Another different day.
After rising early and finding no power in the room (I was to non compis mente to check the circuit breakers) I prepared and was down for breakfast by 0700. This time I remembered the Vegemite and started breakfast and was joined by Carol (after answering some emails). Our conversation was cojoined by a Canadian couple who split their time between Turkey and Canada – an interesting conversation.
My DVDs arrived and I left, as I had to find the Post Office and send most of my books back (too much weight). I eventually found it after ten minutes walking to find I could have reached it in three, which I did to return to the hotel (don’t post from Turkey if you can help it – horrendous parcel rates, but I had no choice).
Here I decided I would explore the Spice Market with Robert and Ali, so we all set off and reached it after not too many diversions. Walking through was slow as we were all taking photographs and looking at things. The disparity of “natural viagra” on sale at competing shops was interesting. The diversity of confectionary and the samples offered proved very interesting. I was drawn in to buying some small prints (which I intend to laminate and give as place mats) by others, and then bought too many as the price offered was too attractive.
We walked through more bazaar-type areas and finally ended up (after morning tea) at the Basilica Cistern. Here I left Robert to look and Ali to wait. I went to the Hippodrome and got some more pictures, then walked south-west from the Blue Mosque to the waterfront, past a lot of multi-storey wooden buildings. Walking along the waterfront I saw many more fishermen, interesting exercise equipment, barbecue spots in the middle of the lawns, the old city walls, cats with kittens, a balloon, many craft on the water and finally arrived outside the station by 1340. Here I had some lunch and got back to the hotel at 1410, where I ran into Monique (who had lost her mum) and Keith (who had lost his wife). Chris finally turned up after having walked back along the tram route.
We chatted, I went to my room and left my stuff, and decided I would have an easy and cheap afternoon. I went to the tram stop near the train station and bought a token, then caught the train to the south-western terminus, the north-eastern terminus and then back to the station. Along the way I chatted with three people – one man who had a leather business and lived mainly in Germany, a student who was studying management and wanted to become a stockbroker and a ship’s master who now handled ship sales.
When I returned to the hotel I booked a ride to the airport for tomorrow morning (I could have taken the tram, but I am past lugging everything with me if I can help it – I HAVE to do it enough without choosing to do it if I don’t have to), went to my room and reset the circuit breakers and then processed today’s photos, burned some more disks, charged batteries, wrote blogs and then finally went down to the lobby and uploaded the photos and blogs, checked emails and ended up back in my room to wash my shirts (and hope the rest of my clothes dry – which they haven’t so far) and then to bed for my last night in turkey, Istanbul and Europe!
Thursday, October 30, 2008
29 October
Another day with a difference – I awoke at 0515 with prayers amplified through the town and my room – after a noisy night with traffic just outside and sirens going just as I dropped off to sleep. SO I got up finally and after preparations was down ready for breakfast at 0630. I had collected some of my breakfast and was sitting opposite Phyllis (an early riser, who had nearly finished hers) and had gone back for the main course when there was a drama. Pat, a lady from England and Ray, her husband, had just walked into the restaurant when Pat collapsed at the breakfast buffet. Fortunately Ray was able to soften her fall and then he and I got her up into a chair. In another fortunate coincidence, another bystander was a Californian doctor (on another tour). She checked her to make sure there was nothing life-threatening and then Pat was taken to the Medical Park (just opposite) by wheelchair. There was nothing we could do, so we all continued to have breakfast and await the results of whatever was happening.
I rang Aran but he had already been told and was aware of what was happening. I was back to my room by 0720, checked email for one last time and found that Scott had emailed me a picture of a carpet I had bought in Istanbul and was waiting to be sent to Australia. That was correct, so that was one more thing off my mind.
At 0750 I was down at the bus and no-one was certain what was happening. Apparently the test results were due back by 0800 and at that time the decision would be made. A delay of an hour was acceptable, but beyond that other arrangements would have to be made. As it turned out, Pat was back on the bus before 0830 and we left then, not too late because we missed the early morning traffic rush (and missed the traffic in Istanbul later because of the holiday).
We had a smooth run until we stopped for morning tea and one of our number discovered that the plastic waiter in our stop was wearing an Essendon Bombers cap! Talk about cheek!
Very soon after we caught a ferry to cut off about 120 kilometres of driving and that was a pleasant experience. It was a little brisk on deck but not bad. A Turkish student tried to engage some of us in conversation but it wasn’t very successful. About forty minutes after we got on, we were driving off and on the past leg of our driving, entering Istanbul.
We drove in over the Bosphorus Bridge and went around some sights before we stopped just outside the Hippodrome. Here we had a short session before breaking for lunch.
We were back together at 1330 and went for a short walk around the Hippodrome before we went into the Blue Mosque. After a talk and a look around, we then got back onto the bus and arrived at the hotel (after some very close calls in the narrow streets) about 1445. We unloaded and got our leys, settled into our rooms and then at 1515 the group for the Bosphorus cruise headed out. I went to the lobby to process my photos, post them and burn some DVDs for the other tour members (and our guide and driver).
My laptop remembered the password and there was another person down there also using a Mac. During the evening I burned quite a few, sent out emails to other members and chatted to people who had not gone on the cruise, then later to people who were gong out for the evening activity. After some animated conversations, I went off to bed (and realised after going to bed I had left the DVDs down in the lobby, but another member had taken them for safekeeping – whew!) and slept well after doing the washing (but not the shirts, as I had run out of hangers).
I rang Aran but he had already been told and was aware of what was happening. I was back to my room by 0720, checked email for one last time and found that Scott had emailed me a picture of a carpet I had bought in Istanbul and was waiting to be sent to Australia. That was correct, so that was one more thing off my mind.
At 0750 I was down at the bus and no-one was certain what was happening. Apparently the test results were due back by 0800 and at that time the decision would be made. A delay of an hour was acceptable, but beyond that other arrangements would have to be made. As it turned out, Pat was back on the bus before 0830 and we left then, not too late because we missed the early morning traffic rush (and missed the traffic in Istanbul later because of the holiday).
We had a smooth run until we stopped for morning tea and one of our number discovered that the plastic waiter in our stop was wearing an Essendon Bombers cap! Talk about cheek!
Very soon after we caught a ferry to cut off about 120 kilometres of driving and that was a pleasant experience. It was a little brisk on deck but not bad. A Turkish student tried to engage some of us in conversation but it wasn’t very successful. About forty minutes after we got on, we were driving off and on the past leg of our driving, entering Istanbul.
We drove in over the Bosphorus Bridge and went around some sights before we stopped just outside the Hippodrome. Here we had a short session before breaking for lunch.
We were back together at 1330 and went for a short walk around the Hippodrome before we went into the Blue Mosque. After a talk and a look around, we then got back onto the bus and arrived at the hotel (after some very close calls in the narrow streets) about 1445. We unloaded and got our leys, settled into our rooms and then at 1515 the group for the Bosphorus cruise headed out. I went to the lobby to process my photos, post them and burn some DVDs for the other tour members (and our guide and driver).
My laptop remembered the password and there was another person down there also using a Mac. During the evening I burned quite a few, sent out emails to other members and chatted to people who had not gone on the cruise, then later to people who were gong out for the evening activity. After some animated conversations, I went off to bed (and realised after going to bed I had left the DVDs down in the lobby, but another member had taken them for safekeeping – whew!) and slept well after doing the washing (but not the shirts, as I had run out of hangers).
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
28 October
Another early start and another very early wake-up – for me at 0430 again before I finally got up at 0530, packed everything up (the socks are now finally dry and I only have two or three more laundry evenings before I am home) and then after the usual preparations I was down for breakfast at 0615 – and here disaster struck. I had forgotten my Vegemite and was too tired to go back up for it, so I went WITHOUT! After, I went back to the room and was finally down at 0725 for us to leave the Ankara hotel at 0730. Today no-one was late and we set off for Gordian and arrived at Midas’ tomb in Gordian about 0920. After a little History lesson, we entered the tomb. The entrance was far more impressive than the actual tomb area, probably because we had to walk all the way in and then couldn’t enter the actual tomb area.
We returned outside to visit the museum at the site, then went to the café for some morning tea. Doingnothing makes one so hungry and thirsty. We left about 1010 and drove over until we hit the main road for Bursa – apparently a new four-lane divided road. We stopped for lunch at 1255 after seeing changes in the surrounding countryside. Where we stopped the town area was undergoing a lot of development and many new buildings were going up. It seems the buildings have four flats per floor, roughly about twelve hundred square feet. At eight floors, each accommodates around thirty-two families in reasonable conditions. After lunch we continued to Bursa, arriving there at around 1515. At the hotel we went to our rooms (and I got connected to the Internet) and we were back on the bus at 1540 to visit mosque (from AD1399) and the Han (from AD1491) which is now a major silk sales area. After a tour of the mosque (still in operation) and a quick explanation of the Han, we had time to look around. I walked back through the bazaar with an English couple from Burma, arriving back at the hotel at 1735. After that I did photo processing and organisation of things to post back home from Istanbul. I posted the photos and went down for dinner.
During dinner Margaret (from Manchester, one of the two deaf/dumb people on the tour) had a cake for her birthday and got presented with a ceramic plate (by Aran) for her birthday. Everyone sang happy birthday and she blew all the candles out. Soon after I returned to my room. I had written postcards out, but still have a letter to write to post from Turkey.
I had luck at posting my blogs tonight, and managed to catch up with writing them all up tonight. Then it was off to bed, as despite doing little I am tired (more tired than when I drive long distances, whether in the US, Europe or at home.
We returned outside to visit the museum at the site, then went to the café for some morning tea. Doingnothing makes one so hungry and thirsty. We left about 1010 and drove over until we hit the main road for Bursa – apparently a new four-lane divided road. We stopped for lunch at 1255 after seeing changes in the surrounding countryside. Where we stopped the town area was undergoing a lot of development and many new buildings were going up. It seems the buildings have four flats per floor, roughly about twelve hundred square feet. At eight floors, each accommodates around thirty-two families in reasonable conditions. After lunch we continued to Bursa, arriving there at around 1515. At the hotel we went to our rooms (and I got connected to the Internet) and we were back on the bus at 1540 to visit mosque (from AD1399) and the Han (from AD1491) which is now a major silk sales area. After a tour of the mosque (still in operation) and a quick explanation of the Han, we had time to look around. I walked back through the bazaar with an English couple from Burma, arriving back at the hotel at 1735. After that I did photo processing and organisation of things to post back home from Istanbul. I posted the photos and went down for dinner.
During dinner Margaret (from Manchester, one of the two deaf/dumb people on the tour) had a cake for her birthday and got presented with a ceramic plate (by Aran) for her birthday. Everyone sang happy birthday and she blew all the candles out. Soon after I returned to my room. I had written postcards out, but still have a letter to write to post from Turkey.
I had luck at posting my blogs tonight, and managed to catch up with writing them all up tonight. Then it was off to bed, as despite doing little I am tired (more tired than when I drive long distances, whether in the US, Europe or at home.
27 October
As we had to leave early, I woke early – at 0430, way too early. I tried unsuccessfully to sleep, and was finally up at 0530 to pack and the prepare for breakfast at about 0615. We left the hotel at about 0730 and retraced part of our steps beside the salt lake until we reached the road to Ankara. We stopped at 1045, 100 km out of Ankara for an early lunch. This was so we could see things in Ankara and depart before the evening peak and this spend a few hours looking at the tail-lights of cars in front of us going nowhere in a hurry.
After dropping those who weren’t on this tour in the city centre at 1215, at 1230 we arrived in the Ankara museum. After a quick introduction, we could walk around, but the sheer size and number of exhibits meant I couldn’t see everything before we had to depart at 1400. The Turkish Air Force celebrated the day with us by giving a flyover in our honour (really they were practising for their National Day, but that isn’t as exciting for us). We went straight to the Ataturk mausoleum, arriving at 1430 and as we arrived in the square, a group of scouts arrived to lay a wreath (actually done by soldiers, as you can see in the photos). I was amused after when I saluted one, snapping my heels, and he returned it in a good military salute. This happened a number of times.
I looked over the car museum, a museum of personal effects of Ataturk and then a museum of the wars between 1915 and 1923. Some of the dioramas were very effective. We were followed by the Prime Minister of the Ukraine, but we didn’t get to walk on his red carpet.
As we left, two things happened. A motorised squeegee scraped the surface of the square clear of water (I’d never seen one before) and a scout asked to take a picture of Robert and myself. Then he wanted a photo of us with him in it. We took a photo of him, then I gave him a kangaroo pin. HE thanked us profusely and headed off, as we did also.
Back on the bus we left soon and got to the centre of town by 1615 to pick up the others – fortunately they were all there. On the way to the hotel we stopped to pick up supplies (at a reasonable price) but after we had spent five minutes on what appeared to be a dirt track, we were starting to worry. Then our hotel appeared in sight and when we got there – rooms the size of bowling alleys, corridors you could play Australian Rules in and, fortunately for me, wireless Internet. This was only in the lobby, so after unpacking I processed the photos and went down to the lobby to send them. I only sent a few (enough to start the new set) and then it was in for dinner.
After dinner I went back to the lobby to send the rest – and got talking (?) to a group of young men interested in my laptop. I showed them what I was doing, then some photos of Australia and one of them wanted to see photos of Stockholm (his wife is from there). Then we got onto Bursa (our next night’s stop) and I found out they were all from Bursa – Robert Bosch employees here on a seminar. After a lot of fiddling (and finding good places an things to eat in Bursa), another came along who could speak good English and we went into kangaroos and Aborigines and boomerangs. After an hour they were heading off and invited me up for drinks, but I was too tired and had to beg off. Back in my room it was get ready for bed and then nearly straight off to sleep.
After dropping those who weren’t on this tour in the city centre at 1215, at 1230 we arrived in the Ankara museum. After a quick introduction, we could walk around, but the sheer size and number of exhibits meant I couldn’t see everything before we had to depart at 1400. The Turkish Air Force celebrated the day with us by giving a flyover in our honour (really they were practising for their National Day, but that isn’t as exciting for us). We went straight to the Ataturk mausoleum, arriving at 1430 and as we arrived in the square, a group of scouts arrived to lay a wreath (actually done by soldiers, as you can see in the photos). I was amused after when I saluted one, snapping my heels, and he returned it in a good military salute. This happened a number of times.
I looked over the car museum, a museum of personal effects of Ataturk and then a museum of the wars between 1915 and 1923. Some of the dioramas were very effective. We were followed by the Prime Minister of the Ukraine, but we didn’t get to walk on his red carpet.
As we left, two things happened. A motorised squeegee scraped the surface of the square clear of water (I’d never seen one before) and a scout asked to take a picture of Robert and myself. Then he wanted a photo of us with him in it. We took a photo of him, then I gave him a kangaroo pin. HE thanked us profusely and headed off, as we did also.
Back on the bus we left soon and got to the centre of town by 1615 to pick up the others – fortunately they were all there. On the way to the hotel we stopped to pick up supplies (at a reasonable price) but after we had spent five minutes on what appeared to be a dirt track, we were starting to worry. Then our hotel appeared in sight and when we got there – rooms the size of bowling alleys, corridors you could play Australian Rules in and, fortunately for me, wireless Internet. This was only in the lobby, so after unpacking I processed the photos and went down to the lobby to send them. I only sent a few (enough to start the new set) and then it was in for dinner.
After dinner I went back to the lobby to send the rest – and got talking (?) to a group of young men interested in my laptop. I showed them what I was doing, then some photos of Australia and one of them wanted to see photos of Stockholm (his wife is from there). Then we got onto Bursa (our next night’s stop) and I found out they were all from Bursa – Robert Bosch employees here on a seminar. After a lot of fiddling (and finding good places an things to eat in Bursa), another came along who could speak good English and we went into kangaroos and Aborigines and boomerangs. After an hour they were heading off and invited me up for drinks, but I was too tired and had to beg off. Back in my room it was get ready for bed and then nearly straight off to sleep.
26 October
Because we were going on a local tour today, we didn’t leave the hotel until 0900. Our frist stop was to go through an underground village at Yeralti Serhi. Not all of us made it through to the end, but even so we only saw part of it as rockfalls, closures and safety considerations limited where we could go. After we left, we went to another village to see the market place, on the Sunday morning. This was much smaller than in the cities, but still had a wide range, including a cobbler who not only repaired but entertained.
We then headed off to another rock village near Goreme, where we saw examples of other cave dwellings..
We headed off to yet another spot where we had lunch. I chose to walk around and had a chat with two English ladies (one retired, one nearly there).
After that we headed off to Camel Valley – if you look at the photos, it is quite clear why it is called Camel Valley.
Our last stop for the day was Pigeon Valley, where our stop started with an interesting and amusing introduction to ceramic making. After that was the obligatory sales pitch, though here it wasn’t as hard as at carpet places.
We hen headed back to the hotel for tea and an early night, as tomorrow is scheduled for a 0730 departure. Fortunately all my washing, except the socks, had dried by now.
We then headed off to another rock village near Goreme, where we saw examples of other cave dwellings..
We headed off to yet another spot where we had lunch. I chose to walk around and had a chat with two English ladies (one retired, one nearly there).
After that we headed off to Camel Valley – if you look at the photos, it is quite clear why it is called Camel Valley.
Our last stop for the day was Pigeon Valley, where our stop started with an interesting and amusing introduction to ceramic making. After that was the obligatory sales pitch, though here it wasn’t as hard as at carpet places.
We hen headed back to the hotel for tea and an early night, as tomorrow is scheduled for a 0730 departure. Fortunately all my washing, except the socks, had dried by now.
25 October
After the now usual procedure (except that still some of the group look at my Vegemite jar with amazement) of preparation, suitcase out, breakfast, finish preparations and then pack, check and leave, I was out to the bus by 0750.
Today we started out on a longish drive (I think some of the participants would faint on a drive with me) and left the fertile areas behind. The land became more like valleys between mountain ranges and became far drier and the soils changed from chalk to limestone. The farming changed from intensive cultivation to sugar beets, graving and irrigated crops. There were also sheep around, each flock with their own shepherd (which seems funny to me, being used to large numbers of sheep grazing unattended).
We stopped at a caravanasai, a cross between and inn and a fortified place, which were used along the Silk Road. Part of the road we are on was part of the original route, so it is funny going from one end to the other by other means. Perhaps another project might be to travel it by land transport, such as a vehicle.
We stopped not too long after for morning tea (that really does sound better than the real reason why we stop) and once again the bus, and especially the windows, were washed. It seems peculiar the number of washes the bus gets, given we can’t even wash our cars at all (except for recycling automatic car washes). Here there was a thriving trade area.
We pushed on for lunch and stopped at a service station/Supermarket. After a quick look at the food selection, Sue and I got something at the supermarket and then did the block. There was a lot of construction, many new buildings (we had passed through villages of mud brick construction in the morning) and a lot of new roads. The hospital in the town was brand new, only open for a year but still not finished.
After lunch we drove to an open-air museum of the cave buildings (mainly churches here) of Cappadocia. We walked through quite a few after an explanatory session. Naturally most of them were small, having been hollowed out of tuff. Some of the frescos were well-preserved. The homes had dovecotes, for food and for messages (so SMSs are to new – just the transmission system is different). I ran into the Australian group again, seeing Helen and Stewart as well as the chap from Adelaide. I managed to get the photo of two other girls and explained why I wanted it.
Finally we headed back to the bus (after being sucked in to buy another tourism book) and went to the hotel.
After settling in I went for a walk. The driver was fascinated by my hand-held GPS (he is using a SatNav on the bus) and explained the shops were a long way away but the centre of town was fairly close. I walked down and found shops close by (but not many) and a market square. On the way back I was chatting with a couple of older English ladies about travel.
At the hotel it was then time for tea and a departure to the Folk dancing show. This was set in a cave-like building, with a tunnel entrance, a circular performance area and five bays of some seventy-two seats arranged in tiers of four seats each side and nine rows.
The performance was very well given by ten dancers and a belly dancer. Each of them engaged members of the audience in what they were doing and received enthusiastic responses. Some of the groups had dinner; we had nibbles and drinks – unlimited drinks, which some of the party took advantage of (and I think regretted the next day). Aran played backgammon while we watched. The performance concluded about 2315 and we wearily headed onto the bus and back to the hotel.
For me, it was then charge batteries, transfer and process photos, do washing and then upload photos while dropping off to sleep.
I couldn’t upload my blog as the site has been blocked by the Turkish Government (“T.C. Diyarbakır 1. Sulh Ceza Mahkemesi 20.10.2008 tarih ve 2008/2761 sayılı kararı gereği bu siteye erişim engellenmiştir. Access to this web site has been suspended in accordance with decision no: 2008/2761 of T.R. Diyarbakır 1st Criminal Court of Peace”) so I will have to wait until Egypt or home to upload this and following entries.
Today we started out on a longish drive (I think some of the participants would faint on a drive with me) and left the fertile areas behind. The land became more like valleys between mountain ranges and became far drier and the soils changed from chalk to limestone. The farming changed from intensive cultivation to sugar beets, graving and irrigated crops. There were also sheep around, each flock with their own shepherd (which seems funny to me, being used to large numbers of sheep grazing unattended).
We stopped at a caravanasai, a cross between and inn and a fortified place, which were used along the Silk Road. Part of the road we are on was part of the original route, so it is funny going from one end to the other by other means. Perhaps another project might be to travel it by land transport, such as a vehicle.
We stopped not too long after for morning tea (that really does sound better than the real reason why we stop) and once again the bus, and especially the windows, were washed. It seems peculiar the number of washes the bus gets, given we can’t even wash our cars at all (except for recycling automatic car washes). Here there was a thriving trade area.
We pushed on for lunch and stopped at a service station/Supermarket. After a quick look at the food selection, Sue and I got something at the supermarket and then did the block. There was a lot of construction, many new buildings (we had passed through villages of mud brick construction in the morning) and a lot of new roads. The hospital in the town was brand new, only open for a year but still not finished.
After lunch we drove to an open-air museum of the cave buildings (mainly churches here) of Cappadocia. We walked through quite a few after an explanatory session. Naturally most of them were small, having been hollowed out of tuff. Some of the frescos were well-preserved. The homes had dovecotes, for food and for messages (so SMSs are to new – just the transmission system is different). I ran into the Australian group again, seeing Helen and Stewart as well as the chap from Adelaide. I managed to get the photo of two other girls and explained why I wanted it.
Finally we headed back to the bus (after being sucked in to buy another tourism book) and went to the hotel.
After settling in I went for a walk. The driver was fascinated by my hand-held GPS (he is using a SatNav on the bus) and explained the shops were a long way away but the centre of town was fairly close. I walked down and found shops close by (but not many) and a market square. On the way back I was chatting with a couple of older English ladies about travel.
At the hotel it was then time for tea and a departure to the Folk dancing show. This was set in a cave-like building, with a tunnel entrance, a circular performance area and five bays of some seventy-two seats arranged in tiers of four seats each side and nine rows.
The performance was very well given by ten dancers and a belly dancer. Each of them engaged members of the audience in what they were doing and received enthusiastic responses. Some of the groups had dinner; we had nibbles and drinks – unlimited drinks, which some of the party took advantage of (and I think regretted the next day). Aran played backgammon while we watched. The performance concluded about 2315 and we wearily headed onto the bus and back to the hotel.
For me, it was then charge batteries, transfer and process photos, do washing and then upload photos while dropping off to sleep.
I couldn’t upload my blog as the site has been blocked by the Turkish Government (“T.C. Diyarbakır 1. Sulh Ceza Mahkemesi 20.10.2008 tarih ve 2008/2761 sayılı kararı gereği bu siteye erişim engellenmiştir. Access to this web site has been suspended in accordance with decision no: 2008/2761 of T.R. Diyarbakır 1st Criminal Court of Peace”) so I will have to wait until Egypt or home to upload this and following entries.
24 October
After being awake at the same time, I was finally up at 0615. I did some Internet work, checking emails and seeing how many hits I had on Flickr (but still not knowing how many (if any) read my blog) and after the usual preparation, I was down to breakfast 0655. There were still some down before me.
After a leisurely breakfast and a walk around, I was out at 0815 for the bus, but the bus didn’t leave until 0832 as two passengers (and I won’t say who you were, Lyn and Sue) were late. Not too long after we left, we stopped to photograph terraces from below and in a different light. Then we drove until we stopped for morning tea (in this case, morning yoghurt, honey and chick peas). The scenery changed from the very fertile areas with valleys in between rolling hills to plains with mountains in the background, and then we started climbing the mountains.
We stopped for lunch at a roadhouse, which was supposed to have fast food, but today … only slow food. Sue, Lyn and I walked along the road and bought some apples at a stand on the roadside, before returning to the bus. The mother and daughter at the stand were very nice, but although we had few words in common, we were able to communicate.
The drive to Konya in the afternoon saw the land becoming flatter but higher. Along the was we saw a huge line of trucks waiting to be weighed at a sugar beet depot (more than a kilometre) by 1525 we arrived at our hotel for the night. After finding our rooms and dumping things, we headed over the road (yes, just over the road) to the Whirling Dervishes monastery. After a tour around there, and about an hour, some of us walked the bazaar streets of the town. I did a bit with one couple from England and then more with Sue. At the end of that, we tried to find a bank where Euros could be withdrawn, and fond three ATMs, but none which obviously had Euros. We did some supermarket shopping, and were back at the hotel by 1830 to finalise Optional Tours and pay for them. While I was waiting, I looked at some previous pictures and found I had an audience.
After the payments were finished, I had tea. During tea, I showed two women from Manchester shots of Australia and where we had been recently.
After all that I retired to my room to process today’s photos and thought I would have to go downstairs to upload them, but found the signal in my room was now strong enough to access the Internet, so I uploaded them, wrote my blog, posted that and went down to see others before going to bed.
Unfortunately, perhaps as doing nothing is getting to me, I dozed on the bus today. Perhaps I need to do some driving, but I don’t think the driver (Biral) would let me. No walking and little time out would have made me more sleepy too.
After a leisurely breakfast and a walk around, I was out at 0815 for the bus, but the bus didn’t leave until 0832 as two passengers (and I won’t say who you were, Lyn and Sue) were late. Not too long after we left, we stopped to photograph terraces from below and in a different light. Then we drove until we stopped for morning tea (in this case, morning yoghurt, honey and chick peas). The scenery changed from the very fertile areas with valleys in between rolling hills to plains with mountains in the background, and then we started climbing the mountains.
We stopped for lunch at a roadhouse, which was supposed to have fast food, but today … only slow food. Sue, Lyn and I walked along the road and bought some apples at a stand on the roadside, before returning to the bus. The mother and daughter at the stand were very nice, but although we had few words in common, we were able to communicate.
The drive to Konya in the afternoon saw the land becoming flatter but higher. Along the was we saw a huge line of trucks waiting to be weighed at a sugar beet depot (more than a kilometre) by 1525 we arrived at our hotel for the night. After finding our rooms and dumping things, we headed over the road (yes, just over the road) to the Whirling Dervishes monastery. After a tour around there, and about an hour, some of us walked the bazaar streets of the town. I did a bit with one couple from England and then more with Sue. At the end of that, we tried to find a bank where Euros could be withdrawn, and fond three ATMs, but none which obviously had Euros. We did some supermarket shopping, and were back at the hotel by 1830 to finalise Optional Tours and pay for them. While I was waiting, I looked at some previous pictures and found I had an audience.
After the payments were finished, I had tea. During tea, I showed two women from Manchester shots of Australia and where we had been recently.
After all that I retired to my room to process today’s photos and thought I would have to go downstairs to upload them, but found the signal in my room was now strong enough to access the Internet, so I uploaded them, wrote my blog, posted that and went down to see others before going to bed.
Unfortunately, perhaps as doing nothing is getting to me, I dozed on the bus today. Perhaps I need to do some driving, but I don’t think the driver (Biral) would let me. No walking and little time out would have made me more sleepy too.
Thursday, October 23, 2008
23 October
The day followed the now obligatory pattern of up at 0600, packing and preparing, being down for breakfast at 0700 (with the luggage out), returning to pack the backpack and being ready to leave the hotel by 0800.
We left Kusadasi and set off to go to the village of Geyre and visit the ancient site of Aphrodisias. Our first sight for the day was not archaeological but social, as many dogs in Turkey are community owned – and along one section of rural road the dogs come out to be fed at the same time by the same people each day (I wonder what happens if they go on holiday, shift or die). Along the way we passed through the provincial capital and saw camel sausages on sale – apparently the only place in Turkey where they are available, but there were certainly plenty of advertisements for them.
We dropped those who didn’t want to (or couldn’t) walk around the site at the restaurant where we were to have lunch. We drove by bus to the site of the Aphrodisias ruins and walked into them. We visited the public buildings (I must read about them when I get home as they all seem to be on a similar plan), temples converted to churches (over varying periods of time) and stadiums. This stadium was of a surprising size and its condition varied because of earthquakes. It included a pool which was very large and quite a good museum – but I couldn’t feed my habit as we didn’t have long enough. We returned from the site by tractor-towed carriages and arrived at the bus park, where we boarded to go back to the restaurant.
At the restaurant lunch was offered by samples on a trolley, orders taken by hand numbers and then delivered to the tables. I opted to walk around the village (a square route a few hundred metres along each side). One road was bare, but the second had houses and the third had a few houses and some trade. The fourth side was the main road. I managed to say hello to a few, had a drink and ice cream, got my hand shaken by a one-armed man and got a small child crying because I looked so unfamiliar.
By the time I got back to the restaurant it was nearly time to board the bus again and we then drove through Denizli and visited the site of Hierapolis, out past Pamukkale. Here there were not only the ruins but also terraces formed from the flow of high concentrations of calcium bicarbonate (leading to formations often seen in caves being on the hillside. After an introductory lecture to explain the history of the settlement and its physical layout, we had an hour and a half to wander around. While walking, I met Stewart and Helen from Brisbane (they were part of the rowdy tour group down from me last night, but they assured me they weren’t the noisy ones) and we discussed how you could tour different places overseas in the best way. We parted and I returned to the bus by a scout’s pace an just got back in time. Then we returned to the suburbs of Denizli to our hotel for the evening. It looked quite good, though I wasn’t using many of the facilities (it had WiFi in the lobby, but again I could access it from my room (but more slowly, even though more conveniently). After I had established that, I walked down the street with Monique and through the bazaar. This turned out to be far bigger than expected and included a hot water fountain, also covered in deposits. Before turning back I got a good photo of the sunset over the hills, then a shot of a young child with his mum. She got a kangaroo pin – I was going to say to give it to the biy when he grows up, bu the language barrier was too great. I did note that a man behind her kept on indicating she should be given money, but as good Australians we totally ignored it. It was then a gentle stroll back for a buffet tea at the hotel.
After I went to my room, processed today’s photos, while sending out emails. Then while the photos were being uploaded to Flickr, I wrote this blog and went to bed and to sleep.
We left Kusadasi and set off to go to the village of Geyre and visit the ancient site of Aphrodisias. Our first sight for the day was not archaeological but social, as many dogs in Turkey are community owned – and along one section of rural road the dogs come out to be fed at the same time by the same people each day (I wonder what happens if they go on holiday, shift or die). Along the way we passed through the provincial capital and saw camel sausages on sale – apparently the only place in Turkey where they are available, but there were certainly plenty of advertisements for them.
We dropped those who didn’t want to (or couldn’t) walk around the site at the restaurant where we were to have lunch. We drove by bus to the site of the Aphrodisias ruins and walked into them. We visited the public buildings (I must read about them when I get home as they all seem to be on a similar plan), temples converted to churches (over varying periods of time) and stadiums. This stadium was of a surprising size and its condition varied because of earthquakes. It included a pool which was very large and quite a good museum – but I couldn’t feed my habit as we didn’t have long enough. We returned from the site by tractor-towed carriages and arrived at the bus park, where we boarded to go back to the restaurant.
At the restaurant lunch was offered by samples on a trolley, orders taken by hand numbers and then delivered to the tables. I opted to walk around the village (a square route a few hundred metres along each side). One road was bare, but the second had houses and the third had a few houses and some trade. The fourth side was the main road. I managed to say hello to a few, had a drink and ice cream, got my hand shaken by a one-armed man and got a small child crying because I looked so unfamiliar.
By the time I got back to the restaurant it was nearly time to board the bus again and we then drove through Denizli and visited the site of Hierapolis, out past Pamukkale. Here there were not only the ruins but also terraces formed from the flow of high concentrations of calcium bicarbonate (leading to formations often seen in caves being on the hillside. After an introductory lecture to explain the history of the settlement and its physical layout, we had an hour and a half to wander around. While walking, I met Stewart and Helen from Brisbane (they were part of the rowdy tour group down from me last night, but they assured me they weren’t the noisy ones) and we discussed how you could tour different places overseas in the best way. We parted and I returned to the bus by a scout’s pace an just got back in time. Then we returned to the suburbs of Denizli to our hotel for the evening. It looked quite good, though I wasn’t using many of the facilities (it had WiFi in the lobby, but again I could access it from my room (but more slowly, even though more conveniently). After I had established that, I walked down the street with Monique and through the bazaar. This turned out to be far bigger than expected and included a hot water fountain, also covered in deposits. Before turning back I got a good photo of the sunset over the hills, then a shot of a young child with his mum. She got a kangaroo pin – I was going to say to give it to the biy when he grows up, bu the language barrier was too great. I did note that a man behind her kept on indicating she should be given money, but as good Australians we totally ignored it. It was then a gentle stroll back for a buffet tea at the hotel.
After I went to my room, processed today’s photos, while sending out emails. Then while the photos were being uploaded to Flickr, I wrote this blog and went to bed and to sleep.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
22 October
The alarm went off at 0600 and I reluctantly got up ten minutes later. The washing was not dry, so went onto the hangers in the wardrobe, so I could have my shower without making them wetter. By the time I finished my shower, the wake-up call came at 0630 – thank goodness for phones in the bathrooms!
I checked my email again, but the reason why I had dropped the connections was in force again, so the search for the pages hung. This is the first place this has happened, and I hope it is the last. I went down for breakfast and was again able to have my Vegemite on toast (but sliced stick, not slices). I ended up sitting with Carol and an English couple, so the story of my trips got rehashed again and I ended up having to get up to my room, clean my teeth and pack for the day fairly quickly. Not having too much sleep made me a little slower than I would have liked.
I got down to the bus, but a few didn’t make it – some came late (they are starting a habit which will annoy) and four decided not to come, so there were spare seats. I had the seat to myself.
We headed straight off to Ephesus (and I just realise that I’ve misspelt Ephesus on all the pictures).
We arrived about half an hour later and got a few dire warnings about what would happen if we got lost – head downwards and find the exit. Fortunately no-one did get lost, but it was both informative and visually interesting to walk through the ruins as they originally housed 350 000 in the second century A.D.
If you look at the photos for today you will find quite a number – although they also cover the visit to Mary’s house and the Temple of Artemis, as these were in the same town area.
The systems in place, the organization and the politics were not too far removed from those in place today in democracies.
We left Ephesus about 1230 and went into the modern town of Ephesus for lunch, but Robert, Sue and I walked around and had a look at a light industrial areas which had one building which had not been completed – yet looked very interesting. The bus left again at 1330 and we went up another mountain to see a chapel which was supposed to be the house where John (disciple) took Mary (mother of Jesus) after Jesus’ crucifixion. After a time there, we went back into the modern town again to see the ruins of the Temple of Diana (Artemis). This was interesting in a number of ways – the cost people paid for books and postcards, the state of the area, the use of the area and the number of children selling things while it was school time!
We left there and got back into Kusadasi by just before 1600. I took the option of getting off in the centre of town for three reasons – so I could explore a little more, so I could have tea in town and also to research a person for a friend from Derrinallum. I started by doing that, and the first place (in the Town Bazaar) directed me to a place in the Grand Bazaar which in turn directed me to a place in the Main Bazaar and finally I got directed to a store where the part-owner said the other part owner was his uncle, the person I was looking for, and he often worked on his farm in Ephesus. He then described that he had written the letters for his uncle to this friend and gave a few details, and showed me an old photo of his uncle in a group. I took a photo of that (and his email address) and then went on to look around, explore more of the town and then have some (early) tea before heading back to the hotel.
At the hotel I transferred the photos and started charging the batteries. Then I processed the photos out on the balcony (cooler, because I was warm from the day and walking around and up from town) and had a chat with Carol and Christine, then with a fellow from Adelaide (Port Adelaide) who was here with a different tour group. Then I went inside and chatted with another fellow on our tour until the laptop battery was nearly flat, so I had to go back to the room and plug it in.
The photos were being uploaded to Flickr and I heard a noisy group, which turned out to be the chap from Adelaide and others on the Fez Tour (all Australians) on the balcony of 103. I chatted with them a little, then went in, found I could now get GMail (but now not the Blog site), so sent some emails, processed photos for some others on the tour who want copies of some that I have taken) and wrote up my blog. Then, after a while, I went to bed and hoped I catch up on the sleep I lost last night.
I checked my email again, but the reason why I had dropped the connections was in force again, so the search for the pages hung. This is the first place this has happened, and I hope it is the last. I went down for breakfast and was again able to have my Vegemite on toast (but sliced stick, not slices). I ended up sitting with Carol and an English couple, so the story of my trips got rehashed again and I ended up having to get up to my room, clean my teeth and pack for the day fairly quickly. Not having too much sleep made me a little slower than I would have liked.
I got down to the bus, but a few didn’t make it – some came late (they are starting a habit which will annoy) and four decided not to come, so there were spare seats. I had the seat to myself.
We headed straight off to Ephesus (and I just realise that I’ve misspelt Ephesus on all the pictures).
We arrived about half an hour later and got a few dire warnings about what would happen if we got lost – head downwards and find the exit. Fortunately no-one did get lost, but it was both informative and visually interesting to walk through the ruins as they originally housed 350 000 in the second century A.D.
If you look at the photos for today you will find quite a number – although they also cover the visit to Mary’s house and the Temple of Artemis, as these were in the same town area.
The systems in place, the organization and the politics were not too far removed from those in place today in democracies.
We left Ephesus about 1230 and went into the modern town of Ephesus for lunch, but Robert, Sue and I walked around and had a look at a light industrial areas which had one building which had not been completed – yet looked very interesting. The bus left again at 1330 and we went up another mountain to see a chapel which was supposed to be the house where John (disciple) took Mary (mother of Jesus) after Jesus’ crucifixion. After a time there, we went back into the modern town again to see the ruins of the Temple of Diana (Artemis). This was interesting in a number of ways – the cost people paid for books and postcards, the state of the area, the use of the area and the number of children selling things while it was school time!
We left there and got back into Kusadasi by just before 1600. I took the option of getting off in the centre of town for three reasons – so I could explore a little more, so I could have tea in town and also to research a person for a friend from Derrinallum. I started by doing that, and the first place (in the Town Bazaar) directed me to a place in the Grand Bazaar which in turn directed me to a place in the Main Bazaar and finally I got directed to a store where the part-owner said the other part owner was his uncle, the person I was looking for, and he often worked on his farm in Ephesus. He then described that he had written the letters for his uncle to this friend and gave a few details, and showed me an old photo of his uncle in a group. I took a photo of that (and his email address) and then went on to look around, explore more of the town and then have some (early) tea before heading back to the hotel.
At the hotel I transferred the photos and started charging the batteries. Then I processed the photos out on the balcony (cooler, because I was warm from the day and walking around and up from town) and had a chat with Carol and Christine, then with a fellow from Adelaide (Port Adelaide) who was here with a different tour group. Then I went inside and chatted with another fellow on our tour until the laptop battery was nearly flat, so I had to go back to the room and plug it in.
The photos were being uploaded to Flickr and I heard a noisy group, which turned out to be the chap from Adelaide and others on the Fez Tour (all Australians) on the balcony of 103. I chatted with them a little, then went in, found I could now get GMail (but now not the Blog site), so sent some emails, processed photos for some others on the tour who want copies of some that I have taken) and wrote up my blog. Then, after a while, I went to bed and hoped I catch up on the sleep I lost last night.
21 October
As usual now, it was awake at 0600, prepare and then ready by 0630. After making sure my suitcase was packed and only the minimum was left to carry in the pack, I went over to the lobby and checked email and photo statistics.
Even though breakfast wasn’t due to start until 0700, I went in at 0645 and … it was being served already. I sat down and then wento voer – no toast again! But this time I asked and, within a few minutes,t here was toast (well, after a fashion, but still bread with a brown cooked coating) and I could have my Vegemite A couple from England sat opposite and we chatted during breakfast.
Soon it was time to return to my room, finish preparations and get ready to board the bus.
With the seat rotations I was one forward of the back seat on the driver’s side – but today I was with Lynn, as she and Sue swap occasionally. Then, on time, at 0800 we were off to Troy.
We arrived at Troy after being told that our expectations should not be too high. After an initial briefing we went into the archeological site and I was surprised at the amount of stonework visible. At each place we got a short talk on the position and relevance what we were seeing in the time line of Troy and of the world (at the time). Apart from the size of the site, one of the features was that the ses had moved so far away (due to alluvial deposits from the river) that the coastal town of strategic importance was now an inland town with no reason to be.
We left Troy and headed off again, towards Permagan (or Bermaga now) and we arrived there for lunch (after one of the now obligatory toilet stops along the way, where of course everyone has something to drink, ensuring another stop is necessary within a further two hours). At the lunch stop we could see the Roman temple and amphitheatre on the mountain above the town, so Sue, Lynn, Robert and I set off to try to find the best place to photograph it.
Due to distractions (schoolchildren love saying hello, but can’t say much more in English and so so conversation flags very quickly; small supermarkets are an attraction within themselves) we didn’t get too far down the road in the time available, but we did find a reasonably good spot – only to find that it was outside a military barracks and we weren’t allowed to photograph from there!
We got back to the bus and then headed off to Izmer. We stopped here to take photos of the old town centre (opposite) and the attractions on the coast. One interesting aspect here was tha the height of the buildings decreased down the side streets the further they were from the waterfront.
After that it was along to a toilet stop before we turned off at Ephasus for Kusadasi, our stop for tonight and our home for two nights.
The first order of business was to find out about Internet – yes, they had WiFi and I got the password – but when I went to connect, no problem with Mail but GMail and Flickr would not connect. Yet Flickr upload would!
I processed a few photos and then went down the street to survey the scene. It looked very different from the description given to me by a friend from Derrinallum – there is now no “main” street or pier, rather a plethora of both! I got some supplies for tomorrow and then went back and had tea. This I had with Carol and Christine, and after we went for a walk down the street and I explored a bit further and asked about a particular person, but got no reply.
After that it was back to the room, finish processing the photos and uploading them – and finding now all Internet connections worked! I sent out my email and replied to a few, started to write up my blog but then decided to go to sleep about 0030.
Even though breakfast wasn’t due to start until 0700, I went in at 0645 and … it was being served already. I sat down and then wento voer – no toast again! But this time I asked and, within a few minutes,t here was toast (well, after a fashion, but still bread with a brown cooked coating) and I could have my Vegemite A couple from England sat opposite and we chatted during breakfast.
Soon it was time to return to my room, finish preparations and get ready to board the bus.
With the seat rotations I was one forward of the back seat on the driver’s side – but today I was with Lynn, as she and Sue swap occasionally. Then, on time, at 0800 we were off to Troy.
We arrived at Troy after being told that our expectations should not be too high. After an initial briefing we went into the archeological site and I was surprised at the amount of stonework visible. At each place we got a short talk on the position and relevance what we were seeing in the time line of Troy and of the world (at the time). Apart from the size of the site, one of the features was that the ses had moved so far away (due to alluvial deposits from the river) that the coastal town of strategic importance was now an inland town with no reason to be.
We left Troy and headed off again, towards Permagan (or Bermaga now) and we arrived there for lunch (after one of the now obligatory toilet stops along the way, where of course everyone has something to drink, ensuring another stop is necessary within a further two hours). At the lunch stop we could see the Roman temple and amphitheatre on the mountain above the town, so Sue, Lynn, Robert and I set off to try to find the best place to photograph it.
Due to distractions (schoolchildren love saying hello, but can’t say much more in English and so so conversation flags very quickly; small supermarkets are an attraction within themselves) we didn’t get too far down the road in the time available, but we did find a reasonably good spot – only to find that it was outside a military barracks and we weren’t allowed to photograph from there!
We got back to the bus and then headed off to Izmer. We stopped here to take photos of the old town centre (opposite) and the attractions on the coast. One interesting aspect here was tha the height of the buildings decreased down the side streets the further they were from the waterfront.
After that it was along to a toilet stop before we turned off at Ephasus for Kusadasi, our stop for tonight and our home for two nights.
The first order of business was to find out about Internet – yes, they had WiFi and I got the password – but when I went to connect, no problem with Mail but GMail and Flickr would not connect. Yet Flickr upload would!
I processed a few photos and then went down the street to survey the scene. It looked very different from the description given to me by a friend from Derrinallum – there is now no “main” street or pier, rather a plethora of both! I got some supplies for tomorrow and then went back and had tea. This I had with Carol and Christine, and after we went for a walk down the street and I explored a bit further and asked about a particular person, but got no reply.
After that it was back to the room, finish processing the photos and uploading them – and finding now all Internet connections worked! I sent out my email and replied to a few, started to write up my blog but then decided to go to sleep about 0030.
Monday, October 20, 2008
20 October
Today – the first real day of the tour (despite the booklet and the literature describing it as Day 2) and I was up, early (but not too bright) at 0600. I packed everything in the suitcase and most of the pack (got the wakeup call, which was amazing!), then showered and dressed.
The suitcase was left outside the door and I went down for breakfast (with Vegemite and laptop). Despite being there at 0700, there were already quite a few there (so I will try for 0645 tomorrow, rather than being on time, as I can post this blog and check emails anyway), so I had to sit at a large table (with no-one else) to ensure I could get an Internet WiFi signal.
I had breakfast and received a few emails (and sent out a few, replies to ones sent only a few minutes earlier) and was back to Room 116 at 0740. It was finish my preparations, pack the pack completely and scan the room for things left behind. What amazed me was that I had left a pin and tip on the bed (which I normally don’t do, but each morning my pyjamas have been buttoned and folded) and it had gone! At 0750 I went slowly down to the bus and found most had already got on. After looking at the available seats, I decided on one of two spare at the back and I would take pot luck with whoever took the other. In the end, it was Sue, who will also be on the tour in Egypt.
The bus set off at just after 0800, along the south side of the Golden Horn. I got to see a few of the sights I had seen from the sightseeing bus, including the motorbike on an elevated stand at the Police Motor Headquarters. The traffic was quite heavy, as it was Monday and a normal working morning and we were in peak hour traffic.
As we left the city we got to see different suburbs and different areas, some with only low, middle or upper class housing, while some areas had all together. Low class housing was more predominant around the industrial suburbs, even though some of them were being rebuilt.
After a while we turned southward, then after reaching the coast of the sea of Marmara we followed it along the northern edge, past what had been little villages and what were now retreats for foreigners (because of relatively low prices) and finally, by lunchtime, to the settlement of Gallipoli.
Here we stopped for lunch, but Sue and I went for a walk around the town. There was a neat little fishing harbour where the restaurant was, then commercial and retail streets in the immediate area. Sue found out that the bricks used for building here are very light. It was fun seeing the goods on sale and the prices and variety. In some places they were unique, like sheep’s heads (raw or cooked), while in others there were what you would see in any large store in Australia (even the same brand, but with different electrical cords). There were a large number of students in uniform walking the streets, and we tried to find out from three boys whether they were going home to (or coming back from) lunch or if they had finished for the day. Neither of us understood the other, so it remained a mystery for the next half hour (only solved because we passed a school with students in the yard on our way out of town). On our way back to the bus, I saw a photogenic dog – but was amazed when it roused on hearing the shutter and then went back to sleep when it realised I wasn’t coming over. There was also a back harbour, with smaller and poorer boats than the front harbour. A horse and cart, with the driver selling vegetables, had only moved about twenty metres in the time we had walked up and down.
Just before we got to the bus, I saw a European semi-trailer, so I couldn’t resist getting a photo. They only have six wheels on the trailer (three singles each side, unlike Australian with three doubles each side) and only one rear axle on the prime mover (unlike Australian with tandem axles).
We set off for Gallipoli (the peninsula) and arrived there in a short time. It is a very good showpiece for having either rails or raised roadways, with limited transport (perhaps shuttles), to minimise the damage while maximising access. However, as things are the way they are, we drove in by bus and stopped at Anzac Cove and a short look around, then up to Lone Pine and again a short look around. Then, but for a different reason, we went to the Turkish memorial for their 57th Brigade and also stopped there.
I had wondered what it would be like at Gallipoli, understanding its significance in our national psyche, but without any personal involvement (unlike the Somme, where my grandfather fought and won a medal). I felt moved and saddened while there, but did not experience the total depth of emotion that I did at the Somme. Perhaps after some more reading, or visiting by myself (though I doubt I will ever make it back), it will move me more. I do think that the depth of emotion is governed by the personal links to the area, and if I ever find a relative was involved there, then I may feel differently. However, like in France and Belgium, I felt no animosity towards soldiers from the other side, but I did feel despair that politicians used (and continue to use) ordinary people, their lives and emotions, to further their own ends.
We left and headed towards the Dardenelles and caught a ferry over to Canakkale. On the ferry we were next to a bus of forty children and four teachers on a week-long excursion. Some of our group chatted to some of the children while we were crossing. There were a number of naval vessels which were visible during our crossing.
After a fair drive out of the town, we arrived at Tusan and our hotel. We were given our room keys, I investigated WiFi (definitely in the lobby, perhaps in the room) and then I went to my room (118). I set batteries to charge and set up the laptop – no WiFi signal. I processed the photos, then went to the lobby, couldn’t get a signal and mentioned to the clerk and, within a minute, signal. I started uploading the photos, checked the email and then wandered to see where the signal was – only in the lobby. I stayed there until I had finished (during which time two other tour buses came in), showed the movie of the Xi’an fountain show to some, then went in and had tea.
I sat with Robert (from Adelaide) and Sue and Lynn (from Sydney). Tea was a vegetable course, noodle soup, chicken with salad, bread, and finally ice cream. We all had a good talk about things over tea and then I showed them some of the photos from today (they seem to have come out okay), some from Istanbul, China and my favourite, Bryce Canyon. I’m pleased they seem to share my love of it.
After that it was back to my room (where I discovered there IS a plug for the bath/sink – but I can’t really do any washing tonight) where I changed for the night, wrote my blog and finally started to get ready for bed by about 1010. I aim to be up before 0600 tomorrow.
The suitcase was left outside the door and I went down for breakfast (with Vegemite and laptop). Despite being there at 0700, there were already quite a few there (so I will try for 0645 tomorrow, rather than being on time, as I can post this blog and check emails anyway), so I had to sit at a large table (with no-one else) to ensure I could get an Internet WiFi signal.
I had breakfast and received a few emails (and sent out a few, replies to ones sent only a few minutes earlier) and was back to Room 116 at 0740. It was finish my preparations, pack the pack completely and scan the room for things left behind. What amazed me was that I had left a pin and tip on the bed (which I normally don’t do, but each morning my pyjamas have been buttoned and folded) and it had gone! At 0750 I went slowly down to the bus and found most had already got on. After looking at the available seats, I decided on one of two spare at the back and I would take pot luck with whoever took the other. In the end, it was Sue, who will also be on the tour in Egypt.
The bus set off at just after 0800, along the south side of the Golden Horn. I got to see a few of the sights I had seen from the sightseeing bus, including the motorbike on an elevated stand at the Police Motor Headquarters. The traffic was quite heavy, as it was Monday and a normal working morning and we were in peak hour traffic.
As we left the city we got to see different suburbs and different areas, some with only low, middle or upper class housing, while some areas had all together. Low class housing was more predominant around the industrial suburbs, even though some of them were being rebuilt.
After a while we turned southward, then after reaching the coast of the sea of Marmara we followed it along the northern edge, past what had been little villages and what were now retreats for foreigners (because of relatively low prices) and finally, by lunchtime, to the settlement of Gallipoli.
Here we stopped for lunch, but Sue and I went for a walk around the town. There was a neat little fishing harbour where the restaurant was, then commercial and retail streets in the immediate area. Sue found out that the bricks used for building here are very light. It was fun seeing the goods on sale and the prices and variety. In some places they were unique, like sheep’s heads (raw or cooked), while in others there were what you would see in any large store in Australia (even the same brand, but with different electrical cords). There were a large number of students in uniform walking the streets, and we tried to find out from three boys whether they were going home to (or coming back from) lunch or if they had finished for the day. Neither of us understood the other, so it remained a mystery for the next half hour (only solved because we passed a school with students in the yard on our way out of town). On our way back to the bus, I saw a photogenic dog – but was amazed when it roused on hearing the shutter and then went back to sleep when it realised I wasn’t coming over. There was also a back harbour, with smaller and poorer boats than the front harbour. A horse and cart, with the driver selling vegetables, had only moved about twenty metres in the time we had walked up and down.
Just before we got to the bus, I saw a European semi-trailer, so I couldn’t resist getting a photo. They only have six wheels on the trailer (three singles each side, unlike Australian with three doubles each side) and only one rear axle on the prime mover (unlike Australian with tandem axles).
We set off for Gallipoli (the peninsula) and arrived there in a short time. It is a very good showpiece for having either rails or raised roadways, with limited transport (perhaps shuttles), to minimise the damage while maximising access. However, as things are the way they are, we drove in by bus and stopped at Anzac Cove and a short look around, then up to Lone Pine and again a short look around. Then, but for a different reason, we went to the Turkish memorial for their 57th Brigade and also stopped there.
I had wondered what it would be like at Gallipoli, understanding its significance in our national psyche, but without any personal involvement (unlike the Somme, where my grandfather fought and won a medal). I felt moved and saddened while there, but did not experience the total depth of emotion that I did at the Somme. Perhaps after some more reading, or visiting by myself (though I doubt I will ever make it back), it will move me more. I do think that the depth of emotion is governed by the personal links to the area, and if I ever find a relative was involved there, then I may feel differently. However, like in France and Belgium, I felt no animosity towards soldiers from the other side, but I did feel despair that politicians used (and continue to use) ordinary people, their lives and emotions, to further their own ends.
We left and headed towards the Dardenelles and caught a ferry over to Canakkale. On the ferry we were next to a bus of forty children and four teachers on a week-long excursion. Some of our group chatted to some of the children while we were crossing. There were a number of naval vessels which were visible during our crossing.
After a fair drive out of the town, we arrived at Tusan and our hotel. We were given our room keys, I investigated WiFi (definitely in the lobby, perhaps in the room) and then I went to my room (118). I set batteries to charge and set up the laptop – no WiFi signal. I processed the photos, then went to the lobby, couldn’t get a signal and mentioned to the clerk and, within a minute, signal. I started uploading the photos, checked the email and then wandered to see where the signal was – only in the lobby. I stayed there until I had finished (during which time two other tour buses came in), showed the movie of the Xi’an fountain show to some, then went in and had tea.
I sat with Robert (from Adelaide) and Sue and Lynn (from Sydney). Tea was a vegetable course, noodle soup, chicken with salad, bread, and finally ice cream. We all had a good talk about things over tea and then I showed them some of the photos from today (they seem to have come out okay), some from Istanbul, China and my favourite, Bryce Canyon. I’m pleased they seem to share my love of it.
After that it was back to my room (where I discovered there IS a plug for the bath/sink – but I can’t really do any washing tonight) where I changed for the night, wrote my blog and finally started to get ready for bed by about 1010. I aim to be up before 0600 tomorrow.
Sunday, October 19, 2008
19 October
Today I slept in – deliberately, sort of, in that I had no urgent pressing engagements and nothing in particular I wanted to visit. I wasn’t down for breakfast until nearly 0730.
Breakfast was fairly quiet until after 0800 when Joan saw my Vegemite and introduced herself. She and her husband, Lou are also on the Cosmos tour and arrived yesterday sometime. I spent a little time answering two emails (I’m glad someone is reading these, as I haven’t received any emails or comments directly from anyone who read my “extraordinary” entry), then met Lynn and Sue, who are also on the same tour. I suppose I won’t find out until 1800 tonight (our orientation meeting) how many are actually on it). We chatted about past touring and what could be good (and not so good, of the optional tours) and then I headed back up.
I got ready for the day, which was shirt weather (so the “vest” went on, to store and carry all the valuables). My room had already been done, so I finished the washing and hung it all up, hoping at least some of it would dry during the day. Then I set out for the day and ran into Sue and Lynn again, catching up with another who had just finished the tour and discussing alternatives (and what to do today).
I walked down to the ferry terminal and followed the example of two German girls who just got a token and set off on the next ferry. At the Eminonu terminal I caught the ferry to Kadikoy and got off there. I walked around to the railway station at Haydarpasa where they just had a Railway conference (NOT Railroad!) This was the terminal for the Asian side and Serkici was the terminal for the European side (the Orient Express used to run to here, but now only does so once a year and on special occasions). From here, in a decorated but small terminal, I caught the ferry to Karskoy, which is just north across the Galata Bridge from the station and the hotel. As there was an ATM right there, in the open, I used that to top up my supply of Turkish currency (and hope I don’t need any more). After that I walked along the waterfront, along the Golden Horn (north side), past the little markets (where I suspect some of the fisherman stop by on the way home) and the people fishing (including some very young ones) and finally along roads up to Taksim. The monument here was blocked off, with a policeman patrolling with a machine pistol (I’ve never seen so many automatic rifles and pistols). I rang Fran and (aunt) Jean here and then had lunch. On my way out I saw riot police out and asked some people there why. According too them (and there may be a problem in translation, today is a national day of some sort or a festival/public celebration and the police are ready for trouble. There are also a few armoured cars with water cannon ready, but not out. I walked back to hotel through alleys and across Galata Bridge, guided by my GPS. Along the way I saw some interesting sights, including ancient wall bits right on the main road (and where the footpath disappears and you have to walk on the road and then back on the footpath when it reappears). I was back to the hotel by 1500 and found … the washing was not dry! Also, for some reason, there was a bottle of water outside my door. I wonder if it is a Cosmos bonus?
I downloaded the photos, processed them and then wrote up most of my blog for the day. After I went down to the lobby and uploaded the photos and blog and checked for mail.
Here I ran into Carol and Christine, from Sydney, who just finished the Greek Cosmos tour and are joining the Turkey tour. Looks like there will be quite a few Australians on it.
I attended the meeting and it looks like it will be … interesting.
It started with a number missing (which presumably he should know about because he has flight details) and a number late. I hope that isn’t a sign for the future, especially after the first tour I was on having everyone being early.
There are complaints about the rooms already. Toilets blocked, air conditioners faulty, rooms too hot, rooms too small, no plugs for basins, smoke in rooms.
It looks like it will be easier for me to ask about Internet at Reception when we book in rather than relying on Aran (our tour director).
There are queries about prices and charges, because different booklets have different methods of paying in them.
I asked about a new luggage tag because the staff broke mine on the last day on the first tour (and I only got given one for three tours). No, there aren’t any – we don’t have them because we are an independent company (how hard is to freight over a number to keep in offices and distribute a few to each tour director).
Some of the other queries got short shrift and already newbies are picked out because of the questions asked. I wonder how I will go with my food allergies?
Morning call is at 0630, breakfast is at 0700 (with bags out then – most annoying as it means I have to carry toothbrush and Vegemite with me all day) and bus entry at 0800. We have to work a seat rotation, so I wonder who I will be with and how we will work out window/aisle seating. It is all a learning experience.
After, I went back to my room and finished this blog entry (so I’ll repost in the morning), checked the washing (still isn’t dry, so I won’t wash clothes tonight), left the laptop to charge and charged a battery for Lynn (she forgot that it won’t charge unless you have the room key tag in, a most annoying feature of some hotels/motels).
Now to get an early night, a good sleep and to approach tomorrow with a positive attitude.
Aside:
It’s interesting to see what priorities people have. One comment made was that people here litter. In that case, there are many more countries further up the misdemeanour list. Although litter may be unsightly and cause an inconvenience, I would put universal safe drinking water, drainage and toilet facilities higher on the priority list. That is the greatest improvement for public health. The second would be to stop spitting and the consequent spread of disease. Then I would have regular and frequent garbage collections and rubbish bins out on the streets – one reason I would say people litter is that there is nowhere to put the litter.
It seems some people have not learned the public health improvements made nearly 150 years ago and which worked are effective. Unfortunately Australia is going backwards in many of them, with partially treated recycled water and the removal of rubbish bins (or amount of rubbish which can be dumped). In other countries with the same philosophy of minimising rubbish collections, people find more creative ways of getting rid of excess rubbish, usually not safely or healthily.
Also, having seen some of the living conditions of people in Istanbul (and knowing they are better than in many other places in Turkey, public housing and health would be better areas to focus on.
Today I also saw many homeless. At the airport, one was pointed out to me. Here, in the city, there are many visible. Knowing that there are also many illegal immigrants here to have a better life, for a lot of people just existing must be difficult day to day. One thing travel has made me realise is that despite all the failings in Australia and the hardships created by governments of all persuasions, people don’t HAVE to starve or be homeless in Australia (though many choose to do so for personal reasons at particular times) as there are both government and other bodies which can and do assist.
Breakfast was fairly quiet until after 0800 when Joan saw my Vegemite and introduced herself. She and her husband, Lou are also on the Cosmos tour and arrived yesterday sometime. I spent a little time answering two emails (I’m glad someone is reading these, as I haven’t received any emails or comments directly from anyone who read my “extraordinary” entry), then met Lynn and Sue, who are also on the same tour. I suppose I won’t find out until 1800 tonight (our orientation meeting) how many are actually on it). We chatted about past touring and what could be good (and not so good, of the optional tours) and then I headed back up.
I got ready for the day, which was shirt weather (so the “vest” went on, to store and carry all the valuables). My room had already been done, so I finished the washing and hung it all up, hoping at least some of it would dry during the day. Then I set out for the day and ran into Sue and Lynn again, catching up with another who had just finished the tour and discussing alternatives (and what to do today).
I walked down to the ferry terminal and followed the example of two German girls who just got a token and set off on the next ferry. At the Eminonu terminal I caught the ferry to Kadikoy and got off there. I walked around to the railway station at Haydarpasa where they just had a Railway conference (NOT Railroad!) This was the terminal for the Asian side and Serkici was the terminal for the European side (the Orient Express used to run to here, but now only does so once a year and on special occasions). From here, in a decorated but small terminal, I caught the ferry to Karskoy, which is just north across the Galata Bridge from the station and the hotel. As there was an ATM right there, in the open, I used that to top up my supply of Turkish currency (and hope I don’t need any more). After that I walked along the waterfront, along the Golden Horn (north side), past the little markets (where I suspect some of the fisherman stop by on the way home) and the people fishing (including some very young ones) and finally along roads up to Taksim. The monument here was blocked off, with a policeman patrolling with a machine pistol (I’ve never seen so many automatic rifles and pistols). I rang Fran and (aunt) Jean here and then had lunch. On my way out I saw riot police out and asked some people there why. According too them (and there may be a problem in translation, today is a national day of some sort or a festival/public celebration and the police are ready for trouble. There are also a few armoured cars with water cannon ready, but not out. I walked back to hotel through alleys and across Galata Bridge, guided by my GPS. Along the way I saw some interesting sights, including ancient wall bits right on the main road (and where the footpath disappears and you have to walk on the road and then back on the footpath when it reappears). I was back to the hotel by 1500 and found … the washing was not dry! Also, for some reason, there was a bottle of water outside my door. I wonder if it is a Cosmos bonus?
I downloaded the photos, processed them and then wrote up most of my blog for the day. After I went down to the lobby and uploaded the photos and blog and checked for mail.
Here I ran into Carol and Christine, from Sydney, who just finished the Greek Cosmos tour and are joining the Turkey tour. Looks like there will be quite a few Australians on it.
I attended the meeting and it looks like it will be … interesting.
It started with a number missing (which presumably he should know about because he has flight details) and a number late. I hope that isn’t a sign for the future, especially after the first tour I was on having everyone being early.
There are complaints about the rooms already. Toilets blocked, air conditioners faulty, rooms too hot, rooms too small, no plugs for basins, smoke in rooms.
It looks like it will be easier for me to ask about Internet at Reception when we book in rather than relying on Aran (our tour director).
There are queries about prices and charges, because different booklets have different methods of paying in them.
I asked about a new luggage tag because the staff broke mine on the last day on the first tour (and I only got given one for three tours). No, there aren’t any – we don’t have them because we are an independent company (how hard is to freight over a number to keep in offices and distribute a few to each tour director).
Some of the other queries got short shrift and already newbies are picked out because of the questions asked. I wonder how I will go with my food allergies?
Morning call is at 0630, breakfast is at 0700 (with bags out then – most annoying as it means I have to carry toothbrush and Vegemite with me all day) and bus entry at 0800. We have to work a seat rotation, so I wonder who I will be with and how we will work out window/aisle seating. It is all a learning experience.
After, I went back to my room and finished this blog entry (so I’ll repost in the morning), checked the washing (still isn’t dry, so I won’t wash clothes tonight), left the laptop to charge and charged a battery for Lynn (she forgot that it won’t charge unless you have the room key tag in, a most annoying feature of some hotels/motels).
Now to get an early night, a good sleep and to approach tomorrow with a positive attitude.
Aside:
It’s interesting to see what priorities people have. One comment made was that people here litter. In that case, there are many more countries further up the misdemeanour list. Although litter may be unsightly and cause an inconvenience, I would put universal safe drinking water, drainage and toilet facilities higher on the priority list. That is the greatest improvement for public health. The second would be to stop spitting and the consequent spread of disease. Then I would have regular and frequent garbage collections and rubbish bins out on the streets – one reason I would say people litter is that there is nowhere to put the litter.
It seems some people have not learned the public health improvements made nearly 150 years ago and which worked are effective. Unfortunately Australia is going backwards in many of them, with partially treated recycled water and the removal of rubbish bins (or amount of rubbish which can be dumped). In other countries with the same philosophy of minimising rubbish collections, people find more creative ways of getting rid of excess rubbish, usually not safely or healthily.
Also, having seen some of the living conditions of people in Istanbul (and knowing they are better than in many other places in Turkey, public housing and health would be better areas to focus on.
Today I also saw many homeless. At the airport, one was pointed out to me. Here, in the city, there are many visible. Knowing that there are also many illegal immigrants here to have a better life, for a lot of people just existing must be difficult day to day. One thing travel has made me realise is that despite all the failings in Australia and the hardships created by governments of all persuasions, people don’t HAVE to starve or be homeless in Australia (though many choose to do so for personal reasons at particular times) as there are both government and other bodies which can and do assist.
Saturday, October 18, 2008
18 October
After rising as usual, having breakfast and then departing the hotel by 0830, I was down bright and early for the City Sightseeing Istanbul Hop on - Hop off tour – but unfortunately too early, as they don’t start until 1000. Having been foiled there I went to the Archaeological Museum – perhaps the cheapest and best value so far, at YTL10 and I spent over three and a half hours looking at the exhibits (and could have spent a lot longer, but decided I was becoming a museum junkie and I should try to break the habit before I find the craving overtakes me completely).
The exhibits are arranged in historical order, from pre-history through to Nineteenth Century. Indispersed are exhibits from Troy and other particular places, plus the museum has a small childrens’ centre, where there is a Trojan Horse small ones can climb into.
I finally had to drag myself away and finally made it up to the City Sightseeing Istanbul Hop on - Hop off tour by just before 1300 and caught that tour, sitting up the front (but this time having a full windscreen in front of me so I wouldn’t get clobbered by a branch again – this is the SAME COMPANY which runs the Paris tour I went on!).
The tour covers seventy-three places, which I was going to list, but I think now I’ll wait until I get home and just put the brochure through the scanner (as the destinations aren’t on their web site yet). However, some interesting parts: the hop on - hop off stops are just on the side of the street, so you’d better be there on time because they can only stop for a short time; this didn’t stop the driver and guide from stopping on a bridge and ordering a cup of tea from a street-side vendor and then waiting for it to be made and passed in; the driver managed to stop on a roundabout exit and then back into a stopping place, backwards through all the traffic; at some points, taxis in front of us disappeared from our sigh completely and the other front-seat passengers and myself couldn’t see them even when leaning completely forward.
After I got off from that I had another late lunch (I don’t know how I will adapt next week when it is set meal times) and walked back to the hotel to divest myself of tickets and brochures (otherwise I tend to bend or drop them) and then headed off to the Galata Tower, which I had seen from the bus and took my fancy.
That was a surprisingly short walk, and part of that was through a subway where I saw two interesting shops; one was selling chain saws (obviously impulse buys by people walking pass – “I’ll buy a chain saw, because I never know when I’ll need one and it will come in handy anyway”) and the other was selling remote controls – all appeared new and were packaged, and the range was HUGE!
I walked up to the tower and was fortunate enough to go straight in – at YTL10 yet again – and almost straight up seven floors in the lift, so I only had to walk up three floors. It was quite crowded around the parapet, but the views were very good. If you look at the photos from there, you will see distant ones appear hazy – pollution!
I walked back through small streets and alleys. I saw an interesting way of enforcing one-way traffic (the spikes) and ran across a Turkish Romeo and Juliet – who were kind enough to pose for me, even though they didn’t understand English.
The bridge was filled with fishermen (no women that I could see) and some had good catches, but the fish were only about ten centimetres long. A fillet would perhaps provide a small hors d’ouvres. I was tempted to buy a cob of corn (a lot are sold on the street and smell very nice) but resisted and only got a can of Coke Zero from the “hole in the wall” shop on the street just before the hotel (and at YTL1,25, it’s the cheapest in Istanbul).
Back in the hotel I started to process the photos – good job I numbered from the thousands to start with as I still have another day here myself and then a day and a half with the tour. I didn’t finish that until 1915 and then rushed down to the lobby to get Internet access and check my mail, send out my mail and start uploading the photos. While that was happening I had enough time to write this blog and post it. I still have to do my washing, so have to do some of that tonight and some tomorrow night (shirts dry quickest – singlets dry slowest). At 2000, it looks like I won’t be back at my room until after 2100 at the earliest. The trials of trying to record so much!
As a matter of interest, I have been picked as a writer by a number of people I’ve spoken too. I’m not sure what it is, but I’ll have to find out why.
The exhibits are arranged in historical order, from pre-history through to Nineteenth Century. Indispersed are exhibits from Troy and other particular places, plus the museum has a small childrens’ centre, where there is a Trojan Horse small ones can climb into.
I finally had to drag myself away and finally made it up to the City Sightseeing Istanbul Hop on - Hop off tour by just before 1300 and caught that tour, sitting up the front (but this time having a full windscreen in front of me so I wouldn’t get clobbered by a branch again – this is the SAME COMPANY which runs the Paris tour I went on!).
The tour covers seventy-three places, which I was going to list, but I think now I’ll wait until I get home and just put the brochure through the scanner (as the destinations aren’t on their web site yet). However, some interesting parts: the hop on - hop off stops are just on the side of the street, so you’d better be there on time because they can only stop for a short time; this didn’t stop the driver and guide from stopping on a bridge and ordering a cup of tea from a street-side vendor and then waiting for it to be made and passed in; the driver managed to stop on a roundabout exit and then back into a stopping place, backwards through all the traffic; at some points, taxis in front of us disappeared from our sigh completely and the other front-seat passengers and myself couldn’t see them even when leaning completely forward.
After I got off from that I had another late lunch (I don’t know how I will adapt next week when it is set meal times) and walked back to the hotel to divest myself of tickets and brochures (otherwise I tend to bend or drop them) and then headed off to the Galata Tower, which I had seen from the bus and took my fancy.
That was a surprisingly short walk, and part of that was through a subway where I saw two interesting shops; one was selling chain saws (obviously impulse buys by people walking pass – “I’ll buy a chain saw, because I never know when I’ll need one and it will come in handy anyway”) and the other was selling remote controls – all appeared new and were packaged, and the range was HUGE!
I walked up to the tower and was fortunate enough to go straight in – at YTL10 yet again – and almost straight up seven floors in the lift, so I only had to walk up three floors. It was quite crowded around the parapet, but the views were very good. If you look at the photos from there, you will see distant ones appear hazy – pollution!
I walked back through small streets and alleys. I saw an interesting way of enforcing one-way traffic (the spikes) and ran across a Turkish Romeo and Juliet – who were kind enough to pose for me, even though they didn’t understand English.
The bridge was filled with fishermen (no women that I could see) and some had good catches, but the fish were only about ten centimetres long. A fillet would perhaps provide a small hors d’ouvres. I was tempted to buy a cob of corn (a lot are sold on the street and smell very nice) but resisted and only got a can of Coke Zero from the “hole in the wall” shop on the street just before the hotel (and at YTL1,25, it’s the cheapest in Istanbul).
Back in the hotel I started to process the photos – good job I numbered from the thousands to start with as I still have another day here myself and then a day and a half with the tour. I didn’t finish that until 1915 and then rushed down to the lobby to get Internet access and check my mail, send out my mail and start uploading the photos. While that was happening I had enough time to write this blog and post it. I still have to do my washing, so have to do some of that tonight and some tomorrow night (shirts dry quickest – singlets dry slowest). At 2000, it looks like I won’t be back at my room until after 2100 at the earliest. The trials of trying to record so much!
As a matter of interest, I have been picked as a writer by a number of people I’ve spoken too. I’m not sure what it is, but I’ll have to find out why.
Friday, October 17, 2008
Extraordinary Entry
If you read this blog, I have no way of knowing.
You can drop me an email at dougmullett@gmail.com and, if you haven't already, you can look at the photos mentioned at flickr.com/photos/dougmullett
I'd be interested to know how many people read this, and whether they find it interesting or not.
You can drop me an email at dougmullett@gmail.com and, if you haven't already, you can look at the photos mentioned at flickr.com/photos/dougmullett
I'd be interested to know how many people read this, and whether they find it interesting or not.
17 October
After waking again at 0500 I finally rose about 0630 and prepared for breakfast.
I ran into the Australians (Jo and Rick) again over the table and also had a quick chat with a few others (another Australian couple, from Blackwater, had no Vegemite but the wife didn’t take up the offer to have some as they were leaving today).
Then it was back to the room to finish preparing for going out, but while putting my pack from the bed to the floor, I found a camera bag stuffed with ten Olympus batteries (marked 51 to 60), a lens cap and a camera remote. I dropped those at the desk on my way out.
Now I have oriented myself, everything is only a short walk away. It was just a matter of following the tram line around to the Aya Sofya museum and, after leaving the hotel at 0830 I was there at 0835. I read up a little while I was waiting, marvelled at the number of cats (they make bad choices of who to snuggle up to) and ended up talking with a student from Taiwan who is finishing five months of touring the world and will be returning to his home soon to look for a job in the Economics field.
The gates opened at 0900 exactly (and I was in the front of the line by then, as I think everyone else wanted to follow) and I asked about the Museum pass – but it’s only available to Turkish citizens (so I can’t get a discount!). I paid my TYL20 and went in at 0900:30.
The place has an interesting history, which really can be summarised as a church, burned down, rebuilt, then changed to a mosque after the city was taken by the Turks and eventually was proclaimed a museum under Ataturk. It is big – as one guide said to her group, the Statue of Liberty could fit under the dome. When you consider that it was originally built in the fifth century, that’s a feat of engineering which has to be admired. It is being restored (and probably will be for the foreseeable future), as each user added their own and took something away. I suppose the difficulty is working out what to restore and how to display it. Even as it is, it took a long time (for me) to go through it. During the time, I met a couple from the hotel who just finished the same tour I am going on and they offered a suggestion or two re alternative tours in some places.
Once out I went over to the Blue Mosque. Two things hit me – one was the number of tourists around – there are at least three cruise ships in with something like a total of five thousand passengers and so there are tour buses and tourists here by the thousand. The second was the magnamity of the Blue Mosque. Despite having the wear and tear of many tourists going through, and supplying free plastic bags for tourists to carry their shoes in, all that is requested is a donation as you leave. I was more than pleased to give some money, but left with a very good impression of the religious people in Istanbul.
Then I wanted to visit the Cisterns. The information in my Lonely Planet guide was unreliable on two counts – it gave the price in Euros, but it’s only quoted in Turkish Lira; it gave different prices (they were the same, TYL10 each) and claimed one gave a free drink. At the first Cistern, because it was so close I walked too far and had to backtrack to enter it. Currently it is used as an entertainment establishment in the evening, so it’s hard to create the ambience of the cisterns with water in them. However, because it has a floor, I could walk right up to the columns and examine them fairly closely (I wanted to, because instead of solid columns, they have two vertical sections with a wheel in between, which allows horizontal movement without collapse). Then I went to the Basilica Cistern – this still has water in it and has mood lighting. If you look at the pictures for today, you will see some where I have used flash (to show what’s there) and also used a time exposure (to capture the mood lighting).
After that it was in to have some lunch (about 1230 by now) and I ran into the Taiwanese student again! It’s remarkable how a face can become familiar within a few minutes and is remembered. After lunch I walked to the ferry terminals. Along the way I met and helped direct two Americans to the Grand Bazaar (you can always tell American men in particular as they address a stranger as “Sir”). Again I was surprised at how little time it took to reach the waterfront (and then realise it was only two minutes walk from the hotel).
I wandered along looking for what was on offer. The first (and the one I took) was TYL20 for about ninety minutes return along the Bosphorus, up to the second bridge. I boarded at 1340, and the ferry was due to depart at 1400. While waiting, I struck up conversation with a British couple (husband an engineer who has lectured in Australia at RMIT among other places; wife originally from Alexandria in Egypt) who were off one of the cruise ships.
The cruise started off about 1415 and was very good value, giving a total of one hundred and five minutes before it returned and cruising close to the European shore on the way up and the Asian shore on the way back. The photos give a good overview of the buildings, the green areas, the bridges and the shipping along the way. I also had a conversation with a French lady from Paris but originally from Brittainy. Just before the ferry docked, I was asked by a Dutch gentleman to photograph the whole family with him in it, and ended up talking to him about opportunities for young people (his daughter in particular) to visit and spend time in Australia.
On the way back to the hotel I was amazed by the number of fishermen – didn’t see anything caught, but saw a lot of enthusiasm. I also took a photo for a Spanish couple who seemed surprised that a stranger would offer to take their photo so they could look back and see themselves together in a place, instead of one or the other. I also ran into a couple from the hotel (husband from Turkey, wife from America). Within five minutes, including stopping to get a drink and drinking it, I was back in my room and processing the photos. Once I had done that I was down into the lobby, uploading the photos, sending out the daily email and writing up my blog for the day.
Once my photos have all gone, I will go up and prepare for the evening, perhaps doing some washing. After that, it’s to sleep and thoughts of what I will do tomorrow.
I ran into the Australians (Jo and Rick) again over the table and also had a quick chat with a few others (another Australian couple, from Blackwater, had no Vegemite but the wife didn’t take up the offer to have some as they were leaving today).
Then it was back to the room to finish preparing for going out, but while putting my pack from the bed to the floor, I found a camera bag stuffed with ten Olympus batteries (marked 51 to 60), a lens cap and a camera remote. I dropped those at the desk on my way out.
Now I have oriented myself, everything is only a short walk away. It was just a matter of following the tram line around to the Aya Sofya museum and, after leaving the hotel at 0830 I was there at 0835. I read up a little while I was waiting, marvelled at the number of cats (they make bad choices of who to snuggle up to) and ended up talking with a student from Taiwan who is finishing five months of touring the world and will be returning to his home soon to look for a job in the Economics field.
The gates opened at 0900 exactly (and I was in the front of the line by then, as I think everyone else wanted to follow) and I asked about the Museum pass – but it’s only available to Turkish citizens (so I can’t get a discount!). I paid my TYL20 and went in at 0900:30.
The place has an interesting history, which really can be summarised as a church, burned down, rebuilt, then changed to a mosque after the city was taken by the Turks and eventually was proclaimed a museum under Ataturk. It is big – as one guide said to her group, the Statue of Liberty could fit under the dome. When you consider that it was originally built in the fifth century, that’s a feat of engineering which has to be admired. It is being restored (and probably will be for the foreseeable future), as each user added their own and took something away. I suppose the difficulty is working out what to restore and how to display it. Even as it is, it took a long time (for me) to go through it. During the time, I met a couple from the hotel who just finished the same tour I am going on and they offered a suggestion or two re alternative tours in some places.
Once out I went over to the Blue Mosque. Two things hit me – one was the number of tourists around – there are at least three cruise ships in with something like a total of five thousand passengers and so there are tour buses and tourists here by the thousand. The second was the magnamity of the Blue Mosque. Despite having the wear and tear of many tourists going through, and supplying free plastic bags for tourists to carry their shoes in, all that is requested is a donation as you leave. I was more than pleased to give some money, but left with a very good impression of the religious people in Istanbul.
Then I wanted to visit the Cisterns. The information in my Lonely Planet guide was unreliable on two counts – it gave the price in Euros, but it’s only quoted in Turkish Lira; it gave different prices (they were the same, TYL10 each) and claimed one gave a free drink. At the first Cistern, because it was so close I walked too far and had to backtrack to enter it. Currently it is used as an entertainment establishment in the evening, so it’s hard to create the ambience of the cisterns with water in them. However, because it has a floor, I could walk right up to the columns and examine them fairly closely (I wanted to, because instead of solid columns, they have two vertical sections with a wheel in between, which allows horizontal movement without collapse). Then I went to the Basilica Cistern – this still has water in it and has mood lighting. If you look at the pictures for today, you will see some where I have used flash (to show what’s there) and also used a time exposure (to capture the mood lighting).
After that it was in to have some lunch (about 1230 by now) and I ran into the Taiwanese student again! It’s remarkable how a face can become familiar within a few minutes and is remembered. After lunch I walked to the ferry terminals. Along the way I met and helped direct two Americans to the Grand Bazaar (you can always tell American men in particular as they address a stranger as “Sir”). Again I was surprised at how little time it took to reach the waterfront (and then realise it was only two minutes walk from the hotel).
I wandered along looking for what was on offer. The first (and the one I took) was TYL20 for about ninety minutes return along the Bosphorus, up to the second bridge. I boarded at 1340, and the ferry was due to depart at 1400. While waiting, I struck up conversation with a British couple (husband an engineer who has lectured in Australia at RMIT among other places; wife originally from Alexandria in Egypt) who were off one of the cruise ships.
The cruise started off about 1415 and was very good value, giving a total of one hundred and five minutes before it returned and cruising close to the European shore on the way up and the Asian shore on the way back. The photos give a good overview of the buildings, the green areas, the bridges and the shipping along the way. I also had a conversation with a French lady from Paris but originally from Brittainy. Just before the ferry docked, I was asked by a Dutch gentleman to photograph the whole family with him in it, and ended up talking to him about opportunities for young people (his daughter in particular) to visit and spend time in Australia.
On the way back to the hotel I was amazed by the number of fishermen – didn’t see anything caught, but saw a lot of enthusiasm. I also took a photo for a Spanish couple who seemed surprised that a stranger would offer to take their photo so they could look back and see themselves together in a place, instead of one or the other. I also ran into a couple from the hotel (husband from Turkey, wife from America). Within five minutes, including stopping to get a drink and drinking it, I was back in my room and processing the photos. Once I had done that I was down into the lobby, uploading the photos, sending out the daily email and writing up my blog for the day.
Once my photos have all gone, I will go up and prepare for the evening, perhaps doing some washing. After that, it’s to sleep and thoughts of what I will do tomorrow.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
16 October
I couldn’t help it – my body clock is still set for Moscow time and so I woke at 0500 and then dozed until 0600, when I got up and started to get ready for breakfast. I was down before 0700 and checked my email (and looked for a reply for the Americans on whose behalf I had sent a request about a lack of transfer to the airport but there was no reply – not happy chappies!). At 0700 I started breakfast – perhaps I have been spoiled by the choice at some other hotels, but there was only one real problem – no toast! To add insult to injury, I was told afterwards I could ask for it.
Then after, down in the lobby, I met Jo and Rick from Australia (and there are others jogging around Istanbul in shorts, as I saw them on my walk to the Topkapi Palace Museum).
I left by 0830 and walked to Topkapi Palace Museum. It wasn’t that far to walk, but I must admit I did cheat a little – I used the GPS to mark the position of the hotel and walked in the general direction until I saw hordes of tourists and directional signs. Once I got my ticket to go in at 0915, I went in, then queued and got a ticket for the Harem. The guide book said it was a guided tour and it was quick, but in fact there was no guide, no guided tour and I cold walk at my own pace, read the boards (Turkish and English) and spend time looking at things. While looking, I met Marshall and Barb from Canada. We commented to each other about the detail and quality of the work in the buildings, and ended up talking about trips and visiting Australia. After that, we parted (they are Istanbul 0157) and I continued looking over the different areas. Unfortunately like in any of these, the continued opulence and show of wealth becomes tiring when taken in one go (I think the idea of two day entry tickets has a lot of merit). After seeing the library, circumcision room (enough to bring tears to one’s eyes) and what is now the restaurant, I met Christina, a nurse from Chicago/Utah while in the Treasury and looking as precious stones. We parted after that, sharing only a little, but ran into each other again (where a guard thought we were together) and swapped names and a few more life stories. She went to get a ticket to the Harem and was under the belief, as I HAD been, that there were only guided tours. I went and looked over the Palace Kitchens. These housed a display of porcelain from China and Japan, which had mostly been transported over the Silk Road. I found the notice about it rather poignant as I had been at Xi’an less than two weeks ago. Here I met couple from Brisbane.
After that, which was nearly four and half hours, I walked back to the hotel. The day was warm and I wanted to divest myself of my jacket and any valuables, as I wanted to visit the Grand Bazaar. I left most things (and the batteries plugged in to charge, but I found out the power goes off when I removed the key, so flat batteries still for the camera AND for the computer), then went for my walk to the Grand Bazaar. It wasn’t as far as I thought, and there were a great many things on sale. It is very large (like the Queen Vic markets on steroids) but covered over completely. Contrary to reports, I found it wasn’t crowded, but that may have been because the number of cruise ships in has diminished (and they leave soon). A carpet salesman (Istanbul 0324) tried to get me interested in purchasing a carpet, but he had no success. Unfortunately I have no money left to purchase things not budgeted for and the shipping would break the budget for the next few months. After having a good look around, I walked back to hotel and had some interesting sights on the way back. Apart from a variety of shops and restaurants, and of course interesting people, there was one man carrying a heavy load and bent nearly double, but he burst out laughing when he saw me photograph him. I got back to the hotel about 1700 and decided I would call it a day – although I may have dinner in the hotel, as I had a bread loaf and kit-kat for lunch (but I did have vegetables for breakfast and am keeping up with vitamin pills).
I uploaded the last previous photos to catch up, then processed today’s photos (and sent a copy to the carpet salesman) and wrote this up while the photos were being uploaded (and 392 photos take a bit of time, even if they are shrunk!).
Then after, down in the lobby, I met Jo and Rick from Australia (and there are others jogging around Istanbul in shorts, as I saw them on my walk to the Topkapi Palace Museum).
I left by 0830 and walked to Topkapi Palace Museum. It wasn’t that far to walk, but I must admit I did cheat a little – I used the GPS to mark the position of the hotel and walked in the general direction until I saw hordes of tourists and directional signs. Once I got my ticket to go in at 0915, I went in, then queued and got a ticket for the Harem. The guide book said it was a guided tour and it was quick, but in fact there was no guide, no guided tour and I cold walk at my own pace, read the boards (Turkish and English) and spend time looking at things. While looking, I met Marshall and Barb from Canada. We commented to each other about the detail and quality of the work in the buildings, and ended up talking about trips and visiting Australia. After that, we parted (they are Istanbul 0157) and I continued looking over the different areas. Unfortunately like in any of these, the continued opulence and show of wealth becomes tiring when taken in one go (I think the idea of two day entry tickets has a lot of merit). After seeing the library, circumcision room (enough to bring tears to one’s eyes) and what is now the restaurant, I met Christina, a nurse from Chicago/Utah while in the Treasury and looking as precious stones. We parted after that, sharing only a little, but ran into each other again (where a guard thought we were together) and swapped names and a few more life stories. She went to get a ticket to the Harem and was under the belief, as I HAD been, that there were only guided tours. I went and looked over the Palace Kitchens. These housed a display of porcelain from China and Japan, which had mostly been transported over the Silk Road. I found the notice about it rather poignant as I had been at Xi’an less than two weeks ago. Here I met couple from Brisbane.
After that, which was nearly four and half hours, I walked back to the hotel. The day was warm and I wanted to divest myself of my jacket and any valuables, as I wanted to visit the Grand Bazaar. I left most things (and the batteries plugged in to charge, but I found out the power goes off when I removed the key, so flat batteries still for the camera AND for the computer), then went for my walk to the Grand Bazaar. It wasn’t as far as I thought, and there were a great many things on sale. It is very large (like the Queen Vic markets on steroids) but covered over completely. Contrary to reports, I found it wasn’t crowded, but that may have been because the number of cruise ships in has diminished (and they leave soon). A carpet salesman (Istanbul 0324) tried to get me interested in purchasing a carpet, but he had no success. Unfortunately I have no money left to purchase things not budgeted for and the shipping would break the budget for the next few months. After having a good look around, I walked back to hotel and had some interesting sights on the way back. Apart from a variety of shops and restaurants, and of course interesting people, there was one man carrying a heavy load and bent nearly double, but he burst out laughing when he saw me photograph him. I got back to the hotel about 1700 and decided I would call it a day – although I may have dinner in the hotel, as I had a bread loaf and kit-kat for lunch (but I did have vegetables for breakfast and am keeping up with vitamin pills).
I uploaded the last previous photos to catch up, then processed today’s photos (and sent a copy to the carpet salesman) and wrote this up while the photos were being uploaded (and 392 photos take a bit of time, even if they are shrunk!).
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
15 October
Despite not having to get up early, I still woke up at the usual time for me (0600). I decided to put the time to good use and packed everything before I prepared for breakfast. And so it was that by 0715 I had repacked my suitcase (and made it lighter, I thought) and the backpack and computer bag. By 0730 I was ready to wander down for breakfast.
Today I decided I should be good, so after toast (with Vegemite, of course) I had vegetables followed by bacon with fritters (or pikelets, if that’s what you call them – small thick pancakes) and that did me in. Despite having a lot of time spare, my stomach had no space left. I am dreading stepping onto the scales when I get home, as I think I will have gained weight, not lost it (which is what I want to happen).
I then took the opportunity to look around the hotel, as it is very large and I wanted to see how to get down to the lobby area where I was to meet my driver. I did that, then went back to my room and made sure I had everything and at 0915 I checked out.
I waited for a little time in the reception lobby, observing humanity pass me bay until I saw (yes, truly) schools heading into the hall (the same concert hall of the truncated Russian Folk Dancing show, of many weeks ago now) for some kind of work on space. At that point I gave up and went down, ready to meet my driver and be on time.
But at 1020, after he was to be there at 1000, I started to become concerned. I rang the number given and got – no such number! So I rang the old number given, asked if they spoke English (and was then put trough to another) and explained that I was waiting for my driver who was now twenty-five minutes late. The answer – I cannot help you! That floored me and I went up to reception and asked them to ring for me. The girl who rang for me was getting the same run-around (by the exasperated look which appeared on her face in a few moments of getting an answer) when suddenly the driver appeared. He apologised for being late (traffic, but that is normal) and we set off for the airport.
Within a few minutes we were in another traffic jam, but I wasn’t too worried as at least I was on my way. Police cars and ambulances rushed by us down the emergency lane, by we didn’t come across any place where there actually was a collision. We turned off the St Petersburg road and onto the airport road straight into another traffic jam which miraculously cleared.
Now I remind you that I did 185 km/hr in my little Renault Clio on a German Autobahn. That was sedate and safe compared to 140 km/hr in a little Hyundai Excel which had a terrible wobble in the rear axle and stil had a system check warning light on the dash which had been there from before I left to go to China.
We made it to the airport by 1145 (for which I think I may well join, or at least patronise, the Orthodox Church, as divine intervention can have been the only thing which saved me) and I unloaded my luggage to enter the airport. Here, the check-in gates were after a security check. At the check-in gate I only had to show my passport, which was as well as I got the copy of the e-ticket after I left home and so couldn’t print it, and put my luggage in. It came up as 23.6 kg, which was a surprise to me as I had used 750 gram of food and posted home souvenirs from Beijing, so it should have been lighter. I will have to post other things home from Turkey to minimise my weight for flying home, as I don’t want to leave Cairo with an excess luggage charge all the way to Australia.
Then it was through to passport control. For some reason (do I look distinguished?) I was sent through the Diplomatic Channel. Still, I was through quickly and then into the boarding gate area. Each gate had its own screening, but because everything had worked efficiently to this point, the boarding gate 11 was still being used for a previous flight.
I had to wait until 1230 before I could go through. Here they have trays for shoes (and plastic bootees to wear while your shoes are off) and other trays for clothes, but didn’t require the laptop to be separate (which everywhere else does). When I went through the detector I didn’t set anything off, but still got patted down.
Then it was waiting in the lounge, but at least I got a seat there. At 1315 (on time according to the sign, but 15 minutes late according to the boarding pass) we boarded and I got my window seat (20F) on a AirBus 310-200.
Now it so happened that the other two seats ended up being occupied by two young Russian ladies – one of whom didn’t bother to use a seat belt nor put her seat upright for takeoff or landing, despite being told twice to do so.
After an uneventful but bumpy flight we landed at Istanbul on time. The first order of business was to buy a visa to enter the country. I can at least commend the Turks for their honesty – the visa is just a way of making money from tourists and they don’t pretend otherwise. So, €15 lighter, I had my visa and went onto passport control where I was through in a very short time (after a bit of waiting, but nothing like at Sydney Airport). Still, my luggage beat me through! I saw it as I headed to the carousel with it zooming away from me. I got it and headed off to go through Customs. Good job I had nothing to declare as the “Goods to Declare” channel was closed!
Out in the passenger exit area, I saw plenty of names – but nothing that referred to me. I was prepared togo with my name, the name of the hotel or the name of the tour company, but after three trips up and down – no luck. I went to Information, where they paged me on the grounds that anyone looking for me would go to the same place. The logic was good, but incorrect – I went back yet again and this time found a young man (Evrim) with a Cosmos-Archer sign, who when I walked to him greeted me by name.
Thenit was outside and a quick phone call and a wait for the car and driver to appear. Once the luggage, me and Evrim all were in the vehicle, we set off – straight into an Istanbul traffic jam! Nevertheless we made it to the hotel in less than an hour. I got told that the tram is the best way for me to return to the airport, as a taxi will cost about 40 Lira compared to 1,40 Lira for the tram. I am thinking that the tram will not suffer the same delays as the traffic will.
I checked into the hotel to find … wireless internet in the lobby only, but FREE! Up to my room, unpack a little and then down to the lobby and check email, send out an email for today and then start uploading pictures.
I heard Australian voices and quickly found out a few things.
There was a Cosmos Leisurely Tour of Turkey which had just come in.
If you wanted Internet access otherwise, there were problems because they were coin-operated but had Turkish keyboards.
I uploaded two sets of photos, sent an email for some Americans (one of whom works in the Boeing factory at Seattle) and posted some blogs. Then I ran out of power, took the laptop up to recharge and went out for a walk. I saw plenty of places to eat – it’s just whether I’m brave enough to try a few - and ended up just getting a can of coke Zero. I’m not sure what prices should be, but I will go out to a museum tomorrow and find my way – and perhaps post some more material home (my musical bear, guidebooks from Russia and China, and some Chinese souvenirs).
I’ve just finished posting all the photos I have processed to date (and already got someone to ask if I would put another in a collection) and found my fickle fans who deserted me have come back in droves (over 200 today). Now it is time, at 2200, to go to bed and see what the morning brings (other than breakfast at 0700 and some astonished looks from other Australians when I produce my Vegemite jar).
Today I decided I should be good, so after toast (with Vegemite, of course) I had vegetables followed by bacon with fritters (or pikelets, if that’s what you call them – small thick pancakes) and that did me in. Despite having a lot of time spare, my stomach had no space left. I am dreading stepping onto the scales when I get home, as I think I will have gained weight, not lost it (which is what I want to happen).
I then took the opportunity to look around the hotel, as it is very large and I wanted to see how to get down to the lobby area where I was to meet my driver. I did that, then went back to my room and made sure I had everything and at 0915 I checked out.
I waited for a little time in the reception lobby, observing humanity pass me bay until I saw (yes, truly) schools heading into the hall (the same concert hall of the truncated Russian Folk Dancing show, of many weeks ago now) for some kind of work on space. At that point I gave up and went down, ready to meet my driver and be on time.
But at 1020, after he was to be there at 1000, I started to become concerned. I rang the number given and got – no such number! So I rang the old number given, asked if they spoke English (and was then put trough to another) and explained that I was waiting for my driver who was now twenty-five minutes late. The answer – I cannot help you! That floored me and I went up to reception and asked them to ring for me. The girl who rang for me was getting the same run-around (by the exasperated look which appeared on her face in a few moments of getting an answer) when suddenly the driver appeared. He apologised for being late (traffic, but that is normal) and we set off for the airport.
Within a few minutes we were in another traffic jam, but I wasn’t too worried as at least I was on my way. Police cars and ambulances rushed by us down the emergency lane, by we didn’t come across any place where there actually was a collision. We turned off the St Petersburg road and onto the airport road straight into another traffic jam which miraculously cleared.
Now I remind you that I did 185 km/hr in my little Renault Clio on a German Autobahn. That was sedate and safe compared to 140 km/hr in a little Hyundai Excel which had a terrible wobble in the rear axle and stil had a system check warning light on the dash which had been there from before I left to go to China.
We made it to the airport by 1145 (for which I think I may well join, or at least patronise, the Orthodox Church, as divine intervention can have been the only thing which saved me) and I unloaded my luggage to enter the airport. Here, the check-in gates were after a security check. At the check-in gate I only had to show my passport, which was as well as I got the copy of the e-ticket after I left home and so couldn’t print it, and put my luggage in. It came up as 23.6 kg, which was a surprise to me as I had used 750 gram of food and posted home souvenirs from Beijing, so it should have been lighter. I will have to post other things home from Turkey to minimise my weight for flying home, as I don’t want to leave Cairo with an excess luggage charge all the way to Australia.
Then it was through to passport control. For some reason (do I look distinguished?) I was sent through the Diplomatic Channel. Still, I was through quickly and then into the boarding gate area. Each gate had its own screening, but because everything had worked efficiently to this point, the boarding gate 11 was still being used for a previous flight.
I had to wait until 1230 before I could go through. Here they have trays for shoes (and plastic bootees to wear while your shoes are off) and other trays for clothes, but didn’t require the laptop to be separate (which everywhere else does). When I went through the detector I didn’t set anything off, but still got patted down.
Then it was waiting in the lounge, but at least I got a seat there. At 1315 (on time according to the sign, but 15 minutes late according to the boarding pass) we boarded and I got my window seat (20F) on a AirBus 310-200.
Now it so happened that the other two seats ended up being occupied by two young Russian ladies – one of whom didn’t bother to use a seat belt nor put her seat upright for takeoff or landing, despite being told twice to do so.
After an uneventful but bumpy flight we landed at Istanbul on time. The first order of business was to buy a visa to enter the country. I can at least commend the Turks for their honesty – the visa is just a way of making money from tourists and they don’t pretend otherwise. So, €15 lighter, I had my visa and went onto passport control where I was through in a very short time (after a bit of waiting, but nothing like at Sydney Airport). Still, my luggage beat me through! I saw it as I headed to the carousel with it zooming away from me. I got it and headed off to go through Customs. Good job I had nothing to declare as the “Goods to Declare” channel was closed!
Out in the passenger exit area, I saw plenty of names – but nothing that referred to me. I was prepared togo with my name, the name of the hotel or the name of the tour company, but after three trips up and down – no luck. I went to Information, where they paged me on the grounds that anyone looking for me would go to the same place. The logic was good, but incorrect – I went back yet again and this time found a young man (Evrim) with a Cosmos-Archer sign, who when I walked to him greeted me by name.
Thenit was outside and a quick phone call and a wait for the car and driver to appear. Once the luggage, me and Evrim all were in the vehicle, we set off – straight into an Istanbul traffic jam! Nevertheless we made it to the hotel in less than an hour. I got told that the tram is the best way for me to return to the airport, as a taxi will cost about 40 Lira compared to 1,40 Lira for the tram. I am thinking that the tram will not suffer the same delays as the traffic will.
I checked into the hotel to find … wireless internet in the lobby only, but FREE! Up to my room, unpack a little and then down to the lobby and check email, send out an email for today and then start uploading pictures.
I heard Australian voices and quickly found out a few things.
There was a Cosmos Leisurely Tour of Turkey which had just come in.
If you wanted Internet access otherwise, there were problems because they were coin-operated but had Turkish keyboards.
I uploaded two sets of photos, sent an email for some Americans (one of whom works in the Boeing factory at Seattle) and posted some blogs. Then I ran out of power, took the laptop up to recharge and went out for a walk. I saw plenty of places to eat – it’s just whether I’m brave enough to try a few - and ended up just getting a can of coke Zero. I’m not sure what prices should be, but I will go out to a museum tomorrow and find my way – and perhaps post some more material home (my musical bear, guidebooks from Russia and China, and some Chinese souvenirs).
I’ve just finished posting all the photos I have processed to date (and already got someone to ask if I would put another in a collection) and found my fickle fans who deserted me have come back in droves (over 200 today). Now it is time, at 2200, to go to bed and see what the morning brings (other than breakfast at 0700 and some astonished looks from other Australians when I produce my Vegemite jar).
14 October
The best laid plans of small rodents and homo sapiens gang oft awry.
And so it was today.
I woke and dozed fitfully after getting to bed early (perhaps too early) but finally got up at 0600 and did some washing for today (pyjamas and yesterday’s clothes). After hanging them up to dry, I then showered (yes, really showered) and got ready for today. Then it was down to the restaurant for the buffet breakfast (for which they charge 500 py6) and making the most of it. After finishing breakfast I went back up, arranged things and finished my preparations to go out for the day.
The first order of business was to visit Lenin. After being so close so many times, I thought I should at least drop in. To walk breakfast off, I got out at the Metro station after the Kremlin and then walked north back to it. It was through an area I had not been in before, and it was different from the tourist areas.
One of the disappointing things in Russia has been the number of ex-servicemen, presumably from previous military encounters the USSR and Russia have been involved in, begging in the streets. Usually they are legless and move on skateboard-type mechanisms, but today they were (or appeared to be) sound of limb, but singing and begging outside a Metro station. They certainly gave the appearance of battle-hardened veterans, and I for one would not like to meet them at the end of a weapon, yet they looked like they had no support from the state. That is common to a lot of countries, but I had thought that perhaps Russia’s experience with socialism would have meant provision was made for these people.
A second disappointing thing is the number of elderly people begging, usually elderly women. Again I would have hoped that the state would have supported them, but it may be that the provision made was not used wisely when the USSR spilt up and people were given title to buildings and land they occupied.
Once I got up to Lenin’s tomb and found I was at the right day and the right time, I then asked and got told, rather brusquely (unusually so far in my experience, but as I found out, common just here) to go to the Alexander Gardens (in English). On the way there I found the information was partially correct – the line formed outside there to go to Lenin’s tomb. In the short line I was only waiting a minute or so before we moved off – but before we could get to the next obstacle, cameras, bags, mobile phones with camera functions all had to be deposited in a cloakroom – in my case at 40 py6 for the camera bag with the mobile. Then at the metal detectors (of course) I set it off. The officer asked me to take out what was in my pockets to check no cameras and the EPIRB really threw him. HE had no idea of it, had never seen one and didn’t understand my explanation of what it did. However, to his credit, as soon as he saw there was no camera, he let me straight through. Then we all had to walk a convoluted path to get to the entrance of the tomb. Once inside, again along a convoluted path, we were directed by young guards, most of whom I would have put at about 16. Finally I reached Lenin and an anticlimax – wax effigies look more real! After that it was another convoluted path to regain Red Square and then a short walk to regain my possessions.
On the way back to a Metro station I ran into three parties – one an elderly Russian couple who I offered to take a photo of for them in from of Lenin’s tomb, but he hadn’t switched the camera on; another a pair of ladies (one younger, one older, from California and Kansas) who were trying to find the entrance to the Kremlin (I was able to direct them); the last a gentleman from Florida (who sells communications gear to the mines from Perth) who was wondering about visiting Lenin and I was able to give him the right information on that (and I saw him set off in line only a few minutes later). Then I caught the Metro back to the station near the hotel.
I had determined that the only other thing I really wanted to do was visit the Space Museum (its title is not quite that, but that’s the easiest way to explain it). It’s just over the road from the hotel – BUT … it’s undergoing renovations now that the tourist season is over! All I could do was walk around the park.
Back at the hotel I thought perhaps I would try to do some Internet work, so I bought an hour. Once logged on I began to upload the photos from the train trip. WRONG! A fault, and so all the first day’s pictures didn’t get uploaded. I started on the second and … the session timed out, so I have no idea of how many, if any were uploaded. The only successful part was sending and receiving emails – which worked out at about AUD2 per email – the most expensive I have ever sent and received. I can only hope that the hotel in Turkey has email included.
I went for a wander outside and found, only five minutes walk away, that Scottish dining establishment’s local office. I had some, most likely my last for a long time, and then returned to the hotel. On the way out I held the door open for a line of females and they all giggled – I don’t think the word “chivalry” exists in Russia. The weather is overcast, had been raining and looked as if it was going to rain again. As the only things I wanted to otherwise do were closed, I decided it was perhaps a rest, or lay day (lazy day?).
The first thing though was to write up today and some reflections on Russia, China and Mongolia.
Reflections.
The thing to note is that reflections are what you see in the mirror – so my reflections are only on what I saw. That limits me to the areas I visited and the people I interacted with, and is coloured by my ways of thinking. Therefore they are not definitive, but simply one aspect.
Russia
Definitely the highlight for me was my day with Alexander, my guide in Murmansk. Not only did he settle me into Russian ways, but he was able to answer questions immediately and in relatively good English, and he showed me parts of the city tourists would normally never see. He beats the St Petersburg policeman who drove me to the post office through red lights and at 100 km/hour because he was with me longer.
The other good points were the trips – the Trans-Siberian, the Trans-Mongolian and the cruise between Moscow and St Petersburg.
These shared the scenery which will forever define Russia for me (forests, rivers, settlements, towns, cities, ONION DOMES [yes, Cindy]) and the companionship of people –some doing their job and some also on tour, who I met and interacted with at various stages of intimacy.
If asked what I will remember about Russia, it is definitely the people – some who I will remember forever even though I only met them for a short time, some whose kindness I will use for a long time as an example and those travelling companions with whom I forged a bond over a short period of time (and it may continue, or not, but it will still exist in my memory).
China
The highlight here was in Xi’an, shared between the Terra Cotta warriors and spending half an hour chatting with a young Chinese girl and her (teacher) parents before watching the fountain show.
Good points were my two guides, Lulu and Eugene, who explained things and showed me how things work. Also the people I met while walking, especially those who live in the hutong near the Si He hotel, who were friendly and welcoming.
China will be defined as the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven, the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower. However, that is not modern China, but it does show where modern China has come from.
What will I remember about China – the people living in all hutongs, who were willing to share a moment, a drink or some food with a western stranger who will most likely never see them again. I will also remember to not be a pedestrian in China, if I can help it. And I can push and shove if it is the custom where I am (after all, can 1·5 billion Chinese be wrong?).
Mongolia
With only one day and a short stop at Ulan Bator, Mongolia impresses me with a few things.
The Mongolian border guard, who in leather skirt and jacket, high heels and nearly a Marg Simpson hairdo, commanded me to “look at me!” If she ever loses her job, there are many houses the world over who would employ her in that uniform with those imperious looks and compelling speech.
The scenery in Mongolia is like Australia – boring if you look but don’t see, compelling if you look and see. The desert with different surface features, the river valleys with horsemen working in them and all areas with fenced areas occupied by houses and/or yurts.
Would I return to any of these places?
China I would, because I would like to visit Robbie’s parents in their home town. There are also other places in the south I haven’t seen, and a river cruise is a must.
Mongolia – perhaps to experience life in Ulan Bator, but life in a yurt is close to what I have sometimes done myself and what my father did, so it’s not on the list.
Russia – to do the northern line (BAM) and to spend time in Siberia at different towns. In the west? Perhaps to visit and stay in small villages and experience the life there.
And so it was today.
I woke and dozed fitfully after getting to bed early (perhaps too early) but finally got up at 0600 and did some washing for today (pyjamas and yesterday’s clothes). After hanging them up to dry, I then showered (yes, really showered) and got ready for today. Then it was down to the restaurant for the buffet breakfast (for which they charge 500 py6) and making the most of it. After finishing breakfast I went back up, arranged things and finished my preparations to go out for the day.
The first order of business was to visit Lenin. After being so close so many times, I thought I should at least drop in. To walk breakfast off, I got out at the Metro station after the Kremlin and then walked north back to it. It was through an area I had not been in before, and it was different from the tourist areas.
One of the disappointing things in Russia has been the number of ex-servicemen, presumably from previous military encounters the USSR and Russia have been involved in, begging in the streets. Usually they are legless and move on skateboard-type mechanisms, but today they were (or appeared to be) sound of limb, but singing and begging outside a Metro station. They certainly gave the appearance of battle-hardened veterans, and I for one would not like to meet them at the end of a weapon, yet they looked like they had no support from the state. That is common to a lot of countries, but I had thought that perhaps Russia’s experience with socialism would have meant provision was made for these people.
A second disappointing thing is the number of elderly people begging, usually elderly women. Again I would have hoped that the state would have supported them, but it may be that the provision made was not used wisely when the USSR spilt up and people were given title to buildings and land they occupied.
Once I got up to Lenin’s tomb and found I was at the right day and the right time, I then asked and got told, rather brusquely (unusually so far in my experience, but as I found out, common just here) to go to the Alexander Gardens (in English). On the way there I found the information was partially correct – the line formed outside there to go to Lenin’s tomb. In the short line I was only waiting a minute or so before we moved off – but before we could get to the next obstacle, cameras, bags, mobile phones with camera functions all had to be deposited in a cloakroom – in my case at 40 py6 for the camera bag with the mobile. Then at the metal detectors (of course) I set it off. The officer asked me to take out what was in my pockets to check no cameras and the EPIRB really threw him. HE had no idea of it, had never seen one and didn’t understand my explanation of what it did. However, to his credit, as soon as he saw there was no camera, he let me straight through. Then we all had to walk a convoluted path to get to the entrance of the tomb. Once inside, again along a convoluted path, we were directed by young guards, most of whom I would have put at about 16. Finally I reached Lenin and an anticlimax – wax effigies look more real! After that it was another convoluted path to regain Red Square and then a short walk to regain my possessions.
On the way back to a Metro station I ran into three parties – one an elderly Russian couple who I offered to take a photo of for them in from of Lenin’s tomb, but he hadn’t switched the camera on; another a pair of ladies (one younger, one older, from California and Kansas) who were trying to find the entrance to the Kremlin (I was able to direct them); the last a gentleman from Florida (who sells communications gear to the mines from Perth) who was wondering about visiting Lenin and I was able to give him the right information on that (and I saw him set off in line only a few minutes later). Then I caught the Metro back to the station near the hotel.
I had determined that the only other thing I really wanted to do was visit the Space Museum (its title is not quite that, but that’s the easiest way to explain it). It’s just over the road from the hotel – BUT … it’s undergoing renovations now that the tourist season is over! All I could do was walk around the park.
Back at the hotel I thought perhaps I would try to do some Internet work, so I bought an hour. Once logged on I began to upload the photos from the train trip. WRONG! A fault, and so all the first day’s pictures didn’t get uploaded. I started on the second and … the session timed out, so I have no idea of how many, if any were uploaded. The only successful part was sending and receiving emails – which worked out at about AUD2 per email – the most expensive I have ever sent and received. I can only hope that the hotel in Turkey has email included.
I went for a wander outside and found, only five minutes walk away, that Scottish dining establishment’s local office. I had some, most likely my last for a long time, and then returned to the hotel. On the way out I held the door open for a line of females and they all giggled – I don’t think the word “chivalry” exists in Russia. The weather is overcast, had been raining and looked as if it was going to rain again. As the only things I wanted to otherwise do were closed, I decided it was perhaps a rest, or lay day (lazy day?).
The first thing though was to write up today and some reflections on Russia, China and Mongolia.
Reflections.
The thing to note is that reflections are what you see in the mirror – so my reflections are only on what I saw. That limits me to the areas I visited and the people I interacted with, and is coloured by my ways of thinking. Therefore they are not definitive, but simply one aspect.
Russia
Definitely the highlight for me was my day with Alexander, my guide in Murmansk. Not only did he settle me into Russian ways, but he was able to answer questions immediately and in relatively good English, and he showed me parts of the city tourists would normally never see. He beats the St Petersburg policeman who drove me to the post office through red lights and at 100 km/hour because he was with me longer.
The other good points were the trips – the Trans-Siberian, the Trans-Mongolian and the cruise between Moscow and St Petersburg.
These shared the scenery which will forever define Russia for me (forests, rivers, settlements, towns, cities, ONION DOMES [yes, Cindy]) and the companionship of people –some doing their job and some also on tour, who I met and interacted with at various stages of intimacy.
If asked what I will remember about Russia, it is definitely the people – some who I will remember forever even though I only met them for a short time, some whose kindness I will use for a long time as an example and those travelling companions with whom I forged a bond over a short period of time (and it may continue, or not, but it will still exist in my memory).
China
The highlight here was in Xi’an, shared between the Terra Cotta warriors and spending half an hour chatting with a young Chinese girl and her (teacher) parents before watching the fountain show.
Good points were my two guides, Lulu and Eugene, who explained things and showed me how things work. Also the people I met while walking, especially those who live in the hutong near the Si He hotel, who were friendly and welcoming.
China will be defined as the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven, the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower. However, that is not modern China, but it does show where modern China has come from.
What will I remember about China – the people living in all hutongs, who were willing to share a moment, a drink or some food with a western stranger who will most likely never see them again. I will also remember to not be a pedestrian in China, if I can help it. And I can push and shove if it is the custom where I am (after all, can 1·5 billion Chinese be wrong?).
Mongolia
With only one day and a short stop at Ulan Bator, Mongolia impresses me with a few things.
The Mongolian border guard, who in leather skirt and jacket, high heels and nearly a Marg Simpson hairdo, commanded me to “look at me!” If she ever loses her job, there are many houses the world over who would employ her in that uniform with those imperious looks and compelling speech.
The scenery in Mongolia is like Australia – boring if you look but don’t see, compelling if you look and see. The desert with different surface features, the river valleys with horsemen working in them and all areas with fenced areas occupied by houses and/or yurts.
Would I return to any of these places?
China I would, because I would like to visit Robbie’s parents in their home town. There are also other places in the south I haven’t seen, and a river cruise is a must.
Mongolia – perhaps to experience life in Ulan Bator, but life in a yurt is close to what I have sometimes done myself and what my father did, so it’s not on the list.
Russia – to do the northern line (BAM) and to spend time in Siberia at different towns. In the west? Perhaps to visit and stay in small villages and experience the life there.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
13 October
I didn’t sleep well during the night, perhaps because I got to sleep too early or in anticipation that the second-longest rail journey I could undertake was about to finish. I started waking from 0030 onwards and just dozing lightly in between.
Eventually dawn came and I got up at about 0730 to have a trickle and found … warm water! Even though it was still just a trickle, at last I could get it all over me (with a bit of finagling). I had the most thorough trickle I have had on the train and then dried off (with just two microfibre washers). I dressed (although by now the clothes were getting a little ripe, but I hoped that this afternoon would do something about that) in my normal gear, forsaking the shoes for my RM Williams boots and the trakkie pants for trousers.
Then, because I had been drinking black tea with sugar (and this hopefully will be the last time I have to do that, though I may have to do so in New Zealand), I decided an experiment was in order. Without any medication, I took my sugar level (5·8) and had my cup of tea with two sugar cubes in it. Over the next progressive half hours, my levels were (starting at 6·0 immediately after) 7·9, 7·8, 7·3. I felt happy that I had not gone over my normal levels, but didn’t want to know at the time (before) as that was the only way I was going to get water into me.
I then had breakfast, finishing the loaf of bread with Vegemite and consigning the Wendy’s knife, fork and spoon to the rubbish after six months of intermittent use. Next time I will take the Wiltshire picnic kit with me (but remember to pack them in the suitcase).
Some interesting sights, not that I was able to photograph, included at 305 (north) a ruined church with a most colourful cemetery, at 266 (north) a cross by itself, at 258 (north) a cross by itself which seemed to indicate a young child had been hit by a train there and at 257 (south) a cemetery.
We were due to stop at Vladimir not too long after 1000, so I had a chat with Alan and Julie, then with Dan and Christopher. We stopped a little early at about 1015 and I got my last drink of coke, then headed back to the train. Everyone else thought it was warm outside but I thought it was cool. I chatted with Julie and Alan, and just before the train left, Christopher came along to check I actually was on board (although I always indicate to the cabin attendants so they know I’m on).
From this point on there were a few interesting things to look at and the cabin attendants were all very busy preparing for our arrival in Moscow. At first it looked as though we would be early, but the train slowed down considerably once in the suburbs. I had already packed up, to make sure I didn’t leave anything, and then put the linen out to be collected.
At this stage all of us were having mixed feelings, glad the journey was finishing but sad in a way to cease the style of life we had become accustomed to and the people who had become so important in our lives. I got email addresses from Alan and Julie and gave mine to Dan. I hoped to be able to email people and post blogs and photos today, but later in the day my plans for that became unstuck.
We arrived in Moscow on time, got off (and I think the train staff unloaded more than we did) and were all settled on the platform. I said goodbye to the Korean I had met (I should have got an email address) and waited for my driver. He turned up, the same one who had dropped me many days before when I had boarded the Trans-Siberian with a lot of anticipation and little experience. He quickly took my case, I said goodbye to all and we were off. Within a short time (for Moscow traffic) we were at the Cosmos Hotel and I was booking in (but have to be ready before 1000 on Wednesday to go to the airport). I got my room (2163) and went up, settled in and did washing. With that (hopefully) drying, I set out to get a late lunch/early tea, which I did at the Macca’s just up from where I had stayed last time (four subway stations along on the Orange line). I found my way back easily enough and called in at the Business Centre to get Internet access. However, at around AUD40 for enough time to upload all I needed to and to check my mail, I declined. Now I am hoping that I can access the Internet in Turkey for either the included price or for a reasonable amount.
I went up, had a shower and a beard trim, then wrote up this blog, processed the photos and then went to bed. I will try to have an early breakfast and pop into Red Square, have a final look around and perhaps visit Lenin, then do a few visits before being back at my hotel in time to do the last washing before I leave Russia.
Eventually dawn came and I got up at about 0730 to have a trickle and found … warm water! Even though it was still just a trickle, at last I could get it all over me (with a bit of finagling). I had the most thorough trickle I have had on the train and then dried off (with just two microfibre washers). I dressed (although by now the clothes were getting a little ripe, but I hoped that this afternoon would do something about that) in my normal gear, forsaking the shoes for my RM Williams boots and the trakkie pants for trousers.
Then, because I had been drinking black tea with sugar (and this hopefully will be the last time I have to do that, though I may have to do so in New Zealand), I decided an experiment was in order. Without any medication, I took my sugar level (5·8) and had my cup of tea with two sugar cubes in it. Over the next progressive half hours, my levels were (starting at 6·0 immediately after) 7·9, 7·8, 7·3. I felt happy that I had not gone over my normal levels, but didn’t want to know at the time (before) as that was the only way I was going to get water into me.
I then had breakfast, finishing the loaf of bread with Vegemite and consigning the Wendy’s knife, fork and spoon to the rubbish after six months of intermittent use. Next time I will take the Wiltshire picnic kit with me (but remember to pack them in the suitcase).
Some interesting sights, not that I was able to photograph, included at 305 (north) a ruined church with a most colourful cemetery, at 266 (north) a cross by itself, at 258 (north) a cross by itself which seemed to indicate a young child had been hit by a train there and at 257 (south) a cemetery.
We were due to stop at Vladimir not too long after 1000, so I had a chat with Alan and Julie, then with Dan and Christopher. We stopped a little early at about 1015 and I got my last drink of coke, then headed back to the train. Everyone else thought it was warm outside but I thought it was cool. I chatted with Julie and Alan, and just before the train left, Christopher came along to check I actually was on board (although I always indicate to the cabin attendants so they know I’m on).
From this point on there were a few interesting things to look at and the cabin attendants were all very busy preparing for our arrival in Moscow. At first it looked as though we would be early, but the train slowed down considerably once in the suburbs. I had already packed up, to make sure I didn’t leave anything, and then put the linen out to be collected.
At this stage all of us were having mixed feelings, glad the journey was finishing but sad in a way to cease the style of life we had become accustomed to and the people who had become so important in our lives. I got email addresses from Alan and Julie and gave mine to Dan. I hoped to be able to email people and post blogs and photos today, but later in the day my plans for that became unstuck.
We arrived in Moscow on time, got off (and I think the train staff unloaded more than we did) and were all settled on the platform. I said goodbye to the Korean I had met (I should have got an email address) and waited for my driver. He turned up, the same one who had dropped me many days before when I had boarded the Trans-Siberian with a lot of anticipation and little experience. He quickly took my case, I said goodbye to all and we were off. Within a short time (for Moscow traffic) we were at the Cosmos Hotel and I was booking in (but have to be ready before 1000 on Wednesday to go to the airport). I got my room (2163) and went up, settled in and did washing. With that (hopefully) drying, I set out to get a late lunch/early tea, which I did at the Macca’s just up from where I had stayed last time (four subway stations along on the Orange line). I found my way back easily enough and called in at the Business Centre to get Internet access. However, at around AUD40 for enough time to upload all I needed to and to check my mail, I declined. Now I am hoping that I can access the Internet in Turkey for either the included price or for a reasonable amount.
I went up, had a shower and a beard trim, then wrote up this blog, processed the photos and then went to bed. I will try to have an early breakfast and pop into Red Square, have a final look around and perhaps visit Lenin, then do a few visits before being back at my hotel in time to do the last washing before I leave Russia.
12 October
Today I woke about 0530 Moscow time with a weak light trickling in through the window. About 0620 I got up and found Dan and the (older) carriage attendant already up. I had a cup of coke and then a cup of tea, with biscuits, for an early breakfast. We stop very soon for about twenty minutes, so I’ll see about something more substantial then.
Outside the sun is really shining in for dawn. There is a light dusting of snow near the tracks, but in the treed areas, which are warmer, there is none. I had my morning trickle and got dressed and, just a few minutes late, we arrived in Tumen.
At this platform the weather was a little chilly (if it continues to get colder, I’ll have to start putting my jacket on) there was only one small kiosk open. Nothing attracted me, so I just looked around. Christopher was trying to get something but not having much luck.
As I wandered back along the platform, the whistle blew and the brakes released, and all the carriage attendants leapt inside. I called out to the others to hurry and went into the nearest carriage. When I got back to mine (Carriage 10, Berth 7), I saw the steps up and the attendant looking out urgently. A few minutes later we took off and I hope Christopher and Dan made it. They did!
I went back to reading, but finished about 0845. Outside the land was covered in snow to varying depths, between a light dusting through to small piles in certain places.
Our next stop is scheduled to be Sverdlovsk around 1155. I must remember to ring Fran about 1330.
Eventually all of us (Alan, Julie, Dan and Christopher) were chatting in the corridor. We went through safety of cars, size of cars, price of fuels, CB radio, computer and Internet games and finally camera settings and techniques. I missed out on a photo of massed tanks north of the line. My power board is currently charging the laptop, the battery charger, Christopher’s iPod and Dan’s mp3 player. It’s interesting how many things I can do with it and how well prepared I seem compared to some fellow travellers.
Tushin, whose occupation in part seems to be money changing, is getting off at the next stop. I wonder if he will return on the next train the other way and ply his trade there? It’s currently about half an hour to our next stop, and all of us are wondering whether we will be able to get a variety of food there and if it will fill our needs for lunch. It seems as though the platform vendors know there are fewer people on the train heading into Moscow and so only the kiosks are open (at higher prices, as there is no competition).
We pulled into Sverdlovsk a little after noon and it was obviously a lot colder there. I put my jacket on and saw a few flakes of snow (not enough, by my standards, to say it was snowing) falling as I got out. I got some coke and a loaf of sliced bread (140 py6) but declined a tube of Pringles at 180 py6 (about AUD7). Tushin said goodbye and headed off and we all boarded the train again. We had left before 1230 and I immediately had some bread with Vegemite – not the best, but acceptable under the circumstances. As we headed off the sky outside became greyer and it was nice being in the carriage at 24°C rather than outside. If I ever did this trip again, I would go Beijing to Moscow, stopping off in Ulan Bator for a few days, perhaps up to a week (to catch the same train, 3, again) and then go to the east coast via the BAM line and travel to Vladivostok and return to Moscow that way.
Not too long after, a young Korean (south) came along, saw me and asked whether there was a dining car on. I told him there was, but that the quality of the food was not great but the prices were. He apparently is not too well-off and had worked in Perth as a slaughterman recently. I gave him some slices of bread surplus to my requirements and he was very grateful. After that I listened to my iPod for a time before Alan came along and we talked further about cameras, then took some pictures of things outside. It wasn’t too long before Permi came up at 1720 (early) and we disembarked, but it was really cold outside. I didn’t see anything that enticed me to spend, but I did see a car being led by a woman with a red flag (I didn’t realise the “Red Flag Act” hadn’t yet been repealed in Russia). I also saw the Korean out in shorts and thongs, but I think after this he will be in longs and shoes or boots.
I wasn’t off too long and was followed soon after by Dan and Christopher, who had run to the main street to do some shopping. The attendant opened our cabins, we prepared and had our meals and soon it was settling down for the night.
Outside the sun is really shining in for dawn. There is a light dusting of snow near the tracks, but in the treed areas, which are warmer, there is none. I had my morning trickle and got dressed and, just a few minutes late, we arrived in Tumen.
At this platform the weather was a little chilly (if it continues to get colder, I’ll have to start putting my jacket on) there was only one small kiosk open. Nothing attracted me, so I just looked around. Christopher was trying to get something but not having much luck.
As I wandered back along the platform, the whistle blew and the brakes released, and all the carriage attendants leapt inside. I called out to the others to hurry and went into the nearest carriage. When I got back to mine (Carriage 10, Berth 7), I saw the steps up and the attendant looking out urgently. A few minutes later we took off and I hope Christopher and Dan made it. They did!
I went back to reading, but finished about 0845. Outside the land was covered in snow to varying depths, between a light dusting through to small piles in certain places.
Our next stop is scheduled to be Sverdlovsk around 1155. I must remember to ring Fran about 1330.
Eventually all of us (Alan, Julie, Dan and Christopher) were chatting in the corridor. We went through safety of cars, size of cars, price of fuels, CB radio, computer and Internet games and finally camera settings and techniques. I missed out on a photo of massed tanks north of the line. My power board is currently charging the laptop, the battery charger, Christopher’s iPod and Dan’s mp3 player. It’s interesting how many things I can do with it and how well prepared I seem compared to some fellow travellers.
Tushin, whose occupation in part seems to be money changing, is getting off at the next stop. I wonder if he will return on the next train the other way and ply his trade there? It’s currently about half an hour to our next stop, and all of us are wondering whether we will be able to get a variety of food there and if it will fill our needs for lunch. It seems as though the platform vendors know there are fewer people on the train heading into Moscow and so only the kiosks are open (at higher prices, as there is no competition).
We pulled into Sverdlovsk a little after noon and it was obviously a lot colder there. I put my jacket on and saw a few flakes of snow (not enough, by my standards, to say it was snowing) falling as I got out. I got some coke and a loaf of sliced bread (140 py6) but declined a tube of Pringles at 180 py6 (about AUD7). Tushin said goodbye and headed off and we all boarded the train again. We had left before 1230 and I immediately had some bread with Vegemite – not the best, but acceptable under the circumstances. As we headed off the sky outside became greyer and it was nice being in the carriage at 24°C rather than outside. If I ever did this trip again, I would go Beijing to Moscow, stopping off in Ulan Bator for a few days, perhaps up to a week (to catch the same train, 3, again) and then go to the east coast via the BAM line and travel to Vladivostok and return to Moscow that way.
Not too long after, a young Korean (south) came along, saw me and asked whether there was a dining car on. I told him there was, but that the quality of the food was not great but the prices were. He apparently is not too well-off and had worked in Perth as a slaughterman recently. I gave him some slices of bread surplus to my requirements and he was very grateful. After that I listened to my iPod for a time before Alan came along and we talked further about cameras, then took some pictures of things outside. It wasn’t too long before Permi came up at 1720 (early) and we disembarked, but it was really cold outside. I didn’t see anything that enticed me to spend, but I did see a car being led by a woman with a red flag (I didn’t realise the “Red Flag Act” hadn’t yet been repealed in Russia). I also saw the Korean out in shorts and thongs, but I think after this he will be in longs and shoes or boots.
I wasn’t off too long and was followed soon after by Dan and Christopher, who had run to the main street to do some shopping. The attendant opened our cabins, we prepared and had our meals and soon it was settling down for the night.
11 October
I woke briefly in the night at Ilanskaya but went straight back to sleep. Then I woke at dawn, about 0900 local time (but 1000 Beijing time, 0400 Moscow time) and rolled over for a few minutes before getting up, having a cup of tea and teddy bear biscuit (only four left, but still one packet of TimTams – I may save them for Turkey) with a piece of bread (and Vegemite). Unfortunately my plastic knife I got from an American motel has now snapped, so when I get some out, I end up with Vegemite over my fingers. However I may have converted Christopher to Vegemite, as after a taste on Thursday, he asked for some on Friday and may now have some each day (but he’s not up as I write this, so I don’t know about today).
After a morning trickle, and using a microfine facewasher as a towel, I went down and said hello to and Julie and we talked about what to see in Australia. I ran through a four week (five if including Tasmania) itinerary of Indian-Pacific from Sydney, then car from Perth, with perhaps a side excursion to Tasmania, via the coast (and Kalgoorlie).
After that the day went with looking out the window and taking the odd photo and movie, together with talking with Christopher and reading a book.
At 1555 (Moscow time, which I will use hereafter until I get to Turkey), we pulled into Novosibirsk. In some ways it was the most interesting part of the day (apart from the saga of “windows down, windows up” which we are playing with the car attendants and the English couple conniving to get their window washed!).
As we pulled into the suburbs, there was a couple by the tracks – the male was waving at the train while the young lady was, … ahem, adjusting her clothing. The mind boggles, but until our train came along the place was private as the suburban trains weren’t running out that far.
While at the station, Dan and Christopher decided to do some exploring away from the train and the younger attendant signalled to me that he needed the other two – except I didn’t know where they were. I looked out and finally saw Christopher’s cap and yelled out, then they ran along and just got on as we left.
We have now had our little bit of adventure. For me it was buying a sausage roll (hot dog in flaky pastry, at 40 py6) and a hamburger (which I ate cold, at 55 py6). Now it is just a matter of showing Alan and Julie pictures of Australia and perhaps a few episodes of Futurama with the boys and then I will be off to bed.
After a morning trickle, and using a microfine facewasher as a towel, I went down and said hello to and Julie and we talked about what to see in Australia. I ran through a four week (five if including Tasmania) itinerary of Indian-Pacific from Sydney, then car from Perth, with perhaps a side excursion to Tasmania, via the coast (and Kalgoorlie).
After that the day went with looking out the window and taking the odd photo and movie, together with talking with Christopher and reading a book.
At 1555 (Moscow time, which I will use hereafter until I get to Turkey), we pulled into Novosibirsk. In some ways it was the most interesting part of the day (apart from the saga of “windows down, windows up” which we are playing with the car attendants and the English couple conniving to get their window washed!).
As we pulled into the suburbs, there was a couple by the tracks – the male was waving at the train while the young lady was, … ahem, adjusting her clothing. The mind boggles, but until our train came along the place was private as the suburban trains weren’t running out that far.
While at the station, Dan and Christopher decided to do some exploring away from the train and the younger attendant signalled to me that he needed the other two – except I didn’t know where they were. I looked out and finally saw Christopher’s cap and yelled out, then they ran along and just got on as we left.
We have now had our little bit of adventure. For me it was buying a sausage roll (hot dog in flaky pastry, at 40 py6) and a hamburger (which I ate cold, at 55 py6). Now it is just a matter of showing Alan and Julie pictures of Australia and perhaps a few episodes of Futurama with the boys and then I will be off to bed.
10 October
Woke at 0700 with the sun through the window. Decided I could wait a little longer so got up about 0730, had a trickle (shower with a little water, just enough to wet a washing mitt but not me) and then dressed for the day. Outside the windows it was the odd fall of snow.
I started the day off with a cup of tea and chocolate teddy bear, accompanied by another TimTam. The Chinese staff certainly are aggressive in not accepting the offer of any chocolate biscuits. When we came near Lake Baikal, I woke Christopher so he would be ready to see it. The peaks nearby were all snow-capped. After that it was a matter of looking out the windows, chatting with the others (Dan, Christopher and Tom here, the English couple from the other first class carriage and a few others walking by) and taking photos. Every so often a rather drunk Russian would wander by, offer a few incomprehensible words and then kiss me on the forehead.
I wandered a few carriages down and caught up with Christopher and the Russian woman who could speak English. She lives in Mongolia, is married to a New Zealander and they run a milk/juice packing business in Mongolia. She is travelling with her mother, who is returning home to Urkutsk. I invited her up to see some photos of Australia before they get off the train.
The rest of the morning went similarly, and she popped down about noon Beijing time. I showed her the photos of Australia (some areas very like Mongolia), gave her a kangaroo pin and my email contact. She gave me her email address, but of course there is nothing I can do until I reach an Internet connection.
I had a chat with Tom (he has my contact details) and then he left the train at Urkutsk, as did Svetlana (with her mother).
The afternoon went slowly, with sightseeing through the windows and talks with Dan, Christopher, Alan and Julie, now the only English speakers (as far as I know) on the train. During the afternoon I saw many of the birch trees, which had had green or yellow leaves when I passed them on the Trans-Siberian now with no leaves. It showed how quickly autumn had arrived.
Towards dusk there were a lot of sights outside, including children returning home from school, mothers with young children waiting (presumably for husbands returning from work) and a few teams of people doing sports training.
After dusk and a stop at Zima, Christopher, Dan and I watched some episodes of Futurama (but couldn’t watch more than three as the power was off and I was losing charge in the battery too quickly. After that it was change and into bed and I was very soon asleep, hoping for the longest sleep so far on the return journey.
I started the day off with a cup of tea and chocolate teddy bear, accompanied by another TimTam. The Chinese staff certainly are aggressive in not accepting the offer of any chocolate biscuits. When we came near Lake Baikal, I woke Christopher so he would be ready to see it. The peaks nearby were all snow-capped. After that it was a matter of looking out the windows, chatting with the others (Dan, Christopher and Tom here, the English couple from the other first class carriage and a few others walking by) and taking photos. Every so often a rather drunk Russian would wander by, offer a few incomprehensible words and then kiss me on the forehead.
I wandered a few carriages down and caught up with Christopher and the Russian woman who could speak English. She lives in Mongolia, is married to a New Zealander and they run a milk/juice packing business in Mongolia. She is travelling with her mother, who is returning home to Urkutsk. I invited her up to see some photos of Australia before they get off the train.
The rest of the morning went similarly, and she popped down about noon Beijing time. I showed her the photos of Australia (some areas very like Mongolia), gave her a kangaroo pin and my email contact. She gave me her email address, but of course there is nothing I can do until I reach an Internet connection.
I had a chat with Tom (he has my contact details) and then he left the train at Urkutsk, as did Svetlana (with her mother).
The afternoon went slowly, with sightseeing through the windows and talks with Dan, Christopher, Alan and Julie, now the only English speakers (as far as I know) on the train. During the afternoon I saw many of the birch trees, which had had green or yellow leaves when I passed them on the Trans-Siberian now with no leaves. It showed how quickly autumn had arrived.
Towards dusk there were a lot of sights outside, including children returning home from school, mothers with young children waiting (presumably for husbands returning from work) and a few teams of people doing sports training.
After dusk and a stop at Zima, Christopher, Dan and I watched some episodes of Futurama (but couldn’t watch more than three as the power was off and I was losing charge in the battery too quickly. After that it was change and into bed and I was very soon asleep, hoping for the longest sleep so far on the return journey.
9 October
Ah, this is the life! I woke to an overcast dawn at about 0700, looked around and went back to sleep.
At 0800 I finally got up and had a look at what was outside. The scenery was very familiar to me, similar to desert country in parts of Australia – flat to undulating, sandy to rocky, lightly grassed through to medium spread of tussocks with occasional washaways and lakes. Life included the odd worker, cattle, goats, at least one camel (yes, I did get a picture of it – one hump or two? Two!). Yurts were visible, some close to the tracks, some in the distance. There were roads (dirt of course) and the odd car on them. Also, we were now being pulled by two diesel electric locomotives (I think – I’ll check in Ulan Bator) as there are no overhead power lines (so fewer poles in the photographs).
I had a shower (well, a wash with a mitt and a dry-down with a flannel – there is truth in advertising as the sign in the door has a showerhead with three streams and only droplets coming out) or more correctly a trickle, then dressed. After a cup of tea and some biscuits, I felt ready to face the day looking over the Gobi Desert.
At one stage I had a bit of a panic as the power went off, just as I was charging some batteries, but after a time it went back on (thankfully, because otherwise I can’t charge the camera batteries or the computer). After a chat with Christopher and Tom, I went down to the dining car – now a Mongolian restaurant – and was soon chatting to a couple from England and another couple from Boston. We swapped travel notes and generally chatted for a time, until I went back to my lonely writer’s garret (Cabin IV, Carriage 10) and wrote up yesterday and part of today and downloaded pictures from last night and some from today. After naming them (and borrowing a picture from Christopher) I got more pictures of the train, snow-covered mountains and the countryside. If anyone describes the scenery as boring or monotonous, they just haven’t been looking!
After a while I ended up talking to a couple from Luton (England) who had a corrupted memory card in the husband’s camera. I loaned them a card and gave my address to post it back to after they get home and transfer all the pictures to their computer.
At this stage we were about fifty kilometres out of Ulan Bator so I changed batteries in the camera and got ready to leave the train. We came in on schedule and, although it looked cool, it was quite comfortable outside just in shirtsleeves (on the train I am in tracksuit pants, train slippers (compliments of the Xi’an to Beijing train) and shirt, but once I get off I had shoes and socks on – in addition to the others, not just those. I got a bottle of coke (two litre size) at a price dearer that Beijing but cheaper than buying it on the train. Our free meal tickets seem to have dried up, so I looked for bread, but that was not available on the platform and I didn’t want to stray too far.
Then, too soon, it was back on the train and off. Here, Tushin (a Mongolian) introduced himself and then went off to Carriage 15, with threats to join him and drink Mongolian beer. Then all four of us we spoken to by a Russian fellow, who couldn’t understand anything we said (but that worked both ways) but had evidently had a skinful recently. He eventually wandered off, to return a few minutes later even more under the weather. After that we all retreated to our little havens and did our things – Dan and Christopher to catch up on sleep, Tom to catch up on “War and Peace” and me to write a little. The train is not so steady and so writing in pen is not an option, and even typing can be hit and miss as I attempt to hit the correct keys but miss them and hit the wrong ones.
The scenery outside went from suburbs to country, with small settlements along the way. Often there was a mixture of modern housing, yurts and small older houses. In a lot of places, they were surrounded by fences enclosing areas from a suburban block size (say one eighth of a hectare) up to paddock size (say four hectares). Some, with yurts, had up to four vehicles there as well, so living in a yurt does not necessarily signal poverty or subsistence living.
The general countryside changed from desert (the Gobi desert) in the south, which we saw while waking and had travelled through during the night, to river valleys in the north, which is what we travelled through until sunset.
At about 2050 we stopped at Suhe-Bator for Mongolian Customs and Passport control, having been given the paperwork earlier. We finally left at 2205 and were given our forms to fill out for Russia, which should occupy some time from about 2238 (1738 Moscow time, which is what the train will then be travelling on).
We arrived at Naushki at around 2230 and there we stayed until 0305 the next morning. Here the Mongolian restaurant car was changed for a Russian one.
At 0800 I finally got up and had a look at what was outside. The scenery was very familiar to me, similar to desert country in parts of Australia – flat to undulating, sandy to rocky, lightly grassed through to medium spread of tussocks with occasional washaways and lakes. Life included the odd worker, cattle, goats, at least one camel (yes, I did get a picture of it – one hump or two? Two!). Yurts were visible, some close to the tracks, some in the distance. There were roads (dirt of course) and the odd car on them. Also, we were now being pulled by two diesel electric locomotives (I think – I’ll check in Ulan Bator) as there are no overhead power lines (so fewer poles in the photographs).
I had a shower (well, a wash with a mitt and a dry-down with a flannel – there is truth in advertising as the sign in the door has a showerhead with three streams and only droplets coming out) or more correctly a trickle, then dressed. After a cup of tea and some biscuits, I felt ready to face the day looking over the Gobi Desert.
At one stage I had a bit of a panic as the power went off, just as I was charging some batteries, but after a time it went back on (thankfully, because otherwise I can’t charge the camera batteries or the computer). After a chat with Christopher and Tom, I went down to the dining car – now a Mongolian restaurant – and was soon chatting to a couple from England and another couple from Boston. We swapped travel notes and generally chatted for a time, until I went back to my lonely writer’s garret (Cabin IV, Carriage 10) and wrote up yesterday and part of today and downloaded pictures from last night and some from today. After naming them (and borrowing a picture from Christopher) I got more pictures of the train, snow-covered mountains and the countryside. If anyone describes the scenery as boring or monotonous, they just haven’t been looking!
After a while I ended up talking to a couple from Luton (England) who had a corrupted memory card in the husband’s camera. I loaned them a card and gave my address to post it back to after they get home and transfer all the pictures to their computer.
At this stage we were about fifty kilometres out of Ulan Bator so I changed batteries in the camera and got ready to leave the train. We came in on schedule and, although it looked cool, it was quite comfortable outside just in shirtsleeves (on the train I am in tracksuit pants, train slippers (compliments of the Xi’an to Beijing train) and shirt, but once I get off I had shoes and socks on – in addition to the others, not just those. I got a bottle of coke (two litre size) at a price dearer that Beijing but cheaper than buying it on the train. Our free meal tickets seem to have dried up, so I looked for bread, but that was not available on the platform and I didn’t want to stray too far.
Then, too soon, it was back on the train and off. Here, Tushin (a Mongolian) introduced himself and then went off to Carriage 15, with threats to join him and drink Mongolian beer. Then all four of us we spoken to by a Russian fellow, who couldn’t understand anything we said (but that worked both ways) but had evidently had a skinful recently. He eventually wandered off, to return a few minutes later even more under the weather. After that we all retreated to our little havens and did our things – Dan and Christopher to catch up on sleep, Tom to catch up on “War and Peace” and me to write a little. The train is not so steady and so writing in pen is not an option, and even typing can be hit and miss as I attempt to hit the correct keys but miss them and hit the wrong ones.
The scenery outside went from suburbs to country, with small settlements along the way. Often there was a mixture of modern housing, yurts and small older houses. In a lot of places, they were surrounded by fences enclosing areas from a suburban block size (say one eighth of a hectare) up to paddock size (say four hectares). Some, with yurts, had up to four vehicles there as well, so living in a yurt does not necessarily signal poverty or subsistence living.
The general countryside changed from desert (the Gobi desert) in the south, which we saw while waking and had travelled through during the night, to river valleys in the north, which is what we travelled through until sunset.
At about 2050 we stopped at Suhe-Bator for Mongolian Customs and Passport control, having been given the paperwork earlier. We finally left at 2205 and were given our forms to fill out for Russia, which should occupy some time from about 2238 (1738 Moscow time, which is what the train will then be travelling on).
We arrived at Naushki at around 2230 and there we stayed until 0305 the next morning. Here the Mongolian restaurant car was changed for a Russian one.
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