20 September

I started writing this up in the St Petersburg-Moscow station on paper. But in the train – bingo! A power outlet in the compartment. So at 0620 on the 21st, I’m typing this.
What a day! Fast police cars. Coincidences and other kind people.
Although I woke at 0700 there was no hurry so I didn’t get up until after 0800. By the time I had finished the usual ablutions (and finding the water, like some people, ran hot, cold, hot, cold), I was down for breakfast at 0835. Today there was orange juice (tepid) but still no toaster. I ended up sharing my table with a Russian lady from Murmansk, who was impressed that I knew of it, had been there and liked it, but was not impressed by my lack of Russian. For me, the worse thing is that I can now read a bit of Russian, on context, and read signs and advertising, but not pronounce anything (other than “da;, “nyet” and “nyet Russki”). After a conversation of not too many words and a breakfast including vegetables (no toast but Vegemite and raw toast again, with peas, carrots, corn and peppers). On the way back to my room I enquired about leaving my luggage (OK), so I ewnt up, finished my ablutions, finished packing (including a parcel to go home) and finally checked the room to ensure nothing was left behind. When I went to check out, on the first attempt I got a bill for 3150 py6 (roubles), but on checking that was reduced to 150 py6 (a registration fee, which no-one else has charged – or perhaps no-one else has registered me). I left the luggage (suitcase and backpack) and headed off to the Metro t go to the city Post Office to post the parcel.
I got out at the Metro station nearest the Post Office and couldn’t determine which way to turn (no street signs in Russian or English) and the lack of sun (overcast and cool) meant I couldn’t orientate myself for direction. I did the only thing I could and asked a policeman. After realising what I was after (post office to post a parcel), he indicated I should cross the street, turn left, then turn right and finally turn left again. Then he indicated for me to follow him. I did so until I came to a red pedestrian light, but he urged me to ignore it and follow him. I did and found myself in a police car, a nd a few moments later was travelling the streets of St Petersburg at up to 100 km/hr and through all lights (except if there was a vehicle stopped in front of us, in which case he had to slow down to go around it) until we arrived at the Post Office a few minutes after. I thanked him very much and got out, and he was off as the door was closing.
At the Post Office, emboldened by my previous success, I asked a security guard which line to post a parcel to Australia (a mixture of mime and speech). She took me over to a line and put me in it. While waitig, I struck up a sort of conversation with a young couple behind me. At the window I presented my plastic bag of books, sheets, DVD and a CD. The woman clerk went through and took out the CD and DVD (the couple explained that printed material goes more cheaply) and then handed the parcel to the woman next to her to be wrapped. I was handed it back with the words “TO” and “FROM” in different places and I filled hem out, then stood back in line. I continued conversation with the wife (the husband was now filling out forms at the window(, but was called to the second window as soon as the person there had left. After she weighed the parcel, I got a request for 556,3 py6, which I paid. She stuck a pile of stamps on (good), cancelled hem (good) and covered them with adhesive tape (bad). Then my parcel, securely wrapped in brown paper and held together with tape and string, was cast into a sorting bin (hopefully to arrive in Australia before I do). I left, thanking the wife and asking her to thank the husband for me.
I departed and rang Fran fro outside, explaining that another parcel was on its way (the two from Finland have arrived) and detailing my high-speed ride through St Petersburg. I decided that I would go back to the city centre along the canals, to see more slowly (and a bit more comfortably, as the temperature was not as low as on the canal boat), the scenery I had seen earlier in the week. Imagine my surprise when, after crossing two streets, I spied two very familiar faces – Scott and Carmel from the boat! After commenting how we could hardly believe coincidences, I got their email addresses and then we swapped notes on what we had seen seen our departure from the ship (an dour adventures with hotels). WE than parted again (when will we meet again under similar peculiar circumstances) and I walked down beside he canal. At the main street, I turned, walked up to the gardens (a misnomer as there are gardens everywhere), took some photos and then went back to arrive at Macca’s at 1217 (not a good memory, I just referred to the receipt). Feeling more comfortable (the toilets are free there) and with the inner man refreshed, I walked a long the embankment in front of the Hermitage , over the river (on the Eiffel Bridge) and around to the cruiser “Aurora”. Here the children I encountered were all aged over thirty and having a lot of fun. Interesting things: this ship fired a blank round at the Winter Palace to begin the October (November) revolution; it was sunk to prevent the Germans getting it in WWII; it has 152,4 mm main guns, which are in fact 6 inch! However I was feeling footsore again at this point. I must toughen up as only four hours walking is not really excessive, but shipboard life and conducted tours have softened me up. I decided to ride the rails and have a look around, but found Rasputin was not the only crafty Russian: on the St Petersburg Metro, you HAVE to get out at the last station AND you can’t just walk to the return platform – you have to use another token! I did that and rode another line, looking at the stations along the way (all with “no photography” signs – I didn’t know if that was still up-to-date, but didn’t want to find out the hard way). After that it was back to the hotel (the crowds on the Metro were thinning), use of the public WC there (the first time I have had to pull a chain in years) and then picking up my luggage. It was a surprisingly short time before I was back at the Metro with my luggage, down the steps (and the escalator) and onto the train. I had to go through the luggage barrier (without turnstiles, and use a plastic token, which a guard got for me) but that was the only hassle. With the lightly loaded train I could turn without fear of maiming someone with the backpack (currently it’s about ten kilograms). At the other end it was another escalator ride and ten steps, a short walk and I was in the hall of the Moscow station. After getting a drink I found a seat, had the donuts from yesterday (and some chocolate) for tea and settled down. I watched “Goldfinger” and a “Dr Who” episode and then listened to John Williamson after I had written up my paper diary (which I’ve now transcribed). It was some time later when the sign came on the board to board Train No. 1. (If you’re wondering, I travelled at that time to avoid crowds but before it was dark and also to avoid predatory taxi drivers.)
I went out and chatted to two (academic) chemists from Florida for a few moments before the personnel were out to check our boarding details. I was in Car 9 Berth 15 (and pleasantly found I had no companion) and found it to be a comfortable room to the standard of Australian trains (except no shower) and with aircraft-style toilets at the end of the carriage. This augers well as my next train is also a No. 1, but bound for Vladivostok (on Tuesday evening, at 2215). I quickly got the bed down and changed for sleeping, then was interrupted to ask what I wanted for breakfast (option 3, as the first two had fish and the fourth was vegetarian). After that it was to sleep, with a quiet but slightly rocking ride.