After being awake at the same time, I was finally up at 0615. I did some Internet work, checking emails and seeing how many hits I had on Flickr (but still not knowing how many (if any) read my blog) and after the usual preparation, I was down to breakfast 0655. There were still some down before me.
After a leisurely breakfast and a walk around, I was out at 0815 for the bus, but the bus didn’t leave until 0832 as two passengers (and I won’t say who you were, Lyn and Sue) were late. Not too long after we left, we stopped to photograph terraces from below and in a different light. Then we drove until we stopped for morning tea (in this case, morning yoghurt, honey and chick peas). The scenery changed from the very fertile areas with valleys in between rolling hills to plains with mountains in the background, and then we started climbing the mountains.
We stopped for lunch at a roadhouse, which was supposed to have fast food, but today … only slow food. Sue, Lyn and I walked along the road and bought some apples at a stand on the roadside, before returning to the bus. The mother and daughter at the stand were very nice, but although we had few words in common, we were able to communicate.
The drive to Konya in the afternoon saw the land becoming flatter but higher. Along the was we saw a huge line of trucks waiting to be weighed at a sugar beet depot (more than a kilometre) by 1525 we arrived at our hotel for the night. After finding our rooms and dumping things, we headed over the road (yes, just over the road) to the Whirling Dervishes monastery. After a tour around there, and about an hour, some of us walked the bazaar streets of the town. I did a bit with one couple from England and then more with Sue. At the end of that, we tried to find a bank where Euros could be withdrawn, and fond three ATMs, but none which obviously had Euros. We did some supermarket shopping, and were back at the hotel by 1830 to finalise Optional Tours and pay for them. While I was waiting, I looked at some previous pictures and found I had an audience.
After the payments were finished, I had tea. During tea, I showed two women from Manchester shots of Australia and where we had been recently.
After all that I retired to my room to process today’s photos and thought I would have to go downstairs to upload them, but found the signal in my room was now strong enough to access the Internet, so I uploaded them, wrote my blog, posted that and went down to see others before going to bed.
Unfortunately, perhaps as doing nothing is getting to me, I dozed on the bus today. Perhaps I need to do some driving, but I don’t think the driver (Biral) would let me. No walking and little time out would have made me more sleepy too.
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Thursday, October 23, 2008
23 October
The day followed the now obligatory pattern of up at 0600, packing and preparing, being down for breakfast at 0700 (with the luggage out), returning to pack the backpack and being ready to leave the hotel by 0800.
We left Kusadasi and set off to go to the village of Geyre and visit the ancient site of Aphrodisias. Our first sight for the day was not archaeological but social, as many dogs in Turkey are community owned – and along one section of rural road the dogs come out to be fed at the same time by the same people each day (I wonder what happens if they go on holiday, shift or die). Along the way we passed through the provincial capital and saw camel sausages on sale – apparently the only place in Turkey where they are available, but there were certainly plenty of advertisements for them.
We dropped those who didn’t want to (or couldn’t) walk around the site at the restaurant where we were to have lunch. We drove by bus to the site of the Aphrodisias ruins and walked into them. We visited the public buildings (I must read about them when I get home as they all seem to be on a similar plan), temples converted to churches (over varying periods of time) and stadiums. This stadium was of a surprising size and its condition varied because of earthquakes. It included a pool which was very large and quite a good museum – but I couldn’t feed my habit as we didn’t have long enough. We returned from the site by tractor-towed carriages and arrived at the bus park, where we boarded to go back to the restaurant.
At the restaurant lunch was offered by samples on a trolley, orders taken by hand numbers and then delivered to the tables. I opted to walk around the village (a square route a few hundred metres along each side). One road was bare, but the second had houses and the third had a few houses and some trade. The fourth side was the main road. I managed to say hello to a few, had a drink and ice cream, got my hand shaken by a one-armed man and got a small child crying because I looked so unfamiliar.
By the time I got back to the restaurant it was nearly time to board the bus again and we then drove through Denizli and visited the site of Hierapolis, out past Pamukkale. Here there were not only the ruins but also terraces formed from the flow of high concentrations of calcium bicarbonate (leading to formations often seen in caves being on the hillside. After an introductory lecture to explain the history of the settlement and its physical layout, we had an hour and a half to wander around. While walking, I met Stewart and Helen from Brisbane (they were part of the rowdy tour group down from me last night, but they assured me they weren’t the noisy ones) and we discussed how you could tour different places overseas in the best way. We parted and I returned to the bus by a scout’s pace an just got back in time. Then we returned to the suburbs of Denizli to our hotel for the evening. It looked quite good, though I wasn’t using many of the facilities (it had WiFi in the lobby, but again I could access it from my room (but more slowly, even though more conveniently). After I had established that, I walked down the street with Monique and through the bazaar. This turned out to be far bigger than expected and included a hot water fountain, also covered in deposits. Before turning back I got a good photo of the sunset over the hills, then a shot of a young child with his mum. She got a kangaroo pin – I was going to say to give it to the biy when he grows up, bu the language barrier was too great. I did note that a man behind her kept on indicating she should be given money, but as good Australians we totally ignored it. It was then a gentle stroll back for a buffet tea at the hotel.
After I went to my room, processed today’s photos, while sending out emails. Then while the photos were being uploaded to Flickr, I wrote this blog and went to bed and to sleep.
We left Kusadasi and set off to go to the village of Geyre and visit the ancient site of Aphrodisias. Our first sight for the day was not archaeological but social, as many dogs in Turkey are community owned – and along one section of rural road the dogs come out to be fed at the same time by the same people each day (I wonder what happens if they go on holiday, shift or die). Along the way we passed through the provincial capital and saw camel sausages on sale – apparently the only place in Turkey where they are available, but there were certainly plenty of advertisements for them.
We dropped those who didn’t want to (or couldn’t) walk around the site at the restaurant where we were to have lunch. We drove by bus to the site of the Aphrodisias ruins and walked into them. We visited the public buildings (I must read about them when I get home as they all seem to be on a similar plan), temples converted to churches (over varying periods of time) and stadiums. This stadium was of a surprising size and its condition varied because of earthquakes. It included a pool which was very large and quite a good museum – but I couldn’t feed my habit as we didn’t have long enough. We returned from the site by tractor-towed carriages and arrived at the bus park, where we boarded to go back to the restaurant.
At the restaurant lunch was offered by samples on a trolley, orders taken by hand numbers and then delivered to the tables. I opted to walk around the village (a square route a few hundred metres along each side). One road was bare, but the second had houses and the third had a few houses and some trade. The fourth side was the main road. I managed to say hello to a few, had a drink and ice cream, got my hand shaken by a one-armed man and got a small child crying because I looked so unfamiliar.
By the time I got back to the restaurant it was nearly time to board the bus again and we then drove through Denizli and visited the site of Hierapolis, out past Pamukkale. Here there were not only the ruins but also terraces formed from the flow of high concentrations of calcium bicarbonate (leading to formations often seen in caves being on the hillside. After an introductory lecture to explain the history of the settlement and its physical layout, we had an hour and a half to wander around. While walking, I met Stewart and Helen from Brisbane (they were part of the rowdy tour group down from me last night, but they assured me they weren’t the noisy ones) and we discussed how you could tour different places overseas in the best way. We parted and I returned to the bus by a scout’s pace an just got back in time. Then we returned to the suburbs of Denizli to our hotel for the evening. It looked quite good, though I wasn’t using many of the facilities (it had WiFi in the lobby, but again I could access it from my room (but more slowly, even though more conveniently). After I had established that, I walked down the street with Monique and through the bazaar. This turned out to be far bigger than expected and included a hot water fountain, also covered in deposits. Before turning back I got a good photo of the sunset over the hills, then a shot of a young child with his mum. She got a kangaroo pin – I was going to say to give it to the biy when he grows up, bu the language barrier was too great. I did note that a man behind her kept on indicating she should be given money, but as good Australians we totally ignored it. It was then a gentle stroll back for a buffet tea at the hotel.
After I went to my room, processed today’s photos, while sending out emails. Then while the photos were being uploaded to Flickr, I wrote this blog and went to bed and to sleep.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
22 October
The alarm went off at 0600 and I reluctantly got up ten minutes later. The washing was not dry, so went onto the hangers in the wardrobe, so I could have my shower without making them wetter. By the time I finished my shower, the wake-up call came at 0630 – thank goodness for phones in the bathrooms!
I checked my email again, but the reason why I had dropped the connections was in force again, so the search for the pages hung. This is the first place this has happened, and I hope it is the last. I went down for breakfast and was again able to have my Vegemite on toast (but sliced stick, not slices). I ended up sitting with Carol and an English couple, so the story of my trips got rehashed again and I ended up having to get up to my room, clean my teeth and pack for the day fairly quickly. Not having too much sleep made me a little slower than I would have liked.
I got down to the bus, but a few didn’t make it – some came late (they are starting a habit which will annoy) and four decided not to come, so there were spare seats. I had the seat to myself.
We headed straight off to Ephesus (and I just realise that I’ve misspelt Ephesus on all the pictures).
We arrived about half an hour later and got a few dire warnings about what would happen if we got lost – head downwards and find the exit. Fortunately no-one did get lost, but it was both informative and visually interesting to walk through the ruins as they originally housed 350 000 in the second century A.D.
If you look at the photos for today you will find quite a number – although they also cover the visit to Mary’s house and the Temple of Artemis, as these were in the same town area.
The systems in place, the organization and the politics were not too far removed from those in place today in democracies.
We left Ephesus about 1230 and went into the modern town of Ephesus for lunch, but Robert, Sue and I walked around and had a look at a light industrial areas which had one building which had not been completed – yet looked very interesting. The bus left again at 1330 and we went up another mountain to see a chapel which was supposed to be the house where John (disciple) took Mary (mother of Jesus) after Jesus’ crucifixion. After a time there, we went back into the modern town again to see the ruins of the Temple of Diana (Artemis). This was interesting in a number of ways – the cost people paid for books and postcards, the state of the area, the use of the area and the number of children selling things while it was school time!
We left there and got back into Kusadasi by just before 1600. I took the option of getting off in the centre of town for three reasons – so I could explore a little more, so I could have tea in town and also to research a person for a friend from Derrinallum. I started by doing that, and the first place (in the Town Bazaar) directed me to a place in the Grand Bazaar which in turn directed me to a place in the Main Bazaar and finally I got directed to a store where the part-owner said the other part owner was his uncle, the person I was looking for, and he often worked on his farm in Ephesus. He then described that he had written the letters for his uncle to this friend and gave a few details, and showed me an old photo of his uncle in a group. I took a photo of that (and his email address) and then went on to look around, explore more of the town and then have some (early) tea before heading back to the hotel.
At the hotel I transferred the photos and started charging the batteries. Then I processed the photos out on the balcony (cooler, because I was warm from the day and walking around and up from town) and had a chat with Carol and Christine, then with a fellow from Adelaide (Port Adelaide) who was here with a different tour group. Then I went inside and chatted with another fellow on our tour until the laptop battery was nearly flat, so I had to go back to the room and plug it in.
The photos were being uploaded to Flickr and I heard a noisy group, which turned out to be the chap from Adelaide and others on the Fez Tour (all Australians) on the balcony of 103. I chatted with them a little, then went in, found I could now get GMail (but now not the Blog site), so sent some emails, processed photos for some others on the tour who want copies of some that I have taken) and wrote up my blog. Then, after a while, I went to bed and hoped I catch up on the sleep I lost last night.
I checked my email again, but the reason why I had dropped the connections was in force again, so the search for the pages hung. This is the first place this has happened, and I hope it is the last. I went down for breakfast and was again able to have my Vegemite on toast (but sliced stick, not slices). I ended up sitting with Carol and an English couple, so the story of my trips got rehashed again and I ended up having to get up to my room, clean my teeth and pack for the day fairly quickly. Not having too much sleep made me a little slower than I would have liked.
I got down to the bus, but a few didn’t make it – some came late (they are starting a habit which will annoy) and four decided not to come, so there were spare seats. I had the seat to myself.
We headed straight off to Ephesus (and I just realise that I’ve misspelt Ephesus on all the pictures).
We arrived about half an hour later and got a few dire warnings about what would happen if we got lost – head downwards and find the exit. Fortunately no-one did get lost, but it was both informative and visually interesting to walk through the ruins as they originally housed 350 000 in the second century A.D.
If you look at the photos for today you will find quite a number – although they also cover the visit to Mary’s house and the Temple of Artemis, as these were in the same town area.
The systems in place, the organization and the politics were not too far removed from those in place today in democracies.
We left Ephesus about 1230 and went into the modern town of Ephesus for lunch, but Robert, Sue and I walked around and had a look at a light industrial areas which had one building which had not been completed – yet looked very interesting. The bus left again at 1330 and we went up another mountain to see a chapel which was supposed to be the house where John (disciple) took Mary (mother of Jesus) after Jesus’ crucifixion. After a time there, we went back into the modern town again to see the ruins of the Temple of Diana (Artemis). This was interesting in a number of ways – the cost people paid for books and postcards, the state of the area, the use of the area and the number of children selling things while it was school time!
We left there and got back into Kusadasi by just before 1600. I took the option of getting off in the centre of town for three reasons – so I could explore a little more, so I could have tea in town and also to research a person for a friend from Derrinallum. I started by doing that, and the first place (in the Town Bazaar) directed me to a place in the Grand Bazaar which in turn directed me to a place in the Main Bazaar and finally I got directed to a store where the part-owner said the other part owner was his uncle, the person I was looking for, and he often worked on his farm in Ephesus. He then described that he had written the letters for his uncle to this friend and gave a few details, and showed me an old photo of his uncle in a group. I took a photo of that (and his email address) and then went on to look around, explore more of the town and then have some (early) tea before heading back to the hotel.
At the hotel I transferred the photos and started charging the batteries. Then I processed the photos out on the balcony (cooler, because I was warm from the day and walking around and up from town) and had a chat with Carol and Christine, then with a fellow from Adelaide (Port Adelaide) who was here with a different tour group. Then I went inside and chatted with another fellow on our tour until the laptop battery was nearly flat, so I had to go back to the room and plug it in.
The photos were being uploaded to Flickr and I heard a noisy group, which turned out to be the chap from Adelaide and others on the Fez Tour (all Australians) on the balcony of 103. I chatted with them a little, then went in, found I could now get GMail (but now not the Blog site), so sent some emails, processed photos for some others on the tour who want copies of some that I have taken) and wrote up my blog. Then, after a while, I went to bed and hoped I catch up on the sleep I lost last night.
21 October
As usual now, it was awake at 0600, prepare and then ready by 0630. After making sure my suitcase was packed and only the minimum was left to carry in the pack, I went over to the lobby and checked email and photo statistics.
Even though breakfast wasn’t due to start until 0700, I went in at 0645 and … it was being served already. I sat down and then wento voer – no toast again! But this time I asked and, within a few minutes,t here was toast (well, after a fashion, but still bread with a brown cooked coating) and I could have my Vegemite A couple from England sat opposite and we chatted during breakfast.
Soon it was time to return to my room, finish preparations and get ready to board the bus.
With the seat rotations I was one forward of the back seat on the driver’s side – but today I was with Lynn, as she and Sue swap occasionally. Then, on time, at 0800 we were off to Troy.
We arrived at Troy after being told that our expectations should not be too high. After an initial briefing we went into the archeological site and I was surprised at the amount of stonework visible. At each place we got a short talk on the position and relevance what we were seeing in the time line of Troy and of the world (at the time). Apart from the size of the site, one of the features was that the ses had moved so far away (due to alluvial deposits from the river) that the coastal town of strategic importance was now an inland town with no reason to be.
We left Troy and headed off again, towards Permagan (or Bermaga now) and we arrived there for lunch (after one of the now obligatory toilet stops along the way, where of course everyone has something to drink, ensuring another stop is necessary within a further two hours). At the lunch stop we could see the Roman temple and amphitheatre on the mountain above the town, so Sue, Lynn, Robert and I set off to try to find the best place to photograph it.
Due to distractions (schoolchildren love saying hello, but can’t say much more in English and so so conversation flags very quickly; small supermarkets are an attraction within themselves) we didn’t get too far down the road in the time available, but we did find a reasonably good spot – only to find that it was outside a military barracks and we weren’t allowed to photograph from there!
We got back to the bus and then headed off to Izmer. We stopped here to take photos of the old town centre (opposite) and the attractions on the coast. One interesting aspect here was tha the height of the buildings decreased down the side streets the further they were from the waterfront.
After that it was along to a toilet stop before we turned off at Ephasus for Kusadasi, our stop for tonight and our home for two nights.
The first order of business was to find out about Internet – yes, they had WiFi and I got the password – but when I went to connect, no problem with Mail but GMail and Flickr would not connect. Yet Flickr upload would!
I processed a few photos and then went down the street to survey the scene. It looked very different from the description given to me by a friend from Derrinallum – there is now no “main” street or pier, rather a plethora of both! I got some supplies for tomorrow and then went back and had tea. This I had with Carol and Christine, and after we went for a walk down the street and I explored a bit further and asked about a particular person, but got no reply.
After that it was back to the room, finish processing the photos and uploading them – and finding now all Internet connections worked! I sent out my email and replied to a few, started to write up my blog but then decided to go to sleep about 0030.
Even though breakfast wasn’t due to start until 0700, I went in at 0645 and … it was being served already. I sat down and then wento voer – no toast again! But this time I asked and, within a few minutes,t here was toast (well, after a fashion, but still bread with a brown cooked coating) and I could have my Vegemite A couple from England sat opposite and we chatted during breakfast.
Soon it was time to return to my room, finish preparations and get ready to board the bus.
With the seat rotations I was one forward of the back seat on the driver’s side – but today I was with Lynn, as she and Sue swap occasionally. Then, on time, at 0800 we were off to Troy.
We arrived at Troy after being told that our expectations should not be too high. After an initial briefing we went into the archeological site and I was surprised at the amount of stonework visible. At each place we got a short talk on the position and relevance what we were seeing in the time line of Troy and of the world (at the time). Apart from the size of the site, one of the features was that the ses had moved so far away (due to alluvial deposits from the river) that the coastal town of strategic importance was now an inland town with no reason to be.
We left Troy and headed off again, towards Permagan (or Bermaga now) and we arrived there for lunch (after one of the now obligatory toilet stops along the way, where of course everyone has something to drink, ensuring another stop is necessary within a further two hours). At the lunch stop we could see the Roman temple and amphitheatre on the mountain above the town, so Sue, Lynn, Robert and I set off to try to find the best place to photograph it.
Due to distractions (schoolchildren love saying hello, but can’t say much more in English and so so conversation flags very quickly; small supermarkets are an attraction within themselves) we didn’t get too far down the road in the time available, but we did find a reasonably good spot – only to find that it was outside a military barracks and we weren’t allowed to photograph from there!
We got back to the bus and then headed off to Izmer. We stopped here to take photos of the old town centre (opposite) and the attractions on the coast. One interesting aspect here was tha the height of the buildings decreased down the side streets the further they were from the waterfront.
After that it was along to a toilet stop before we turned off at Ephasus for Kusadasi, our stop for tonight and our home for two nights.
The first order of business was to find out about Internet – yes, they had WiFi and I got the password – but when I went to connect, no problem with Mail but GMail and Flickr would not connect. Yet Flickr upload would!
I processed a few photos and then went down the street to survey the scene. It looked very different from the description given to me by a friend from Derrinallum – there is now no “main” street or pier, rather a plethora of both! I got some supplies for tomorrow and then went back and had tea. This I had with Carol and Christine, and after we went for a walk down the street and I explored a bit further and asked about a particular person, but got no reply.
After that it was back to the room, finish processing the photos and uploading them – and finding now all Internet connections worked! I sent out my email and replied to a few, started to write up my blog but then decided to go to sleep about 0030.
Monday, October 20, 2008
20 October
Today – the first real day of the tour (despite the booklet and the literature describing it as Day 2) and I was up, early (but not too bright) at 0600. I packed everything in the suitcase and most of the pack (got the wakeup call, which was amazing!), then showered and dressed.
The suitcase was left outside the door and I went down for breakfast (with Vegemite and laptop). Despite being there at 0700, there were already quite a few there (so I will try for 0645 tomorrow, rather than being on time, as I can post this blog and check emails anyway), so I had to sit at a large table (with no-one else) to ensure I could get an Internet WiFi signal.
I had breakfast and received a few emails (and sent out a few, replies to ones sent only a few minutes earlier) and was back to Room 116 at 0740. It was finish my preparations, pack the pack completely and scan the room for things left behind. What amazed me was that I had left a pin and tip on the bed (which I normally don’t do, but each morning my pyjamas have been buttoned and folded) and it had gone! At 0750 I went slowly down to the bus and found most had already got on. After looking at the available seats, I decided on one of two spare at the back and I would take pot luck with whoever took the other. In the end, it was Sue, who will also be on the tour in Egypt.
The bus set off at just after 0800, along the south side of the Golden Horn. I got to see a few of the sights I had seen from the sightseeing bus, including the motorbike on an elevated stand at the Police Motor Headquarters. The traffic was quite heavy, as it was Monday and a normal working morning and we were in peak hour traffic.
As we left the city we got to see different suburbs and different areas, some with only low, middle or upper class housing, while some areas had all together. Low class housing was more predominant around the industrial suburbs, even though some of them were being rebuilt.
After a while we turned southward, then after reaching the coast of the sea of Marmara we followed it along the northern edge, past what had been little villages and what were now retreats for foreigners (because of relatively low prices) and finally, by lunchtime, to the settlement of Gallipoli.
Here we stopped for lunch, but Sue and I went for a walk around the town. There was a neat little fishing harbour where the restaurant was, then commercial and retail streets in the immediate area. Sue found out that the bricks used for building here are very light. It was fun seeing the goods on sale and the prices and variety. In some places they were unique, like sheep’s heads (raw or cooked), while in others there were what you would see in any large store in Australia (even the same brand, but with different electrical cords). There were a large number of students in uniform walking the streets, and we tried to find out from three boys whether they were going home to (or coming back from) lunch or if they had finished for the day. Neither of us understood the other, so it remained a mystery for the next half hour (only solved because we passed a school with students in the yard on our way out of town). On our way back to the bus, I saw a photogenic dog – but was amazed when it roused on hearing the shutter and then went back to sleep when it realised I wasn’t coming over. There was also a back harbour, with smaller and poorer boats than the front harbour. A horse and cart, with the driver selling vegetables, had only moved about twenty metres in the time we had walked up and down.
Just before we got to the bus, I saw a European semi-trailer, so I couldn’t resist getting a photo. They only have six wheels on the trailer (three singles each side, unlike Australian with three doubles each side) and only one rear axle on the prime mover (unlike Australian with tandem axles).
We set off for Gallipoli (the peninsula) and arrived there in a short time. It is a very good showpiece for having either rails or raised roadways, with limited transport (perhaps shuttles), to minimise the damage while maximising access. However, as things are the way they are, we drove in by bus and stopped at Anzac Cove and a short look around, then up to Lone Pine and again a short look around. Then, but for a different reason, we went to the Turkish memorial for their 57th Brigade and also stopped there.
I had wondered what it would be like at Gallipoli, understanding its significance in our national psyche, but without any personal involvement (unlike the Somme, where my grandfather fought and won a medal). I felt moved and saddened while there, but did not experience the total depth of emotion that I did at the Somme. Perhaps after some more reading, or visiting by myself (though I doubt I will ever make it back), it will move me more. I do think that the depth of emotion is governed by the personal links to the area, and if I ever find a relative was involved there, then I may feel differently. However, like in France and Belgium, I felt no animosity towards soldiers from the other side, but I did feel despair that politicians used (and continue to use) ordinary people, their lives and emotions, to further their own ends.
We left and headed towards the Dardenelles and caught a ferry over to Canakkale. On the ferry we were next to a bus of forty children and four teachers on a week-long excursion. Some of our group chatted to some of the children while we were crossing. There were a number of naval vessels which were visible during our crossing.
After a fair drive out of the town, we arrived at Tusan and our hotel. We were given our room keys, I investigated WiFi (definitely in the lobby, perhaps in the room) and then I went to my room (118). I set batteries to charge and set up the laptop – no WiFi signal. I processed the photos, then went to the lobby, couldn’t get a signal and mentioned to the clerk and, within a minute, signal. I started uploading the photos, checked the email and then wandered to see where the signal was – only in the lobby. I stayed there until I had finished (during which time two other tour buses came in), showed the movie of the Xi’an fountain show to some, then went in and had tea.
I sat with Robert (from Adelaide) and Sue and Lynn (from Sydney). Tea was a vegetable course, noodle soup, chicken with salad, bread, and finally ice cream. We all had a good talk about things over tea and then I showed them some of the photos from today (they seem to have come out okay), some from Istanbul, China and my favourite, Bryce Canyon. I’m pleased they seem to share my love of it.
After that it was back to my room (where I discovered there IS a plug for the bath/sink – but I can’t really do any washing tonight) where I changed for the night, wrote my blog and finally started to get ready for bed by about 1010. I aim to be up before 0600 tomorrow.
The suitcase was left outside the door and I went down for breakfast (with Vegemite and laptop). Despite being there at 0700, there were already quite a few there (so I will try for 0645 tomorrow, rather than being on time, as I can post this blog and check emails anyway), so I had to sit at a large table (with no-one else) to ensure I could get an Internet WiFi signal.
I had breakfast and received a few emails (and sent out a few, replies to ones sent only a few minutes earlier) and was back to Room 116 at 0740. It was finish my preparations, pack the pack completely and scan the room for things left behind. What amazed me was that I had left a pin and tip on the bed (which I normally don’t do, but each morning my pyjamas have been buttoned and folded) and it had gone! At 0750 I went slowly down to the bus and found most had already got on. After looking at the available seats, I decided on one of two spare at the back and I would take pot luck with whoever took the other. In the end, it was Sue, who will also be on the tour in Egypt.
The bus set off at just after 0800, along the south side of the Golden Horn. I got to see a few of the sights I had seen from the sightseeing bus, including the motorbike on an elevated stand at the Police Motor Headquarters. The traffic was quite heavy, as it was Monday and a normal working morning and we were in peak hour traffic.
As we left the city we got to see different suburbs and different areas, some with only low, middle or upper class housing, while some areas had all together. Low class housing was more predominant around the industrial suburbs, even though some of them were being rebuilt.
After a while we turned southward, then after reaching the coast of the sea of Marmara we followed it along the northern edge, past what had been little villages and what were now retreats for foreigners (because of relatively low prices) and finally, by lunchtime, to the settlement of Gallipoli.
Here we stopped for lunch, but Sue and I went for a walk around the town. There was a neat little fishing harbour where the restaurant was, then commercial and retail streets in the immediate area. Sue found out that the bricks used for building here are very light. It was fun seeing the goods on sale and the prices and variety. In some places they were unique, like sheep’s heads (raw or cooked), while in others there were what you would see in any large store in Australia (even the same brand, but with different electrical cords). There were a large number of students in uniform walking the streets, and we tried to find out from three boys whether they were going home to (or coming back from) lunch or if they had finished for the day. Neither of us understood the other, so it remained a mystery for the next half hour (only solved because we passed a school with students in the yard on our way out of town). On our way back to the bus, I saw a photogenic dog – but was amazed when it roused on hearing the shutter and then went back to sleep when it realised I wasn’t coming over. There was also a back harbour, with smaller and poorer boats than the front harbour. A horse and cart, with the driver selling vegetables, had only moved about twenty metres in the time we had walked up and down.
Just before we got to the bus, I saw a European semi-trailer, so I couldn’t resist getting a photo. They only have six wheels on the trailer (three singles each side, unlike Australian with three doubles each side) and only one rear axle on the prime mover (unlike Australian with tandem axles).
We set off for Gallipoli (the peninsula) and arrived there in a short time. It is a very good showpiece for having either rails or raised roadways, with limited transport (perhaps shuttles), to minimise the damage while maximising access. However, as things are the way they are, we drove in by bus and stopped at Anzac Cove and a short look around, then up to Lone Pine and again a short look around. Then, but for a different reason, we went to the Turkish memorial for their 57th Brigade and also stopped there.
I had wondered what it would be like at Gallipoli, understanding its significance in our national psyche, but without any personal involvement (unlike the Somme, where my grandfather fought and won a medal). I felt moved and saddened while there, but did not experience the total depth of emotion that I did at the Somme. Perhaps after some more reading, or visiting by myself (though I doubt I will ever make it back), it will move me more. I do think that the depth of emotion is governed by the personal links to the area, and if I ever find a relative was involved there, then I may feel differently. However, like in France and Belgium, I felt no animosity towards soldiers from the other side, but I did feel despair that politicians used (and continue to use) ordinary people, their lives and emotions, to further their own ends.
We left and headed towards the Dardenelles and caught a ferry over to Canakkale. On the ferry we were next to a bus of forty children and four teachers on a week-long excursion. Some of our group chatted to some of the children while we were crossing. There were a number of naval vessels which were visible during our crossing.
After a fair drive out of the town, we arrived at Tusan and our hotel. We were given our room keys, I investigated WiFi (definitely in the lobby, perhaps in the room) and then I went to my room (118). I set batteries to charge and set up the laptop – no WiFi signal. I processed the photos, then went to the lobby, couldn’t get a signal and mentioned to the clerk and, within a minute, signal. I started uploading the photos, checked the email and then wandered to see where the signal was – only in the lobby. I stayed there until I had finished (during which time two other tour buses came in), showed the movie of the Xi’an fountain show to some, then went in and had tea.
I sat with Robert (from Adelaide) and Sue and Lynn (from Sydney). Tea was a vegetable course, noodle soup, chicken with salad, bread, and finally ice cream. We all had a good talk about things over tea and then I showed them some of the photos from today (they seem to have come out okay), some from Istanbul, China and my favourite, Bryce Canyon. I’m pleased they seem to share my love of it.
After that it was back to my room (where I discovered there IS a plug for the bath/sink – but I can’t really do any washing tonight) where I changed for the night, wrote my blog and finally started to get ready for bed by about 1010. I aim to be up before 0600 tomorrow.
Sunday, October 19, 2008
19 October
Today I slept in – deliberately, sort of, in that I had no urgent pressing engagements and nothing in particular I wanted to visit. I wasn’t down for breakfast until nearly 0730.
Breakfast was fairly quiet until after 0800 when Joan saw my Vegemite and introduced herself. She and her husband, Lou are also on the Cosmos tour and arrived yesterday sometime. I spent a little time answering two emails (I’m glad someone is reading these, as I haven’t received any emails or comments directly from anyone who read my “extraordinary” entry), then met Lynn and Sue, who are also on the same tour. I suppose I won’t find out until 1800 tonight (our orientation meeting) how many are actually on it). We chatted about past touring and what could be good (and not so good, of the optional tours) and then I headed back up.
I got ready for the day, which was shirt weather (so the “vest” went on, to store and carry all the valuables). My room had already been done, so I finished the washing and hung it all up, hoping at least some of it would dry during the day. Then I set out for the day and ran into Sue and Lynn again, catching up with another who had just finished the tour and discussing alternatives (and what to do today).
I walked down to the ferry terminal and followed the example of two German girls who just got a token and set off on the next ferry. At the Eminonu terminal I caught the ferry to Kadikoy and got off there. I walked around to the railway station at Haydarpasa where they just had a Railway conference (NOT Railroad!) This was the terminal for the Asian side and Serkici was the terminal for the European side (the Orient Express used to run to here, but now only does so once a year and on special occasions). From here, in a decorated but small terminal, I caught the ferry to Karskoy, which is just north across the Galata Bridge from the station and the hotel. As there was an ATM right there, in the open, I used that to top up my supply of Turkish currency (and hope I don’t need any more). After that I walked along the waterfront, along the Golden Horn (north side), past the little markets (where I suspect some of the fisherman stop by on the way home) and the people fishing (including some very young ones) and finally along roads up to Taksim. The monument here was blocked off, with a policeman patrolling with a machine pistol (I’ve never seen so many automatic rifles and pistols). I rang Fran and (aunt) Jean here and then had lunch. On my way out I saw riot police out and asked some people there why. According too them (and there may be a problem in translation, today is a national day of some sort or a festival/public celebration and the police are ready for trouble. There are also a few armoured cars with water cannon ready, but not out. I walked back to hotel through alleys and across Galata Bridge, guided by my GPS. Along the way I saw some interesting sights, including ancient wall bits right on the main road (and where the footpath disappears and you have to walk on the road and then back on the footpath when it reappears). I was back to the hotel by 1500 and found … the washing was not dry! Also, for some reason, there was a bottle of water outside my door. I wonder if it is a Cosmos bonus?
I downloaded the photos, processed them and then wrote up most of my blog for the day. After I went down to the lobby and uploaded the photos and blog and checked for mail.
Here I ran into Carol and Christine, from Sydney, who just finished the Greek Cosmos tour and are joining the Turkey tour. Looks like there will be quite a few Australians on it.
I attended the meeting and it looks like it will be … interesting.
It started with a number missing (which presumably he should know about because he has flight details) and a number late. I hope that isn’t a sign for the future, especially after the first tour I was on having everyone being early.
There are complaints about the rooms already. Toilets blocked, air conditioners faulty, rooms too hot, rooms too small, no plugs for basins, smoke in rooms.
It looks like it will be easier for me to ask about Internet at Reception when we book in rather than relying on Aran (our tour director).
There are queries about prices and charges, because different booklets have different methods of paying in them.
I asked about a new luggage tag because the staff broke mine on the last day on the first tour (and I only got given one for three tours). No, there aren’t any – we don’t have them because we are an independent company (how hard is to freight over a number to keep in offices and distribute a few to each tour director).
Some of the other queries got short shrift and already newbies are picked out because of the questions asked. I wonder how I will go with my food allergies?
Morning call is at 0630, breakfast is at 0700 (with bags out then – most annoying as it means I have to carry toothbrush and Vegemite with me all day) and bus entry at 0800. We have to work a seat rotation, so I wonder who I will be with and how we will work out window/aisle seating. It is all a learning experience.
After, I went back to my room and finished this blog entry (so I’ll repost in the morning), checked the washing (still isn’t dry, so I won’t wash clothes tonight), left the laptop to charge and charged a battery for Lynn (she forgot that it won’t charge unless you have the room key tag in, a most annoying feature of some hotels/motels).
Now to get an early night, a good sleep and to approach tomorrow with a positive attitude.
Aside:
It’s interesting to see what priorities people have. One comment made was that people here litter. In that case, there are many more countries further up the misdemeanour list. Although litter may be unsightly and cause an inconvenience, I would put universal safe drinking water, drainage and toilet facilities higher on the priority list. That is the greatest improvement for public health. The second would be to stop spitting and the consequent spread of disease. Then I would have regular and frequent garbage collections and rubbish bins out on the streets – one reason I would say people litter is that there is nowhere to put the litter.
It seems some people have not learned the public health improvements made nearly 150 years ago and which worked are effective. Unfortunately Australia is going backwards in many of them, with partially treated recycled water and the removal of rubbish bins (or amount of rubbish which can be dumped). In other countries with the same philosophy of minimising rubbish collections, people find more creative ways of getting rid of excess rubbish, usually not safely or healthily.
Also, having seen some of the living conditions of people in Istanbul (and knowing they are better than in many other places in Turkey, public housing and health would be better areas to focus on.
Today I also saw many homeless. At the airport, one was pointed out to me. Here, in the city, there are many visible. Knowing that there are also many illegal immigrants here to have a better life, for a lot of people just existing must be difficult day to day. One thing travel has made me realise is that despite all the failings in Australia and the hardships created by governments of all persuasions, people don’t HAVE to starve or be homeless in Australia (though many choose to do so for personal reasons at particular times) as there are both government and other bodies which can and do assist.
Breakfast was fairly quiet until after 0800 when Joan saw my Vegemite and introduced herself. She and her husband, Lou are also on the Cosmos tour and arrived yesterday sometime. I spent a little time answering two emails (I’m glad someone is reading these, as I haven’t received any emails or comments directly from anyone who read my “extraordinary” entry), then met Lynn and Sue, who are also on the same tour. I suppose I won’t find out until 1800 tonight (our orientation meeting) how many are actually on it). We chatted about past touring and what could be good (and not so good, of the optional tours) and then I headed back up.
I got ready for the day, which was shirt weather (so the “vest” went on, to store and carry all the valuables). My room had already been done, so I finished the washing and hung it all up, hoping at least some of it would dry during the day. Then I set out for the day and ran into Sue and Lynn again, catching up with another who had just finished the tour and discussing alternatives (and what to do today).
I walked down to the ferry terminal and followed the example of two German girls who just got a token and set off on the next ferry. At the Eminonu terminal I caught the ferry to Kadikoy and got off there. I walked around to the railway station at Haydarpasa where they just had a Railway conference (NOT Railroad!) This was the terminal for the Asian side and Serkici was the terminal for the European side (the Orient Express used to run to here, but now only does so once a year and on special occasions). From here, in a decorated but small terminal, I caught the ferry to Karskoy, which is just north across the Galata Bridge from the station and the hotel. As there was an ATM right there, in the open, I used that to top up my supply of Turkish currency (and hope I don’t need any more). After that I walked along the waterfront, along the Golden Horn (north side), past the little markets (where I suspect some of the fisherman stop by on the way home) and the people fishing (including some very young ones) and finally along roads up to Taksim. The monument here was blocked off, with a policeman patrolling with a machine pistol (I’ve never seen so many automatic rifles and pistols). I rang Fran and (aunt) Jean here and then had lunch. On my way out I saw riot police out and asked some people there why. According too them (and there may be a problem in translation, today is a national day of some sort or a festival/public celebration and the police are ready for trouble. There are also a few armoured cars with water cannon ready, but not out. I walked back to hotel through alleys and across Galata Bridge, guided by my GPS. Along the way I saw some interesting sights, including ancient wall bits right on the main road (and where the footpath disappears and you have to walk on the road and then back on the footpath when it reappears). I was back to the hotel by 1500 and found … the washing was not dry! Also, for some reason, there was a bottle of water outside my door. I wonder if it is a Cosmos bonus?
I downloaded the photos, processed them and then wrote up most of my blog for the day. After I went down to the lobby and uploaded the photos and blog and checked for mail.
Here I ran into Carol and Christine, from Sydney, who just finished the Greek Cosmos tour and are joining the Turkey tour. Looks like there will be quite a few Australians on it.
I attended the meeting and it looks like it will be … interesting.
It started with a number missing (which presumably he should know about because he has flight details) and a number late. I hope that isn’t a sign for the future, especially after the first tour I was on having everyone being early.
There are complaints about the rooms already. Toilets blocked, air conditioners faulty, rooms too hot, rooms too small, no plugs for basins, smoke in rooms.
It looks like it will be easier for me to ask about Internet at Reception when we book in rather than relying on Aran (our tour director).
There are queries about prices and charges, because different booklets have different methods of paying in them.
I asked about a new luggage tag because the staff broke mine on the last day on the first tour (and I only got given one for three tours). No, there aren’t any – we don’t have them because we are an independent company (how hard is to freight over a number to keep in offices and distribute a few to each tour director).
Some of the other queries got short shrift and already newbies are picked out because of the questions asked. I wonder how I will go with my food allergies?
Morning call is at 0630, breakfast is at 0700 (with bags out then – most annoying as it means I have to carry toothbrush and Vegemite with me all day) and bus entry at 0800. We have to work a seat rotation, so I wonder who I will be with and how we will work out window/aisle seating. It is all a learning experience.
After, I went back to my room and finished this blog entry (so I’ll repost in the morning), checked the washing (still isn’t dry, so I won’t wash clothes tonight), left the laptop to charge and charged a battery for Lynn (she forgot that it won’t charge unless you have the room key tag in, a most annoying feature of some hotels/motels).
Now to get an early night, a good sleep and to approach tomorrow with a positive attitude.
Aside:
It’s interesting to see what priorities people have. One comment made was that people here litter. In that case, there are many more countries further up the misdemeanour list. Although litter may be unsightly and cause an inconvenience, I would put universal safe drinking water, drainage and toilet facilities higher on the priority list. That is the greatest improvement for public health. The second would be to stop spitting and the consequent spread of disease. Then I would have regular and frequent garbage collections and rubbish bins out on the streets – one reason I would say people litter is that there is nowhere to put the litter.
It seems some people have not learned the public health improvements made nearly 150 years ago and which worked are effective. Unfortunately Australia is going backwards in many of them, with partially treated recycled water and the removal of rubbish bins (or amount of rubbish which can be dumped). In other countries with the same philosophy of minimising rubbish collections, people find more creative ways of getting rid of excess rubbish, usually not safely or healthily.
Also, having seen some of the living conditions of people in Istanbul (and knowing they are better than in many other places in Turkey, public housing and health would be better areas to focus on.
Today I also saw many homeless. At the airport, one was pointed out to me. Here, in the city, there are many visible. Knowing that there are also many illegal immigrants here to have a better life, for a lot of people just existing must be difficult day to day. One thing travel has made me realise is that despite all the failings in Australia and the hardships created by governments of all persuasions, people don’t HAVE to starve or be homeless in Australia (though many choose to do so for personal reasons at particular times) as there are both government and other bodies which can and do assist.
Saturday, October 18, 2008
18 October
After rising as usual, having breakfast and then departing the hotel by 0830, I was down bright and early for the City Sightseeing Istanbul Hop on - Hop off tour – but unfortunately too early, as they don’t start until 1000. Having been foiled there I went to the Archaeological Museum – perhaps the cheapest and best value so far, at YTL10 and I spent over three and a half hours looking at the exhibits (and could have spent a lot longer, but decided I was becoming a museum junkie and I should try to break the habit before I find the craving overtakes me completely).
The exhibits are arranged in historical order, from pre-history through to Nineteenth Century. Indispersed are exhibits from Troy and other particular places, plus the museum has a small childrens’ centre, where there is a Trojan Horse small ones can climb into.
I finally had to drag myself away and finally made it up to the City Sightseeing Istanbul Hop on - Hop off tour by just before 1300 and caught that tour, sitting up the front (but this time having a full windscreen in front of me so I wouldn’t get clobbered by a branch again – this is the SAME COMPANY which runs the Paris tour I went on!).
The tour covers seventy-three places, which I was going to list, but I think now I’ll wait until I get home and just put the brochure through the scanner (as the destinations aren’t on their web site yet). However, some interesting parts: the hop on - hop off stops are just on the side of the street, so you’d better be there on time because they can only stop for a short time; this didn’t stop the driver and guide from stopping on a bridge and ordering a cup of tea from a street-side vendor and then waiting for it to be made and passed in; the driver managed to stop on a roundabout exit and then back into a stopping place, backwards through all the traffic; at some points, taxis in front of us disappeared from our sigh completely and the other front-seat passengers and myself couldn’t see them even when leaning completely forward.
After I got off from that I had another late lunch (I don’t know how I will adapt next week when it is set meal times) and walked back to the hotel to divest myself of tickets and brochures (otherwise I tend to bend or drop them) and then headed off to the Galata Tower, which I had seen from the bus and took my fancy.
That was a surprisingly short walk, and part of that was through a subway where I saw two interesting shops; one was selling chain saws (obviously impulse buys by people walking pass – “I’ll buy a chain saw, because I never know when I’ll need one and it will come in handy anyway”) and the other was selling remote controls – all appeared new and were packaged, and the range was HUGE!
I walked up to the tower and was fortunate enough to go straight in – at YTL10 yet again – and almost straight up seven floors in the lift, so I only had to walk up three floors. It was quite crowded around the parapet, but the views were very good. If you look at the photos from there, you will see distant ones appear hazy – pollution!
I walked back through small streets and alleys. I saw an interesting way of enforcing one-way traffic (the spikes) and ran across a Turkish Romeo and Juliet – who were kind enough to pose for me, even though they didn’t understand English.
The bridge was filled with fishermen (no women that I could see) and some had good catches, but the fish were only about ten centimetres long. A fillet would perhaps provide a small hors d’ouvres. I was tempted to buy a cob of corn (a lot are sold on the street and smell very nice) but resisted and only got a can of Coke Zero from the “hole in the wall” shop on the street just before the hotel (and at YTL1,25, it’s the cheapest in Istanbul).
Back in the hotel I started to process the photos – good job I numbered from the thousands to start with as I still have another day here myself and then a day and a half with the tour. I didn’t finish that until 1915 and then rushed down to the lobby to get Internet access and check my mail, send out my mail and start uploading the photos. While that was happening I had enough time to write this blog and post it. I still have to do my washing, so have to do some of that tonight and some tomorrow night (shirts dry quickest – singlets dry slowest). At 2000, it looks like I won’t be back at my room until after 2100 at the earliest. The trials of trying to record so much!
As a matter of interest, I have been picked as a writer by a number of people I’ve spoken too. I’m not sure what it is, but I’ll have to find out why.
The exhibits are arranged in historical order, from pre-history through to Nineteenth Century. Indispersed are exhibits from Troy and other particular places, plus the museum has a small childrens’ centre, where there is a Trojan Horse small ones can climb into.
I finally had to drag myself away and finally made it up to the City Sightseeing Istanbul Hop on - Hop off tour by just before 1300 and caught that tour, sitting up the front (but this time having a full windscreen in front of me so I wouldn’t get clobbered by a branch again – this is the SAME COMPANY which runs the Paris tour I went on!).
The tour covers seventy-three places, which I was going to list, but I think now I’ll wait until I get home and just put the brochure through the scanner (as the destinations aren’t on their web site yet). However, some interesting parts: the hop on - hop off stops are just on the side of the street, so you’d better be there on time because they can only stop for a short time; this didn’t stop the driver and guide from stopping on a bridge and ordering a cup of tea from a street-side vendor and then waiting for it to be made and passed in; the driver managed to stop on a roundabout exit and then back into a stopping place, backwards through all the traffic; at some points, taxis in front of us disappeared from our sigh completely and the other front-seat passengers and myself couldn’t see them even when leaning completely forward.
After I got off from that I had another late lunch (I don’t know how I will adapt next week when it is set meal times) and walked back to the hotel to divest myself of tickets and brochures (otherwise I tend to bend or drop them) and then headed off to the Galata Tower, which I had seen from the bus and took my fancy.
That was a surprisingly short walk, and part of that was through a subway where I saw two interesting shops; one was selling chain saws (obviously impulse buys by people walking pass – “I’ll buy a chain saw, because I never know when I’ll need one and it will come in handy anyway”) and the other was selling remote controls – all appeared new and were packaged, and the range was HUGE!
I walked up to the tower and was fortunate enough to go straight in – at YTL10 yet again – and almost straight up seven floors in the lift, so I only had to walk up three floors. It was quite crowded around the parapet, but the views were very good. If you look at the photos from there, you will see distant ones appear hazy – pollution!
I walked back through small streets and alleys. I saw an interesting way of enforcing one-way traffic (the spikes) and ran across a Turkish Romeo and Juliet – who were kind enough to pose for me, even though they didn’t understand English.
The bridge was filled with fishermen (no women that I could see) and some had good catches, but the fish were only about ten centimetres long. A fillet would perhaps provide a small hors d’ouvres. I was tempted to buy a cob of corn (a lot are sold on the street and smell very nice) but resisted and only got a can of Coke Zero from the “hole in the wall” shop on the street just before the hotel (and at YTL1,25, it’s the cheapest in Istanbul).
Back in the hotel I started to process the photos – good job I numbered from the thousands to start with as I still have another day here myself and then a day and a half with the tour. I didn’t finish that until 1915 and then rushed down to the lobby to get Internet access and check my mail, send out my mail and start uploading the photos. While that was happening I had enough time to write this blog and post it. I still have to do my washing, so have to do some of that tonight and some tomorrow night (shirts dry quickest – singlets dry slowest). At 2000, it looks like I won’t be back at my room until after 2100 at the earliest. The trials of trying to record so much!
As a matter of interest, I have been picked as a writer by a number of people I’ve spoken too. I’m not sure what it is, but I’ll have to find out why.
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