnic knife/fork/spoon set in my suitcase to use along the way. I didn’t want to forget and pack in the backpack, though, and end up having it confiscated at an airline security check. Then, having sliced some bread and coated it with Vegemite, I was in my seventh heaven and enjoyed it so much I had another. I will now be set for the rest of the trip, but will get some cakes tomorrow as desserts (my just desserts or just my desserts?).
Aside:
1: what is the difference between a weasel and a stoat? A weasel is weasely recogniseable but a stoat is stoatally different.
2: what do you call a group of Australians in an empty paddock? A vacant lot.
3: did you know it takes an IQ of 25 to do up shoe-laces? That’s why Australians wear thongs (or flip-flops if you think a thing is a piece of underwear/swimming costume)
While I was going through the pack I came across my musical bear, but neither Sharon nor the provodnitsa seemed impressed by my musical ability. My first disappointment of the trip.
The countryside is still lightly wooded with open fields (meadows, leas, paddocks) but no visible fences. So far another group of cows are the only livestock seen. In some house yards, cabbages have still to be harvested, but the tilled areas visible make it obvious that other produce has been harvested already.
The countryside now is becoming more open, more like steppes, although there still is the occasional wood. At 1330 Moscow time (1630 local time) I saw my first fence – five stand galvanised wire (but not for long). We are about 100 km north of the “point” on the Kazakhstan border. As my guide predicted, we have passed more coal freight trains in this area.
At 1503 we pulled into Barabinsk. I prepared for the cold by putting the track-suit top on. Outside I was grateful for that. I took some photos of vendors and then walked along the platform towards where the locomotive had disconnected. Suddenly I found myself talking to a youngish Russian man and in a few seconds I had a bottle of beer in my hand. He introduced me to his brother and the children (I think the girl was his daughter and the boy was his nephew). I gave the girl my koala pin and then (of course) the boy wanted one. I went back to get it and got, “Thank you Grandfather Doug” from the boy. The fathers and myself continued a limited conversation (after I had taught the boy to say “G’day mate”) and we separated just before the warning was given to board the train.
Once back on the train I transferred the photos and was just about to process them when … our compartment was invaded by Alexis and Sergei, from the platform. The first order of business was vodka tasting, from the six (yes six) sample bottles Sergei brought with him. I showed them some pictures of Australia and then Alexis pulled his flash card out of his camera and we saw all the pictures of his friends and family. By the time we finished we were all firm friends even though we could barely understand one word of each other’s languages. I did find out that Alexis and Serei are in the army, Sergei is the higher-ranking officer and that all the families and their friends enjoy volleyball and fishing (and I found out Russian fishermen exaggerate the size of their catch just as much as fishermen everywhere do). (Memo to self: do NOT befriend Russians on platforms who have beer in their hands AND especially do not give pins to children of Russians if I want to finish the evening compis mente.)
Fortunately they had they had to return to their families and so the evening finished on a note of semiconsciousness. A few minutes after, at 1915 Moscow time (all trains run to Moscow time through all Russia) we pulled into Novosibirisk. After a brisk walk and stretch on the platform I got back into the train and waited for us to leave. A large number of people got on the train and, on schedule at 1935, we left the station.
After a short time, it was time for bed (local time is 2230) so I collapsed into bed.
24 September
Day dawned at about 0530. I resisted the temptation to rise and rolled over, but by 0745 it was light outside and there was scenery to be scene (or should that be seen?). Off down to the toilet (no shower, that I can find) and a sponge down of the important parts, a dry off with the towel (Formule1-size) and dress in a track suit (I’ll try that for the duration). Then it was get a cup of tea, load it up with sugar, and slowly drink it.
After a while Sharon woke up, so to celebrate our first morning on the train we had a chocolate Teddy Bear biscuit. Then it was prepare for the day (neither of us knows what it will contain).
At about 1035 we stopped in Kirov (Vyatka) for fifteen minutes. Here was a chance to stretch legs, get away from the overheated carriage, buy some goods (coke in my case, two litres for 80 py6, but no bread) and see the souvenir sellers. Quite a few left the train, including a couple from two cabins down, where the man spoke some English but the woman spoke quite good English. Just before we left, the TransMongolian train pulled in, with Chinese (male) staff in comparison to our Russian (female) staff. Here I ran into a couple from Sweden who I had met briefly yesterday evening on the platform at Moscow. It looks like our trains will be travelling parallel (or nearly so) until our routes separate just after Ulan-Ude. They are slightly behind us and pull into stations on another platform if there is one available. The Chinese staff smile and seem friendly (this is the train I will be returning on). The provodnitsa warned me we had only ten minutes stop, so I was back on in plenty of time.
Oncc out of the station, we passed more woodland with some open fields and the occasional village. The cleaning staff vacuumed and changed the bed linen in the vacated cabins and everyone looked busy (though I had no idea of what they were doing). Sharon and I had some more tea, I had some more coke, and time passed as did more scenery. The autumn colours are very scenic on the trees, but the windows in the cabin (double glazed) are not too clean on the outside, so photography through them is problematic.
At our next stop (Balyezino) I got a bread roll and some cakes for the day’s meals. As the afternoon progressed on, I ate the roll and some of the cake, we had more tea, I had some more coke and the day, overcast, continued. Later in the afternoon we stopped at Chetspa for about fifteen minutes. On the platform I met some fellow Australians who are in Car 8 (I’m in Car 7, Berth 4) – but they are not going all the way.
Not long after we pulled out, I downloaded and processed today’s photos (not very many) but couldn’t do anything more except update my blog. I haven’t come across any open wireless networks, nor do I imagine I will. Then darkness descended gradually and evening settled in.
Just to vary life a little (as a routine has been established by now), we went to the Restaurant car and shared a bottle of Muldovian white wine (note to Cindy if you’re reading this – the train has a wider-named selection of wines than the ship). During the first glass the lights went out (not a power failure, just the restaurateur’s way of telling us to hurry) and then back on again, but at the end of the second glass, the restaurateur pointed to his watch and made it obvious he wanted to go to sleep (even though it was only 2100 Moscow time but 2300 local time). We retired to the cabin and settled down for our second evening on the train. Before midnight local time I was asleep.
After a while Sharon woke up, so to celebrate our first morning on the train we had a chocolate Teddy Bear biscuit. Then it was prepare for the day (neither of us knows what it will contain).
At about 1035 we stopped in Kirov (Vyatka) for fifteen minutes. Here was a chance to stretch legs, get away from the overheated carriage, buy some goods (coke in my case, two litres for 80 py6, but no bread) and see the souvenir sellers. Quite a few left the train, including a couple from two cabins down, where the man spoke some English but the woman spoke quite good English. Just before we left, the TransMongolian train pulled in, with Chinese (male) staff in comparison to our Russian (female) staff. Here I ran into a couple from Sweden who I had met briefly yesterday evening on the platform at Moscow. It looks like our trains will be travelling parallel (or nearly so) until our routes separate just after Ulan-Ude. They are slightly behind us and pull into stations on another platform if there is one available. The Chinese staff smile and seem friendly (this is the train I will be returning on). The provodnitsa warned me we had only ten minutes stop, so I was back on in plenty of time.
Oncc out of the station, we passed more woodland with some open fields and the occasional village. The cleaning staff vacuumed and changed the bed linen in the vacated cabins and everyone looked busy (though I had no idea of what they were doing). Sharon and I had some more tea, I had some more coke, and time passed as did more scenery. The autumn colours are very scenic on the trees, but the windows in the cabin (double glazed) are not too clean on the outside, so photography through them is problematic.
At our next stop (Balyezino) I got a bread roll and some cakes for the day’s meals. As the afternoon progressed on, I ate the roll and some of the cake, we had more tea, I had some more coke and the day, overcast, continued. Later in the afternoon we stopped at Chetspa for about fifteen minutes. On the platform I met some fellow Australians who are in Car 8 (I’m in Car 7, Berth 4) – but they are not going all the way.
Not long after we pulled out, I downloaded and processed today’s photos (not very many) but couldn’t do anything more except update my blog. I haven’t come across any open wireless networks, nor do I imagine I will. Then darkness descended gradually and evening settled in.
Just to vary life a little (as a routine has been established by now), we went to the Restaurant car and shared a bottle of Muldovian white wine (note to Cindy if you’re reading this – the train has a wider-named selection of wines than the ship). During the first glass the lights went out (not a power failure, just the restaurateur’s way of telling us to hurry) and then back on again, but at the end of the second glass, the restaurateur pointed to his watch and made it obvious he wanted to go to sleep (even though it was only 2100 Moscow time but 2300 local time). We retired to the cabin and settled down for our second evening on the train. Before midnight local time I was asleep.
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
23 September
After just dozing all night (must be the excitement of going on the TransSiberian) I was up not long after 0700 and down for breakfast about 0750. Today I beat the South African gent down and had nearly finished before he arrived. We had a bit of a chat, then farewelled each other as I am off tonight and won’t see him again. I was surprised that he hadn’t used or seen much of the metro, as it is world-famous (and a very quick way of getting around).
Then it was back to the room to pack (not too neatly, as I will be on the train and not a plane), check that I had left nothing and finally out for the day by about 0900. The luggage was left so I could travel relatively unencumbered.
As I was early for visiting museums (the point of today), I walked down towards the Kremlin again. I paused at Lubyanka Place to photograph the old prison and was asked (not told) not to take photos, so I complied and moved on. But the last thing I had read was about the Polytechnical Museum, so not having seen anything like that while I was away, I decided I could invest a little time. And so, after three and a half hours, I left, having entered at 1000. In that time I saw some very good models of mines and factories, some series of developments (including computers, where a Mac Plus like the one I still use occasionally, was on display as a relic!) and some original material, including devices used by Tesla and Van Lewanhook (inventor of the microscope – and I know I’ve misspelt it), the first Russian atomic bomb and models of most of their spacecraft. The biggest disappointment (apart from the dilapidated state of the building, but that is being refurbished) was the lack of people inside. Apart from three small schoolgroups, I saw about six other people looking at the exhibits (and we were outnumbered by the baboushkas, though some of them were really helpful and pointed out good things to see). After that I walked to Lenin’s tomb, only to find (naturally) that it closed at 1300. I went to have some lunch at the centre of American capitalism right opposite the Kremlin (and there is some irony there, in that in the US, I got shown the Capitol Building by a Russian and here I was eating at an American chain opposite the Kremlin) and on my way out photographed where the Bolshio building has had the hammer and sickle replaced by the double-headed Russian eagle. I thought I had had enough so I caught the Metro back to my hotel, but found I was far too early. I needed sugar for the train trip, so walked down a side street as far as the next main road into the city looking for a supermarket and … no luck! I walked through a park (still marvelling at how many of them there are, and how many have playgrounds for children) and then back along another side street. I found a possible street vendor, and after making her understand what I was after, she said she didn’t have any but there was a place to the right about five minutes further on. As it turned out, it was only two minutes further on, and almost diagonally opposite the hotel! I got the sugar (500g of cubes, easier to handle while travelling) and then investigated the neighbourhood opposite the hotel. Just down another street there were garages with graffiti, in, you guessed it, English, so that got photographed. Then one of two girls who looked like they had sneaked out for a quick smoke cried out and rushed away, only to come back embracing two other girls (presumably friends she had had not seen for two minutes). Just down the alley there was a church which was being renovated but was still conducting services, even though the inside was still being plastered up and the outside had not been started. On the way back to the hotel I saw a cat curled up in the sun, but it didn’t respond to my meow, so it looks as though I cannot meow in Russian. Then I got asked directions by a Russian girl and had to answer that I couldn’t speak Russian (although that didn’t stop me last night, when I helped a young Russian couple who looked like they were from the country, totally bewildered by the Metro and all the people and couldn’t find the way to get to the Green Line from the Red Line – I showed them with signals). Finally I decided I could go into the hotel, sit down, write up my blog for today (as far as I could) and post it, as well as uploading today’s photos and sending my last email for a week or so (or maybe more). At just after 1730, I’ve finished all those tasks and will sit back and wait for my driver at 1925.
As a side note, I know why they need all those public toilets on the street in Moscow. It’s all those fountains, and their sound of running water, and everyone needs to go, even if they don’t!
Then it was back to the room to pack (not too neatly, as I will be on the train and not a plane), check that I had left nothing and finally out for the day by about 0900. The luggage was left so I could travel relatively unencumbered.
As I was early for visiting museums (the point of today), I walked down towards the Kremlin again. I paused at Lubyanka Place to photograph the old prison and was asked (not told) not to take photos, so I complied and moved on. But the last thing I had read was about the Polytechnical Museum, so not having seen anything like that while I was away, I decided I could invest a little time. And so, after three and a half hours, I left, having entered at 1000. In that time I saw some very good models of mines and factories, some series of developments (including computers, where a Mac Plus like the one I still use occasionally, was on display as a relic!) and some original material, including devices used by Tesla and Van Lewanhook (inventor of the microscope – and I know I’ve misspelt it), the first Russian atomic bomb and models of most of their spacecraft. The biggest disappointment (apart from the dilapidated state of the building, but that is being refurbished) was the lack of people inside. Apart from three small schoolgroups, I saw about six other people looking at the exhibits (and we were outnumbered by the baboushkas, though some of them were really helpful and pointed out good things to see). After that I walked to Lenin’s tomb, only to find (naturally) that it closed at 1300. I went to have some lunch at the centre of American capitalism right opposite the Kremlin (and there is some irony there, in that in the US, I got shown the Capitol Building by a Russian and here I was eating at an American chain opposite the Kremlin) and on my way out photographed where the Bolshio building has had the hammer and sickle replaced by the double-headed Russian eagle. I thought I had had enough so I caught the Metro back to my hotel, but found I was far too early. I needed sugar for the train trip, so walked down a side street as far as the next main road into the city looking for a supermarket and … no luck! I walked through a park (still marvelling at how many of them there are, and how many have playgrounds for children) and then back along another side street. I found a possible street vendor, and after making her understand what I was after, she said she didn’t have any but there was a place to the right about five minutes further on. As it turned out, it was only two minutes further on, and almost diagonally opposite the hotel! I got the sugar (500g of cubes, easier to handle while travelling) and then investigated the neighbourhood opposite the hotel. Just down another street there were garages with graffiti, in, you guessed it, English, so that got photographed. Then one of two girls who looked like they had sneaked out for a quick smoke cried out and rushed away, only to come back embracing two other girls (presumably friends she had had not seen for two minutes). Just down the alley there was a church which was being renovated but was still conducting services, even though the inside was still being plastered up and the outside had not been started. On the way back to the hotel I saw a cat curled up in the sun, but it didn’t respond to my meow, so it looks as though I cannot meow in Russian. Then I got asked directions by a Russian girl and had to answer that I couldn’t speak Russian (although that didn’t stop me last night, when I helped a young Russian couple who looked like they were from the country, totally bewildered by the Metro and all the people and couldn’t find the way to get to the Green Line from the Red Line – I showed them with signals). Finally I decided I could go into the hotel, sit down, write up my blog for today (as far as I could) and post it, as well as uploading today’s photos and sending my last email for a week or so (or maybe more). At just after 1730, I’ve finished all those tasks and will sit back and wait for my driver at 1925.
As a side note, I know why they need all those public toilets on the street in Moscow. It’s all those fountains, and their sound of running water, and everyone needs to go, even if they don’t!
Monday, September 22, 2008
22 September
As I had no need to be up at any particular time, I woke at 0730 and eventually forced myself up at 0800, performed the usual, and was down for breakfast at 0830. I shared the table with a South African, who had lived in England, here with business – I met him in the lobby yesterday when I arrived at my early hour.
After finishing breakfast (toast – yeah! – cornflakes, egg and bacon and vegetables washed down with cold orange juice and hot sweet black tea) I walked down to the Kremlin. This took twenty-five minutes at a very slow strolling pace. Suddenly I found myself in Red Square, in a spot where I had been before in drizzle and cold conditions – but now it was sunny and (relatively) warm. I went to take some photos there and then went to walk around the outer walls of the Kremlin. Before I stated, I ran into three girls from the US studying at Stanford in Russia (one each from Reno, Nevada, Maryland and Wisconsin). We had a chat and were going to see Lenin’s tomb except – it’s not open on Mondays! I’ll try again tomorrow. I walked around the paths outside the Kremlin, starting with the Alexander Gardens which were once a river. They are beautiful, and here also is an eternal flame with an honour guard. I wonder if, like other countries, the chance to stand outside in all weathers and enduring all comments and looks from tourists is highly fought for? Further around I ran into a party of Orthodox clergy who were also tourists. Back at St Basil’s I was taking photos close-up of each dome and took a photo for two girls from Russia. They asked me if I thought it was cold (once they knew I was from Australia) and I said no – I should have said, do yard duty on the oval at Werribee and you’ll know what cold is!
After that I headed into the GUM because there are FREE toilets there (third floor, just near the coffee shop) and, unlike the ones in the street, they don’t smell.
I had walked slowly and so was no ready to continue on. This consisted of a stroll around the Metropole Hotel and then a walk through an historic neighbourhood. Interesting things there were the traffic (thick and slow), the parking (but nowhere near as unordered as Italy), Moscow souvenirs made in China being unpacked from delivery trucks wall-to-wall. While on the walk I ran into a couple from Australia who had just arrived and were finding their bearings. At the end of the walk I entered a subway station past parts of old town walls and photographed the marker there, while a street vendor with gold teeth bent out of the way. All the subway walks are lined with small vendors, either transitory or permanent.
I caught the Metro back and came out up at the corner at the northern end of “my” street, called into the Macca’s for a late lunch/early tea (no drive-through here, just a walk-through on the street level) and got back to my hotel about 1430.
Here I found a note about the arrangement and travel (and my train ticket for tomorrow night (car 7 berth 4) had arrived – good news – but my key card didn’t open my door – bad news. However the girl on the dsk spoke English – good news – but was a trainee and couldn’t reprogram the card – bad news. In a few minutes the other receptionist arrived and I was in business.
Upstairs in my room and I downloaded and processed the photos, wrote part of today’s blog and then uploaded the photos for today to-date.
After, I headed out onto the subway to look at and photograph some subway stations. I had a city cultural map which outlined those which were better, so I visited those but chose to photograph only three. Once I had done that, I caught the subway back to the local station and experienced my only delay on the system – the train was stopped for over two minutes. Considering there is a train every two minutes and they spend about half a minute in the station, this was a considerable delay but wouldn’t even rate a mention at home. Even so, many got off because the delay was unacceptable to them. However I was back at my station and then back in the hotel in a fairly short time. Then it was the mundane thing of washing clothes (so they will be dry when I pack in the morning), trimming hair and beard (they grow quickly when away, probably because I have the time to notice I look different from my passport photo), processing new photos (it never ends!) and then finishing writing up this blog as I’m going to watch a movie and then go to sleep. Tomorrow I plan to pack, visit some museums and then return here by 1830 and then rest and send emails post blog (and perhaps post photos)before getting picked up at 1930 to get to the station and wait for … the train to VLADIVOSTOK!
So, dear reader, tomorrow, one way or another will be the last you will hear of me until I reach Beijing and post a series of blogs and a lot (yes, a lot!) of photos. This should be the evening of 1 October, most likely late Australian time.
After finishing breakfast (toast – yeah! – cornflakes, egg and bacon and vegetables washed down with cold orange juice and hot sweet black tea) I walked down to the Kremlin. This took twenty-five minutes at a very slow strolling pace. Suddenly I found myself in Red Square, in a spot where I had been before in drizzle and cold conditions – but now it was sunny and (relatively) warm. I went to take some photos there and then went to walk around the outer walls of the Kremlin. Before I stated, I ran into three girls from the US studying at Stanford in Russia (one each from Reno, Nevada, Maryland and Wisconsin). We had a chat and were going to see Lenin’s tomb except – it’s not open on Mondays! I’ll try again tomorrow. I walked around the paths outside the Kremlin, starting with the Alexander Gardens which were once a river. They are beautiful, and here also is an eternal flame with an honour guard. I wonder if, like other countries, the chance to stand outside in all weathers and enduring all comments and looks from tourists is highly fought for? Further around I ran into a party of Orthodox clergy who were also tourists. Back at St Basil’s I was taking photos close-up of each dome and took a photo for two girls from Russia. They asked me if I thought it was cold (once they knew I was from Australia) and I said no – I should have said, do yard duty on the oval at Werribee and you’ll know what cold is!
After that I headed into the GUM because there are FREE toilets there (third floor, just near the coffee shop) and, unlike the ones in the street, they don’t smell.
I had walked slowly and so was no ready to continue on. This consisted of a stroll around the Metropole Hotel and then a walk through an historic neighbourhood. Interesting things there were the traffic (thick and slow), the parking (but nowhere near as unordered as Italy), Moscow souvenirs made in China being unpacked from delivery trucks wall-to-wall. While on the walk I ran into a couple from Australia who had just arrived and were finding their bearings. At the end of the walk I entered a subway station past parts of old town walls and photographed the marker there, while a street vendor with gold teeth bent out of the way. All the subway walks are lined with small vendors, either transitory or permanent.
I caught the Metro back and came out up at the corner at the northern end of “my” street, called into the Macca’s for a late lunch/early tea (no drive-through here, just a walk-through on the street level) and got back to my hotel about 1430.
Here I found a note about the arrangement and travel (and my train ticket for tomorrow night (car 7 berth 4) had arrived – good news – but my key card didn’t open my door – bad news. However the girl on the dsk spoke English – good news – but was a trainee and couldn’t reprogram the card – bad news. In a few minutes the other receptionist arrived and I was in business.
Upstairs in my room and I downloaded and processed the photos, wrote part of today’s blog and then uploaded the photos for today to-date.
After, I headed out onto the subway to look at and photograph some subway stations. I had a city cultural map which outlined those which were better, so I visited those but chose to photograph only three. Once I had done that, I caught the subway back to the local station and experienced my only delay on the system – the train was stopped for over two minutes. Considering there is a train every two minutes and they spend about half a minute in the station, this was a considerable delay but wouldn’t even rate a mention at home. Even so, many got off because the delay was unacceptable to them. However I was back at my station and then back in the hotel in a fairly short time. Then it was the mundane thing of washing clothes (so they will be dry when I pack in the morning), trimming hair and beard (they grow quickly when away, probably because I have the time to notice I look different from my passport photo), processing new photos (it never ends!) and then finishing writing up this blog as I’m going to watch a movie and then go to sleep. Tomorrow I plan to pack, visit some museums and then return here by 1830 and then rest and send emails post blog (and perhaps post photos)before getting picked up at 1930 to get to the station and wait for … the train to VLADIVOSTOK!
So, dear reader, tomorrow, one way or another will be the last you will hear of me until I reach Beijing and post a series of blogs and a lot (yes, a lot!) of photos. This should be the evening of 1 October, most likely late Australian time.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
21 September
Another interesting day dawned. But before it did I was up and had washed (no shower, that I could see) and dressed and had discovered a power outlet in the compartment and was transcribing my blog for yesterday.
Before too long, day had dawned and soon my breakfast called me from my writings. I had a slice of pork with chips and tomato sauce, peaches in syrup (ate the peaches, not the syrup) and cheese with olives (had the cheese, left the olives). By the time I had finished it was time to pack and the train glided it at its appointed time of 0755. This time I made sure I was first out and then walked to the head of the platform. Guess what? People with signs for Norquist and Pilot, another for a yellow taxi, but none for me. I wasn’t sure if I was to be met, so I waited until about 0815 with stern “Nyet!” to all the taxi drivers who approached me. I didn’t see the one from a fortnight ago, and by 0820 I headed off on foot (it is only about a mile or so). As I was leaving the station proximity, I saw a Mazda MPV, silver, P 519 XP with the driver I recognised. So if you are ever in Moscow, unless you want to throw money away, avoid that vehicle and driver!
It was only a few minutes before I was able to confirm I was in the right street, heading in the correct direction, and only about fifteen minutes before I realised the worse – I would have to cross an intersection underground, therefore meeting at least two sets of thirty steps. There was no choice, so I did it and found myself on the correct street for the hotel, with a Metro station next to me and a Macca’s opposite. With a joyous heart (it’s always good to get something right for a change and to be able to do it by myself) I progressed the hundred or so metres down the street and found the hotel.
Naturally at this time (about 0915) I wasn’t able to check in, but I was able to complete passport and formal details and leave my luggage. Off to the Metro, and because I will be here for another two days and a few days on my return from Beijing, I went for the superspecial saver – ten rides for 155 py6. I went down, rode into the city circle lien and looked at a few stations. Then I remembered – I had a purpose today. I had to go to the New Maiden Cemetery, visit and photograph famous gravesites (for myself and for Cindy – or should that be Cyndy? I changed for the Red line and got out at the correct station to find myself in familiar territory. A brisk walk down the street in bright sunshine and I was at the cemetery (whoops, no I wasn’t – I was at the Novodevichy Cemetery – but then I remembered that was its Russian name). Another pleasant surprise – no entry charge today! Off I went and found a number of graves, and found myself in the company of many others also trying to find gravesites. Some of them, despite being listed on a number of maps and in many publications, were not easy to find. There was only one I gave up on, but I found all the others. I will ist them all in an addendum to this blog, but currently they can be worked out by reading the (Russian) names and checking the birth and death dates. I was working n tandem with a family from New Zealand/England, an individual from south Africa/Spain and a group from England. It was so easy to be looking and go straight by the gravesite. By 1430 I had enough and caught the Metro back to where I was staying, called into Macca’s for a late lunch/tea and then to the hotel. Ah, no lift, so I got assistance with the suitcase. I then wrote up and completed my blog for yesterday and today, downloaded and processed my photos from yesterday and today, charged the mobile, batteries and the iPod and found (despite knowing there was only WiFi in the lobby, getting three networks from the room and then checking mail, uploading photos onto Flickr, checking my hit rate (fans are fickle – don’t post for a few days and they desert you) and uploading blogs.
The I checked on breakfast for the next few days, looked around the hotel, did some washing, showered and retired early to catch up on sleep (the train wasn’t bad, just too short a sleep time).
Before too long, day had dawned and soon my breakfast called me from my writings. I had a slice of pork with chips and tomato sauce, peaches in syrup (ate the peaches, not the syrup) and cheese with olives (had the cheese, left the olives). By the time I had finished it was time to pack and the train glided it at its appointed time of 0755. This time I made sure I was first out and then walked to the head of the platform. Guess what? People with signs for Norquist and Pilot, another for a yellow taxi, but none for me. I wasn’t sure if I was to be met, so I waited until about 0815 with stern “Nyet!” to all the taxi drivers who approached me. I didn’t see the one from a fortnight ago, and by 0820 I headed off on foot (it is only about a mile or so). As I was leaving the station proximity, I saw a Mazda MPV, silver, P 519 XP with the driver I recognised. So if you are ever in Moscow, unless you want to throw money away, avoid that vehicle and driver!
It was only a few minutes before I was able to confirm I was in the right street, heading in the correct direction, and only about fifteen minutes before I realised the worse – I would have to cross an intersection underground, therefore meeting at least two sets of thirty steps. There was no choice, so I did it and found myself on the correct street for the hotel, with a Metro station next to me and a Macca’s opposite. With a joyous heart (it’s always good to get something right for a change and to be able to do it by myself) I progressed the hundred or so metres down the street and found the hotel.
Naturally at this time (about 0915) I wasn’t able to check in, but I was able to complete passport and formal details and leave my luggage. Off to the Metro, and because I will be here for another two days and a few days on my return from Beijing, I went for the superspecial saver – ten rides for 155 py6. I went down, rode into the city circle lien and looked at a few stations. Then I remembered – I had a purpose today. I had to go to the New Maiden Cemetery, visit and photograph famous gravesites (for myself and for Cindy – or should that be Cyndy? I changed for the Red line and got out at the correct station to find myself in familiar territory. A brisk walk down the street in bright sunshine and I was at the cemetery (whoops, no I wasn’t – I was at the Novodevichy Cemetery – but then I remembered that was its Russian name). Another pleasant surprise – no entry charge today! Off I went and found a number of graves, and found myself in the company of many others also trying to find gravesites. Some of them, despite being listed on a number of maps and in many publications, were not easy to find. There was only one I gave up on, but I found all the others. I will ist them all in an addendum to this blog, but currently they can be worked out by reading the (Russian) names and checking the birth and death dates. I was working n tandem with a family from New Zealand/England, an individual from south Africa/Spain and a group from England. It was so easy to be looking and go straight by the gravesite. By 1430 I had enough and caught the Metro back to where I was staying, called into Macca’s for a late lunch/tea and then to the hotel. Ah, no lift, so I got assistance with the suitcase. I then wrote up and completed my blog for yesterday and today, downloaded and processed my photos from yesterday and today, charged the mobile, batteries and the iPod and found (despite knowing there was only WiFi in the lobby, getting three networks from the room and then checking mail, uploading photos onto Flickr, checking my hit rate (fans are fickle – don’t post for a few days and they desert you) and uploading blogs.
The I checked on breakfast for the next few days, looked around the hotel, did some washing, showered and retired early to catch up on sleep (the train wasn’t bad, just too short a sleep time).
20 September
I started writing this up in the St Petersburg-Moscow station on paper. But in the train – bingo! A power outlet in the compartment. So at 0620 on the 21st, I’m typing this.
What a day! Fast police cars. Coincidences and other kind people.
Although I woke at 0700 there was no hurry so I didn’t get up until after 0800. By the time I had finished the usual ablutions (and finding the water, like some people, ran hot, cold, hot, cold), I was down for breakfast at 0835. Today there was orange juice (tepid) but still no toaster. I ended up sharing my table with a Russian lady from Murmansk, who was impressed that I knew of it, had been there and liked it, but was not impressed by my lack of Russian. For me, the worse thing is that I can now read a bit of Russian, on context, and read signs and advertising, but not pronounce anything (other than “da;, “nyet” and “nyet Russki”). After a conversation of not too many words and a breakfast including vegetables (no toast but Vegemite and raw toast again, with peas, carrots, corn and peppers). On the way back to my room I enquired about leaving my luggage (OK), so I ewnt up, finished my ablutions, finished packing (including a parcel to go home) and finally checked the room to ensure nothing was left behind. When I went to check out, on the first attempt I got a bill for 3150 py6 (roubles), but on checking that was reduced to 150 py6 (a registration fee, which no-one else has charged – or perhaps no-one else has registered me). I left the luggage (suitcase and backpack) and headed off to the Metro t go to the city Post Office to post the parcel.
I got out at the Metro station nearest the Post Office and couldn’t determine which way to turn (no street signs in Russian or English) and the lack of sun (overcast and cool) meant I couldn’t orientate myself for direction. I did the only thing I could and asked a policeman. After realising what I was after (post office to post a parcel), he indicated I should cross the street, turn left, then turn right and finally turn left again. Then he indicated for me to follow him. I did so until I came to a red pedestrian light, but he urged me to ignore it and follow him. I did and found myself in a police car, a nd a few moments later was travelling the streets of St Petersburg at up to 100 km/hr and through all lights (except if there was a vehicle stopped in front of us, in which case he had to slow down to go around it) until we arrived at the Post Office a few minutes after. I thanked him very much and got out, and he was off as the door was closing.
At the Post Office, emboldened by my previous success, I asked a security guard which line to post a parcel to Australia (a mixture of mime and speech). She took me over to a line and put me in it. While waitig, I struck up a sort of conversation with a young couple behind me. At the window I presented my plastic bag of books, sheets, DVD and a CD. The woman clerk went through and took out the CD and DVD (the couple explained that printed material goes more cheaply) and then handed the parcel to the woman next to her to be wrapped. I was handed it back with the words “TO” and “FROM” in different places and I filled hem out, then stood back in line. I continued conversation with the wife (the husband was now filling out forms at the window(, but was called to the second window as soon as the person there had left. After she weighed the parcel, I got a request for 556,3 py6, which I paid. She stuck a pile of stamps on (good), cancelled hem (good) and covered them with adhesive tape (bad). Then my parcel, securely wrapped in brown paper and held together with tape and string, was cast into a sorting bin (hopefully to arrive in Australia before I do). I left, thanking the wife and asking her to thank the husband for me.
I departed and rang Fran fro outside, explaining that another parcel was on its way (the two from Finland have arrived) and detailing my high-speed ride through St Petersburg. I decided that I would go back to the city centre along the canals, to see more slowly (and a bit more comfortably, as the temperature was not as low as on the canal boat), the scenery I had seen earlier in the week. Imagine my surprise when, after crossing two streets, I spied two very familiar faces – Scott and Carmel from the boat! After commenting how we could hardly believe coincidences, I got their email addresses and then we swapped notes on what we had seen seen our departure from the ship (an dour adventures with hotels). WE than parted again (when will we meet again under similar peculiar circumstances) and I walked down beside he canal. At the main street, I turned, walked up to the gardens (a misnomer as there are gardens everywhere), took some photos and then went back to arrive at Macca’s at 1217 (not a good memory, I just referred to the receipt). Feeling more comfortable (the toilets are free there) and with the inner man refreshed, I walked a long the embankment in front of the Hermitage , over the river (on the Eiffel Bridge) and around to the cruiser “Aurora”. Here the children I encountered were all aged over thirty and having a lot of fun. Interesting things: this ship fired a blank round at the Winter Palace to begin the October (November) revolution; it was sunk to prevent the Germans getting it in WWII; it has 152,4 mm main guns, which are in fact 6 inch! However I was feeling footsore again at this point. I must toughen up as only four hours walking is not really excessive, but shipboard life and conducted tours have softened me up. I decided to ride the rails and have a look around, but found Rasputin was not the only crafty Russian: on the St Petersburg Metro, you HAVE to get out at the last station AND you can’t just walk to the return platform – you have to use another token! I did that and rode another line, looking at the stations along the way (all with “no photography” signs – I didn’t know if that was still up-to-date, but didn’t want to find out the hard way). After that it was back to the hotel (the crowds on the Metro were thinning), use of the public WC there (the first time I have had to pull a chain in years) and then picking up my luggage. It was a surprisingly short time before I was back at the Metro with my luggage, down the steps (and the escalator) and onto the train. I had to go through the luggage barrier (without turnstiles, and use a plastic token, which a guard got for me) but that was the only hassle. With the lightly loaded train I could turn without fear of maiming someone with the backpack (currently it’s about ten kilograms). At the other end it was another escalator ride and ten steps, a short walk and I was in the hall of the Moscow station. After getting a drink I found a seat, had the donuts from yesterday (and some chocolate) for tea and settled down. I watched “Goldfinger” and a “Dr Who” episode and then listened to John Williamson after I had written up my paper diary (which I’ve now transcribed). It was some time later when the sign came on the board to board Train No. 1. (If you’re wondering, I travelled at that time to avoid crowds but before it was dark and also to avoid predatory taxi drivers.)
I went out and chatted to two (academic) chemists from Florida for a few moments before the personnel were out to check our boarding details. I was in Car 9 Berth 15 (and pleasantly found I had no companion) and found it to be a comfortable room to the standard of Australian trains (except no shower) and with aircraft-style toilets at the end of the carriage. This augers well as my next train is also a No. 1, but bound for Vladivostok (on Tuesday evening, at 2215). I quickly got the bed down and changed for sleeping, then was interrupted to ask what I wanted for breakfast (option 3, as the first two had fish and the fourth was vegetarian). After that it was to sleep, with a quiet but slightly rocking ride.
What a day! Fast police cars. Coincidences and other kind people.
Although I woke at 0700 there was no hurry so I didn’t get up until after 0800. By the time I had finished the usual ablutions (and finding the water, like some people, ran hot, cold, hot, cold), I was down for breakfast at 0835. Today there was orange juice (tepid) but still no toaster. I ended up sharing my table with a Russian lady from Murmansk, who was impressed that I knew of it, had been there and liked it, but was not impressed by my lack of Russian. For me, the worse thing is that I can now read a bit of Russian, on context, and read signs and advertising, but not pronounce anything (other than “da;, “nyet” and “nyet Russki”). After a conversation of not too many words and a breakfast including vegetables (no toast but Vegemite and raw toast again, with peas, carrots, corn and peppers). On the way back to my room I enquired about leaving my luggage (OK), so I ewnt up, finished my ablutions, finished packing (including a parcel to go home) and finally checked the room to ensure nothing was left behind. When I went to check out, on the first attempt I got a bill for 3150 py6 (roubles), but on checking that was reduced to 150 py6 (a registration fee, which no-one else has charged – or perhaps no-one else has registered me). I left the luggage (suitcase and backpack) and headed off to the Metro t go to the city Post Office to post the parcel.
I got out at the Metro station nearest the Post Office and couldn’t determine which way to turn (no street signs in Russian or English) and the lack of sun (overcast and cool) meant I couldn’t orientate myself for direction. I did the only thing I could and asked a policeman. After realising what I was after (post office to post a parcel), he indicated I should cross the street, turn left, then turn right and finally turn left again. Then he indicated for me to follow him. I did so until I came to a red pedestrian light, but he urged me to ignore it and follow him. I did and found myself in a police car, a nd a few moments later was travelling the streets of St Petersburg at up to 100 km/hr and through all lights (except if there was a vehicle stopped in front of us, in which case he had to slow down to go around it) until we arrived at the Post Office a few minutes after. I thanked him very much and got out, and he was off as the door was closing.
At the Post Office, emboldened by my previous success, I asked a security guard which line to post a parcel to Australia (a mixture of mime and speech). She took me over to a line and put me in it. While waitig, I struck up a sort of conversation with a young couple behind me. At the window I presented my plastic bag of books, sheets, DVD and a CD. The woman clerk went through and took out the CD and DVD (the couple explained that printed material goes more cheaply) and then handed the parcel to the woman next to her to be wrapped. I was handed it back with the words “TO” and “FROM” in different places and I filled hem out, then stood back in line. I continued conversation with the wife (the husband was now filling out forms at the window(, but was called to the second window as soon as the person there had left. After she weighed the parcel, I got a request for 556,3 py6, which I paid. She stuck a pile of stamps on (good), cancelled hem (good) and covered them with adhesive tape (bad). Then my parcel, securely wrapped in brown paper and held together with tape and string, was cast into a sorting bin (hopefully to arrive in Australia before I do). I left, thanking the wife and asking her to thank the husband for me.
I departed and rang Fran fro outside, explaining that another parcel was on its way (the two from Finland have arrived) and detailing my high-speed ride through St Petersburg. I decided that I would go back to the city centre along the canals, to see more slowly (and a bit more comfortably, as the temperature was not as low as on the canal boat), the scenery I had seen earlier in the week. Imagine my surprise when, after crossing two streets, I spied two very familiar faces – Scott and Carmel from the boat! After commenting how we could hardly believe coincidences, I got their email addresses and then we swapped notes on what we had seen seen our departure from the ship (an dour adventures with hotels). WE than parted again (when will we meet again under similar peculiar circumstances) and I walked down beside he canal. At the main street, I turned, walked up to the gardens (a misnomer as there are gardens everywhere), took some photos and then went back to arrive at Macca’s at 1217 (not a good memory, I just referred to the receipt). Feeling more comfortable (the toilets are free there) and with the inner man refreshed, I walked a long the embankment in front of the Hermitage , over the river (on the Eiffel Bridge) and around to the cruiser “Aurora”. Here the children I encountered were all aged over thirty and having a lot of fun. Interesting things: this ship fired a blank round at the Winter Palace to begin the October (November) revolution; it was sunk to prevent the Germans getting it in WWII; it has 152,4 mm main guns, which are in fact 6 inch! However I was feeling footsore again at this point. I must toughen up as only four hours walking is not really excessive, but shipboard life and conducted tours have softened me up. I decided to ride the rails and have a look around, but found Rasputin was not the only crafty Russian: on the St Petersburg Metro, you HAVE to get out at the last station AND you can’t just walk to the return platform – you have to use another token! I did that and rode another line, looking at the stations along the way (all with “no photography” signs – I didn’t know if that was still up-to-date, but didn’t want to find out the hard way). After that it was back to the hotel (the crowds on the Metro were thinning), use of the public WC there (the first time I have had to pull a chain in years) and then picking up my luggage. It was a surprisingly short time before I was back at the Metro with my luggage, down the steps (and the escalator) and onto the train. I had to go through the luggage barrier (without turnstiles, and use a plastic token, which a guard got for me) but that was the only hassle. With the lightly loaded train I could turn without fear of maiming someone with the backpack (currently it’s about ten kilograms). At the other end it was another escalator ride and ten steps, a short walk and I was in the hall of the Moscow station. After getting a drink I found a seat, had the donuts from yesterday (and some chocolate) for tea and settled down. I watched “Goldfinger” and a “Dr Who” episode and then listened to John Williamson after I had written up my paper diary (which I’ve now transcribed). It was some time later when the sign came on the board to board Train No. 1. (If you’re wondering, I travelled at that time to avoid crowds but before it was dark and also to avoid predatory taxi drivers.)
I went out and chatted to two (academic) chemists from Florida for a few moments before the personnel were out to check our boarding details. I was in Car 9 Berth 15 (and pleasantly found I had no companion) and found it to be a comfortable room to the standard of Australian trains (except no shower) and with aircraft-style toilets at the end of the carriage. This augers well as my next train is also a No. 1, but bound for Vladivostok (on Tuesday evening, at 2215). I quickly got the bed down and changed for sleeping, then was interrupted to ask what I wanted for breakfast (option 3, as the first two had fish and the fourth was vegetarian). After that it was to sleep, with a quiet but slightly rocking ride.
Friday, September 19, 2008
19 September
Today on land – different after the days spent on the river.
After being told breakfast started at 0800, I prepared (but had to wait for the hot water – and wait and wait) and was down at precisely 0800 to find that the breakfast room was full to overcrowding already. After a look around I was mortified to find no toaster, so I had to settle for butter and Vegemite on raw toast (with sausages and eggs, but NO cornflakes or orange juice). I’m acclimatising to black tea (but only with sugar) but I’m not a fan. I’ll be back with milk and no sugar as soon as possible.
After breakfast I went back to the room and got ready to go out. I took some time to find the Metro station as the scale on the maps is not too good, and I went too far and had to turn back. Once on the Metro it was a quick run, but very crowded, out to the Avtovo Metro station where I caught a 424 bus out to the Peterhof. After false starts I got off and couldn’t see anything. When I found the gate and walked in – well, every corner held new surprises. The size and magnificence of the public gardens was great, but in the palace gardens – if I had any breath left after seeing all the things around St Petersburg, it had finally gone. I haven’t seen Versailles, but it will have to be out of this world to top what I saw today.
Apart from a few details like gold and statues, the amount of water was something I haven’t seen (at home at least) in years. I really can’t describe it all, expect to say after nearly three hours I couldn’t walk any more and my mind was exhausted from conjuring up superlatives to describe what I saw. Look at the photos from Russia 1 Day 14 to get an idea.
I caught the 424A bus back to the Metro and then left the Metro to check on access for the Moscow station on Saturday night (I leave at 2355, but will camp out earlier). That was okay, but quite a few steps, and then I walked around the area outside the station. With a few minutes I was footsore again (pampered from being on tours and the ship) so caught the Metro back to the hotel. I processed the photos from today and uploaded them (well, they are uploading at this time and I hope they continue), got some goodies from the corner supermarket for tea and then returned to write my blogs and post them. Then it’s off to sleep!
After being told breakfast started at 0800, I prepared (but had to wait for the hot water – and wait and wait) and was down at precisely 0800 to find that the breakfast room was full to overcrowding already. After a look around I was mortified to find no toaster, so I had to settle for butter and Vegemite on raw toast (with sausages and eggs, but NO cornflakes or orange juice). I’m acclimatising to black tea (but only with sugar) but I’m not a fan. I’ll be back with milk and no sugar as soon as possible.
After breakfast I went back to the room and got ready to go out. I took some time to find the Metro station as the scale on the maps is not too good, and I went too far and had to turn back. Once on the Metro it was a quick run, but very crowded, out to the Avtovo Metro station where I caught a 424 bus out to the Peterhof. After false starts I got off and couldn’t see anything. When I found the gate and walked in – well, every corner held new surprises. The size and magnificence of the public gardens was great, but in the palace gardens – if I had any breath left after seeing all the things around St Petersburg, it had finally gone. I haven’t seen Versailles, but it will have to be out of this world to top what I saw today.
Apart from a few details like gold and statues, the amount of water was something I haven’t seen (at home at least) in years. I really can’t describe it all, expect to say after nearly three hours I couldn’t walk any more and my mind was exhausted from conjuring up superlatives to describe what I saw. Look at the photos from Russia 1 Day 14 to get an idea.
I caught the 424A bus back to the Metro and then left the Metro to check on access for the Moscow station on Saturday night (I leave at 2355, but will camp out earlier). That was okay, but quite a few steps, and then I walked around the area outside the station. With a few minutes I was footsore again (pampered from being on tours and the ship) so caught the Metro back to the hotel. I processed the photos from today and uploaded them (well, they are uploading at this time and I hope they continue), got some goodies from the corner supermarket for tea and then returned to write my blogs and post them. Then it’s off to sleep!
18 September
The last day on the ship – and at the present, the wrong length. After getting up at the now usual time and doing the now usual things, it was funny to go to the dining room and notice quite a few missing. I saw one of the reception ladies and asked about Katya, but she wasn’t around yet. I had breakfast and then went back to my cabin and finished the ablutions for the day and was just about to finalise my packing (the cabin had to be emptied by 0915 so the cleaning crew could ready them for the next load of passengers (the ship returns to Moscow and then sails to Rostov where, if I understand it correctly, the ship will winter)) when Katya arrived. I asked if I could be picked up either earlier or later in the day and, after a quick call, the answer was later.
My mind was made up – I would be off to the city and revisit the Hermitage, to have a look over areas we didn’t visit and to get a catalogue for Ash. The packing finished apace and the suitcase was left outside while the backpack went into a cabin for storage. As I headed out I caught up with Scott and Carmel and we said our last goodbyes (and I’ve misplaced your email address, so if you read this, can you email me please!) and then I was down to the Metro station, purchased four tokens at seventeen roubles each (I will be using some tomorrow) and within a few minutes I was into the city of St Petersburg.
Here I walked from the Metro station to the Hermitage and was ready in line within a few minutes of opening time. The line moved (but not quickly) and by 1040 I was in. The first order of business was to get this catalogue (mistake!) and I headed around to the museum shop (or shops, as I found out, by trying two who specialised in selling other things before I got to the booksellers) and found … they only have one book covering all the painters, not one for each section. I ended up carting a boot which weighs about two kilograms around with me (and by 1400 it weighed about ten kilograms). I went to the ancient Egyptian display first, which was overwhelming. Perhaps I had better save that adjective for the Greek and Roman display, which was like a walk down a street in ancient times (except they probably didn’t have so many statues in so small an area). I had only spent a short time looking at these (or so I thought, finding it was now 1230) before I moved on to medieval armour and a general look at the Hermitage. One thing amazed me which I hadn’t noticed yesterday – the ceilings were all art works in themselves. You could scoot around on a mechanics’ trolley and see them all, but it would take so long. As I said later to another, the best way to see the Hermitage (in my opinion) is to get there at opening time, spend an hour and a half looking around, have morning teas (before they others all have lunch), then look around for another one and a half and have lunch, then do the same and have afternoon tea and leave when you get thrown out. I retired, defeated at about 1400 and caught the Metro back to the ship (but weakened and called into McDonald’s on the way and found the prices about the same as in Australia). Walking back from the Metro, I was surprised by how short the walk was.
Back at the ship I ran into the two Scots ladies and the Dutch couple. However, soon all our transport arrived (all separate of course) and I was in a Ford focus with a young man studying to be a motor mechanic driving to my hotel. He was using a mobile phone SatNav to direct him and we were soon there. I had to wait to check in and … first hitch! Internet access now charged. After some tooing and froing, I got my access (included) and went up to my room (incidentally 211, as was the cabin number).
Eventually I set everything up and went on the Internet, posting blogs and photos. I found my loyal fans had deserted me (with no postings, my views were down to as low as two a day) but they were back with a vengeance, as some had selected photos as favourites before I had finished uploading the set.
I felt too tired to write after answering a few emails which had piled up, so I was soon off to bed (after I had done some washing) and, soon after that, to sleep.
My mind was made up – I would be off to the city and revisit the Hermitage, to have a look over areas we didn’t visit and to get a catalogue for Ash. The packing finished apace and the suitcase was left outside while the backpack went into a cabin for storage. As I headed out I caught up with Scott and Carmel and we said our last goodbyes (and I’ve misplaced your email address, so if you read this, can you email me please!) and then I was down to the Metro station, purchased four tokens at seventeen roubles each (I will be using some tomorrow) and within a few minutes I was into the city of St Petersburg.
Here I walked from the Metro station to the Hermitage and was ready in line within a few minutes of opening time. The line moved (but not quickly) and by 1040 I was in. The first order of business was to get this catalogue (mistake!) and I headed around to the museum shop (or shops, as I found out, by trying two who specialised in selling other things before I got to the booksellers) and found … they only have one book covering all the painters, not one for each section. I ended up carting a boot which weighs about two kilograms around with me (and by 1400 it weighed about ten kilograms). I went to the ancient Egyptian display first, which was overwhelming. Perhaps I had better save that adjective for the Greek and Roman display, which was like a walk down a street in ancient times (except they probably didn’t have so many statues in so small an area). I had only spent a short time looking at these (or so I thought, finding it was now 1230) before I moved on to medieval armour and a general look at the Hermitage. One thing amazed me which I hadn’t noticed yesterday – the ceilings were all art works in themselves. You could scoot around on a mechanics’ trolley and see them all, but it would take so long. As I said later to another, the best way to see the Hermitage (in my opinion) is to get there at opening time, spend an hour and a half looking around, have morning teas (before they others all have lunch), then look around for another one and a half and have lunch, then do the same and have afternoon tea and leave when you get thrown out. I retired, defeated at about 1400 and caught the Metro back to the ship (but weakened and called into McDonald’s on the way and found the prices about the same as in Australia). Walking back from the Metro, I was surprised by how short the walk was.
Back at the ship I ran into the two Scots ladies and the Dutch couple. However, soon all our transport arrived (all separate of course) and I was in a Ford focus with a young man studying to be a motor mechanic driving to my hotel. He was using a mobile phone SatNav to direct him and we were soon there. I had to wait to check in and … first hitch! Internet access now charged. After some tooing and froing, I got my access (included) and went up to my room (incidentally 211, as was the cabin number).
Eventually I set everything up and went on the Internet, posting blogs and photos. I found my loyal fans had deserted me (with no postings, my views were down to as low as two a day) but they were back with a vengeance, as some had selected photos as favourites before I had finished uploading the set.
I felt too tired to write after answering a few emails which had piled up, so I was soon off to bed (after I had done some washing) and, soon after that, to sleep.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
17 September
Ah, a day that worked out!
It started as usual by waking to the alarm, rolling over and then actually getting up at 0705. All preparations went smoothly and I even remembered to take the Vegemite with me. The only problem was the power to the toasters went out (looks like a circuit breaker was overloaded somewhere). We finished breakfast and went our ways, me to prepare for the day by charging some batteries I had loaned yesterday and packing (very lightly) for the day – camera and camera bag, nothing more.
I was out at the bus where we picked up our guide from yesterday, Inna, and the correct bus, this time with boris driving. Yesterday we had Mikial (Misha). By 0900 we were off to the Hermitage with two additional passengers (two many for the Albatross bus). We couldn’t arrive until 1000 yet had a good run into the city so filled in time by circling the block (twice in the same streets, so it was sort of obvious). We did end up on the Embankment at the right time and here was the first place I saw the police controlling the traffic light lights. We parked, passengers out and we headed over to the entrance. I had already put forward my one hundred roubles for photography, but no flash is allowed with paintings, so some of them will seem fuzzy (as the exposure time was too long for successful handheld photography, but there was no other choice). I had decided to save time by leaving my jacket in the bus and was greeted by horrified looks from fellow passengers, the guide and officials on duty outside the Hermitage.
Once inside it was very warm – in fact I felt too hot most of the time. But the tour was … fantastic. From the entry hall (designed to impress, and it did) through the halls and the exhibition rooms, it literally was like a story-book place. The size, the wall and ceiling decorations and finally the works of art just were too much to believe and I can see how no matter now long one has to visit, it will never be enough. After our introductory tour I went to see the French painters and then found I had very little time left to get to the bus, so the catalogue I have to get for Ash will have to be obtained tomorrow (or perhaps the day after, but I will get it). After a too-brief tour and look at 1230 we were all back on the bus and some left in a minibus for the ship. The rest of us stayed on the bus, eventually got our packed lunch and were on our way out to Catherine’s Palace and the Amber Room.
Same situation there, so I was out in shirt-sleeves with disbelieving looks all around and we set off to walk the last few hundred metres in. Scott got a descriptive book for a good price, so set the benchmark for the rest of us (see later). WE walked in through the main entrance and it was breath-taking. The size and presentation was unbelievable. Inside, the Gold Hall (as in the Winter Palace) was truly a sight to behold. All the dining and study rooms were equally good, but the Amber Room was smaller in size but far greater in magnificence. The story is more I can go into here, but in a nutshell it was destroyed in WW II and rebuilt after. To see the pictures of the whole building and the damage was distressing, but to see the repair is fantastic. The guide’s husband had worked on part of the restoration of the church, so she knew about the work there even though she (and us of course) couldn’t see it.
Too soon it was back to the ship, quickly this time and we were back by 1600. As dinner wasn’t until 1900 and many (but not me) are going to the ballet tonight, it was a good chance to have some rest time before heading off.
I processed my photos and wrote my blog and can now hardly wait until tomorrow when I can check my email and post photos and blogs. I wonder if anyone will nave missed me?
Also, tonight is the last time most of us will see each other as we depart at different times tomorrow for different destinations (most to their homes), but a few of us get to stay in St Petersburg a couple of days more.
It started as usual by waking to the alarm, rolling over and then actually getting up at 0705. All preparations went smoothly and I even remembered to take the Vegemite with me. The only problem was the power to the toasters went out (looks like a circuit breaker was overloaded somewhere). We finished breakfast and went our ways, me to prepare for the day by charging some batteries I had loaned yesterday and packing (very lightly) for the day – camera and camera bag, nothing more.
I was out at the bus where we picked up our guide from yesterday, Inna, and the correct bus, this time with boris driving. Yesterday we had Mikial (Misha). By 0900 we were off to the Hermitage with two additional passengers (two many for the Albatross bus). We couldn’t arrive until 1000 yet had a good run into the city so filled in time by circling the block (twice in the same streets, so it was sort of obvious). We did end up on the Embankment at the right time and here was the first place I saw the police controlling the traffic light lights. We parked, passengers out and we headed over to the entrance. I had already put forward my one hundred roubles for photography, but no flash is allowed with paintings, so some of them will seem fuzzy (as the exposure time was too long for successful handheld photography, but there was no other choice). I had decided to save time by leaving my jacket in the bus and was greeted by horrified looks from fellow passengers, the guide and officials on duty outside the Hermitage.
Once inside it was very warm – in fact I felt too hot most of the time. But the tour was … fantastic. From the entry hall (designed to impress, and it did) through the halls and the exhibition rooms, it literally was like a story-book place. The size, the wall and ceiling decorations and finally the works of art just were too much to believe and I can see how no matter now long one has to visit, it will never be enough. After our introductory tour I went to see the French painters and then found I had very little time left to get to the bus, so the catalogue I have to get for Ash will have to be obtained tomorrow (or perhaps the day after, but I will get it). After a too-brief tour and look at 1230 we were all back on the bus and some left in a minibus for the ship. The rest of us stayed on the bus, eventually got our packed lunch and were on our way out to Catherine’s Palace and the Amber Room.
Same situation there, so I was out in shirt-sleeves with disbelieving looks all around and we set off to walk the last few hundred metres in. Scott got a descriptive book for a good price, so set the benchmark for the rest of us (see later). WE walked in through the main entrance and it was breath-taking. The size and presentation was unbelievable. Inside, the Gold Hall (as in the Winter Palace) was truly a sight to behold. All the dining and study rooms were equally good, but the Amber Room was smaller in size but far greater in magnificence. The story is more I can go into here, but in a nutshell it was destroyed in WW II and rebuilt after. To see the pictures of the whole building and the damage was distressing, but to see the repair is fantastic. The guide’s husband had worked on part of the restoration of the church, so she knew about the work there even though she (and us of course) couldn’t see it.
Too soon it was back to the ship, quickly this time and we were back by 1600. As dinner wasn’t until 1900 and many (but not me) are going to the ballet tonight, it was a good chance to have some rest time before heading off.
I processed my photos and wrote my blog and can now hardly wait until tomorrow when I can check my email and post photos and blogs. I wonder if anyone will nave missed me?
Also, tonight is the last time most of us will see each other as we depart at different times tomorrow for different destinations (most to their homes), but a few of us get to stay in St Petersburg a couple of days more.
16 September
Again I woke up at 0645 but resisted the temptation to rise until 0705 – again justifying it by the fact that breakfast is only a minute away, and I made it to the table in time. But … suddenly I was panic-stricken! I thought I had left my Vegemite in the cabin, only to return and be unable to find it. Had it been stolen? Unlikely, and if so there were only three suspects – the other Australians on the ship. Had I packed it away somewhere? Again unlikely, as there aren’t too many places in a cabin to do that? Had I left it in the room after breakfast yesterday? That seemed the most likely, but how could I pantomime to our table waiter Vladimir that I was frantic to find a jar of Vegemite? I tried for a time, and then finalyy, the light bulb went on, Vladimir went to the kitchen and returned, clutching said jar of Vegemite! Success!
The rest of breakfast went smoothly and was an anticlimax.
Not too long after it was get ready for the day (not too hard, as it only meant putting my jacket on, placing the camera and bag around my neck and then swapping the cabin key for a pass) and within a few minutes the ship had docked and we were all ashore, walking through a sister ship to get there.
Our usual suspects, the gang of three (comprising 21 in all, but now with a member of the crew (one of the ladies from Reception) added in), we met our guide Inna and started off into St Petersburg. Unfortunately we caught the now obligatory Russian traffic jam and were slower than expected to reach the city area, having driven along the riverside.
We stopped outside the old port buildings to take photographs and saw a Russian wedding (apparently none in May) and then went to Hare Island to see the Peter and Paul Cathedral. This is the site of many royals’ funerals and graves (the graves are two metres UNDER the stones we see, which are hollow) and is magnificent inside. Being of recent design (after 1714), it is very different to the churches we had previously seen.
We then went on to a square in the town to see St Isaac’s church, and here we lost a member for a time (the crew member, not a tourist) and headed back to the ship for lunch. We did leave (deliberately) some of our party n town as they were doing their own thing for the afternoon. Traffic was again heavy and we weren’t back to the ship until 1330.
We went for a quick lunch. Cindy was mortified when I took the entrée plates to the collection area to speed up the delivery of the main course. Vladimir didn’t bat an eyelid.
We were ready by 1415, but others weren’t, so we didn’t leave until 1430 (in a minibus, as our numbers were depleted and we had four from the French-speaking group along) and again, we had slow progress into the city.
We were attending the Yusupov Palace tour, followed by a canal boat ride. We got to the Yusupov Palace, which while biggish outside, didn’t look too special. However, inside … well, just look at the photographs of St Petersburg 099 to 326 to get an idea of it. I’ll have to describe it in detail later.
We finally left, boarded a canal boat (after an altercation with the operator) and had a delightful but cold trip seeing St Petersburg by canal. It really is a totally different perspective and many of the buildings changed from an imposing look from the road to a breath-taking view from a canal. After just over an hour of conditions which made the inside of a freezer seem like a warm day, we were back onto a bus and returned to the ship.
Dinner was smooth (we finished off the bottle of wine) and not long after I retired to process my photos (a lot!), do some washing and write this blog. I finally finished at 2320 and was grateful to get to sleep.
The rest of breakfast went smoothly and was an anticlimax.
Not too long after it was get ready for the day (not too hard, as it only meant putting my jacket on, placing the camera and bag around my neck and then swapping the cabin key for a pass) and within a few minutes the ship had docked and we were all ashore, walking through a sister ship to get there.
Our usual suspects, the gang of three (comprising 21 in all, but now with a member of the crew (one of the ladies from Reception) added in), we met our guide Inna and started off into St Petersburg. Unfortunately we caught the now obligatory Russian traffic jam and were slower than expected to reach the city area, having driven along the riverside.
We stopped outside the old port buildings to take photographs and saw a Russian wedding (apparently none in May) and then went to Hare Island to see the Peter and Paul Cathedral. This is the site of many royals’ funerals and graves (the graves are two metres UNDER the stones we see, which are hollow) and is magnificent inside. Being of recent design (after 1714), it is very different to the churches we had previously seen.
We then went on to a square in the town to see St Isaac’s church, and here we lost a member for a time (the crew member, not a tourist) and headed back to the ship for lunch. We did leave (deliberately) some of our party n town as they were doing their own thing for the afternoon. Traffic was again heavy and we weren’t back to the ship until 1330.
We went for a quick lunch. Cindy was mortified when I took the entrée plates to the collection area to speed up the delivery of the main course. Vladimir didn’t bat an eyelid.
We were ready by 1415, but others weren’t, so we didn’t leave until 1430 (in a minibus, as our numbers were depleted and we had four from the French-speaking group along) and again, we had slow progress into the city.
We were attending the Yusupov Palace tour, followed by a canal boat ride. We got to the Yusupov Palace, which while biggish outside, didn’t look too special. However, inside … well, just look at the photographs of St Petersburg 099 to 326 to get an idea of it. I’ll have to describe it in detail later.
We finally left, boarded a canal boat (after an altercation with the operator) and had a delightful but cold trip seeing St Petersburg by canal. It really is a totally different perspective and many of the buildings changed from an imposing look from the road to a breath-taking view from a canal. After just over an hour of conditions which made the inside of a freezer seem like a warm day, we were back onto a bus and returned to the ship.
Dinner was smooth (we finished off the bottle of wine) and not long after I retired to process my photos (a lot!), do some washing and write this blog. I finally finished at 2320 and was grateful to get to sleep.
15 September
After being awake at 0645 I was finally up at 0705 – and realised that soon my days would be regimented differently as this is the last cruising day (although not the last day on the ship – there are two more days on the ship).
After the normal procedure I was at breakfast at 0730, but this time we sat at a different table. In the morning, the port rear table is next to a serving area and so people walk through and can bump the seats. Again breakfast was unremarkable, so I won’t make any remarks.
After breakfast was the “Russian Traditional Costume” in the Sky Bar, so I went along. The ladies from the kiosk had a range of different costumes and showed how hairstyle (one plait for single, tow plaits for married) and clothing played an important part in traditional culture. No-one asked how much traditional culture is around now. Then there was a dance and … after that I made an error of judgement and got up for spoon playing (can I say I was spooning with the guide?), an exercise in dexterity which showed me why I don’t dance. However, that was soon over and, when I went to do some writing up and photo work, I found we were nearly at our port for the day and I had to remember to put my key in, get my pass and be ready for disembarkation. This time it was only through one other ship at Mandrogi – the ship was the Volga Dream (say that slowly and don’t mispronounce the river’s name) and the carpet was covered with cloth lest we mere mortals mark it. I succumbed to temptation and WALKED OFF THE CLOTH. There were no dire consequences (at least not yet) so I continued on to the shore.
I walked around for a time with Steve, Jane, Cindy, Carol, Janet and Jasbir. We were trying to see an elk (or moose, as they are the same animal with different names around this area), but the corral was empty (I hope this doesn’t mean they had elk for tea last night!). Jasbir seemed to be a little confused and was pronouncing “monastery” as “monstrosity”, but was on the ball as far as not wanting to collect dust collectors. After the craft workshop (yes, could take photos but no flashing) I headed off to look around further, saw MORE craft shops, a mansion, a windmill and finally … the island with the zoo and fairy tale statues. To reach the fairy tales was a real ferry tale, as it was €6 both ways.
The ferry was operated by turning a capstan, which in turn pulled the hawser around a windlass and so winched (inched?) us over. A young Russian group on at the same time as if I would take a photo for them, but addressed me as “senõr”, so I don’t know how I sounded to them.
On the island, the statues were great, but of course I couldn’t read the fairy tales associated with them. Once at the “zoo”, I was able to see some different animals, the most different being a racoon. Unfortunately a few of the animals were exhibiting classic confined behaviour, so that spoiled it a little.
On the way back I was with the Japanese group off our ship and some of them wanted to help wind us over. I don’t think they actually made much of a difference, as they weren’t even puffing at the end.
On the way back, I saw my first Russian seesaw. I was so taken aback I had to photograph it (all right cynics, you think I just photograph everything anyway, but there is always a reason for it; if you read this and then view the pictures and think like me – a terrible thought – you will see what I want to convey) before continuing on for lunch. This was under cover and quite warm. We lined up to get our chicken shashlik with fried potatoes and mushroom (scraped to the side) and a range of salads (yes Fran, I am getting a wide range of vegetables and salads on the ship) and we could eat to musical accompaniment. In a surprising turn, the musicians then offered CDs of their performance for sale. Dessert was two varieties of pie slice, and you had to take both (no provision for just one).
After lunch I slowly went back to the ship, but still was there only half an hour before departure.
In the afternoon, after we glided out from our position (we were second of three when we left), there was a Russian song lesson. Needless to say, after our performance (English-speaking group), I am sure we would never be confused with either gypsies or Russian peasants.
The next few hours were whiled away watching the scenery go by and speculating on the state of industry which we were passing.
The Captain’s Dinner came up soon at 1930. I think we all expected he would dine with us, but after he and his entourage spoke (five times each), he left. Dinner was a more salutary affair as we knew now our trip together was ending soon, and friends made would either not be seen again or seen only after a long time. Photos of groups were taken and people were a little more reluctant to leave than they normally were.
The last business of the evening was the entertainment in the Sky Bar, compliments of the crew and some passengers. Surprise appearances were made by a cook who belted out some Cossack numbers, passenger ensembles who sang with gusto and one of the kiosk ladies who sang behind a dance combo. There was culture with a reading of Geothe and a comedy skit (in German, so we had to laugh when they laughed) and a finale with the guides spinning their numbers.
After this many people took leave and retired quietly, as we have busy days tomorrow and Wednesday and others wanted to make contact with new friends and leave details with them.
I went back to my cabin, processed the photos from the evening, did my blog and fell into the arms of Morpheus.
After the normal procedure I was at breakfast at 0730, but this time we sat at a different table. In the morning, the port rear table is next to a serving area and so people walk through and can bump the seats. Again breakfast was unremarkable, so I won’t make any remarks.
After breakfast was the “Russian Traditional Costume” in the Sky Bar, so I went along. The ladies from the kiosk had a range of different costumes and showed how hairstyle (one plait for single, tow plaits for married) and clothing played an important part in traditional culture. No-one asked how much traditional culture is around now. Then there was a dance and … after that I made an error of judgement and got up for spoon playing (can I say I was spooning with the guide?), an exercise in dexterity which showed me why I don’t dance. However, that was soon over and, when I went to do some writing up and photo work, I found we were nearly at our port for the day and I had to remember to put my key in, get my pass and be ready for disembarkation. This time it was only through one other ship at Mandrogi – the ship was the Volga Dream (say that slowly and don’t mispronounce the river’s name) and the carpet was covered with cloth lest we mere mortals mark it. I succumbed to temptation and WALKED OFF THE CLOTH. There were no dire consequences (at least not yet) so I continued on to the shore.
I walked around for a time with Steve, Jane, Cindy, Carol, Janet and Jasbir. We were trying to see an elk (or moose, as they are the same animal with different names around this area), but the corral was empty (I hope this doesn’t mean they had elk for tea last night!). Jasbir seemed to be a little confused and was pronouncing “monastery” as “monstrosity”, but was on the ball as far as not wanting to collect dust collectors. After the craft workshop (yes, could take photos but no flashing) I headed off to look around further, saw MORE craft shops, a mansion, a windmill and finally … the island with the zoo and fairy tale statues. To reach the fairy tales was a real ferry tale, as it was €6 both ways.
The ferry was operated by turning a capstan, which in turn pulled the hawser around a windlass and so winched (inched?) us over. A young Russian group on at the same time as if I would take a photo for them, but addressed me as “senõr”, so I don’t know how I sounded to them.
On the island, the statues were great, but of course I couldn’t read the fairy tales associated with them. Once at the “zoo”, I was able to see some different animals, the most different being a racoon. Unfortunately a few of the animals were exhibiting classic confined behaviour, so that spoiled it a little.
On the way back I was with the Japanese group off our ship and some of them wanted to help wind us over. I don’t think they actually made much of a difference, as they weren’t even puffing at the end.
On the way back, I saw my first Russian seesaw. I was so taken aback I had to photograph it (all right cynics, you think I just photograph everything anyway, but there is always a reason for it; if you read this and then view the pictures and think like me – a terrible thought – you will see what I want to convey) before continuing on for lunch. This was under cover and quite warm. We lined up to get our chicken shashlik with fried potatoes and mushroom (scraped to the side) and a range of salads (yes Fran, I am getting a wide range of vegetables and salads on the ship) and we could eat to musical accompaniment. In a surprising turn, the musicians then offered CDs of their performance for sale. Dessert was two varieties of pie slice, and you had to take both (no provision for just one).
After lunch I slowly went back to the ship, but still was there only half an hour before departure.
In the afternoon, after we glided out from our position (we were second of three when we left), there was a Russian song lesson. Needless to say, after our performance (English-speaking group), I am sure we would never be confused with either gypsies or Russian peasants.
The next few hours were whiled away watching the scenery go by and speculating on the state of industry which we were passing.
The Captain’s Dinner came up soon at 1930. I think we all expected he would dine with us, but after he and his entourage spoke (five times each), he left. Dinner was a more salutary affair as we knew now our trip together was ending soon, and friends made would either not be seen again or seen only after a long time. Photos of groups were taken and people were a little more reluctant to leave than they normally were.
The last business of the evening was the entertainment in the Sky Bar, compliments of the crew and some passengers. Surprise appearances were made by a cook who belted out some Cossack numbers, passenger ensembles who sang with gusto and one of the kiosk ladies who sang behind a dance combo. There was culture with a reading of Geothe and a comedy skit (in German, so we had to laugh when they laughed) and a finale with the guides spinning their numbers.
After this many people took leave and retired quietly, as we have busy days tomorrow and Wednesday and others wanted to make contact with new friends and leave details with them.
I went back to my cabin, processed the photos from the evening, did my blog and fell into the arms of Morpheus.
14 September
Ah well, dear reader, shipboard life has caught up with me. After rising at 0720, organising the laundry into dry (put away or wear), moist (lay on bed to finish) or still wet (put on hangers on the doors to dry) and the usual preparations, it was off to breakfast by the appointed starting time of 0800 and far too late for corner seat. We ended up sitting with a couple from Belgium. After breakfast it was away with the moist clothes (they had dried, courtesy of switching the heating up to full) and preparing for the day.
At 0930 there was a presentation by Elana from the kiosk on Lacquered Miniatures. It was most interesting and showed how they were made, as well as what way authenticity cold be checked. Immediately after this, I was approached by Belgium couple for suggestions about holidays in Australia (which I had to continue tomorrow as I ran out of time at Melbourne after Darwin, the Ghan to Alice Springs, Uluru, the Ghan to Adelaide, Indina Pacific to Perth and then Perth, Margaret River, Albany, Denmark, Walpole, Esperance, Norseman, Nullabor and whale-watching, the Great Ocean Road and Melbourne). After we had to leave because another presentation was on, I rang Fran while in the Panorama Bar and got all the latest news.
At 1230, a Marc Laenen gave a lecture on Russian Icons: Essence and Practice. He is a Belgium working on icons with UNESCO. Icons have a fundamental task in presenting holy images to Orthodox Christians as living images rather than just words and he presented their history in a very informative way.
Straight after, at 1330 it was lunch with Cindy, Carmel and Scott. No sooner had lunch finished than it was our final Russian language lesson and diploma at 1530. Rushing (not Russian) along, that finished to be followed by us arriving at Kizhi Island at 1700 and docking on the outside of three other ships. When we went ashore to tour parts of the island, I found out there have been
up to nine ships docked next to each other. While walking through the others, one had laid down cloth over the carpet so we mere mortals wouldn’t sully it.
We had our tour of Kizhi Island outdoor museum with our English-speaking guide and were shown the house, store, sauna, chapel (where we got a bell-ringing show), windmill, church (winter) and we saw the summer church and graveyard.
It was very cold outside, so as soon as the tour finished, we hurried back to the ship by 190. She was now immediately next to the quay. At1920 dinner was served and we all had a chat until we were almost forcibly evicted at 2145. I headed off to my cabin with some postcards I had purchased and posted one to the Lowrey and Stanley familes by 2200.
After copying and processing the photos and writing a partial blog, I was to bed by 2300.
At 0930 there was a presentation by Elana from the kiosk on Lacquered Miniatures. It was most interesting and showed how they were made, as well as what way authenticity cold be checked. Immediately after this, I was approached by Belgium couple for suggestions about holidays in Australia (which I had to continue tomorrow as I ran out of time at Melbourne after Darwin, the Ghan to Alice Springs, Uluru, the Ghan to Adelaide, Indina Pacific to Perth and then Perth, Margaret River, Albany, Denmark, Walpole, Esperance, Norseman, Nullabor and whale-watching, the Great Ocean Road and Melbourne). After we had to leave because another presentation was on, I rang Fran while in the Panorama Bar and got all the latest news.
At 1230, a Marc Laenen gave a lecture on Russian Icons: Essence and Practice. He is a Belgium working on icons with UNESCO. Icons have a fundamental task in presenting holy images to Orthodox Christians as living images rather than just words and he presented their history in a very informative way.
Straight after, at 1330 it was lunch with Cindy, Carmel and Scott. No sooner had lunch finished than it was our final Russian language lesson and diploma at 1530. Rushing (not Russian) along, that finished to be followed by us arriving at Kizhi Island at 1700 and docking on the outside of three other ships. When we went ashore to tour parts of the island, I found out there have been
up to nine ships docked next to each other. While walking through the others, one had laid down cloth over the carpet so we mere mortals wouldn’t sully it.
We had our tour of Kizhi Island outdoor museum with our English-speaking guide and were shown the house, store, sauna, chapel (where we got a bell-ringing show), windmill, church (winter) and we saw the summer church and graveyard.
It was very cold outside, so as soon as the tour finished, we hurried back to the ship by 190. She was now immediately next to the quay. At1920 dinner was served and we all had a chat until we were almost forcibly evicted at 2145. I headed off to my cabin with some postcards I had purchased and posted one to the Lowrey and Stanley familes by 2200.
After copying and processing the photos and writing a partial blog, I was to bed by 2300.
13 September
I was awake at 0720 but resisted the temptation to get up straight away. I finally gave into temptation by 0730 and got myself ready for breakfast.
Breakfast began at 0800 and this morning Scott was present but only for a short time. After the other three of us had finished breakfast it was nearly time to meet in the reading room. We had a meeting for 0930 about activities for St Petersburg and I had decided to do the tours to the Yusupov Palace and Canal Boat ride and then Pushkin – the palace of Catherine the Great and paid for them in US dollars as I have run short of Euros (I need to get some more in St Petersburg).
Our sailing was quite smooth and we arrived in Goritsy (early) at 1000. After the obligatory gauntlet of tourist kiosks (fewer of them here, and no obvious beggars this time), we left on a bus with our Russian-speaking-only guide and Katya to translate at 1015 for Kirillo. We arrived at the Kirillo-Belozersky monastery soon after and our tour headed out on foot. I thought the monastery was quite well preserved (partly because it was closed down so late and partly because it became a museum so soon after. It currently has three monks, but they live in a section we did not visit.
The main part of the museum is concerned with the icons from the church. Although we had explanations before, this was perhaps a little more complete because of the number of icons present and the explanations could be given in front of them. However, I can take just so much and by the time we finished the circuit I was just about “iconed out”. The ground floor of the museum had relics from the monk who founded the monastery and other items from its daily life, including weapons to defend it.
We had a look at the outside, and then through more material, this time of a more mundane variety – jars for storing, cooking and serving food and a large barrel for preparing beer. I asked about children drinking it and was told just teenagers, although I know in many older times, children were raised on beer because it didn’t have the health problems associated with water. Here I succumbed to temptation and purchased a musical bear (by blowing into it and covering up holes, a musical tune can be made – BUT NOT BY ME!).
We returned to the bus via a lakeshore walk. The monasteries were set up beside water to provide fish for food, but unlike some English monasteries, they didn’t divert the rivers/lakes under the monasteries to provide year-round fishing.
We were back to the bus by 1230 and returned via Goritsy onto the ship by just after 1300, despite shopping opportunities created by the many kiosks set up at the bus station. Very soon it was time for lunch at 1350 and the M/S Glushkov was away from dock at 1410, while we were still enjoying lunch..
After this I read and finally finished the second book I had got from the Reading Room. I won’t get another because there is limited time left, I can’t see the scenery at the same time and I ca’t spare the time to read at night while I should be writing this up.
At 1640 the English-speaking group se tout on our wheelhouse and engine-room tour. Only about twelve participated, but the bridge was interesting, for a number of reasons.
The ship was being controlled remotely by a river pilot, so the officer of the watch was really just making sure nothing went wrong. Controlled were triplicated for control of the ship, with a set each side for fine manoeuvering. The ship wad two sets of radar for checking other ships and th eshoreline. She was built in Germany in 1983, equipped with three large six cylinder Russian marine diesels which directly drive the screws, auxiliary engines for power, electric engines for bow thrusting propellers and heat exchangers for the cooling system and to heat water for the ship’s use. She is about 3500 tonnes, with 240 tonnes of diesel fuel and 60 tonnes of water. She can carry about 250 passengers and has 100 ship’s company (plus guides, receptionists and sales staff). Maximum speed is about 25 km/hr. Originally she sailed in the Ukraine on rivers, but then moved to the Moscow-St Petersburg run. She winters in a river berth south of here, where the river freezes but not as much at as St Petersburg. After getting all from the bridge, we went down to the engine room and had a quick lok around. Our tour of the boat then finished and I went back to the Panorama Bar where I got to chatting with a Belgium couple and showed them pictures of Australia. They seemed to like them (little did I know what was to follow). At this stage, quite of few of the others were off at a vodka-tasting party and I emulated what I thought they would be like while waiting for dinner, much to the amusement of the kiosk girls and a pair of older English ladies. I saw the slide show of Moscow-St Petersburg and decided to order one of the DVDs.
We had dinner and our now customary chat during and after dinner, so I didn’t get back to my cabin until 2130, washed out some clothes.
It was then a matter of transferring and processing photos, writing up this blog and then the sleep at some time after 2300.
Breakfast began at 0800 and this morning Scott was present but only for a short time. After the other three of us had finished breakfast it was nearly time to meet in the reading room. We had a meeting for 0930 about activities for St Petersburg and I had decided to do the tours to the Yusupov Palace and Canal Boat ride and then Pushkin – the palace of Catherine the Great and paid for them in US dollars as I have run short of Euros (I need to get some more in St Petersburg).
Our sailing was quite smooth and we arrived in Goritsy (early) at 1000. After the obligatory gauntlet of tourist kiosks (fewer of them here, and no obvious beggars this time), we left on a bus with our Russian-speaking-only guide and Katya to translate at 1015 for Kirillo. We arrived at the Kirillo-Belozersky monastery soon after and our tour headed out on foot. I thought the monastery was quite well preserved (partly because it was closed down so late and partly because it became a museum so soon after. It currently has three monks, but they live in a section we did not visit.
The main part of the museum is concerned with the icons from the church. Although we had explanations before, this was perhaps a little more complete because of the number of icons present and the explanations could be given in front of them. However, I can take just so much and by the time we finished the circuit I was just about “iconed out”. The ground floor of the museum had relics from the monk who founded the monastery and other items from its daily life, including weapons to defend it.
We had a look at the outside, and then through more material, this time of a more mundane variety – jars for storing, cooking and serving food and a large barrel for preparing beer. I asked about children drinking it and was told just teenagers, although I know in many older times, children were raised on beer because it didn’t have the health problems associated with water. Here I succumbed to temptation and purchased a musical bear (by blowing into it and covering up holes, a musical tune can be made – BUT NOT BY ME!).
We returned to the bus via a lakeshore walk. The monasteries were set up beside water to provide fish for food, but unlike some English monasteries, they didn’t divert the rivers/lakes under the monasteries to provide year-round fishing.
We were back to the bus by 1230 and returned via Goritsy onto the ship by just after 1300, despite shopping opportunities created by the many kiosks set up at the bus station. Very soon it was time for lunch at 1350 and the M/S Glushkov was away from dock at 1410, while we were still enjoying lunch..
After this I read and finally finished the second book I had got from the Reading Room. I won’t get another because there is limited time left, I can’t see the scenery at the same time and I ca’t spare the time to read at night while I should be writing this up.
At 1640 the English-speaking group se tout on our wheelhouse and engine-room tour. Only about twelve participated, but the bridge was interesting, for a number of reasons.
The ship was being controlled remotely by a river pilot, so the officer of the watch was really just making sure nothing went wrong. Controlled were triplicated for control of the ship, with a set each side for fine manoeuvering. The ship wad two sets of radar for checking other ships and th eshoreline. She was built in Germany in 1983, equipped with three large six cylinder Russian marine diesels which directly drive the screws, auxiliary engines for power, electric engines for bow thrusting propellers and heat exchangers for the cooling system and to heat water for the ship’s use. She is about 3500 tonnes, with 240 tonnes of diesel fuel and 60 tonnes of water. She can carry about 250 passengers and has 100 ship’s company (plus guides, receptionists and sales staff). Maximum speed is about 25 km/hr. Originally she sailed in the Ukraine on rivers, but then moved to the Moscow-St Petersburg run. She winters in a river berth south of here, where the river freezes but not as much at as St Petersburg. After getting all from the bridge, we went down to the engine room and had a quick lok around. Our tour of the boat then finished and I went back to the Panorama Bar where I got to chatting with a Belgium couple and showed them pictures of Australia. They seemed to like them (little did I know what was to follow). At this stage, quite of few of the others were off at a vodka-tasting party and I emulated what I thought they would be like while waiting for dinner, much to the amusement of the kiosk girls and a pair of older English ladies. I saw the slide show of Moscow-St Petersburg and decided to order one of the DVDs.
We had dinner and our now customary chat during and after dinner, so I didn’t get back to my cabin until 2130, washed out some clothes.
It was then a matter of transferring and processing photos, writing up this blog and then the sleep at some time after 2300.
12 September
We were now into our first full day on the water, so I was awake at 0645 – but, realising that breakfast wasn’t until 0730 and was only a minute away, I deferred getting up until 0710. After the normal preparations, I was still able to be at breakfast by 0730. Cindy was up too, but Carmel arrived later on her own – Scott wasn’t well, apparently suffering the effects of a virus not fully discarded early before they had left. Again breakfast could be a leisurely affair, as the only urgent appointment soon was a lifejacket drill.
I was back in the cabin by 0830, and the life jacket drill started at 0840. Most people were out within a few moments and all within a few minutes. We had our jackets tested by three different people, and then our photographs taken. By 0850 we were given the all-clear and had to re-stow the jackets and then resume normal shipboard life.
But normal ship-board life is (or can be) high powered. By 0900 we had a lecture on Russian Art objects from the staff of the Art Kiosk – this was a short introduction, a video presentation (thank goodness it wasn’t a PowerPoint show or I would have gone running from the room, screaming and foaming at the mouth). It was interesting (and narrated in English) and it finished too soon at 0945.
We docked at Uglich at 1100 and were quickly off the ship (through our sister ship, tied up first). We were met by our English-speaking guide at the dock and walked into town. Uglich is a city of 40 000 (but looks smaller as the inhabitants live in suburbs) and we entered it through a gauntlet of tourist souvenir shops. There was no other way to get in, so we were at their mercy. Fortunately they were no too predatory. We walked through the … Kremlin, as it is the fortress or centre, and so EVERY Russian town of any size or history has one. The market square was quite large, but deserted (presumably as all the traders were out to meet the tourists). WE then looked over a … church – and then another church. The last building guided to was a prince’s palace. It seems incongruous that for a country whose church population was so persecuted for over seventy years, there are so many churches and the tourist industry seems so geared towards them.
After this we had free time to wander around, but Scott became unwell and headed back to the ship fairly quickly. I went looking for a supermarket (I can now drink black tea but it needs sugar and I cannot yet find a supply of sugar cubes (other than by pilfering them one by one from the ship’s tables) but couldn’t find one. On my way back to the ship I saw and recognised the lady I had sat next to in the bus to our ill-fated excursion to the Russian Folk Dancing. She and her friend were lost – because the line of souvenir kiosks had the same sign at the exit and entry, they had entered it and become disoriented. I walked them back to their ship (they were on a Collette Tour) and passed through it to get to my ship.
We started lunch and during our first course the ship cast off and we were on our way. After lunch I did my first lot of washing on the ship (clothes, not me – I had been showering!) and hung them to dry. The ship offers a laundry service, but the cost is more than the cost of the clothes I am wearing.
During the afternoon we entered one of the reservoirs we sail along and I decided to ring Marilla and David, as it was their glowing description of the voyage that convinced me to undertake some of these tours. Marilla answered and was amazed that I was calling from the ship. Then I met a young Dutch couple who had honeymooned in Jamaica, followed by a Danish couple who sailed around the world and laid over six months in Townsville/Cairns. Then it was another language class, which I am ashamed to admit I only listed to with one ear as I was trying to process photos before I forgot (and trying to minimise time in the evening so I could write up my blog (sadly, another resolve not met). After this, I again saw the young Dutch couple and showed them Dutch place names in Australia (they were not aware of the connection between Australia and Holland.
By now we were well and truly out on the reservoir and the motion of the ship was noticeable. While waiting for the dining room to open, an elderly Austrian lady thought she would be seasick, so I told her that by the time dinner was over, we should be nearly out of the reservoir and the motion would become less.
After this it was time for dinner, with Cindy, Carmel and Scott. By this time Scott had given in and seen the doctor, been given antibiotics and other medication and after a short attempt to dine, had goen back to his cabin and Carmel went with him. Vladimir took their meals to their cabin.
After dinner was another music performance in Sky Bar, indispersed with attempts by Cindy to fly a coaster through the crowd and Steve to land a coaster behind a notice on the bar door. Steve’s trick of spinning a full glass without spilling anything amazed all those around, sho he taught a few others. After seeing how they were going astray, I went off, did my photos and summarised my blog and was in bed by 2230.
The ship was not rocking by then.
I was back in the cabin by 0830, and the life jacket drill started at 0840. Most people were out within a few moments and all within a few minutes. We had our jackets tested by three different people, and then our photographs taken. By 0850 we were given the all-clear and had to re-stow the jackets and then resume normal shipboard life.
But normal ship-board life is (or can be) high powered. By 0900 we had a lecture on Russian Art objects from the staff of the Art Kiosk – this was a short introduction, a video presentation (thank goodness it wasn’t a PowerPoint show or I would have gone running from the room, screaming and foaming at the mouth). It was interesting (and narrated in English) and it finished too soon at 0945.
We docked at Uglich at 1100 and were quickly off the ship (through our sister ship, tied up first). We were met by our English-speaking guide at the dock and walked into town. Uglich is a city of 40 000 (but looks smaller as the inhabitants live in suburbs) and we entered it through a gauntlet of tourist souvenir shops. There was no other way to get in, so we were at their mercy. Fortunately they were no too predatory. We walked through the … Kremlin, as it is the fortress or centre, and so EVERY Russian town of any size or history has one. The market square was quite large, but deserted (presumably as all the traders were out to meet the tourists). WE then looked over a … church – and then another church. The last building guided to was a prince’s palace. It seems incongruous that for a country whose church population was so persecuted for over seventy years, there are so many churches and the tourist industry seems so geared towards them.
After this we had free time to wander around, but Scott became unwell and headed back to the ship fairly quickly. I went looking for a supermarket (I can now drink black tea but it needs sugar and I cannot yet find a supply of sugar cubes (other than by pilfering them one by one from the ship’s tables) but couldn’t find one. On my way back to the ship I saw and recognised the lady I had sat next to in the bus to our ill-fated excursion to the Russian Folk Dancing. She and her friend were lost – because the line of souvenir kiosks had the same sign at the exit and entry, they had entered it and become disoriented. I walked them back to their ship (they were on a Collette Tour) and passed through it to get to my ship.
We started lunch and during our first course the ship cast off and we were on our way. After lunch I did my first lot of washing on the ship (clothes, not me – I had been showering!) and hung them to dry. The ship offers a laundry service, but the cost is more than the cost of the clothes I am wearing.
During the afternoon we entered one of the reservoirs we sail along and I decided to ring Marilla and David, as it was their glowing description of the voyage that convinced me to undertake some of these tours. Marilla answered and was amazed that I was calling from the ship. Then I met a young Dutch couple who had honeymooned in Jamaica, followed by a Danish couple who sailed around the world and laid over six months in Townsville/Cairns. Then it was another language class, which I am ashamed to admit I only listed to with one ear as I was trying to process photos before I forgot (and trying to minimise time in the evening so I could write up my blog (sadly, another resolve not met). After this, I again saw the young Dutch couple and showed them Dutch place names in Australia (they were not aware of the connection between Australia and Holland.
By now we were well and truly out on the reservoir and the motion of the ship was noticeable. While waiting for the dining room to open, an elderly Austrian lady thought she would be seasick, so I told her that by the time dinner was over, we should be nearly out of the reservoir and the motion would become less.
After this it was time for dinner, with Cindy, Carmel and Scott. By this time Scott had given in and seen the doctor, been given antibiotics and other medication and after a short attempt to dine, had goen back to his cabin and Carmel went with him. Vladimir took their meals to their cabin.
After dinner was another music performance in Sky Bar, indispersed with attempts by Cindy to fly a coaster through the crowd and Steve to land a coaster behind a notice on the bar door. Steve’s trick of spinning a full glass without spilling anything amazed all those around, sho he taught a few others. After seeing how they were going astray, I went off, did my photos and summarised my blog and was in bed by 2230.
The ship was not rocking by then.
11 September
Today I started the new routine aboard the M/S Academian Glushkov. I was up at 0630 and showered and dressed. I can’t say I cast the bedclothes aside as I very slowly got up after the alarm woke me. Unfortunately my routine and the announcements coincided in me being in the shower as the announcements came over, so I heard nothing.
I was in the dining room for breakfast by 0700 and Cindy was already there. Scot and Carmel arrived not too long after and we had a good but too brief breakfast as we had to be aboard the bus before 0800. After finishing preparations, I was out by 0745 and waiting for the bus. Unlike yesterday, the weather was showery and cool, so when I got the second seat on the passenger side, it wasn’t too much of a disappointment.
We had a slow trip to outside the New Maiden convent and cemetery, and Cindy and I were able to recognise the surroundings and the route, but the cemetery guard was not on duty at the second gate. After we passed by, we continued around the to the observation point outside the Moscow University. We had stopped at toilets (but I found out later they were squat, so I didn’t mind missing that experience) early, but at the observation point the weather was cold and blustery, so after the obligatory photo-taking, everyone was quickly back in the bus and we were off to Red Square.
Here the bus had to leave us because of the popularity of the area, so we walked from our drop-off point to outside St Basil’s. Here we had a short run-down of the history from our guide (same as yesterday) and, after being pointed out the GUM store, we were off on our own. I decided to try an ATM, after the one near the ship rejected my card. Low and behold, no problem at all, so I got some Russian roubles and was given my account balance in AUD and roubles. Just enough left to last me until my next pension payment and then I have to transfer funds between accounts (but I need Ineternt access for that, and there isn’t any on the ship). I had a good look around the GUM, which I would describe as a large arcade or mall, with different specialty shops. After a lot of photos, including the Apple shop, I decided to buy something (to say I had) so an ice cream fitted the bill (at forty roubles, about A$2.50). By then it was time to head back for the bus meeting point, so once enough of us had arrived, we walked under the road, past a series of souvenir stalls (funny about that), onto the bus and headed back to the ship. The traffic was a lot less than before, along now familiar roads (and passing the Soviet Hotel, the guide gave us a run-down on it – it was built as a showpiece in the 1950s and has since been restored to the same standard, and is seen as a boutique place to stay), and we were back to the ship well before noon.
As our ship was on the outside next to a sister ship, we were leaving the dock before they were. I asked the reception staff if we would have streamers and music and people crying, but alas, they said, none of these. We would just leave. At the appointed time I went to the gangway and watched. Some of the crew had family seeing them off and it looked like the doctor had his wife and small child seeing him off. Many smiles and such until he saw daddy really was leaving and then there were a few tears as we saw the gangway raised (okay, pulled up and stowed to the side), the holding hawsers cast off and the M/S Gluchkov gently and slowly departed the Northern River Port of Moscow.
It was soon time for lunch and, being a creature of habit, I sat in the same seat as before. Cindy did too, as did Scott and Carmel, and so we started what was to become a regular dining and chatting experience. It was a nice experience to be gliding along the canal (until we actually hit the Volga River) and watch the scenery from a warm and dry location, with good company while taking time over a leisurely lunch.
The afternoon passed smoothly as we progressed along and soon (too soon, as we had all lingered over lunch) it was time for our first Russian language lesson. We went through the basics (alphabet, pronunciations, some simple words) and were given homework of spelling our names in Russian for the next class. By the time I had done a bit of reading, a little wandering and some sightseeing, it was time to head off to the Sky Bar (the large lounge at the aft of the ship, on deck five) for the Welcome Reception. Here, apart from a shot of vodka (and a shot in the arm, once I had finished the shot of vodka), we were introduced to the main crew members we would meet during our voyage. It went well except that all the introductions were in Russian, English, German (for the Austrians aboard), French and Dutch.
After that it was dinner (funny how life very quickly revolves around food once the other mundane things of life aren’t important). Our steward is Vladimir, who is very attentive (but not overly so) and knows now what food I can’t eat. I also got a card from Katja saying I am allergic to seafood, fish and mushrooms, so I will keep that for the train. Time went very quickly, so no sooner was dinner over than we all retired to the Sky Bar for Russian Folk music, which actually ended up being a selection of classical music from composers who had Russian influences in their works. The musicians were excellent, and the piano accordionist we had during the Russian lesson ended up playing a cello during the performance. When the performance was over, I met Steve (an American who had worked in Australia and now works for a wine company), his mother (Jane) and three of her friends (Carol, Janet and her husband) – all are travelling together as the three women work together.
After that I headed down to my cabin, transferred all the photos I had taken, wrote a quick summary of the day (I ended up writing the blog much later in the week, as I was too tired at that time) and was off to sleep.
I was in the dining room for breakfast by 0700 and Cindy was already there. Scot and Carmel arrived not too long after and we had a good but too brief breakfast as we had to be aboard the bus before 0800. After finishing preparations, I was out by 0745 and waiting for the bus. Unlike yesterday, the weather was showery and cool, so when I got the second seat on the passenger side, it wasn’t too much of a disappointment.
We had a slow trip to outside the New Maiden convent and cemetery, and Cindy and I were able to recognise the surroundings and the route, but the cemetery guard was not on duty at the second gate. After we passed by, we continued around the to the observation point outside the Moscow University. We had stopped at toilets (but I found out later they were squat, so I didn’t mind missing that experience) early, but at the observation point the weather was cold and blustery, so after the obligatory photo-taking, everyone was quickly back in the bus and we were off to Red Square.
Here the bus had to leave us because of the popularity of the area, so we walked from our drop-off point to outside St Basil’s. Here we had a short run-down of the history from our guide (same as yesterday) and, after being pointed out the GUM store, we were off on our own. I decided to try an ATM, after the one near the ship rejected my card. Low and behold, no problem at all, so I got some Russian roubles and was given my account balance in AUD and roubles. Just enough left to last me until my next pension payment and then I have to transfer funds between accounts (but I need Ineternt access for that, and there isn’t any on the ship). I had a good look around the GUM, which I would describe as a large arcade or mall, with different specialty shops. After a lot of photos, including the Apple shop, I decided to buy something (to say I had) so an ice cream fitted the bill (at forty roubles, about A$2.50). By then it was time to head back for the bus meeting point, so once enough of us had arrived, we walked under the road, past a series of souvenir stalls (funny about that), onto the bus and headed back to the ship. The traffic was a lot less than before, along now familiar roads (and passing the Soviet Hotel, the guide gave us a run-down on it – it was built as a showpiece in the 1950s and has since been restored to the same standard, and is seen as a boutique place to stay), and we were back to the ship well before noon.
As our ship was on the outside next to a sister ship, we were leaving the dock before they were. I asked the reception staff if we would have streamers and music and people crying, but alas, they said, none of these. We would just leave. At the appointed time I went to the gangway and watched. Some of the crew had family seeing them off and it looked like the doctor had his wife and small child seeing him off. Many smiles and such until he saw daddy really was leaving and then there were a few tears as we saw the gangway raised (okay, pulled up and stowed to the side), the holding hawsers cast off and the M/S Gluchkov gently and slowly departed the Northern River Port of Moscow.
It was soon time for lunch and, being a creature of habit, I sat in the same seat as before. Cindy did too, as did Scott and Carmel, and so we started what was to become a regular dining and chatting experience. It was a nice experience to be gliding along the canal (until we actually hit the Volga River) and watch the scenery from a warm and dry location, with good company while taking time over a leisurely lunch.
The afternoon passed smoothly as we progressed along and soon (too soon, as we had all lingered over lunch) it was time for our first Russian language lesson. We went through the basics (alphabet, pronunciations, some simple words) and were given homework of spelling our names in Russian for the next class. By the time I had done a bit of reading, a little wandering and some sightseeing, it was time to head off to the Sky Bar (the large lounge at the aft of the ship, on deck five) for the Welcome Reception. Here, apart from a shot of vodka (and a shot in the arm, once I had finished the shot of vodka), we were introduced to the main crew members we would meet during our voyage. It went well except that all the introductions were in Russian, English, German (for the Austrians aboard), French and Dutch.
After that it was dinner (funny how life very quickly revolves around food once the other mundane things of life aren’t important). Our steward is Vladimir, who is very attentive (but not overly so) and knows now what food I can’t eat. I also got a card from Katja saying I am allergic to seafood, fish and mushrooms, so I will keep that for the train. Time went very quickly, so no sooner was dinner over than we all retired to the Sky Bar for Russian Folk music, which actually ended up being a selection of classical music from composers who had Russian influences in their works. The musicians were excellent, and the piano accordionist we had during the Russian lesson ended up playing a cello during the performance. When the performance was over, I met Steve (an American who had worked in Australia and now works for a wine company), his mother (Jane) and three of her friends (Carol, Janet and her husband) – all are travelling together as the three women work together.
After that I headed down to my cabin, transferred all the photos I had taken, wrote a quick summary of the day (I ended up writing the blog much later in the week, as I was too tired at that time) and was off to sleep.
10 September
Today, my first day aboard a cruising ship (okay, a river cruiser, but it is on the water, it is more than overnight and we are going to travel nearly 700 km as the crow flies and a lot more by water), I woke at 0615 and promptly went on to snooze mode until 0630 – as breakfast was only one floor and twenty steps away and I didn’t have to pack a suitcase and leave it outside the door before breakfast.
Breakfast was a very good spread, including a range of fresh and prepared cereals, breads (fresh and toasted – YEAH!), meats, cheese, hot foods and of course juices and hot tea and coffee. I had breakfast with one who I had dinner with the night before, Cindy.
We chatted and went through some speculation as to the progress of the day, then headed off to prepare for a great adventure, as neither of us (and few of the others on the ship) had been to Russia before.
At 0815 a group of us were ready, out at the bus and, as soon as we found out which bus, boarded it ready to go. Cindy sat in the sea opposite, with Leonie and Amy behind. There was nothing like a full busload so we could, in general, occupy a double seat each. Our guide, Anastasia, was introduced by Katya, our boat guide and mentor. And so, at 0840, we set off.
We travelled into Moscow city via the St Petersburg-Moscow Highway. Our progress was generally slow, but moving, which didn’t worry most of us as we were sightseeing, the weather was fine and quite a few were taking photographs.
We arrived in at the Kremlin and were given our instructions about what we had to leave on the bus and what we could take. In general, we could carry what we needed (or may need, if the weather turned inclement) and then we had to queue to enter via the metal detectors. At this stage, some of the party had to find and use toilets, so I was left holding our number (my number was well and truly up) until Anastasia returned with the rest of the party.
We then entered. Despite all we had heard and seen, the police at the entry were very friendly and the guards on the metal detectors were quite jovial. After this, the actual introduction to the Kremlin commenced.
We entered via the Kutafya Tower and into the Kremlin proper via a ramp which is over what was the Neglinnaya River and is now the Alexandrovsky Gardens. Once through the Trinity Gate Tower, we were officially in the Kremlin. Although the government buildings are large and imposing, the Assumption Cathedral, the Ivan the Great Bell Tower, the Tsar Cannon and Bell and the Great Kremlin palace were the sights which really made me stop and look. We got the story and history of the churches and the Kremlin (summarised as being the original source of the settlement, fortified along the present lines, then becoming the centre as Moscow developed as the capital and still being the “spiritual” capital even when the capital was moved to St Petersburg. After Soviet governments came, it again became the centre of government and the country) and then had a look at he icons in Annunciation Cathedral. These were wonderful (no pictures allowed) but the singing by the four-man choir was stunning. I couldn’t resist a CD of them singing, so I got an autographed copy.
Memo to self: most things are priced in USD, € and roubles. The best price seems to be in €, so next time (?) make sure I have plenty of € with me.
After a fairly good look around, we left to get back on the bus, after being surrounded by many sellers of books on Moscow and sets of postcards. Prices were reasonable, but there wasn’t that much I was after. However I did note that there is a Metro station right near the public entrance to the Kremlin, at the library (for further visits).
Once back on the bus we headed off for the Novodevichy Convent. Here, although admission was part of the tour, there was another 80 roubles to take photos. From my now limited experience, this seems to be as good a source of income as the entry fees, if not better. We had a good look around, but the summer church was already closed and in the winter church we were only permitted in the vestibule (and weren’t supposed to take photos of the church, but I didn’t find out until too late).
We went around further and entered the chamber that Sofia, sister of Peter the Great, was exiled in. Here we were treated to another choir, whose choral work for us included the Volga Boat song. The singing was really good but, to my ear, not quite the equal of the earlier choir.
We left there and drove along beside the New Maiden Cemetery, which we were unable to visit and to which the tour for the afternoon had been cancelled.
After this the bus headed back to the ship, with further points of interest drawn to our attention. We arrived back at 1400, just as lunch was being served. Over lunch Cindy and I resolved to try to visit the cemetery by public transport, after getting money (me, from the ATM) and shopping for a few things.
By just after 1500 we walked along to the ATM and the supermarket. My confidence in the buses we were using suddenly plummeted as we saw two men replacing the brake shoes on a bus by the side of the entrance road to the North River Docks.
At the ATM, the machine wouldn’t allow me to get any money (transaction declined by your bank), but I believe it was because I was using a debit card rather than a credit card. However, I held out hope for the future. In the supermarket, things looked up. Although Cindy couldn’t get batteries, vodka and bottled water were well priced. I managed to find tea bags, but couldn’t find cube sugar (both of which I am after for the trains – I can now drink black tea, but only with sugar –I’ll see what havoc it plays with my sugar levels later). Back to the ship with these (note: brakes still being replaced on bus with 068 as the numerals in the plate), dropped them off and we were off, heading to the Metro Station. Along the way (at the entrance actually) Cindy was able to find batteries and then we entered the Metro Station.
Problem one: ticket machines out of order, so had to queue. Problem two; long queues, but at least they were moving quickly. Problem three; after having thirty roubles handy for a two trip ticket, at the last minute I noticed 19 appearing somewhere, so quickly had to get another ten rouble note out. At the window I indicated two (two fingers up – NOT the RUDE fingers, just in case the Russian sensibilities are the same as ours) and handed over the notes. I got the ticket printed for two trips and got two roubles change, so Cindy had no problem (just did the same and the ticket seller did the same). Then down to the station and only one side had a list of names, so we took the train on that side (this station is the last on the line). A quick referral to the metro map and we were able to work out the station to get out at to change to the Red Line. It was a matter of following the signs in the correct colour and, voila, we were on the right platform. By looking at the last name in the list we chose the correct direction, caught a train (only two minutes gaps between trains) and then got off at the correct station. In the plaza area, after getting our bearings, I espied a sign indicating the convent – so we headed off in that direction. Down the street the convent was visible, so after taking further bearings we turned off and headed straight to the cemetery. The correct gate was found and … the cemetery closed at 1700! The guard pointed it out to us even though in the Lonely Planet guide book on Moscow said it closed at 1800.
Dejected, unwanted and feeling in a grave mood, we headed back to the Metro Station. Along the way we came across a person who nearly stumbled in the gutter while talking on his mobile. He had a brown bag which hit the gutter at one point and suddenly brown foaming liquid poured out. He was totally drunk and had just smashed a bottle of beer in the bag. Despite warning him, he was too far gone to understand. We soldiered on and caught the train(s) back to the North River Port without any hassle at all.
I had been sure to make sure I got back before 1815 to catch the tour bus for the evening, so went by the parked buses to check if they were already loaded. It was raining and. Although there was a guide with one, there wasn’t with any other. I went onto the ship (ours was in the outboard position at this time, ready for departure tomorrow) to drop my books off at the cabin and found Katya there, telling me the bus was ready to go. Apparently the bus had gone down to another ship to pick up passengers and that was why I hadn’t seen it. I quickly boarded the bus, found the only vacant seat (next to a lady from Billings, Montana) and the bus was off to the Russian Folk Dancing show.
Now at this stage, dear reader, let me tell you a secret. Things which had run smoothly to this point, ceased to run smoothly.
The bus drove off, up to the main road (and past the bus still having its brakes repaired) and then into the traffic. At this time (1820), all seemed well – for about one minute, for as soon as we entered the main road the traffic stopped. It took many minutes before we reached an off ramp a few kilometres further on, and once on the ramp we stopped. After about twenty minutes we had got to the entrance to the other road. Here a lot of entertainment ensued, with most passengers on the left side looking down at cars which almost disappeared between the bus and other traffic. After another twenty minutes we were on the road but going nowhere quickly. Now, at just after 1900, it looked as though we may be late to the theatre, but everyone was hoping it was an accident or diversion which was slowing us down. But, alas, it was jus the Moscow traffic, compounded by the wet weather. Time marched on, but our bus didn’t. People became concerned that we might miss the 1930 start, but then we were told, no, it starts at 2000. Now as 2000 approached, came and departed, concerns were being heightened.
As anyone in control of people will tell you, they must be kept busy and happy. Otherwise, two things can happen – divine discontent, which will lead everyone on to unsurpassed heights, or rebellion, as Bligh (on the Bounty), Captain Quigg (on the Caine) and the tour guide on our bus found out. It started with one asking, well, how far are we away, when will we get there and when did the show actually start. The answers: we are not too far away, but because of the traffic it is not clear when we will arrive, the show starts at 2000 (Easter is not the only moveable feast) and the agents were wondering where we, and the other buses, were. Unfortunately this served only to add fuel to the fire as it seemed we knew less than before. The driver turned off into a side street and got a clear run … for about two hundred metres! Then the traffic jam resumed. By now camps were forming and splinter groups were being created. Some wanted to turn around and go back, as we would miss quite a bit. Others wanted to go on, but wanted more information. My fellow travellers wanted to know would we be back in time for our evening meal, scheduled for 2200. The next piece of information floored us – those from the other ship had already had tea and weren’t concerned about their evening meal. The solidarity group which had formed a few moments before suddenly shattered.
Without Henry Kissinger, negotiations went roughly. The passengers were now revolting (but some were still nice) and wanted more information and then to make a definitive decision. After a few mobile phone calls, an offer was made – keep going, and we should get to see half the show, and we would get a fifty per cent refund. This was not made loudly or clearly enough for those at the back to hear, so now other groups were appearing and wanting other solutions. After a short time when it looked as though the bus may be hijacked and driven back to the ship, the offer was repeated more clearly and then only two camps existed; go back now and get the whole price returned or go on and get half back. A head count was made and seventeen out of forty-one wanted to go on, so our guide, evidently not a mathematics graduate, said as more wanted to go on, we would. By the time people realised she wasn’t correct (I didn’t want to buy in as the whole thing was, to quote another passenger, a “great adventure”), we were at the venue. The bus stopped and we then had to walk up. Unfortunately the guide hadn’t told us where to enter, so with our heads down to avoid the driving rain, we missed the entrance and had to walk back. At 2055, we entered the theatre. No, to be more specific, seven of us entered the theatre and the rest were forcibly held back and then directed through another entrance.
The performance was stunning. The costumes were very good, the projected backgrounds were great, but the dancing was unbelievable. Spinning, dancing, kicking and rising and falling – all at the same time. At 2145 it finished.
However, our little epic had not. One of our number rushed outside to board the bus, only to find that the bus wasn’t there, but a torrential downpour was. A few minutes later she was back inside, wringing her shawl out on the floor. She was not pleased!
By 2200 we walked down to the bus. In an anticlimax, we started off into a traffic jam which cleared within a minute. We were back at the ship by 2245. The first question was, will we get a meal. And, all credit to the ship staff, the answer was yes. Our steward, Vladimir, even fixed up a special table for all of us who returned with mutiny or dissatisfaction on our minds.
The meal proved an anti-climax as we swapped tales and finally left the dining room at 0010. I decided I would, for one day, wait until later to write up my diary. After an epic day in many respects, I went to bed and to sleep.
Breakfast was a very good spread, including a range of fresh and prepared cereals, breads (fresh and toasted – YEAH!), meats, cheese, hot foods and of course juices and hot tea and coffee. I had breakfast with one who I had dinner with the night before, Cindy.
We chatted and went through some speculation as to the progress of the day, then headed off to prepare for a great adventure, as neither of us (and few of the others on the ship) had been to Russia before.
At 0815 a group of us were ready, out at the bus and, as soon as we found out which bus, boarded it ready to go. Cindy sat in the sea opposite, with Leonie and Amy behind. There was nothing like a full busload so we could, in general, occupy a double seat each. Our guide, Anastasia, was introduced by Katya, our boat guide and mentor. And so, at 0840, we set off.
We travelled into Moscow city via the St Petersburg-Moscow Highway. Our progress was generally slow, but moving, which didn’t worry most of us as we were sightseeing, the weather was fine and quite a few were taking photographs.
We arrived in at the Kremlin and were given our instructions about what we had to leave on the bus and what we could take. In general, we could carry what we needed (or may need, if the weather turned inclement) and then we had to queue to enter via the metal detectors. At this stage, some of the party had to find and use toilets, so I was left holding our number (my number was well and truly up) until Anastasia returned with the rest of the party.
We then entered. Despite all we had heard and seen, the police at the entry were very friendly and the guards on the metal detectors were quite jovial. After this, the actual introduction to the Kremlin commenced.
We entered via the Kutafya Tower and into the Kremlin proper via a ramp which is over what was the Neglinnaya River and is now the Alexandrovsky Gardens. Once through the Trinity Gate Tower, we were officially in the Kremlin. Although the government buildings are large and imposing, the Assumption Cathedral, the Ivan the Great Bell Tower, the Tsar Cannon and Bell and the Great Kremlin palace were the sights which really made me stop and look. We got the story and history of the churches and the Kremlin (summarised as being the original source of the settlement, fortified along the present lines, then becoming the centre as Moscow developed as the capital and still being the “spiritual” capital even when the capital was moved to St Petersburg. After Soviet governments came, it again became the centre of government and the country) and then had a look at he icons in Annunciation Cathedral. These were wonderful (no pictures allowed) but the singing by the four-man choir was stunning. I couldn’t resist a CD of them singing, so I got an autographed copy.
Memo to self: most things are priced in USD, € and roubles. The best price seems to be in €, so next time (?) make sure I have plenty of € with me.
After a fairly good look around, we left to get back on the bus, after being surrounded by many sellers of books on Moscow and sets of postcards. Prices were reasonable, but there wasn’t that much I was after. However I did note that there is a Metro station right near the public entrance to the Kremlin, at the library (for further visits).
Once back on the bus we headed off for the Novodevichy Convent. Here, although admission was part of the tour, there was another 80 roubles to take photos. From my now limited experience, this seems to be as good a source of income as the entry fees, if not better. We had a good look around, but the summer church was already closed and in the winter church we were only permitted in the vestibule (and weren’t supposed to take photos of the church, but I didn’t find out until too late).
We went around further and entered the chamber that Sofia, sister of Peter the Great, was exiled in. Here we were treated to another choir, whose choral work for us included the Volga Boat song. The singing was really good but, to my ear, not quite the equal of the earlier choir.
We left there and drove along beside the New Maiden Cemetery, which we were unable to visit and to which the tour for the afternoon had been cancelled.
After this the bus headed back to the ship, with further points of interest drawn to our attention. We arrived back at 1400, just as lunch was being served. Over lunch Cindy and I resolved to try to visit the cemetery by public transport, after getting money (me, from the ATM) and shopping for a few things.
By just after 1500 we walked along to the ATM and the supermarket. My confidence in the buses we were using suddenly plummeted as we saw two men replacing the brake shoes on a bus by the side of the entrance road to the North River Docks.
At the ATM, the machine wouldn’t allow me to get any money (transaction declined by your bank), but I believe it was because I was using a debit card rather than a credit card. However, I held out hope for the future. In the supermarket, things looked up. Although Cindy couldn’t get batteries, vodka and bottled water were well priced. I managed to find tea bags, but couldn’t find cube sugar (both of which I am after for the trains – I can now drink black tea, but only with sugar –I’ll see what havoc it plays with my sugar levels later). Back to the ship with these (note: brakes still being replaced on bus with 068 as the numerals in the plate), dropped them off and we were off, heading to the Metro Station. Along the way (at the entrance actually) Cindy was able to find batteries and then we entered the Metro Station.
Problem one: ticket machines out of order, so had to queue. Problem two; long queues, but at least they were moving quickly. Problem three; after having thirty roubles handy for a two trip ticket, at the last minute I noticed 19 appearing somewhere, so quickly had to get another ten rouble note out. At the window I indicated two (two fingers up – NOT the RUDE fingers, just in case the Russian sensibilities are the same as ours) and handed over the notes. I got the ticket printed for two trips and got two roubles change, so Cindy had no problem (just did the same and the ticket seller did the same). Then down to the station and only one side had a list of names, so we took the train on that side (this station is the last on the line). A quick referral to the metro map and we were able to work out the station to get out at to change to the Red Line. It was a matter of following the signs in the correct colour and, voila, we were on the right platform. By looking at the last name in the list we chose the correct direction, caught a train (only two minutes gaps between trains) and then got off at the correct station. In the plaza area, after getting our bearings, I espied a sign indicating the convent – so we headed off in that direction. Down the street the convent was visible, so after taking further bearings we turned off and headed straight to the cemetery. The correct gate was found and … the cemetery closed at 1700! The guard pointed it out to us even though in the Lonely Planet guide book on Moscow said it closed at 1800.
Dejected, unwanted and feeling in a grave mood, we headed back to the Metro Station. Along the way we came across a person who nearly stumbled in the gutter while talking on his mobile. He had a brown bag which hit the gutter at one point and suddenly brown foaming liquid poured out. He was totally drunk and had just smashed a bottle of beer in the bag. Despite warning him, he was too far gone to understand. We soldiered on and caught the train(s) back to the North River Port without any hassle at all.
I had been sure to make sure I got back before 1815 to catch the tour bus for the evening, so went by the parked buses to check if they were already loaded. It was raining and. Although there was a guide with one, there wasn’t with any other. I went onto the ship (ours was in the outboard position at this time, ready for departure tomorrow) to drop my books off at the cabin and found Katya there, telling me the bus was ready to go. Apparently the bus had gone down to another ship to pick up passengers and that was why I hadn’t seen it. I quickly boarded the bus, found the only vacant seat (next to a lady from Billings, Montana) and the bus was off to the Russian Folk Dancing show.
Now at this stage, dear reader, let me tell you a secret. Things which had run smoothly to this point, ceased to run smoothly.
The bus drove off, up to the main road (and past the bus still having its brakes repaired) and then into the traffic. At this time (1820), all seemed well – for about one minute, for as soon as we entered the main road the traffic stopped. It took many minutes before we reached an off ramp a few kilometres further on, and once on the ramp we stopped. After about twenty minutes we had got to the entrance to the other road. Here a lot of entertainment ensued, with most passengers on the left side looking down at cars which almost disappeared between the bus and other traffic. After another twenty minutes we were on the road but going nowhere quickly. Now, at just after 1900, it looked as though we may be late to the theatre, but everyone was hoping it was an accident or diversion which was slowing us down. But, alas, it was jus the Moscow traffic, compounded by the wet weather. Time marched on, but our bus didn’t. People became concerned that we might miss the 1930 start, but then we were told, no, it starts at 2000. Now as 2000 approached, came and departed, concerns were being heightened.
As anyone in control of people will tell you, they must be kept busy and happy. Otherwise, two things can happen – divine discontent, which will lead everyone on to unsurpassed heights, or rebellion, as Bligh (on the Bounty), Captain Quigg (on the Caine) and the tour guide on our bus found out. It started with one asking, well, how far are we away, when will we get there and when did the show actually start. The answers: we are not too far away, but because of the traffic it is not clear when we will arrive, the show starts at 2000 (Easter is not the only moveable feast) and the agents were wondering where we, and the other buses, were. Unfortunately this served only to add fuel to the fire as it seemed we knew less than before. The driver turned off into a side street and got a clear run … for about two hundred metres! Then the traffic jam resumed. By now camps were forming and splinter groups were being created. Some wanted to turn around and go back, as we would miss quite a bit. Others wanted to go on, but wanted more information. My fellow travellers wanted to know would we be back in time for our evening meal, scheduled for 2200. The next piece of information floored us – those from the other ship had already had tea and weren’t concerned about their evening meal. The solidarity group which had formed a few moments before suddenly shattered.
Without Henry Kissinger, negotiations went roughly. The passengers were now revolting (but some were still nice) and wanted more information and then to make a definitive decision. After a few mobile phone calls, an offer was made – keep going, and we should get to see half the show, and we would get a fifty per cent refund. This was not made loudly or clearly enough for those at the back to hear, so now other groups were appearing and wanting other solutions. After a short time when it looked as though the bus may be hijacked and driven back to the ship, the offer was repeated more clearly and then only two camps existed; go back now and get the whole price returned or go on and get half back. A head count was made and seventeen out of forty-one wanted to go on, so our guide, evidently not a mathematics graduate, said as more wanted to go on, we would. By the time people realised she wasn’t correct (I didn’t want to buy in as the whole thing was, to quote another passenger, a “great adventure”), we were at the venue. The bus stopped and we then had to walk up. Unfortunately the guide hadn’t told us where to enter, so with our heads down to avoid the driving rain, we missed the entrance and had to walk back. At 2055, we entered the theatre. No, to be more specific, seven of us entered the theatre and the rest were forcibly held back and then directed through another entrance.
The performance was stunning. The costumes were very good, the projected backgrounds were great, but the dancing was unbelievable. Spinning, dancing, kicking and rising and falling – all at the same time. At 2145 it finished.
However, our little epic had not. One of our number rushed outside to board the bus, only to find that the bus wasn’t there, but a torrential downpour was. A few minutes later she was back inside, wringing her shawl out on the floor. She was not pleased!
By 2200 we walked down to the bus. In an anticlimax, we started off into a traffic jam which cleared within a minute. We were back at the ship by 2245. The first question was, will we get a meal. And, all credit to the ship staff, the answer was yes. Our steward, Vladimir, even fixed up a special table for all of us who returned with mutiny or dissatisfaction on our minds.
The meal proved an anti-climax as we swapped tales and finally left the dining room at 0010. I decided I would, for one day, wait until later to write up my diary. After an epic day in many respects, I went to bed and to sleep.
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