10 September

Today, my first day aboard a cruising ship (okay, a river cruiser, but it is on the water, it is more than overnight and we are going to travel nearly 700 km as the crow flies and a lot more by water), I woke at 0615 and promptly went on to snooze mode until 0630 – as breakfast was only one floor and twenty steps away and I didn’t have to pack a suitcase and leave it outside the door before breakfast.
Breakfast was a very good spread, including a range of fresh and prepared cereals, breads (fresh and toasted – YEAH!), meats, cheese, hot foods and of course juices and hot tea and coffee. I had breakfast with one who I had dinner with the night before, Cindy.
We chatted and went through some speculation as to the progress of the day, then headed off to prepare for a great adventure, as neither of us (and few of the others on the ship) had been to Russia before.
At 0815 a group of us were ready, out at the bus and, as soon as we found out which bus, boarded it ready to go. Cindy sat in the sea opposite, with Leonie and Amy behind. There was nothing like a full busload so we could, in general, occupy a double seat each. Our guide, Anastasia, was introduced by Katya, our boat guide and mentor. And so, at 0840, we set off.
We travelled into Moscow city via the St Petersburg-Moscow Highway. Our progress was generally slow, but moving, which didn’t worry most of us as we were sightseeing, the weather was fine and quite a few were taking photographs.
We arrived in at the Kremlin and were given our instructions about what we had to leave on the bus and what we could take. In general, we could carry what we needed (or may need, if the weather turned inclement) and then we had to queue to enter via the metal detectors. At this stage, some of the party had to find and use toilets, so I was left holding our number (my number was well and truly up) until Anastasia returned with the rest of the party.
We then entered. Despite all we had heard and seen, the police at the entry were very friendly and the guards on the metal detectors were quite jovial. After this, the actual introduction to the Kremlin commenced.
We entered via the Kutafya Tower and into the Kremlin proper via a ramp which is over what was the Neglinnaya River and is now the Alexandrovsky Gardens. Once through the Trinity Gate Tower, we were officially in the Kremlin. Although the government buildings are large and imposing, the Assumption Cathedral, the Ivan the Great Bell Tower, the Tsar Cannon and Bell and the Great Kremlin palace were the sights which really made me stop and look. We got the story and history of the churches and the Kremlin (summarised as being the original source of the settlement, fortified along the present lines, then becoming the centre as Moscow developed as the capital and still being the “spiritual” capital even when the capital was moved to St Petersburg. After Soviet governments came, it again became the centre of government and the country) and then had a look at he icons in Annunciation Cathedral. These were wonderful (no pictures allowed) but the singing by the four-man choir was stunning. I couldn’t resist a CD of them singing, so I got an autographed copy.
Memo to self: most things are priced in USD, € and roubles. The best price seems to be in €, so next time (?) make sure I have plenty of € with me.
After a fairly good look around, we left to get back on the bus, after being surrounded by many sellers of books on Moscow and sets of postcards. Prices were reasonable, but there wasn’t that much I was after. However I did note that there is a Metro station right near the public entrance to the Kremlin, at the library (for further visits).
Once back on the bus we headed off for the Novodevichy Convent. Here, although admission was part of the tour, there was another 80 roubles to take photos. From my now limited experience, this seems to be as good a source of income as the entry fees, if not better. We had a good look around, but the summer church was already closed and in the winter church we were only permitted in the vestibule (and weren’t supposed to take photos of the church, but I didn’t find out until too late).
We went around further and entered the chamber that Sofia, sister of Peter the Great, was exiled in. Here we were treated to another choir, whose choral work for us included the Volga Boat song. The singing was really good but, to my ear, not quite the equal of the earlier choir.
We left there and drove along beside the New Maiden Cemetery, which we were unable to visit and to which the tour for the afternoon had been cancelled.
After this the bus headed back to the ship, with further points of interest drawn to our attention. We arrived back at 1400, just as lunch was being served. Over lunch Cindy and I resolved to try to visit the cemetery by public transport, after getting money (me, from the ATM) and shopping for a few things.
By just after 1500 we walked along to the ATM and the supermarket. My confidence in the buses we were using suddenly plummeted as we saw two men replacing the brake shoes on a bus by the side of the entrance road to the North River Docks.
At the ATM, the machine wouldn’t allow me to get any money (transaction declined by your bank), but I believe it was because I was using a debit card rather than a credit card. However, I held out hope for the future. In the supermarket, things looked up. Although Cindy couldn’t get batteries, vodka and bottled water were well priced. I managed to find tea bags, but couldn’t find cube sugar (both of which I am after for the trains – I can now drink black tea, but only with sugar –I’ll see what havoc it plays with my sugar levels later). Back to the ship with these (note: brakes still being replaced on bus with 068 as the numerals in the plate), dropped them off and we were off, heading to the Metro Station. Along the way (at the entrance actually) Cindy was able to find batteries and then we entered the Metro Station.
Problem one: ticket machines out of order, so had to queue. Problem two; long queues, but at least they were moving quickly. Problem three; after having thirty roubles handy for a two trip ticket, at the last minute I noticed 19 appearing somewhere, so quickly had to get another ten rouble note out. At the window I indicated two (two fingers up – NOT the RUDE fingers, just in case the Russian sensibilities are the same as ours) and handed over the notes. I got the ticket printed for two trips and got two roubles change, so Cindy had no problem (just did the same and the ticket seller did the same). Then down to the station and only one side had a list of names, so we took the train on that side (this station is the last on the line). A quick referral to the metro map and we were able to work out the station to get out at to change to the Red Line. It was a matter of following the signs in the correct colour and, voila, we were on the right platform. By looking at the last name in the list we chose the correct direction, caught a train (only two minutes gaps between trains) and then got off at the correct station. In the plaza area, after getting our bearings, I espied a sign indicating the convent – so we headed off in that direction. Down the street the convent was visible, so after taking further bearings we turned off and headed straight to the cemetery. The correct gate was found and … the cemetery closed at 1700! The guard pointed it out to us even though in the Lonely Planet guide book on Moscow said it closed at 1800.
Dejected, unwanted and feeling in a grave mood, we headed back to the Metro Station. Along the way we came across a person who nearly stumbled in the gutter while talking on his mobile. He had a brown bag which hit the gutter at one point and suddenly brown foaming liquid poured out. He was totally drunk and had just smashed a bottle of beer in the bag. Despite warning him, he was too far gone to understand. We soldiered on and caught the train(s) back to the North River Port without any hassle at all.
I had been sure to make sure I got back before 1815 to catch the tour bus for the evening, so went by the parked buses to check if they were already loaded. It was raining and. Although there was a guide with one, there wasn’t with any other. I went onto the ship (ours was in the outboard position at this time, ready for departure tomorrow) to drop my books off at the cabin and found Katya there, telling me the bus was ready to go. Apparently the bus had gone down to another ship to pick up passengers and that was why I hadn’t seen it. I quickly boarded the bus, found the only vacant seat (next to a lady from Billings, Montana) and the bus was off to the Russian Folk Dancing show.
Now at this stage, dear reader, let me tell you a secret. Things which had run smoothly to this point, ceased to run smoothly.
The bus drove off, up to the main road (and past the bus still having its brakes repaired) and then into the traffic. At this time (1820), all seemed well – for about one minute, for as soon as we entered the main road the traffic stopped. It took many minutes before we reached an off ramp a few kilometres further on, and once on the ramp we stopped. After about twenty minutes we had got to the entrance to the other road. Here a lot of entertainment ensued, with most passengers on the left side looking down at cars which almost disappeared between the bus and other traffic. After another twenty minutes we were on the road but going nowhere quickly. Now, at just after 1900, it looked as though we may be late to the theatre, but everyone was hoping it was an accident or diversion which was slowing us down. But, alas, it was jus the Moscow traffic, compounded by the wet weather. Time marched on, but our bus didn’t. People became concerned that we might miss the 1930 start, but then we were told, no, it starts at 2000. Now as 2000 approached, came and departed, concerns were being heightened.
As anyone in control of people will tell you, they must be kept busy and happy. Otherwise, two things can happen – divine discontent, which will lead everyone on to unsurpassed heights, or rebellion, as Bligh (on the Bounty), Captain Quigg (on the Caine) and the tour guide on our bus found out. It started with one asking, well, how far are we away, when will we get there and when did the show actually start. The answers: we are not too far away, but because of the traffic it is not clear when we will arrive, the show starts at 2000 (Easter is not the only moveable feast) and the agents were wondering where we, and the other buses, were. Unfortunately this served only to add fuel to the fire as it seemed we knew less than before. The driver turned off into a side street and got a clear run … for about two hundred metres! Then the traffic jam resumed. By now camps were forming and splinter groups were being created. Some wanted to turn around and go back, as we would miss quite a bit. Others wanted to go on, but wanted more information. My fellow travellers wanted to know would we be back in time for our evening meal, scheduled for 2200. The next piece of information floored us – those from the other ship had already had tea and weren’t concerned about their evening meal. The solidarity group which had formed a few moments before suddenly shattered.
Without Henry Kissinger, negotiations went roughly. The passengers were now revolting (but some were still nice) and wanted more information and then to make a definitive decision. After a few mobile phone calls, an offer was made – keep going, and we should get to see half the show, and we would get a fifty per cent refund. This was not made loudly or clearly enough for those at the back to hear, so now other groups were appearing and wanting other solutions. After a short time when it looked as though the bus may be hijacked and driven back to the ship, the offer was repeated more clearly and then only two camps existed; go back now and get the whole price returned or go on and get half back. A head count was made and seventeen out of forty-one wanted to go on, so our guide, evidently not a mathematics graduate, said as more wanted to go on, we would. By the time people realised she wasn’t correct (I didn’t want to buy in as the whole thing was, to quote another passenger, a “great adventure”), we were at the venue. The bus stopped and we then had to walk up. Unfortunately the guide hadn’t told us where to enter, so with our heads down to avoid the driving rain, we missed the entrance and had to walk back. At 2055, we entered the theatre. No, to be more specific, seven of us entered the theatre and the rest were forcibly held back and then directed through another entrance.
The performance was stunning. The costumes were very good, the projected backgrounds were great, but the dancing was unbelievable. Spinning, dancing, kicking and rising and falling – all at the same time. At 2145 it finished.
However, our little epic had not. One of our number rushed outside to board the bus, only to find that the bus wasn’t there, but a torrential downpour was. A few minutes later she was back inside, wringing her shawl out on the floor. She was not pleased!
By 2200 we walked down to the bus. In an anticlimax, we started off into a traffic jam which cleared within a minute. We were back at the ship by 2245. The first question was, will we get a meal. And, all credit to the ship staff, the answer was yes. Our steward, Vladimir, even fixed up a special table for all of us who returned with mutiny or dissatisfaction on our minds.
The meal proved an anti-climax as we swapped tales and finally left the dining room at 0010. I decided I would, for one day, wait until later to write up my diary. After an epic day in many respects, I went to bed and to sleep.