This day started on the flight from Cairo to Singapore. The first I knew of it was having breakfast about an hour before the flight was due to arrive in Singapore. I followed my resolution of only eating part of the meal and not drinking too much (despite the hype, I don’t dehydrate on a plane).
We landed near enough on time at Singapore and it was really the rainy season. However, as I was staying inside, it didn’t make any difference to me. I found that I had to get from Terminal 3 to Terminal 2, so I caught the Skyway across. The automated system arrives every few minutes and only takes two minutes to arrive at the other terminal. However …
I arrived at the correct terminal and found there were screens with the departures for quite a few hours ahead, so I found mine scheduled to leave at 0955 from Gate Lounge 13. On the way walking to there, I came across toilets (good, as they were clean and I didn’t have to pay!), an orthodox priest who had also come from Cairo (he was going to Adelaide) and a FREE WiFi hotspot (but no power points!). I sat down and checked email and sent some out, but didn’t have enough power to process photos or even write up blogs (as these take up to an hour each, but are normally done while photos are uploading).
I wondered about getting a drink, but, as what goes in must come out, decided against it. I walked, took moving walkways and eventually arrived near Gate Lounge 13. Just to vary, I sat near the window – but the scenery was limited to raindrops, the Skyway and a road. I tried to read the book I got on the Egyptian Museum, but couldn’t concentrate because of the flow of humanity passing by attracting my attention (and because the person on the seat next to me did not share my ideas of person space (she was on half of my seat and managed to jab me every time she did anything).
Eventually the crew came along to man the scanners and detectors. Even though I hadn’t been out, and had passed scanning before, I had to go through. But we first had to wait for that crew to get in – so they had to attract the attention of workers already in the area to open it from inside. Then they all fiddled and waited for the aircrew and cabin staff to go through before opening it for passengers. With less than an hour to go and the crew still not there, we were allowed to start.
Once again, certain things became obvious. Pushy tour guides got their groups to the front of the queue (why I don’t know because we all had our seats allocated already) and started to move them through. As soon as the line got to us (the plebs, that is), the crew arrived. We had to let them through as otherwise none of us were going anywhere. Naturally I set off the alarms, but a quick frisk satisfied them I was “clean”. The passenger after me had two 120 ml bottles of very expensive shampoo in his luggage – and lost them. But tubes of toothpaste, larger than mine at Melbourne, were allowed through.
All silver linings have a cloud, so I found a power point inside and set up – and as soon as I started, boarding was called for the rear rows (where I was), so I had to pack up and board. I put the laptop in the overhead lockers, with my backpack and jacket (to give me more room and because I didn’t want to flatten the battery, only to find out as I left the aircraft in Melbourne that it had power points between the seats in FRONT of me and BEHIND me – but not visible to me as I boarded) and just had the iPod with me. I ended up with a Singaporean with very long legs next to me (so I only left the seat when he went out too) and a smallish Australian woman on the aisle. I was in a window seat.
We took off and I dozed. This was a mistake, as I soon (and later) found out. When the meals came around, I didn’t wake up before I got hold of it and nearly lost it. By the way, we got metal cutlery but a plastic knife (contrasting with all metal from Cairo to Singapore, therefore implying that those flying to Australia are riskier that those flying to Singapore). I had about half of that meal and then dozed again. I woke to find my companion gone, so I ducked out to the toilet quickly.
The next time I woke the next meal arrived and I took it while less than half awake and bits of it went everywhere. The poor steward was apologetic (why I don’t know as I was half asleep, not him) but I recovered enough to have my meal.
I took a few photos while I was briefly awake, but one I wanted (the Eyre Highway) was covered by cloud. And then it started.
We had had a good tailwind and it looked like we would be into Melbourne around half an hour early – this was good, as it meant I would be able to catch the earlier Gull bus and be home earlier. But half an hour before we passed over Adelaide, hostesses rushed to the cabin section just ahead of ours, pulled the curtain and then called for any doctors. Three stood up and went forward, but didn’t return. We passed over Adelaide and I deduced that as we didn’t land, the situation was either trivial or (more likely) fatal (as none of them had still come back).
We came in for our approach quite early and I passed over home (I could have dropped in – the 9000 foot fall wouldn’t have hurt, but the next foot where I had to stop would have) and also saw a circular rainbow (but could only photograph bits of it). Then we got told that a cold front moving past the airport would prevent us from landing, so we circled the airport for another twenty minutes.
We landed (not a finesse operation, but very quick) and were soon at the terminal and everyone went to get their luggage and were told by the steward to sit – and then some were MADE to sit. I thought it just confirmed what I thought, and a few minutes later we were told that a passenger had died and we couldn’t get off until after the police had secured the scene (difficult when nearly 150 had to file past). A few grumbled but everyone understood and twenty minutes later we were allowed to leave (except the doctors, two of whom were in the same row (centre) and had to make statements after we had all left). One of the police commented how we were packed in (a surprising comment from a policeman at an airport) and another was shielding the seat from the view of those passing).
Once off the plane, we were quickly through Customs and Immigration, then our baggage was already on the carousels and we headed out through the customs area. I got asked about my card and I explained Vegemite was the only item involved (and asked if he would put in a bid, but he didn’t). I headed out (a total of five minutes from leaving the plane to entering the Arrivals Hall) and walked resignedly over the bus stop … only to see the Gull bus pulling out, ten metres ahead of me!
I ended up in a discussion with a bus driver there, waiting for a tour group from New Zealand (late flight, delays, and now nearly four hours late) until the next bus arrived at just after 2200. By 2220 we were off and I was in Werribee by 2250. You guessed it – it started to rain as I left the bus and had to walk over to the taxi rank (I wasn’t going to wake anyone up at that time of night). I found an empty taxi (well, not really empty as the driver was inside) and was home within ten minutes, $8.60 lighter but elated at being back home at last, after 87 days this time and a total of 229 days away altogether.
I was soon in bed, but dozing in the aircraft meant I had difficulty in getting to sleep. But that, and what I do next, is another story.
However, the next entry will be observations made from home about places, where it would be unwise to make comments from.
Saturday, November 22, 2008
12 November
The last day!
Normally I would be rueing this and wishing that things could go on, but I am afraid that Egypt, the attitude more than anything, has made me feel that it is time to return home.
I look forward to going to a public toilet without having to pay (and have someone turn on the tap, squirt soap into my hands and offer me paper towelling and expect a tip), being able to shop without having to haggle (even in a corner shop or supermarket), to walk down the street without being hassled every minute, without suspecting everyone of having the motive of wanting to separate me from my money for the least effort, without the police expecting tips for doing their job and without the nagging feeling that everything I visit is having its life shortened by me visiting it. I also look forward to being able to drink water from a tap and knowing what the price of things are.
For me now, I look forward to getting behind the wheel of my cars and driving, instead of being at the mercy of others. It will be good to drive without having to worry about reindeer, moose, deer, camels (no, wait a minute, we have more of them at home than they do here) and pedestrians who have less rights than an ant.
Anyway, I woke at 0530 and got up just after 0600 and got ready, had breakfast (toast with Vegemite) and said goodbye to some who were at breakfast. As I left, for almost the first time away, a waiter looked at and smelt the Vegemite (he wasn’t impressed!). I enquired at the front desk about the shuttle and it runs every ten minutes. I will be down about 1100 and catch it to Terminal 2 for my flight and then settle down at the airport, once I know my luggage is checked in to go home to Melbourne, and either read or listen to the iPod (or if I can find power, continue to catch up on my blogs and photo naming).
Back in the room I packed everything – the suitcase should be under twenty kilograms, as there are few souvenirs in there and fewer things than I took away. The chocolate Teddy Bears and TimTams (one kilogram) have gone, most of the Vegemite (about eight hundred gram) has gone, one singlet has been discarded and the books are now in the backpack. The backpack has no extra tablets and only the computer gear, two Lonely Planet books, and T-shirts for the nephews, so it should be under eight kilograms. The computer bag has the laptop, a few guide books and tickets, etc. Then there is the bum bag (that’s well over a kilogram), the vest and the jacket (not that it’s cold, because it is quite warm, but it’s the easiest way to carry it) and finally the camera. Ready to roll and it’s 0930. I’m loading up on water as I can’t carry it, but of course as quickly as I’m putting it in one end it is coming out the other.
At 1010 I decided I couldn’t be bothered to wait in the hotel and would wait at the airport. I checked out, was walked out to the shuttle bus (with my luggage and no request for money, for the first time) and headed off to Terminal 2 at Cairo Airport.
I would like to say the day progressed smoothly, but …
After getting out at the airport, I found that my flight was checking in at Gates 1 to 5. I went to Entrance 1, which covered those gates. There an individual approached me to help me go through, but as soon as I said I had no money, I was directed to Entrance 3. There the guard looked at my documentation and directed me back to Entrance 1. Here I was told to go back to Entrance 3 – but no, I said, they directed me to here. Then there was another with me, who had also been given the same treatment and said it was par for the course. Eventually an officer came over and said it was the correct entrance, but would not open for another half hour. I sat and waited. The other person got up then and formed his own line, so I followed suit. Nothing happened. Then a couple of harried Americans turned up, only to be told they were at the wrong terminal with only 55 minutes till their plane left (taxi arrived late, then slow in traffic) but were able to catch the shuttle around. A tour group turned up and just pushed straight past us, and after their leader had an argument with the police at the scanning point, that group started to move through, so we went “with the flow” and got through.
I thought that I had managed to get the weight of the suitcase down, and so it was with relief I saw it was 20.8 kg. Somehow, however, on the luggage tag it made 22 kg – but I wasn’t charged extra, so I was okay. My hand luggage wasn’t weighed (phew!) as in total it would have been around 14 kg. I got my seat allocations for both sectors (Cairo to Singapore and Singapore to Melbourne) and then I wandered around the terminal. It was a lot smaller than I expected, but there is a new terminal being built.
It was then a matter of waiting for the flight. No powerpoints, so I couldn’t use the laptop. I read a little and listened to the iPod and watched as harried officials wondered where a passenger was for the flight next to mine.
Eventually we were called up and it was only a short time until I was on the plane. Then, to my relief, we were off and on our way to Singapore. Just before we boarded, the New Zealand contingent had arrived, after being seen through everything by Walid. However with the flight being full, there was no real chance to wander around, so I sat back and watched our takeoff, and then settled back to wait. Unfortunately for me, I dozed when I should have kept awake. This made the trip seem shorter, but ultimately meant I wasn’t tired. After the meal, I really did drop right off to sleep.
Normally I would be rueing this and wishing that things could go on, but I am afraid that Egypt, the attitude more than anything, has made me feel that it is time to return home.
I look forward to going to a public toilet without having to pay (and have someone turn on the tap, squirt soap into my hands and offer me paper towelling and expect a tip), being able to shop without having to haggle (even in a corner shop or supermarket), to walk down the street without being hassled every minute, without suspecting everyone of having the motive of wanting to separate me from my money for the least effort, without the police expecting tips for doing their job and without the nagging feeling that everything I visit is having its life shortened by me visiting it. I also look forward to being able to drink water from a tap and knowing what the price of things are.
For me now, I look forward to getting behind the wheel of my cars and driving, instead of being at the mercy of others. It will be good to drive without having to worry about reindeer, moose, deer, camels (no, wait a minute, we have more of them at home than they do here) and pedestrians who have less rights than an ant.
Anyway, I woke at 0530 and got up just after 0600 and got ready, had breakfast (toast with Vegemite) and said goodbye to some who were at breakfast. As I left, for almost the first time away, a waiter looked at and smelt the Vegemite (he wasn’t impressed!). I enquired at the front desk about the shuttle and it runs every ten minutes. I will be down about 1100 and catch it to Terminal 2 for my flight and then settle down at the airport, once I know my luggage is checked in to go home to Melbourne, and either read or listen to the iPod (or if I can find power, continue to catch up on my blogs and photo naming).
Back in the room I packed everything – the suitcase should be under twenty kilograms, as there are few souvenirs in there and fewer things than I took away. The chocolate Teddy Bears and TimTams (one kilogram) have gone, most of the Vegemite (about eight hundred gram) has gone, one singlet has been discarded and the books are now in the backpack. The backpack has no extra tablets and only the computer gear, two Lonely Planet books, and T-shirts for the nephews, so it should be under eight kilograms. The computer bag has the laptop, a few guide books and tickets, etc. Then there is the bum bag (that’s well over a kilogram), the vest and the jacket (not that it’s cold, because it is quite warm, but it’s the easiest way to carry it) and finally the camera. Ready to roll and it’s 0930. I’m loading up on water as I can’t carry it, but of course as quickly as I’m putting it in one end it is coming out the other.
At 1010 I decided I couldn’t be bothered to wait in the hotel and would wait at the airport. I checked out, was walked out to the shuttle bus (with my luggage and no request for money, for the first time) and headed off to Terminal 2 at Cairo Airport.
I would like to say the day progressed smoothly, but …
After getting out at the airport, I found that my flight was checking in at Gates 1 to 5. I went to Entrance 1, which covered those gates. There an individual approached me to help me go through, but as soon as I said I had no money, I was directed to Entrance 3. There the guard looked at my documentation and directed me back to Entrance 1. Here I was told to go back to Entrance 3 – but no, I said, they directed me to here. Then there was another with me, who had also been given the same treatment and said it was par for the course. Eventually an officer came over and said it was the correct entrance, but would not open for another half hour. I sat and waited. The other person got up then and formed his own line, so I followed suit. Nothing happened. Then a couple of harried Americans turned up, only to be told they were at the wrong terminal with only 55 minutes till their plane left (taxi arrived late, then slow in traffic) but were able to catch the shuttle around. A tour group turned up and just pushed straight past us, and after their leader had an argument with the police at the scanning point, that group started to move through, so we went “with the flow” and got through.
I thought that I had managed to get the weight of the suitcase down, and so it was with relief I saw it was 20.8 kg. Somehow, however, on the luggage tag it made 22 kg – but I wasn’t charged extra, so I was okay. My hand luggage wasn’t weighed (phew!) as in total it would have been around 14 kg. I got my seat allocations for both sectors (Cairo to Singapore and Singapore to Melbourne) and then I wandered around the terminal. It was a lot smaller than I expected, but there is a new terminal being built.
It was then a matter of waiting for the flight. No powerpoints, so I couldn’t use the laptop. I read a little and listened to the iPod and watched as harried officials wondered where a passenger was for the flight next to mine.
Eventually we were called up and it was only a short time until I was on the plane. Then, to my relief, we were off and on our way to Singapore. Just before we boarded, the New Zealand contingent had arrived, after being seen through everything by Walid. However with the flight being full, there was no real chance to wander around, so I sat back and watched our takeoff, and then settled back to wait. Unfortunately for me, I dozed when I should have kept awake. This made the trip seem shorter, but ultimately meant I wasn’t tired. After the meal, I really did drop right off to sleep.
11 November
Today – the last actual day of the tour and the second-last of my second trip away and the second last of my tripping overseas.
As usual it was awake early, in this case 0545 so I could be showered and dressed to be up to see the balloons over the Valley of the Kings. There were a large number and they were up at the time I was there, so it was good. I couldn’t get a low-level picture because of the number of cruise boats between our boat (Radamis II) and the Nile – there were four, but at some spots the boats were moored seven deep.
It was then down for breakfast, today with Ross as he was the earliest there. Bob joined us before too long and then more straggled in. We weren’t leaving until 0800, so quite a few were taking advantage.
After the usual final preparations I had my suitcase out by 0730 (we had to vacate the cabins for the next group) and then, after a final check to ensure I had everything, I was down to the lounge for our briefing before leaving. Eventually all arrived and we were off to the Valley of the Kings. Although it was just across the river, we had to go down about fifteen minutes, cross a bridge and then return. We drove in to the obligatory briefing before leaving the bus – in this case amongst many buses there, and the day was already getting warm, so we had our other warnings about taking or getting liquids to have with us.
After a look around the Visitors Centre (with a very good perspex model of the valley and the relative positions and sizes of the tombs), we boarded a tram (tractor with a few carriages), got our tickets and entered. The heat already (0930) and the size of the mountains and the rough and unforgiving terrain around is emphasised how bleak and inhospitable this place must have been when the tombs were constructed.
We were going to walk around with Hesham giving us an outline of history and location, while actually entering three tombs. We went into one which was fairly steep to enter (and therefore to leave), one which was gentle (and had two tombs, one built after the other and further in) and one which was unfinished. While that may sound too few in a valley of sixty-three tombs, many are not open, and others only open on rotation. Also, to hear the history and put it into perspective, to physically enter the tomb and to look at it and absorb the hieroglyphics and the paintings takes about twenty minutes (for each). Some decided to visit Tutanhkamen’s tomb (I didn’t) so we waited while they went there. By 1140 we were on the tram and on our way out, ready for more.
But wait – before we went further there was a visit to an alabaster place.
In the local village there, alabaster places equal the number of families. We visited one, where we got shown the process for forming the various pieces and then got the “hard sell” on the products available. It is easy to be cynical about our purpose in visiting such places (including papyrus, perfume and other places), but apart from seeing how things are done, it is a change of pace, a chance to sit in a cooler and more spacious area, an opportunity to have a drink and frequently, to go to the toilet in clean surroundings without having to pay. Also you can get souvenirs in a genuine place (but whether the price is genuine is very difficult for neophytes to know). Many (including me) got a small piece to take home as a suitable and light import for either memories or for others.
Then we were off to the Temple of Hatshepsut. From a distance it looks significant but as I approached it become imposing, especially when I walked up to it and through it. A lot of these places, sometimes covered in rubble, sometimes defaced by generations including the makers, are slowly being returned to either their former glory or at least being kept for future generations. So through the dust and the gentle winter heat I walked through and this temple, with its view of Luxor in the background.
After returning to the bus we went to the Colossi of Memnon, literally by the roadside, and then to a hotel in Luxor for lunch. Normally I would have taken the opportunity to walk around and just chew on biscuits or bread while doing to, but the temperature, the fact that the time away was coming to a close and the often unwelcoming atmosphere within Egyptian towns (so the good people get confused within the not-so-good) made me take the opportunity to sit and eat while chatting and looking out, in this case onto the Nile.
After this, and at about 1530, we walked out of the hotel restaurant and to the bank of the Nile and onto two feluccas. To board we walked along two spring gangplanks, which was unsettling to some but entirely familiar to others (including me). Once on board, we were towed out at there was little wind and we were going upstream. The other felucca was towed behind us, so we all saw the same sights – children playing, farmers working, camels and other livestock grazing and, occasionally, children now trying to sell or just asking for money. One was a young girl (about ten) who rowed after each felucca on the river (including our two) asking for money. On our way back we saw a hulk of a river boat – apparently destroyed in a fire for an insurance claim. It looked as if it was slowly being salvaged for scrap.
Once on the bank we went to our boat, sighted our luggage, completed any paperwork (mine was fortunately finished, but I still had to pay for the light and sound show the evening before) and then went to the bus (at 1810) to go to Luxor International Airport. This we reached before 1825 and here the fun began.
There were a line of porters waiting to take out luggage the hundred metres to the first detectors. For this they expected a tip. Then there were porters who lifted luggage onto the detector belt – they expected a tip. On the other side porters lowered luggage, again expecting a tip. Then different porters took luggage to the check-in counters and again expected a tip. Finally other porters put the luggage onto the weigh belt and again expected a tip. Most of us did it ourselves, but friends I had met on the ship found they had forked out five tips to get to the gate lounge. Not only is it an inconvenience (having to open money containers every few minutes) but it means if change was put aside for a drink, or as a souvenir, it all disappeared. IF there wasn’t any change, it meant either an excessive tip or disgruntled porters who ended up with nothing.
Finally we boarded a bus to go out to the plane. I was in three seats with others from Cosmos (no free row for me this time) and although I had the window seat, I gallantly gave it up and sat in the aisle seat. On schedule we took off (without the drama of our original flight) and after a remarkably short time landed in Cairo.
Getting of the plane was okay, boarding the bus was okay, getting into the terminal was okay, waiting for the luggage was okay but when the luggage arrived – a lot of unhappy campers, including me. Someone else had a hole in their suitcase – I had the extension handle (for holding while walking along wheeling it) broken, so to grip it is painful and not easy. Fortunately this is the third-last time I have to handle it (just tomorrow morning to get onto the aircraft and then in Melbourne getting off and then walking in Werribee to get a taxi home), so I can put up with it, but for a new suitcase it has not lasted well.
The matter was compounded when the porter engaged at this end piled very suitcase onto the one large trolley – I would not like to have had anything except clothes in the lower cases, and mine in the third-top layer was getting crushed sufficiently to make me feel concern about the souvenirs I had it there. We did all make it to the bus, but again there were rumblings about the luggage handling.
We got to our hotel five minutes later (Le Passage is just across the road from the airport) and Bb and I had determined that tomorrow morning we would scout out the different ways of getting to the airport (as we had no transfers included). But after everyone else had their transfers and times read out, we were told there was a free shuttle to the airport and we just had to tell the desk and we would travel there quickly. Some who had paid large amounts for transfers were now grumbling.
At the hotel we got our keys and headed off. Our rooms were mainly in the 5000s, which while logic would dictate would be on the fifth floor, were in fact in another building on either the ground or first floor. To get there from the lobby meant three sets of three steps – enough to annoy or to inconvenience, especially those who were older or very tired from the flight and day’s touring.
Eventually everyone was settled in, most said goodbye to each other because of different departure times tomorrow and I started to process some photos for Lin and Sue. When I went to tell them it would take some time to burn the DVDs, I found they had been unable to order breakfast boxes for tomorrow (they leave at 0130 – yes, that was correct!). We all went for a walk to the lobby and got that sorted, and some money changed, and finally I burned their DVDs and got them to them just as they were dropping off for a nap (not really a sleep for just over three hours).
I set the computer to shrink my Egyptian photos, but I still have to name and rotate them, which I wasn’t going to do feeling as tired as I was. At about 2300 I went to bed, although I wasn’t to sleep until nearly midnight.
As usual it was awake early, in this case 0545 so I could be showered and dressed to be up to see the balloons over the Valley of the Kings. There were a large number and they were up at the time I was there, so it was good. I couldn’t get a low-level picture because of the number of cruise boats between our boat (Radamis II) and the Nile – there were four, but at some spots the boats were moored seven deep.
It was then down for breakfast, today with Ross as he was the earliest there. Bob joined us before too long and then more straggled in. We weren’t leaving until 0800, so quite a few were taking advantage.
After the usual final preparations I had my suitcase out by 0730 (we had to vacate the cabins for the next group) and then, after a final check to ensure I had everything, I was down to the lounge for our briefing before leaving. Eventually all arrived and we were off to the Valley of the Kings. Although it was just across the river, we had to go down about fifteen minutes, cross a bridge and then return. We drove in to the obligatory briefing before leaving the bus – in this case amongst many buses there, and the day was already getting warm, so we had our other warnings about taking or getting liquids to have with us.
After a look around the Visitors Centre (with a very good perspex model of the valley and the relative positions and sizes of the tombs), we boarded a tram (tractor with a few carriages), got our tickets and entered. The heat already (0930) and the size of the mountains and the rough and unforgiving terrain around is emphasised how bleak and inhospitable this place must have been when the tombs were constructed.
We were going to walk around with Hesham giving us an outline of history and location, while actually entering three tombs. We went into one which was fairly steep to enter (and therefore to leave), one which was gentle (and had two tombs, one built after the other and further in) and one which was unfinished. While that may sound too few in a valley of sixty-three tombs, many are not open, and others only open on rotation. Also, to hear the history and put it into perspective, to physically enter the tomb and to look at it and absorb the hieroglyphics and the paintings takes about twenty minutes (for each). Some decided to visit Tutanhkamen’s tomb (I didn’t) so we waited while they went there. By 1140 we were on the tram and on our way out, ready for more.
But wait – before we went further there was a visit to an alabaster place.
In the local village there, alabaster places equal the number of families. We visited one, where we got shown the process for forming the various pieces and then got the “hard sell” on the products available. It is easy to be cynical about our purpose in visiting such places (including papyrus, perfume and other places), but apart from seeing how things are done, it is a change of pace, a chance to sit in a cooler and more spacious area, an opportunity to have a drink and frequently, to go to the toilet in clean surroundings without having to pay. Also you can get souvenirs in a genuine place (but whether the price is genuine is very difficult for neophytes to know). Many (including me) got a small piece to take home as a suitable and light import for either memories or for others.
Then we were off to the Temple of Hatshepsut. From a distance it looks significant but as I approached it become imposing, especially when I walked up to it and through it. A lot of these places, sometimes covered in rubble, sometimes defaced by generations including the makers, are slowly being returned to either their former glory or at least being kept for future generations. So through the dust and the gentle winter heat I walked through and this temple, with its view of Luxor in the background.
After returning to the bus we went to the Colossi of Memnon, literally by the roadside, and then to a hotel in Luxor for lunch. Normally I would have taken the opportunity to walk around and just chew on biscuits or bread while doing to, but the temperature, the fact that the time away was coming to a close and the often unwelcoming atmosphere within Egyptian towns (so the good people get confused within the not-so-good) made me take the opportunity to sit and eat while chatting and looking out, in this case onto the Nile.
After this, and at about 1530, we walked out of the hotel restaurant and to the bank of the Nile and onto two feluccas. To board we walked along two spring gangplanks, which was unsettling to some but entirely familiar to others (including me). Once on board, we were towed out at there was little wind and we were going upstream. The other felucca was towed behind us, so we all saw the same sights – children playing, farmers working, camels and other livestock grazing and, occasionally, children now trying to sell or just asking for money. One was a young girl (about ten) who rowed after each felucca on the river (including our two) asking for money. On our way back we saw a hulk of a river boat – apparently destroyed in a fire for an insurance claim. It looked as if it was slowly being salvaged for scrap.
Once on the bank we went to our boat, sighted our luggage, completed any paperwork (mine was fortunately finished, but I still had to pay for the light and sound show the evening before) and then went to the bus (at 1810) to go to Luxor International Airport. This we reached before 1825 and here the fun began.
There were a line of porters waiting to take out luggage the hundred metres to the first detectors. For this they expected a tip. Then there were porters who lifted luggage onto the detector belt – they expected a tip. On the other side porters lowered luggage, again expecting a tip. Then different porters took luggage to the check-in counters and again expected a tip. Finally other porters put the luggage onto the weigh belt and again expected a tip. Most of us did it ourselves, but friends I had met on the ship found they had forked out five tips to get to the gate lounge. Not only is it an inconvenience (having to open money containers every few minutes) but it means if change was put aside for a drink, or as a souvenir, it all disappeared. IF there wasn’t any change, it meant either an excessive tip or disgruntled porters who ended up with nothing.
Finally we boarded a bus to go out to the plane. I was in three seats with others from Cosmos (no free row for me this time) and although I had the window seat, I gallantly gave it up and sat in the aisle seat. On schedule we took off (without the drama of our original flight) and after a remarkably short time landed in Cairo.
Getting of the plane was okay, boarding the bus was okay, getting into the terminal was okay, waiting for the luggage was okay but when the luggage arrived – a lot of unhappy campers, including me. Someone else had a hole in their suitcase – I had the extension handle (for holding while walking along wheeling it) broken, so to grip it is painful and not easy. Fortunately this is the third-last time I have to handle it (just tomorrow morning to get onto the aircraft and then in Melbourne getting off and then walking in Werribee to get a taxi home), so I can put up with it, but for a new suitcase it has not lasted well.
The matter was compounded when the porter engaged at this end piled very suitcase onto the one large trolley – I would not like to have had anything except clothes in the lower cases, and mine in the third-top layer was getting crushed sufficiently to make me feel concern about the souvenirs I had it there. We did all make it to the bus, but again there were rumblings about the luggage handling.
We got to our hotel five minutes later (Le Passage is just across the road from the airport) and Bb and I had determined that tomorrow morning we would scout out the different ways of getting to the airport (as we had no transfers included). But after everyone else had their transfers and times read out, we were told there was a free shuttle to the airport and we just had to tell the desk and we would travel there quickly. Some who had paid large amounts for transfers were now grumbling.
At the hotel we got our keys and headed off. Our rooms were mainly in the 5000s, which while logic would dictate would be on the fifth floor, were in fact in another building on either the ground or first floor. To get there from the lobby meant three sets of three steps – enough to annoy or to inconvenience, especially those who were older or very tired from the flight and day’s touring.
Eventually everyone was settled in, most said goodbye to each other because of different departure times tomorrow and I started to process some photos for Lin and Sue. When I went to tell them it would take some time to burn the DVDs, I found they had been unable to order breakfast boxes for tomorrow (they leave at 0130 – yes, that was correct!). We all went for a walk to the lobby and got that sorted, and some money changed, and finally I burned their DVDs and got them to them just as they were dropping off for a nap (not really a sleep for just over three hours).
I set the computer to shrink my Egyptian photos, but I still have to name and rotate them, which I wasn’t going to do feeling as tired as I was. At about 2300 I went to bed, although I wasn’t to sleep until nearly midnight.
10 November
Today I was up at 0600 and up for breakfast at 0630. Again it was most pleasant having breakfast, chatting and seeing the Nile slip quietly and gently by. With no early scheduled departure, I went up to the sundeck after (we were the fourth boat out from the dock) and looked across the Nile to the Valley of the Kings. I had missed the hot-air balloons so resolved to try to catch them tomorrow.
By 0820 I was down in the lounge and ready for our departure to Karnak Temple. Hesham said he had tried to arrange our times today so we would not be at places with the maximum crowds. By 0830 we were off to Karnak Temple (now in the suburbs of Luxor) and by 0850 we had arrived – with over one hundred buses already there (but the park was only half-full). By 0915 we were in the temple and getting our guided tour. We had a few minutes at the end to look around, and here my first-aid training slipped into gear as one of our members tripped over a sunken stone – and fell, putting her hand out to stop her falling and badly bruising and straining her hand and wrist instead. I told her what to do after she had recovered from the trauma, but she was a nurse (and therefore a bad patient, didn’t do what she was told, and ended up two days later with a huge bruise). She was able to walk okay and returned to the bus with everyone with minimal fuss.
We left and arrived at a perfumerie at 1140 and stayed there until 1240. Devika and I had already seen all the spiel, so knew what we would hear and nodded in appreciation as the story unfolded (as we knew it would). The prices were higher than I had paid in Cairo so I felt happy, as the product was the same.
We then headed off to Luxor Temple and had what looked like a long time to wander through, but again after the guided tour it was too little time to do the place justice. By 1400 we were back on the bus and heading back to the ship (Radamis II) for a late lunch and a free afternoon. Straight after lunch we got our feedback forms and by 1535 I was settled in for a massage (which didn’t start until 1540). I was told to relax (which I did) and by 1620 I was finished (but wished I could have had another half-hour). I was told not to remove the oil until after dinner, so I went out to see where the girls (Australian, Indian and American) had gone. They weren’t on the ship, so I went down to the town bazaar, despite protestations from taxi and carriage drivers that it was closed and I should go on a tour of the town with them. On the way I got a trader who asked my to write a postcard for him, and he seemed offended when I would do nothing more (unfortunately suspicion rubs off on all, when it should be reserved for those for whom it is due).
At an arcade I looked in and found all in shopping, with Bob as chaperone. He ended up with the Americans and I ended up with Sue, Lin and Devika. They were looking for particular things, and as it turned out, managed to get them despite a tight timetable and reluctant merchants. We hurried back to the ship to make it for the Karnak Light and Sound Show, as we were the only ones going. We had the local agent take us in a minibus, then he left us (and me with the tickets), arranging where to meet us on our return.
We went in and passed over our tickets, then moved down with the crowd for the beginning of the show. Just before it started, a man collapsed just in front of me and I used my shoes to stop his head from hitting the stones. A security officer came over, I told him the wife had asked for an ambulance and he radioed for one. He stayed with the family, so I went on.
The show was very different from the one at the pyramids. Here we got a history of Upper Egypt and the evolution of the areas of Thebes and Luxor. We also had to move around to a number of places, finishing up on seats (steps for us) for the final show. When we left, the second show had already started. We moved through as they were at the second point.
The local guide met us and we were soon back at the ship for a late dinner. One consolation of seeing other things was that everything moved quickly, so straight after dinner it was to the lounge for a show of a dervish dancer and then a belly dancer. As soon as they had finished everyone departed, but we (Sue, Lin and Devika) walked down to Luxor Temple to see it by light. All the way we were bothered by either taxi drivers, carriage drivers or felluca sailors. It was only about a fifteen minute walk, so it wasn’t really too bad.
After, I was quickly back to my room where I processed the photos, had a bath and was soon into bed and asleep.
By 0820 I was down in the lounge and ready for our departure to Karnak Temple. Hesham said he had tried to arrange our times today so we would not be at places with the maximum crowds. By 0830 we were off to Karnak Temple (now in the suburbs of Luxor) and by 0850 we had arrived – with over one hundred buses already there (but the park was only half-full). By 0915 we were in the temple and getting our guided tour. We had a few minutes at the end to look around, and here my first-aid training slipped into gear as one of our members tripped over a sunken stone – and fell, putting her hand out to stop her falling and badly bruising and straining her hand and wrist instead. I told her what to do after she had recovered from the trauma, but she was a nurse (and therefore a bad patient, didn’t do what she was told, and ended up two days later with a huge bruise). She was able to walk okay and returned to the bus with everyone with minimal fuss.
We left and arrived at a perfumerie at 1140 and stayed there until 1240. Devika and I had already seen all the spiel, so knew what we would hear and nodded in appreciation as the story unfolded (as we knew it would). The prices were higher than I had paid in Cairo so I felt happy, as the product was the same.
We then headed off to Luxor Temple and had what looked like a long time to wander through, but again after the guided tour it was too little time to do the place justice. By 1400 we were back on the bus and heading back to the ship (Radamis II) for a late lunch and a free afternoon. Straight after lunch we got our feedback forms and by 1535 I was settled in for a massage (which didn’t start until 1540). I was told to relax (which I did) and by 1620 I was finished (but wished I could have had another half-hour). I was told not to remove the oil until after dinner, so I went out to see where the girls (Australian, Indian and American) had gone. They weren’t on the ship, so I went down to the town bazaar, despite protestations from taxi and carriage drivers that it was closed and I should go on a tour of the town with them. On the way I got a trader who asked my to write a postcard for him, and he seemed offended when I would do nothing more (unfortunately suspicion rubs off on all, when it should be reserved for those for whom it is due).
At an arcade I looked in and found all in shopping, with Bob as chaperone. He ended up with the Americans and I ended up with Sue, Lin and Devika. They were looking for particular things, and as it turned out, managed to get them despite a tight timetable and reluctant merchants. We hurried back to the ship to make it for the Karnak Light and Sound Show, as we were the only ones going. We had the local agent take us in a minibus, then he left us (and me with the tickets), arranging where to meet us on our return.
We went in and passed over our tickets, then moved down with the crowd for the beginning of the show. Just before it started, a man collapsed just in front of me and I used my shoes to stop his head from hitting the stones. A security officer came over, I told him the wife had asked for an ambulance and he radioed for one. He stayed with the family, so I went on.
The show was very different from the one at the pyramids. Here we got a history of Upper Egypt and the evolution of the areas of Thebes and Luxor. We also had to move around to a number of places, finishing up on seats (steps for us) for the final show. When we left, the second show had already started. We moved through as they were at the second point.
The local guide met us and we were soon back at the ship for a late dinner. One consolation of seeing other things was that everything moved quickly, so straight after dinner it was to the lounge for a show of a dervish dancer and then a belly dancer. As soon as they had finished everyone departed, but we (Sue, Lin and Devika) walked down to Luxor Temple to see it by light. All the way we were bothered by either taxi drivers, carriage drivers or felluca sailors. It was only about a fifteen minute walk, so it wasn’t really too bad.
After, I was quickly back to my room where I processed the photos, had a bath and was soon into bed and asleep.
9 November
My first real day on the Nile – and it was great waking up and seeing the bank going by. Visions of the Moscow to St Petersburg cruise returned, but the heat through the window and the different scenery made it obviously different. I was awake not long after 0600 and quickly up for breakfast at 0615 (I only had to shower, dress and go up two decks). Again, it was magic watching the banks of the Nile glide by while eating breakfast in comfort. There was no toast, but after a request, a basketful appeared (note: just because bread has been through a toaster, you don’t get toast, because here it came COLD). So Vegemite was on the menu again.
By 0730 we had docked and it was obvious where we were going – the temple of Kom Ombo was really just across the other side of the road. A short walk later, through the obligatory bazaar of souvenir sellers, we were at the temple. There was a lot to see and a lot to have explained (by the way, the explanations were too detailed to note here, but I may digest them from the Lonely planet guide and add them later) and after an exhausting hour and a half, we were back onto the ship and very shortly after, we were off again.
During our cruising south I chatted on the deck with Sue, Lin, Pattie and Margaret. As always in situations like this, regular mealtimes rule, so we were soon down for lunch before we docked again, at 1330, at Edfu. Here we were to go to the temple by horse and carriage, normally a unique and inspiring journey, but not when my horse allergy played up and I ended up sneezing and with a runny nose. So for Devika and me, in carriage 92, it was an interesting but short drive to the temple. The temple here could be best described as majestic and was a spectacle in the warm afternoon sun. Again we got the guided tour and a little time to wander, and then we were back into our carriage for our ride back. Our driver, who had been so good on the drive out, gave us the sob story on the way back just before we stopped, but we had already been briefed – Hesham had negotiated the rates and would pay them all once we all returned. We were on board but then saw drinks at a reasonable price, so ran back across the road to get them. We made sure we were back for our scheduled departure at 1530 but … nothing happened until nearly 1555 when a bus came to a screaming halt, the driver handed over a purse and scarf and then left, as we did. We found out not long after that some of the drivers had caused a scene over the payments and the resulted in a police report.
Very soon after we went under a low bridge – the sundeck awnings had been lowered and there was just enough clearance for me (although some watching didn’t think there was) – and soon after the awnings were up and we had afternoon tea. During this time I chatted with a couple from Perth and a couple from near Chicago, saw a great sunset and took some photos and ordered T-shirts as souvenirs with cartouches of names on them. I also arranged a massage for tomorrow, to see if that would help me unwind a little.
Then it was an evening of Egyptian entertainment with dinner, picking up the T-shirts (and paying for them), and then off to bed.
By 0730 we had docked and it was obvious where we were going – the temple of Kom Ombo was really just across the other side of the road. A short walk later, through the obligatory bazaar of souvenir sellers, we were at the temple. There was a lot to see and a lot to have explained (by the way, the explanations were too detailed to note here, but I may digest them from the Lonely planet guide and add them later) and after an exhausting hour and a half, we were back onto the ship and very shortly after, we were off again.
During our cruising south I chatted on the deck with Sue, Lin, Pattie and Margaret. As always in situations like this, regular mealtimes rule, so we were soon down for lunch before we docked again, at 1330, at Edfu. Here we were to go to the temple by horse and carriage, normally a unique and inspiring journey, but not when my horse allergy played up and I ended up sneezing and with a runny nose. So for Devika and me, in carriage 92, it was an interesting but short drive to the temple. The temple here could be best described as majestic and was a spectacle in the warm afternoon sun. Again we got the guided tour and a little time to wander, and then we were back into our carriage for our ride back. Our driver, who had been so good on the drive out, gave us the sob story on the way back just before we stopped, but we had already been briefed – Hesham had negotiated the rates and would pay them all once we all returned. We were on board but then saw drinks at a reasonable price, so ran back across the road to get them. We made sure we were back for our scheduled departure at 1530 but … nothing happened until nearly 1555 when a bus came to a screaming halt, the driver handed over a purse and scarf and then left, as we did. We found out not long after that some of the drivers had caused a scene over the payments and the resulted in a police report.
Very soon after we went under a low bridge – the sundeck awnings had been lowered and there was just enough clearance for me (although some watching didn’t think there was) – and soon after the awnings were up and we had afternoon tea. During this time I chatted with a couple from Perth and a couple from near Chicago, saw a great sunset and took some photos and ordered T-shirts as souvenirs with cartouches of names on them. I also arranged a massage for tomorrow, to see if that would help me unwind a little.
Then it was an evening of Egyptian entertainment with dinner, picking up the T-shirts (and paying for them), and then off to bed.
8 November
Now today really was THE day.
I had set my alarm for 0215 and got up, packed, showered and had my bag out by 0300 and was quickly up to have a cup of tea before leaving. We were nearly all at the bus by 0325 and we left at 0335 (after separating the bags which were to stay) for our epic journey – across the road to the airline terminal, which we reached, after problems with parking because so many buses arrived at once, at 0345.
Here we were off, got our bags and our breakfast boxes (including a bottle of water?) and formed a queue to go through the screening procedures before getting into the airport. Now the fun (?) started.
There were only two gates open. It looked like there were about three or four planes leaving at once, which meant nearly a thousand people were trying to get through. We duly took up our places, only to have another tour group push in front because their plane left at 0515 (not taking into account that ours left at 0445). We melded into that group to try to get through quickly and so I arrived, at the head of our group, to put my bags through (okay), to set off the metal detector (okay) but then when I was queried about my ticket, and could only reply that our tour guide had them all (for the whole group), I was told to re-enter and got asked the same again. I replied the same again, and after the fifth time I was getting dangerously close to landing one on the chin of this armed guard who wasn’t able to call out to someone only two metres away. Fortunately, just as I was getting ready, Hashem came over and tried to explain, but seemed to be getting the same response. After a few minutes, and the other tour guide becoming embroiled as well, I was allowed to go through and was followed by the others (who made comments such as, “I’m glad it was you and not me”, Why didn’t we get our tickets before” and so on). Now we were given our tickets and our bags were taken and we were told to go through to the boarding gate. At this stage, exasperated with the previous events, running late and just plain mad, I led Lin and Sue through the detectors to Gate 12 very quickly. The only problem was we left from Gate 11, so it was a quick about face and back through Gate 11 and onto a bus and onto the aircraft about five minutes before it was due to leave. At this stage, a group from another tour were around us and looked on in amazement was we proceeded to take our water and other liquids out and start on them. Their comment: “We were told to discard our water before the detectors – how did you get through?” Also, the boarding passes were issued for a few names but for multiple seats. I ended up with two Egyptians who were upgraded to First Class just before we left (at just after 0500), so had the row to myself.
We took off. Normally that’s where I would end, but about half-way through the runway run, the whole plane slewed to the side and everyone looked at each other and eyes were raised and fingers were crossed. We made it – otherwise this couldn’t have been written.
Bob then made comment that after getting his suitcase and having everything, he decided to only take a small bag with him for the Nile cruise, and then lost a corkscrew and other things because they were picked up in the detectors (not in hold luggage, as he didn’t have any).
The flight to Aswan was made in relative calm and the sun rose not long before we crossed the High Dam, circled over Lake Nasser and then came in for a landing. We were just about to think the pilot was getting better when, immediately after our wheels touched, the plane slewed right and left before repeating the procedure as the engines reversed thrust and we all held our breath again. We made it (heaven knows how because I don’t) and, after landing, got into a bus to travel about one hundred metres to the terminal. Here we got and claimed our luggage – or in some cases what was left of it, as for a few, there was damage. For one couple, the handle had been torn off. A porter loaded it into the bus and we were off – to see the High Dam.
This was a great piece of engineering, built by Egyptians under the supervision of Russians after a deal with the West fell through. It stores a lot of water and generates a lot of power, but I can’t help wondering at what cost. There now is no annual flooding, so no deposit of silt (with its long-term effects on the fertility of the Nile valley) downstream, yet all that silt now must be left in the dam, lessening the storage each year. Also, the Nubians displaced are now souvenir sellers, which does not lend this graceful group of people a great stature in the eyes of visitors.
We then headed off to take a boat to Phillae, where we saw temples which had been moved from the original island to their new location. Boats taking tourists formed veritable flotillas and the souvenir sellers came on the boats, not to waste a moment when sales could be made.
On the island we got a tour of the temples and the story of the flooding of the original site and tours undertaken by boat around columns which we were able to walk around. The site was magnificent, and when we had a (short) time to walk around and look, full of ambience. Again, too soon, we had to board the boat and return to the bus.
At this point, we headed off to the quarry, where an unfinished obelisk of well over a thousand tonnes was all that remained of many obelisks and other items which had been created here and then floated down the Nile (to Luxor, Cairo and other places, and eventually to many places through out the world). We had to leave here by 1100 to be in convey to go to Abu Simbel, so those who were not going (and instead going straight to the ship) departed to travel by a minibus while we gathered together (once everyone finally arrived).
The convoy was a police vehicle, police aboard buses with tourists, taxis and private cars and finally another police vehicle at the end. We headed out and into the desert, today travelling at a more sedate 100 kilometres per hour.
The desert was more like a real sandy desert, but with settlements, oases and canals, it looks like the area may soon be settled and under agriculture. We passed the early-morning convoy returning after about an hour or so. There were many places which were isolated and occasional police check points and we finally arrived at Abu Simbel for a needed toilet stop and our tour of the temples.
We walked around to a view of the lake and a mound, and were told to keep our eyes on the path and the lake. Then, at once, we were all told to look to the left and see the temple – and a magnificent sight it was, all the more because it had been moved to there. Once again we couldn’t take photos inside, so that will have to be left to later to explain, or to see through commercial views. It was truly a testament to what can be done by sheer manpower, as its size is large even today. Next to it is a smaller temple, but only in size, not in impact. As was now the norm, the just under two hours we had was not sufficient to do them justice, but we had to leave to accompany the convey back to Aswan.
Darkness fell during our return journey and it was after 1900 by the time we returned to Aswan and the ship. Just before dinner, I ran into two Americans, Chris and Sheila, who I had seen in the airport. They were doing an independent tour of Egypt, joining different groups to see different features, but had not seen Abu Simbel. We talked about touring and then separated for dinner.
Not long after dinner I went off to my cabin and to bed.
I had set my alarm for 0215 and got up, packed, showered and had my bag out by 0300 and was quickly up to have a cup of tea before leaving. We were nearly all at the bus by 0325 and we left at 0335 (after separating the bags which were to stay) for our epic journey – across the road to the airline terminal, which we reached, after problems with parking because so many buses arrived at once, at 0345.
Here we were off, got our bags and our breakfast boxes (including a bottle of water?) and formed a queue to go through the screening procedures before getting into the airport. Now the fun (?) started.
There were only two gates open. It looked like there were about three or four planes leaving at once, which meant nearly a thousand people were trying to get through. We duly took up our places, only to have another tour group push in front because their plane left at 0515 (not taking into account that ours left at 0445). We melded into that group to try to get through quickly and so I arrived, at the head of our group, to put my bags through (okay), to set off the metal detector (okay) but then when I was queried about my ticket, and could only reply that our tour guide had them all (for the whole group), I was told to re-enter and got asked the same again. I replied the same again, and after the fifth time I was getting dangerously close to landing one on the chin of this armed guard who wasn’t able to call out to someone only two metres away. Fortunately, just as I was getting ready, Hashem came over and tried to explain, but seemed to be getting the same response. After a few minutes, and the other tour guide becoming embroiled as well, I was allowed to go through and was followed by the others (who made comments such as, “I’m glad it was you and not me”, Why didn’t we get our tickets before” and so on). Now we were given our tickets and our bags were taken and we were told to go through to the boarding gate. At this stage, exasperated with the previous events, running late and just plain mad, I led Lin and Sue through the detectors to Gate 12 very quickly. The only problem was we left from Gate 11, so it was a quick about face and back through Gate 11 and onto a bus and onto the aircraft about five minutes before it was due to leave. At this stage, a group from another tour were around us and looked on in amazement was we proceeded to take our water and other liquids out and start on them. Their comment: “We were told to discard our water before the detectors – how did you get through?” Also, the boarding passes were issued for a few names but for multiple seats. I ended up with two Egyptians who were upgraded to First Class just before we left (at just after 0500), so had the row to myself.
We took off. Normally that’s where I would end, but about half-way through the runway run, the whole plane slewed to the side and everyone looked at each other and eyes were raised and fingers were crossed. We made it – otherwise this couldn’t have been written.
Bob then made comment that after getting his suitcase and having everything, he decided to only take a small bag with him for the Nile cruise, and then lost a corkscrew and other things because they were picked up in the detectors (not in hold luggage, as he didn’t have any).
The flight to Aswan was made in relative calm and the sun rose not long before we crossed the High Dam, circled over Lake Nasser and then came in for a landing. We were just about to think the pilot was getting better when, immediately after our wheels touched, the plane slewed right and left before repeating the procedure as the engines reversed thrust and we all held our breath again. We made it (heaven knows how because I don’t) and, after landing, got into a bus to travel about one hundred metres to the terminal. Here we got and claimed our luggage – or in some cases what was left of it, as for a few, there was damage. For one couple, the handle had been torn off. A porter loaded it into the bus and we were off – to see the High Dam.
This was a great piece of engineering, built by Egyptians under the supervision of Russians after a deal with the West fell through. It stores a lot of water and generates a lot of power, but I can’t help wondering at what cost. There now is no annual flooding, so no deposit of silt (with its long-term effects on the fertility of the Nile valley) downstream, yet all that silt now must be left in the dam, lessening the storage each year. Also, the Nubians displaced are now souvenir sellers, which does not lend this graceful group of people a great stature in the eyes of visitors.
We then headed off to take a boat to Phillae, where we saw temples which had been moved from the original island to their new location. Boats taking tourists formed veritable flotillas and the souvenir sellers came on the boats, not to waste a moment when sales could be made.
On the island we got a tour of the temples and the story of the flooding of the original site and tours undertaken by boat around columns which we were able to walk around. The site was magnificent, and when we had a (short) time to walk around and look, full of ambience. Again, too soon, we had to board the boat and return to the bus.
At this point, we headed off to the quarry, where an unfinished obelisk of well over a thousand tonnes was all that remained of many obelisks and other items which had been created here and then floated down the Nile (to Luxor, Cairo and other places, and eventually to many places through out the world). We had to leave here by 1100 to be in convey to go to Abu Simbel, so those who were not going (and instead going straight to the ship) departed to travel by a minibus while we gathered together (once everyone finally arrived).
The convoy was a police vehicle, police aboard buses with tourists, taxis and private cars and finally another police vehicle at the end. We headed out and into the desert, today travelling at a more sedate 100 kilometres per hour.
The desert was more like a real sandy desert, but with settlements, oases and canals, it looks like the area may soon be settled and under agriculture. We passed the early-morning convoy returning after about an hour or so. There were many places which were isolated and occasional police check points and we finally arrived at Abu Simbel for a needed toilet stop and our tour of the temples.
We walked around to a view of the lake and a mound, and were told to keep our eyes on the path and the lake. Then, at once, we were all told to look to the left and see the temple – and a magnificent sight it was, all the more because it had been moved to there. Once again we couldn’t take photos inside, so that will have to be left to later to explain, or to see through commercial views. It was truly a testament to what can be done by sheer manpower, as its size is large even today. Next to it is a smaller temple, but only in size, not in impact. As was now the norm, the just under two hours we had was not sufficient to do them justice, but we had to leave to accompany the convey back to Aswan.
Darkness fell during our return journey and it was after 1900 by the time we returned to Aswan and the ship. Just before dinner, I ran into two Americans, Chris and Sheila, who I had seen in the airport. They were doing an independent tour of Egypt, joining different groups to see different features, but had not seen Abu Simbel. We talked about touring and then separated for dinner.
Not long after dinner I went off to my cabin and to bed.
Thursday, November 20, 2008
7 November
Today was business, so it was awake by 0515, pack and prepare and leave the suitcase outside. Down for breakfast by 0600 to find no-one else there yet – but they were all there within a few minutes (okay, not Lin or Sue, but everyone else). It was to be an early departure, so no-one hung around long.
We were on the bus by 0700, but a few were later and we left at 0710. In town we picked up our police guard and escort and headed out through El Alamein, after which we turned south. We had to stop for a toilet/drink break about 1000, but it was unsettling to find that the escort and guard had to check the buildings and the toilets before we could leave the bus. And things got worse, as an errant rat was noticed to run through the café building while people were lined up buying food. Ah well, that’s the pleasure (and education) of travel – at least his name wasn’t Basil.
Back on the bus we headed off (at considerable speed, mainly because of our escorts) and arrived soon at the Wadi el Natron. Here we were shown over a Coptic monastery by a few monks, some camera-shy but others very out-going. Apart from many interesting things about the monastery and the religion, one monk explained that monks had to be celibate (to concentrate on their duties) but priests had to be married (so they could understand what life was about). Here I also got the chance to show how badly I could play the cymbals.
After an all-too-brief visit, we had to leave and so we boarded the bus and set off to Cairo.
We entered Cairo by a familiar route past the pyramids, paused while shopping ordered a few days before was delivered and then went to the bazaar. Here we had a short time for looking (not really enough for shopping, although some still managed to make it) and had to be back to catch the bus by 1610.
Now time was tight – we had to get to the hotel (different from the one we had stayed in before) and then return (yes, return) to the pyramids for the Sound and Light Show by 1830. We arrived at the hotel by 1450 and then, after a quick comfort break, we were off by 1715. We went by different and back roads and made it to the show by 1825 – just in time.
The show was very interesting and the hour it took went by very quickly. We were out and on the bus quickly and then returned to the hotel before 2015.
I couldn’t find my room and then had a porter rush to help me – and then wait for his E£2 tip (he wouldn’t leave until I paid up). Then, knowing I had to be up early the next morning (we were flying to Aswan and had to be up VERY early), I tried to get to sleep. The only problem – a party (actually a wedding) was nearly right outside my window! Sometime (between 2115 and 0100) I drifted off.
We were on the bus by 0700, but a few were later and we left at 0710. In town we picked up our police guard and escort and headed out through El Alamein, after which we turned south. We had to stop for a toilet/drink break about 1000, but it was unsettling to find that the escort and guard had to check the buildings and the toilets before we could leave the bus. And things got worse, as an errant rat was noticed to run through the café building while people were lined up buying food. Ah well, that’s the pleasure (and education) of travel – at least his name wasn’t Basil.
Back on the bus we headed off (at considerable speed, mainly because of our escorts) and arrived soon at the Wadi el Natron. Here we were shown over a Coptic monastery by a few monks, some camera-shy but others very out-going. Apart from many interesting things about the monastery and the religion, one monk explained that monks had to be celibate (to concentrate on their duties) but priests had to be married (so they could understand what life was about). Here I also got the chance to show how badly I could play the cymbals.
After an all-too-brief visit, we had to leave and so we boarded the bus and set off to Cairo.
We entered Cairo by a familiar route past the pyramids, paused while shopping ordered a few days before was delivered and then went to the bazaar. Here we had a short time for looking (not really enough for shopping, although some still managed to make it) and had to be back to catch the bus by 1610.
Now time was tight – we had to get to the hotel (different from the one we had stayed in before) and then return (yes, return) to the pyramids for the Sound and Light Show by 1830. We arrived at the hotel by 1450 and then, after a quick comfort break, we were off by 1715. We went by different and back roads and made it to the show by 1825 – just in time.
The show was very interesting and the hour it took went by very quickly. We were out and on the bus quickly and then returned to the hotel before 2015.
I couldn’t find my room and then had a porter rush to help me – and then wait for his E£2 tip (he wouldn’t leave until I paid up). Then, knowing I had to be up early the next morning (we were flying to Aswan and had to be up VERY early), I tried to get to sleep. The only problem – a party (actually a wedding) was nearly right outside my window! Sometime (between 2115 and 0100) I drifted off.
6 November
We had a quiet day today, so I got up at 0700 and brought the washing in. Hanging outside had allowed it all to dry, so for once I was up with all the laundry.
After showering and dressing, it was down for another leisurely breakfast, with the occasional chat to some who I had met last night. We headed out at 1000 to Agiba Beach, where reputedly Cleopatra and Mark Anthony had their dalliances. It was deserted apart from us tourists and the scene was both inspiring because of the history and breathtaking because of the beauty.
After a time there, we headed back into town to visit Rommel’s cave and museum. Again we had our policeman guard with us and we stopped just out of town to see the cave on our right. We went through (it is only small and has little inside except an ambience) and then were able to see the town to our south. We were on a spit extending to the west, whereas the spit the hotel was on extended to the east. There were still concrete blocks on the beach, whether recent or from WWII.
We then headed back into town for shopping again (for lunch supplies) before we went back to the hotel. I decided to walk over to Cleopatra’s Beach (which was to the west of where I had walked the day before). It was about six hundred metres to the west and a lot nicer beach, though there was a lot of rock there. After a few photos, and another greeting from the builder, I went back to the hotel.
This time I had trouble with the Internet connection and found Jon, another on the same tour, was having problems too. We spent most of the afternoon trying to get through (unsuccessfully) and ended up chatting away, and with others passing by as well. Then it was down to the beach for yet another glorious sunset before dinner. Here, as we finished, we noted our details for a contact sheet and also filled in details for Cosmos. I got my laptop and showed pictures I had taken earlier in the day and then showed others pictures of Australia. I also chatted with others who were on a “Battlefield” tour, including the lady who had spread her father’s ashes.
Back in my room by 2200, I processed the rest of the photos but resigned myself to not being able to upload them. I also did washing of today’s clothes, and so will not have to launder again until I get home. Then it was to sleep.
After showering and dressing, it was down for another leisurely breakfast, with the occasional chat to some who I had met last night. We headed out at 1000 to Agiba Beach, where reputedly Cleopatra and Mark Anthony had their dalliances. It was deserted apart from us tourists and the scene was both inspiring because of the history and breathtaking because of the beauty.
After a time there, we headed back into town to visit Rommel’s cave and museum. Again we had our policeman guard with us and we stopped just out of town to see the cave on our right. We went through (it is only small and has little inside except an ambience) and then were able to see the town to our south. We were on a spit extending to the west, whereas the spit the hotel was on extended to the east. There were still concrete blocks on the beach, whether recent or from WWII.
We then headed back into town for shopping again (for lunch supplies) before we went back to the hotel. I decided to walk over to Cleopatra’s Beach (which was to the west of where I had walked the day before). It was about six hundred metres to the west and a lot nicer beach, though there was a lot of rock there. After a few photos, and another greeting from the builder, I went back to the hotel.
This time I had trouble with the Internet connection and found Jon, another on the same tour, was having problems too. We spent most of the afternoon trying to get through (unsuccessfully) and ended up chatting away, and with others passing by as well. Then it was down to the beach for yet another glorious sunset before dinner. Here, as we finished, we noted our details for a contact sheet and also filled in details for Cosmos. I got my laptop and showed pictures I had taken earlier in the day and then showed others pictures of Australia. I also chatted with others who were on a “Battlefield” tour, including the lady who had spread her father’s ashes.
Back in my room by 2200, I processed the rest of the photos but resigned myself to not being able to upload them. I also did washing of today’s clothes, and so will not have to launder again until I get home. Then it was to sleep.
5 November
Today was the day we left Alexandria, so it was up earlier at 0530, prepare and pack everything, then shower and dress and, with the suitcase out before 0630, I was down for breakfast. After a more leisurely breakfast than I really wanted, it was back to the room, finish and then pack the backpack and check the room.
Down in the lobby and waiting, I ran into an Italian man here on business as he left (and then again, when he had forgotten some papers and had to return and then leave again), so we said goodbye. Then it was a matter of sighting the luggage and it was packed into the bus. Our first trip was not too long – just over the road, but a nearly two kilometre long journey by the time we came out, drove along and then had to turn around at the first break to return to the Montaza Royal Palace grounds (just opposite the hotel). We had a drive inside, then stopped to stretch and take some photographs before a final drive through Alexandria before we left, heading west along the Mediterranean coast. One point had to be clarified – no lunch today as we had it yesterday, and that made for more sensible travelling, as there weren’t any suitable venues along the way.
We set off along the coast to see many resorts there, between the road and the beach. The towns were generally south of the road, in the more arid area, while the resorts were in the areas with what looked like attractive beaches, though we couldn’t really see them. The resorts were self-contained, with shopping areas inside, as well as all facilities, but they were closed for the winter. Some were for foreigners, but most were for better-off Egyptians from Cairo. Apparently some were for women, with all female staff.
We arrived at El Alamein later in the morning, where there was a war cemetery, a small museum and, only a short distance away, more resorts. It seemed incongruous to have this monument to such fierce battles now within close proximity to pleasure places. But, such is the way of the world.
At the museum we had a short recorded commentary on the chronology of the battles in the area, then wandered around to have a look. The vehicles outside had been painted, but otherwise neglected, and signs showed that native English speakers had not proof-read them.
After leaving the museum, we went to the War Cemetery and had some time there. The significance varied depending upon how this area fitted into family history, but it was a moving experience to see the graves out in this barren land. There was a monument to Australian soldiers just outside the cemetery.
We returned to the main road and then continued on towards Marsa Matrouh (the spelling varies depending upon which signs are read). Before we entered into the area, we stopped to pick up a policeman to travel in the bus with us (he was in plain clothes, but had an Uzi under his jacket and a few spare magazines on the other side). We also had a police escort and then stopped in the town to get any supplies we needed, as the hotel was a far distance from town and not the cheapest for things. We drove out to the hotel, quite a nice place, which had a few next to it being completed (and along our drive in the morning, there were a lot of resort still not completed). Here we unloaded from the bus, tagged our luggage in the lobby and then had the afternoon free.
Success for me – I found there was WiFi (but only in the cafe and lobby) FREE!
After settling in I walked over the road to see the beach – not much sand, but very scenic rocks and, judging by the people there, good fishing. I took a few photos, came back (meeting a friendly native along the way, who I found out later was a builder on the site next door) and then uploaded some photos. The connection was not too fast, but allowed my to upload my blogs and some photos.
Just before sunset I went down to the beach and chatted with others, while getting some good shots of the sun across the inlet. The hotel was on the north side of an inlet, with the town on the south and east side.
After that it was dinner, and then the chance to upload a few more photos. At this time I spoke to a few people going past and one was the friend of a woman who was out here to spread her father’s ashes in the position where his whole unit (except him) were killed by one shell. His wishes were that when he died, he would be able to be with his mates where they died.
Quite late I went off to bed, with washing hanging out on the line provided.
Down in the lobby and waiting, I ran into an Italian man here on business as he left (and then again, when he had forgotten some papers and had to return and then leave again), so we said goodbye. Then it was a matter of sighting the luggage and it was packed into the bus. Our first trip was not too long – just over the road, but a nearly two kilometre long journey by the time we came out, drove along and then had to turn around at the first break to return to the Montaza Royal Palace grounds (just opposite the hotel). We had a drive inside, then stopped to stretch and take some photographs before a final drive through Alexandria before we left, heading west along the Mediterranean coast. One point had to be clarified – no lunch today as we had it yesterday, and that made for more sensible travelling, as there weren’t any suitable venues along the way.
We set off along the coast to see many resorts there, between the road and the beach. The towns were generally south of the road, in the more arid area, while the resorts were in the areas with what looked like attractive beaches, though we couldn’t really see them. The resorts were self-contained, with shopping areas inside, as well as all facilities, but they were closed for the winter. Some were for foreigners, but most were for better-off Egyptians from Cairo. Apparently some were for women, with all female staff.
We arrived at El Alamein later in the morning, where there was a war cemetery, a small museum and, only a short distance away, more resorts. It seemed incongruous to have this monument to such fierce battles now within close proximity to pleasure places. But, such is the way of the world.
At the museum we had a short recorded commentary on the chronology of the battles in the area, then wandered around to have a look. The vehicles outside had been painted, but otherwise neglected, and signs showed that native English speakers had not proof-read them.
After leaving the museum, we went to the War Cemetery and had some time there. The significance varied depending upon how this area fitted into family history, but it was a moving experience to see the graves out in this barren land. There was a monument to Australian soldiers just outside the cemetery.
We returned to the main road and then continued on towards Marsa Matrouh (the spelling varies depending upon which signs are read). Before we entered into the area, we stopped to pick up a policeman to travel in the bus with us (he was in plain clothes, but had an Uzi under his jacket and a few spare magazines on the other side). We also had a police escort and then stopped in the town to get any supplies we needed, as the hotel was a far distance from town and not the cheapest for things. We drove out to the hotel, quite a nice place, which had a few next to it being completed (and along our drive in the morning, there were a lot of resort still not completed). Here we unloaded from the bus, tagged our luggage in the lobby and then had the afternoon free.
Success for me – I found there was WiFi (but only in the cafe and lobby) FREE!
After settling in I walked over the road to see the beach – not much sand, but very scenic rocks and, judging by the people there, good fishing. I took a few photos, came back (meeting a friendly native along the way, who I found out later was a builder on the site next door) and then uploaded some photos. The connection was not too fast, but allowed my to upload my blogs and some photos.
Just before sunset I went down to the beach and chatted with others, while getting some good shots of the sun across the inlet. The hotel was on the north side of an inlet, with the town on the south and east side.
After that it was dinner, and then the chance to upload a few more photos. At this time I spoke to a few people going past and one was the friend of a woman who was out here to spread her father’s ashes in the position where his whole unit (except him) were killed by one shell. His wishes were that when he died, he would be able to be with his mates where they died.
Quite late I went off to bed, with washing hanging out on the line provided.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
4 November
Today was the day in Alexandria, so I was awake at 0545, finally up at 0600 and, after the usual preparations, I was down for breakfast by 0630. After a very leisurely breakfast I was back up at 0745 to finish preparations and be down for the bus at 0755. We finally left at 0810 and headed off – to the right for a kilometre past the palace to do a U-turn and go back past the hotel. We drove through the city and did a tour before arriving at the catacombs, where there were no photos allowed. We went down into one burial area, currently believed to be that of one family and then had a look at another tomb which had been moved there, before we headed off through back streets with a banana to eat until we arrived at Pompey’s pillar (the tale here proved the pillar needed to get a head to be famous). After the story of that, we looked around the site of the temple, medical area and library. We then progressed to the Fort of Qait, where we heard about the lighthouse(s) and the fort consequently constructed here. The waterfront was lined with souvenir sellers who can best be described as treating each other with animosity. I got a few things to give out when I got home (so I can’t say what they were or cost, in case a reader gets one). We left and had lunch at a seafood restaurant. While waiting we had a persistent carpet salesman who refused to give in despite nonsensical queries from some people and eventually sold two carpets to one of our number. There was also a good view of the fishing fleet, at anchor during the day.
After the lunch, Hesham got a call and we soon learned that Bob’s luggage had been found and should be at the hotel tonight.
Pur next stop was the Alexandria library, where we had a tour and look around. I succumbed to temptation at the library shop and bought a book about the Cairo Museum, which we had only had a cursory look around despite the interesting material there. It’s quite heavy, so I’ll have to carry it as reading material on the flight home.
It was then a quick drive back to the hotel and more bananas were distributed along the way.
At the hotel I went up to my room to get rid of superfluous material, then went for a walk with Sue and Lynn along the beachfront. Along the way we ran into Fifi and Joelle, and we all went to the supermarket to look around. I got some stuff there, then had a coffee with Sue and chips after Lynn had bought some (she made me have them). Then, after dark and with a good breeze, we went back to the hotel. I went to my room, processed the day’s photos and partially wrote my blogs, then went to sleep (some of the washing was not yet dry).
After the lunch, Hesham got a call and we soon learned that Bob’s luggage had been found and should be at the hotel tonight.
Pur next stop was the Alexandria library, where we had a tour and look around. I succumbed to temptation at the library shop and bought a book about the Cairo Museum, which we had only had a cursory look around despite the interesting material there. It’s quite heavy, so I’ll have to carry it as reading material on the flight home.
It was then a quick drive back to the hotel and more bananas were distributed along the way.
At the hotel I went up to my room to get rid of superfluous material, then went for a walk with Sue and Lynn along the beachfront. Along the way we ran into Fifi and Joelle, and we all went to the supermarket to look around. I got some stuff there, then had a coffee with Sue and chips after Lynn had bought some (she made me have them). Then, after dark and with a good breeze, we went back to the hotel. I went to my room, processed the day’s photos and partially wrote my blogs, then went to sleep (some of the washing was not yet dry).
Thursday, November 6, 2008
3 November
Today was a moving day, so it was up at 0600 and pack (making sure the suitcase was out before 0700) and then down for breakfast at 0630. The breakfast room/restaurant we used today was the public one, so we were assigned the “smoking area”.
After breakfast it was back to the room, finish packing and do the last check (something I will not miss when I am back home) and out to the lobby.
Here we have to check our bags are out and are ours before they are packed on the bus. Any unidentified luggage doesn’t come. The only problem for our part was that Bob’s luggage hadn’t come yet, and we were into the third day.
On our way out, we called in to visit Saladin’s citadel, where the main thing we saw was the Muhammad Ali Mosque, which is still being used. Here Hesham went through a number of points abut the Muslim religion. We had a little time to photograph the old city from here before we went back to the bus, this time under David’s supervision. He lost a few, so promptly lost that position).
Then it was through old Cairo and into the Coptic area, to see the first church there, the Virgin Mary crypt (where Joseph, Mary and Jesus were reputed to have sheltered during Herod’s proclaimed period) and then onto a synagogue (no photos at either), which had also been a church before being restored to use.
The logic of photos or no photos escapes me at the moment, but I may understand it later (or at least rant more about it later).
We headed off to Soiree’s for lunch. While waiting in line, a woman upstairs kept gesturing that the food wasn’t very good. However, once we were in and seated, then examined the buffet, it was okay. A feature is that mos tof the places we have eaten have mainly western European food, perhaps because of their clientele, though some of our number would like to taste authentic Egyptian cuisine. I’m not fussy because I haven’t had a stomach upset and will try not to have one.
After lunch we set off through Cairo and to a papyrus institute, where we got a demonstration of how papyrus is made and then a show of what sorts of papyrus are available.
Once we finished there, it was off to Alexandria along the “Desert Highway”.
There was a lot of development beside the road and I couldn’t believe how much water was going to be used there. Also, unlike Turkey, there didn’t seem to be a lot of use of solar power, although our guide assured us it was being used extensively. We drove into darkness after seeing the setting sun and arrived at Alexandria about 1930. After identifying the luggage, we went to our rooms for me to do some washing. It was down for dinner at 2000 and then I walked to the supermarket for a look around, with Bob and Devika. Bob’s luggage still hadn’t come, so he was looking for clothes and a temporary bag. Soon it was back to the hotel and I enquired about the Internet, but I decided it was a no-no because of the cost and time (if the connection cuts out before all the photos load, then none load!).
Back in the room, I processed all the photos, did some more washing and then went to bed too late to write my blog for the day (it got done in Mansa Matrouh).
After breakfast it was back to the room, finish packing and do the last check (something I will not miss when I am back home) and out to the lobby.
Here we have to check our bags are out and are ours before they are packed on the bus. Any unidentified luggage doesn’t come. The only problem for our part was that Bob’s luggage hadn’t come yet, and we were into the third day.
On our way out, we called in to visit Saladin’s citadel, where the main thing we saw was the Muhammad Ali Mosque, which is still being used. Here Hesham went through a number of points abut the Muslim religion. We had a little time to photograph the old city from here before we went back to the bus, this time under David’s supervision. He lost a few, so promptly lost that position).
Then it was through old Cairo and into the Coptic area, to see the first church there, the Virgin Mary crypt (where Joseph, Mary and Jesus were reputed to have sheltered during Herod’s proclaimed period) and then onto a synagogue (no photos at either), which had also been a church before being restored to use.
The logic of photos or no photos escapes me at the moment, but I may understand it later (or at least rant more about it later).
We headed off to Soiree’s for lunch. While waiting in line, a woman upstairs kept gesturing that the food wasn’t very good. However, once we were in and seated, then examined the buffet, it was okay. A feature is that mos tof the places we have eaten have mainly western European food, perhaps because of their clientele, though some of our number would like to taste authentic Egyptian cuisine. I’m not fussy because I haven’t had a stomach upset and will try not to have one.
After lunch we set off through Cairo and to a papyrus institute, where we got a demonstration of how papyrus is made and then a show of what sorts of papyrus are available.
Once we finished there, it was off to Alexandria along the “Desert Highway”.
There was a lot of development beside the road and I couldn’t believe how much water was going to be used there. Also, unlike Turkey, there didn’t seem to be a lot of use of solar power, although our guide assured us it was being used extensively. We drove into darkness after seeing the setting sun and arrived at Alexandria about 1930. After identifying the luggage, we went to our rooms for me to do some washing. It was down for dinner at 2000 and then I walked to the supermarket for a look around, with Bob and Devika. Bob’s luggage still hadn’t come, so he was looking for clothes and a temporary bag. Soon it was back to the hotel and I enquired about the Internet, but I decided it was a no-no because of the cost and time (if the connection cuts out before all the photos load, then none load!).
Back in the room, I processed all the photos, did some more washing and then went to bed too late to write my blog for the day (it got done in Mansa Matrouh).
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
2 November
Today it was up at 0630 and the first thing I noticed was that the clothes were not yet dry – a consequence of running the air conditioner. Either the clothes get warm and dry or I get too warm and dry and don’t sleep well.
After the usual preparations I was down for breakfast by 0700, when I sat with a couple from Sydney and then, after they left, with Lynn, Sue, Devika and Bob
In the restaurant we started a briefing after 0800 which did not finish until 0905. We met our tour guide Hesham, but we were all ready to go. Because of all the delays, the bus was not off until 0935.
We set off through Cairo traffic and finally reached the Cairo museum by 1030. Here we waited, got our tickets and our briefing (we already knew no photos, so there aren’t any) we were in by 1100.
We had a guided tour until 1230 but the remaining hour was only long enough to wander past all the exhibits on the ground floor before we had to be out by 1300. We were soon on the bus and had falafels for lunch on the bus on our way to the pyramids.
Once we arrived at the pyramids we had to undergo checks then walked to the base of the first pyramid and a chance to climb a little way to get our photos. In a way I am glad that we couldn’t go any higher, as I think millions of tourists would do what time and the desert sands couldn’t. We headed off to the panorama view where we had a group photo and a few had camel rides. Then it was off to the second pyramid by 1610 and we had a look around while some went inside. This I didn’t do because eof my reservations about irreparably damaging something so precious.
We finally headed off to the sphinx; but it was closed by the time we got there. I managed to get around to the side to get some photos, which proved very expensive as it cost me forty Egyptian pounds to get there to take them. We then went to a (pricey) souvenir shop and finally ended up at a small market-type shop, “Got to Run” to shop for drinks and small requisites. Finally we were back to the hotel in time to get ready for dinner and download pictures, charge batteries and clean my shoes.
By 1840 I was down and sat with David and Tina and Sue and English couple while waiting for the bus. We were off at 1915 for Nile cruise with dinner. As soon as we arrived at 2000, the boat was off. It was a good dinner and there was a great view of Cairo as we went along the Nile. There was music followed by a belly dancer (who got a number up to dance with her, much to the amusement of thee rest of the audience). She was followed by a Dervish dancer who performed some miraculous routines and, far too soon, we docked at 2150. We were back at the hotel by 2215 after which I prepared for bed, summarised blog, processed photos and was finally in bed by 2330.
After the usual preparations I was down for breakfast by 0700, when I sat with a couple from Sydney and then, after they left, with Lynn, Sue, Devika and Bob
In the restaurant we started a briefing after 0800 which did not finish until 0905. We met our tour guide Hesham, but we were all ready to go. Because of all the delays, the bus was not off until 0935.
We set off through Cairo traffic and finally reached the Cairo museum by 1030. Here we waited, got our tickets and our briefing (we already knew no photos, so there aren’t any) we were in by 1100.
We had a guided tour until 1230 but the remaining hour was only long enough to wander past all the exhibits on the ground floor before we had to be out by 1300. We were soon on the bus and had falafels for lunch on the bus on our way to the pyramids.
Once we arrived at the pyramids we had to undergo checks then walked to the base of the first pyramid and a chance to climb a little way to get our photos. In a way I am glad that we couldn’t go any higher, as I think millions of tourists would do what time and the desert sands couldn’t. We headed off to the panorama view where we had a group photo and a few had camel rides. Then it was off to the second pyramid by 1610 and we had a look around while some went inside. This I didn’t do because eof my reservations about irreparably damaging something so precious.
We finally headed off to the sphinx; but it was closed by the time we got there. I managed to get around to the side to get some photos, which proved very expensive as it cost me forty Egyptian pounds to get there to take them. We then went to a (pricey) souvenir shop and finally ended up at a small market-type shop, “Got to Run” to shop for drinks and small requisites. Finally we were back to the hotel in time to get ready for dinner and download pictures, charge batteries and clean my shoes.
By 1840 I was down and sat with David and Tina and Sue and English couple while waiting for the bus. We were off at 1915 for Nile cruise with dinner. As soon as we arrived at 2000, the boat was off. It was a good dinner and there was a great view of Cairo as we went along the Nile. There was music followed by a belly dancer (who got a number up to dance with her, much to the amusement of thee rest of the audience). She was followed by a Dervish dancer who performed some miraculous routines and, far too soon, we docked at 2150. We were back at the hotel by 2215 after which I prepared for bed, summarised blog, processed photos and was finally in bed by 2330.
1 November
I slept in, although it wasn’t quite as satisfying as I would have hoped as I had the iPod in my ears all night to mask the traffic noise. Then, just after 0800 I was up and prepared myself for the coming day, heading over to breakfast at 0830.
There was a very wide selection, including toast, so I could enjoy my Vegemite in its proper environment. I took some time over eating, as the day until 1300 is very limited. The weather outside is slightly humid (I hoped that it would have been dry), the traffic on the freeway is providing a cacophony of noise but the people staying here are not prone to answering either a “Hello” or a “G’day”. It seems the larger the place, the more reserved the people are.
Just on that, this place offers a “turn-down service” by request. I really can’t think of anyone, except disabled, who really need such a service. When it happened on the Moscow – St Petersburg cruise, I couldn’t help thinking what a waste of time and effort. It is different on trains such as the Ghan and the Indian-Pacific, where your seat during the day becomes your bed overnight and the staff turn it down and prepare it while you are eating.
Now at 1000 I have repacked (again unnecessary if I had been staying as planned) and will wander around later.
After a look around I read my Lonely Planet guide to Turkey until about 1130 and then checked out and left my bags at the luggage area ad kept reading until about 1250, whereupon I wandered back and got my bags out. At this stage I met two ladies from New Zealand who were in the same position as myself – they had booked in early, to the hotel we were to leave from, so they could settle in, explore the area and become familiar with the surrounds. At 1300 we were all ready to leave. And at 1400 we were all ready to leave. And at 1425 we were all ready to leave. However, still no transport. I rang the number in the Cosmos booklet but received a nonsensical reply. I asked the desk to try – they found it was a wrong number. I asked if they could chase it up (from the booking details for all of us) and ten minutes later they had the correct number. Walleed (I think) then said it would be a few minutes as the car had been involved in an accident. By about 1440 the car and Walleed turned up. We all got in and then were driven a back way to the hotel we should have been in (which turned out to only be about seven hundred metres from the hotel we had been in). Here we quickly got out, were checked in and went to our rooms. I asked about Internet access (buy time at so many Egyptian pounds per hour – no thank you) and the lady I had promised to meet and was told the room she was in (tried to ring – no answer and tried to knock – no answer) so ended up going for a walk. Somehow I ended up being shown around the block by a perfume salesman. Although the perfume was nice, I wasn’t after any, but (surprise, surprise) they did have a papyrus shop next door. The prices seemed reasonable, so I got some for Fran. Then I wandered back to the hotel to find Devika (the lady I had promised to meet) waiting in the lobby, as she had checked and found I still wasn’t checked in (when I was, two hours before). She saw my papyrus and wanted some, so we went out there to the same shop. On the way we went up to a café on the balcony of either this or the hotel next door, where the pyramids were the only background visible. At the shop she selected some papyrus and then was convinced to have a look at the perfumes. To my surprise I ended up buying some, and some small shaped bottles, so there are some who will get them as filled perfume bottles, most likely as a hand-delivered present.
The saving grace was I got a free drink of coke each time, and am now looked on by them as a “middle-man”.
Back at the hotel Sue and Lyn had not checked in (as far as we could find out, so we chatted while keeping an eye out for them. By 1900 they still had not arrived so we went in to have dinner – and ended up with Bob from Georgia, who had done seven Cosmos tours already and now was about to start his eighth. After a pleasant dinner, we all retried and I did some washing (second-last I hope) and then went to bed, to listen to some music and get a good night’s sleep.
There was a very wide selection, including toast, so I could enjoy my Vegemite in its proper environment. I took some time over eating, as the day until 1300 is very limited. The weather outside is slightly humid (I hoped that it would have been dry), the traffic on the freeway is providing a cacophony of noise but the people staying here are not prone to answering either a “Hello” or a “G’day”. It seems the larger the place, the more reserved the people are.
Just on that, this place offers a “turn-down service” by request. I really can’t think of anyone, except disabled, who really need such a service. When it happened on the Moscow – St Petersburg cruise, I couldn’t help thinking what a waste of time and effort. It is different on trains such as the Ghan and the Indian-Pacific, where your seat during the day becomes your bed overnight and the staff turn it down and prepare it while you are eating.
Now at 1000 I have repacked (again unnecessary if I had been staying as planned) and will wander around later.
After a look around I read my Lonely Planet guide to Turkey until about 1130 and then checked out and left my bags at the luggage area ad kept reading until about 1250, whereupon I wandered back and got my bags out. At this stage I met two ladies from New Zealand who were in the same position as myself – they had booked in early, to the hotel we were to leave from, so they could settle in, explore the area and become familiar with the surrounds. At 1300 we were all ready to leave. And at 1400 we were all ready to leave. And at 1425 we were all ready to leave. However, still no transport. I rang the number in the Cosmos booklet but received a nonsensical reply. I asked the desk to try – they found it was a wrong number. I asked if they could chase it up (from the booking details for all of us) and ten minutes later they had the correct number. Walleed (I think) then said it would be a few minutes as the car had been involved in an accident. By about 1440 the car and Walleed turned up. We all got in and then were driven a back way to the hotel we should have been in (which turned out to only be about seven hundred metres from the hotel we had been in). Here we quickly got out, were checked in and went to our rooms. I asked about Internet access (buy time at so many Egyptian pounds per hour – no thank you) and the lady I had promised to meet and was told the room she was in (tried to ring – no answer and tried to knock – no answer) so ended up going for a walk. Somehow I ended up being shown around the block by a perfume salesman. Although the perfume was nice, I wasn’t after any, but (surprise, surprise) they did have a papyrus shop next door. The prices seemed reasonable, so I got some for Fran. Then I wandered back to the hotel to find Devika (the lady I had promised to meet) waiting in the lobby, as she had checked and found I still wasn’t checked in (when I was, two hours before). She saw my papyrus and wanted some, so we went out there to the same shop. On the way we went up to a café on the balcony of either this or the hotel next door, where the pyramids were the only background visible. At the shop she selected some papyrus and then was convinced to have a look at the perfumes. To my surprise I ended up buying some, and some small shaped bottles, so there are some who will get them as filled perfume bottles, most likely as a hand-delivered present.
The saving grace was I got a free drink of coke each time, and am now looked on by them as a “middle-man”.
Back at the hotel Sue and Lyn had not checked in (as far as we could find out, so we chatted while keeping an eye out for them. By 1900 they still had not arrived so we went in to have dinner – and ended up with Bob from Georgia, who had done seven Cosmos tours already and now was about to start his eighth. After a pleasant dinner, we all retried and I did some washing (second-last I hope) and then went to bed, to listen to some music and get a good night’s sleep.
31 October
Blog 31 October
Today – a day with so much promise and so little fulfilled!
I followed my routine and was up at 0625 and prepared and down for breakfast at 0700. During breakfast many goodbyes were said and many promises made (I wonder how many will be kept?) and then everyone started drifting off to whatever arrangements had been made.
I went up and packed, found my socks were still wet and had to pack them separately. Then I had a quandary with the posters I had bought – too large to tuck in with the laptop for safekeeping and to keep flat and nowhere in the case I could really guarantee they would stay flat, given the way airline employees pack luggage. I ended up with them between the tracksuit top and bottom and with my fingers crossed.
I was down at 0930 and checked out, to find Christine and Carol also waiting for a private car to the airport. A few minutes later down came Lou and Joan, also waiting – and all of us to go at 1000. As it turned out, it was a minibus, which should have cost us each a lot less, but only Lou went to fight for his change (but he did distribute it amongst us during the drive). At the airport, it looked as though the minibus might not get in, but it did and through we all went – to be faced with screening of all luggage before we got to the ticket desks. I had already seen it in Moscow so I wasn’t really upset, but the others hadn’t seen it before. I was nearly through, but then had to return to take my belt, shoes and watch off and pull the laptop out (but there had been no sign about that). Inside, we all said goodbye and headed off. Just to confuse, departure boards were different numbers of screen in different positions, so eventually we all found where our flights were. Mine, due out at 1425 and, I found out, a code share with Turkish Airlines (I was on EgyptAir), came up but with no check-in counter. Eventually, after flights nearly an hour later had come up with counters, mine did. I rushed there to find about twenty already there – a tour group. How they found out first I will never know (mainly because they were all Chinese). The person just ahead of me was an Australian, so we swapped a few notes on Turkey (and he gave me a few hints on Egypt) and in very short time we were up and checking in.
I had checked mine on the Internet and the codes I had weren’t coming up. A the desk I was right, but my suitcase, with less in it that when I left Melbourne, had somehow gained weight and went on the scales at 23 kilograms. I wasn’t charged extra (otherwise I would have called the veracity of the scales into question) and then I was out to go through passport control. This was quickly finished and then it was a matter of filling in time. I had a window seat, so I was happy that the early arrival had been worth it. For my two long-haul flights home I will see if I can get the window seat at the back, where there are only two seats and not three.
I went off to have some lunch and found Burger King, like Melbourne, charges extortionate prices – from 8,25 in Istanbul to 15 at the airport. However, it was still cheaper than what else was around, so I settled for it.
The lounge we were to leave from had its departure already for the earlier flight, so I went there, again to find large numbers already in there even though it was still showing the flight before. I noticed screening machines here, so like Moscow we were going to be “done” twice. I listened to my iPod as I couldn’t find a power point for the laptop (and I’m getting pretty good at finding them now). Then half an hour before the flight, the screening started. I got in line quickly, and with my previous experience was soon through with a minimum of fuss. Memo to self: when the after-screening lounge is small and the airconditioning is not turned on, wait till last. As a result, I and the other 199 sweltered for the fifteen minutes before we could board.
We ended up leaving over half an hour late, then had a good flight (but the windows were filthy and my photographs were not good) and the meal was even quite good. We landed at about 1645 and then pulled up in the middle of nowhere and had to wait for stairs and buses to arrive before we could get to the terminal.
For the first time, I was met before Immigration and Passport control. I introduced myself to my guide, who then informed me that I would be staying at a different hotel tonight and then change to the other about 1300 tomorrow. That annoyed me because I wanted to be familiar with the area and the hotel, walk around and see the sights, and then show Divika around tomorrow morning and thus have a useful day. Now I have lost an afternoon and a morning, which I can’t get back.
I quickly got through passport control and then had to wait a few minutes for my luggage. I overheard an Australian accent and had a quick chat with two others before my suitcase arrived. My guide grabbed it and took it outside, then called for the car. It took a few minutes and then we were off.
The guide got out and left me with the driver to go to the hotel. Well. With mobile phone calls, lane changing, horn blowing and light flashing, we drove for over another hour. Our speed varied from walking pace to over 100 kilometres per hour. By the time we arrived I was wondering whether I should have jumped out at some stage for my safety, given the number of cars, trucks and buses he cut off and the number of pedestrians who jumped out of the way.
By 1820 we got to the hotel. Very flash, the Intercontinental Pyramids Park Cairo Resort Hotel. I wasn’t allowed to take my own bag, but then at the desk they weren’t sure if I was actually there. The driver got a call from the other guide and he spoke to the hotel desk clerk, who then found I was in, and I then said he had to leave a message for Divika at the hotel I should have been at. Then I enquired about Internet. Yes, WiFi – get a card at the Business Centre. That immediately turned me off, because last time my time cut out in the middle of uploading and I wasted all the time. However, I kept an open mind as I was walked around to my room. Quick spacious, reasonable facilities including tea and coffee – BUT NO MILK! They will go unused.
I unpacked and walked back to the front (a hike in itself). Yes, breakfast was included, on the second floor. To save confusion, I ascertained that this was the ground floor – only then to be told the hotel has no second floor. However, I’m pretty sure I know where it is and it’s from 0600 until 1000. There is no use in me being there early as I can’t do anything.
Off to the Business Centre. WiFi access at US$6 per thirty minutes – so that will have to wait. Back to the room, took some photos and then explored a little, to see here the papyrus that Fran wants is the equivalent of A$10 per piece! I’m in the high-priced area with no alternatives! I can only hope that the hotel tomorrow night is better located and I have the chance to look around in the afternoon. I am very upset, even though I’ll bet the guide thinks he has done me a favour, when he has actually done the exact opposite. The pool, the facilities, are of no use to me and the three things I wanted – to settle in early, get to know the neighbourhood and help the others when they arrive – I can’t do. I will complain when I am home, but it can’t help me though it may help others.
I ended up changing for bed, writing my blog, processing the photos and resetting the aircon from the 5°C that the previous occupant had set it on. Unfortunately my room backs on to an elevated freeway so there will be noise all night.
Never mind, to bed and to sleep (eventually).
But then again … I chose the bed from the two in the room, only to find long black hair already in it. As I have no hair that long, let alone black, I wondered, then chose to sleep in the other bed.
Today – a day with so much promise and so little fulfilled!
I followed my routine and was up at 0625 and prepared and down for breakfast at 0700. During breakfast many goodbyes were said and many promises made (I wonder how many will be kept?) and then everyone started drifting off to whatever arrangements had been made.
I went up and packed, found my socks were still wet and had to pack them separately. Then I had a quandary with the posters I had bought – too large to tuck in with the laptop for safekeeping and to keep flat and nowhere in the case I could really guarantee they would stay flat, given the way airline employees pack luggage. I ended up with them between the tracksuit top and bottom and with my fingers crossed.
I was down at 0930 and checked out, to find Christine and Carol also waiting for a private car to the airport. A few minutes later down came Lou and Joan, also waiting – and all of us to go at 1000. As it turned out, it was a minibus, which should have cost us each a lot less, but only Lou went to fight for his change (but he did distribute it amongst us during the drive). At the airport, it looked as though the minibus might not get in, but it did and through we all went – to be faced with screening of all luggage before we got to the ticket desks. I had already seen it in Moscow so I wasn’t really upset, but the others hadn’t seen it before. I was nearly through, but then had to return to take my belt, shoes and watch off and pull the laptop out (but there had been no sign about that). Inside, we all said goodbye and headed off. Just to confuse, departure boards were different numbers of screen in different positions, so eventually we all found where our flights were. Mine, due out at 1425 and, I found out, a code share with Turkish Airlines (I was on EgyptAir), came up but with no check-in counter. Eventually, after flights nearly an hour later had come up with counters, mine did. I rushed there to find about twenty already there – a tour group. How they found out first I will never know (mainly because they were all Chinese). The person just ahead of me was an Australian, so we swapped a few notes on Turkey (and he gave me a few hints on Egypt) and in very short time we were up and checking in.
I had checked mine on the Internet and the codes I had weren’t coming up. A the desk I was right, but my suitcase, with less in it that when I left Melbourne, had somehow gained weight and went on the scales at 23 kilograms. I wasn’t charged extra (otherwise I would have called the veracity of the scales into question) and then I was out to go through passport control. This was quickly finished and then it was a matter of filling in time. I had a window seat, so I was happy that the early arrival had been worth it. For my two long-haul flights home I will see if I can get the window seat at the back, where there are only two seats and not three.
I went off to have some lunch and found Burger King, like Melbourne, charges extortionate prices – from 8,25 in Istanbul to 15 at the airport. However, it was still cheaper than what else was around, so I settled for it.
The lounge we were to leave from had its departure already for the earlier flight, so I went there, again to find large numbers already in there even though it was still showing the flight before. I noticed screening machines here, so like Moscow we were going to be “done” twice. I listened to my iPod as I couldn’t find a power point for the laptop (and I’m getting pretty good at finding them now). Then half an hour before the flight, the screening started. I got in line quickly, and with my previous experience was soon through with a minimum of fuss. Memo to self: when the after-screening lounge is small and the airconditioning is not turned on, wait till last. As a result, I and the other 199 sweltered for the fifteen minutes before we could board.
We ended up leaving over half an hour late, then had a good flight (but the windows were filthy and my photographs were not good) and the meal was even quite good. We landed at about 1645 and then pulled up in the middle of nowhere and had to wait for stairs and buses to arrive before we could get to the terminal.
For the first time, I was met before Immigration and Passport control. I introduced myself to my guide, who then informed me that I would be staying at a different hotel tonight and then change to the other about 1300 tomorrow. That annoyed me because I wanted to be familiar with the area and the hotel, walk around and see the sights, and then show Divika around tomorrow morning and thus have a useful day. Now I have lost an afternoon and a morning, which I can’t get back.
I quickly got through passport control and then had to wait a few minutes for my luggage. I overheard an Australian accent and had a quick chat with two others before my suitcase arrived. My guide grabbed it and took it outside, then called for the car. It took a few minutes and then we were off.
The guide got out and left me with the driver to go to the hotel. Well. With mobile phone calls, lane changing, horn blowing and light flashing, we drove for over another hour. Our speed varied from walking pace to over 100 kilometres per hour. By the time we arrived I was wondering whether I should have jumped out at some stage for my safety, given the number of cars, trucks and buses he cut off and the number of pedestrians who jumped out of the way.
By 1820 we got to the hotel. Very flash, the Intercontinental Pyramids Park Cairo Resort Hotel. I wasn’t allowed to take my own bag, but then at the desk they weren’t sure if I was actually there. The driver got a call from the other guide and he spoke to the hotel desk clerk, who then found I was in, and I then said he had to leave a message for Divika at the hotel I should have been at. Then I enquired about Internet. Yes, WiFi – get a card at the Business Centre. That immediately turned me off, because last time my time cut out in the middle of uploading and I wasted all the time. However, I kept an open mind as I was walked around to my room. Quick spacious, reasonable facilities including tea and coffee – BUT NO MILK! They will go unused.
I unpacked and walked back to the front (a hike in itself). Yes, breakfast was included, on the second floor. To save confusion, I ascertained that this was the ground floor – only then to be told the hotel has no second floor. However, I’m pretty sure I know where it is and it’s from 0600 until 1000. There is no use in me being there early as I can’t do anything.
Off to the Business Centre. WiFi access at US$6 per thirty minutes – so that will have to wait. Back to the room, took some photos and then explored a little, to see here the papyrus that Fran wants is the equivalent of A$10 per piece! I’m in the high-priced area with no alternatives! I can only hope that the hotel tomorrow night is better located and I have the chance to look around in the afternoon. I am very upset, even though I’ll bet the guide thinks he has done me a favour, when he has actually done the exact opposite. The pool, the facilities, are of no use to me and the three things I wanted – to settle in early, get to know the neighbourhood and help the others when they arrive – I can’t do. I will complain when I am home, but it can’t help me though it may help others.
I ended up changing for bed, writing my blog, processing the photos and resetting the aircon from the 5°C that the previous occupant had set it on. Unfortunately my room backs on to an elevated freeway so there will be noise all night.
Never mind, to bed and to sleep (eventually).
But then again … I chose the bed from the two in the room, only to find long black hair already in it. As I have no hair that long, let alone black, I wondered, then chose to sleep in the other bed.
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