5 September

Today I was up at 0625 and down for breakfast at 0700 – only to find people ALREADY down there! The times I was given were wrong!
I had breakfast with (as I found out later) a couple from Helsinki who were the equivalent of our U3A. Unfortunately the lady’s English was limited to about ten words and her husband less. SO there wasn’t much information exchanged.
I was ready to go up to my room to finish packing at 0745 only to find my two travelling companions, John and Carrie, already outside and our guide and driver, Timo (wife of Anne) already there with the mini-bus. I very hurriedly cleaned my teeth and finished packing, made sure there was nothing left in the room and went downstairs ready for action, with suitcase in hand, backpack on (my back) and camera and case (with gloves and cap attached) around my neck. I left Timo to pack it in the back and I went up to the front seat and made myself comfortable, with the pack at my feet and the camera, etc., next to me.
We set off and headed north-west to Kirkenes (in Norway). Along the way we discussed aspects of the Finnish life and countryside, weather, the different seasons, the flora and the fauna. When we saw some reindeer along the way Timo stopped so Carrie and John could get some pictures – but apparently the reindeer are spooked if you walk towards them, so you either have to stay in the vehicle or take the pictures ‘around the corner’ of the vehicle you are travelling in.
We called in at a Reindeer Research Station, where research into foods, taste of the meat and carrying capacity investigated, while skills in reindeer handling, husbandry and slaughtering are taught there. They even have slaughterhouses which are in containers so they can be taken to remote locations and placed by helicopter!
We then stopped in briefly at a launching point on Lake Inari, where we saw the locals’ boats just laying there – something abut country life is the same everywhere.
Then we called in at a Skolti Sami village, about twenty families, and saw the museum there. We got to see a little of the culture as it was moved and relocated from territory which reverted to Russia after WWII. Not long after that we called in for morning tea at a little roadside café. The cost was surprisingly little (€2,40), given the costs I have become used to in Scandinavian places. Then we proceeded on into Norway and stopped at the river to see a small waterfall, on a river famous for salmon.
After that, we went almost straight into Kirkenes and dropped John and Carrie at the Lofoten, the ship they were taking down to Bergen. Timo gave me a quick tour of the town and then dropped me at the office of the tour agents in Kirkenes, where I was introduced to Anne. I left my luggage there and went for a walk around the town, after visiting an ATM to get some Norwegian cash. First stop was the supermarket, for rolls and a drink, and then a walk along the waterfront while eating and drinking the same. The waterfront was interesting because of the ships in there for repainting and other services. Apparently Kirkenes is an important shipbuilding area.
After a walk through a few residential streets to get the flavour of the town, I had a look at the shopping area. Apart from the normal spread of shops, there was also a shopping centre, fully enclosed, and a Salvation Army store. Things here were very cheap compared to elsewhere. By 1330 I had seen most things and walked back to the tour centre where I was treated to cake and coffee (which I can drink black, but only with sugar) and checked my email.
About 1415 Anne spotted the bus in, so we went over and, after a bit of discussion, I was on with both my pack and suitcase in the luggage compartment (I didn’t feel comfortable with it out of my sight). There was a Russian family (mother, father and young son) and a Russian woman already on, but given thirteen seats, the number seemed small (but there were bags on some other seats). Before we left, the number swelled to twelve, with a couple from Gembrook (originally Germany) who recognised my accent. The second-last passenger to board was a young woman with multiple piercings. We finally set off at 1500 to the sounds of Lionel Ritchie. Everything progressed well ad I soon found out that the young woman could speak English, as the couple from Gembrook were talking with her. We stopped at the Norwegian border control post and were processed reasonably quickly, and then set out to the Russian border post. Things were a little slower there as we had to carry our luggage through, but al least I know now what the visa number is. I went through the “Nothing to Declare” aisle and was back on the bus very quickly. We have, as visitors, a white sheet of paper to verify when we entered and when we expect to leave. That has to be checked when the passport is.
Just as we went through the first point where everything was again checked, another passenger boarded. I moved to the back row with the young woman and the Australian couple and we all had a most interesting chat along the way. We had one further check.
After a slow run we stopped at a place for a toilet break (ten roubles each) and a stretch. We then went slowly on to Murmansk, with a two our time difference making the time later still.
We finally arrived at Murmansk, where the couple and I were staying at the same hotel. W got off the bus (a Mercedes Sprinter long wheelbase, with thirteen passenger seats and the driver) at about 2220 and checked in. I was in 613. Passports had to be left at the front desk (to be picked up when we leave) and I was give a parcel and instructions to met Alexander at 1000 tomorrow. Then it was to the room, prepare, process the photos (none taken between Kirkenes and Murmansk, just in case) and then started writing the diary. I tried the Internet cable, but it was a dial-up, not Ethernet, so didn’t work. Finally, about 0010 I went to bed.