3 October

I got up at 0600 to be ready for my pickup for a long day. I got to breakfast just after 0700 and for a time was on my own. However I was soon joined by the German mother and her daughter. In the meantime I had found “Temple”, by Matthew Riley (an Australian author) on the bookshelf in the breakfast room/dining room (I’ll get a picture next time). In a few minutes the father with the two boys who speak French had arrived. Very soon after an Englishman from London, who is meeting his girlfriend from Sydney today arrived and joined me at my table for his breakfast. He recognised the Vegemite! Within a few minutes two American women who live in China and are interested in the Trans-Siberian arrived, overheard me talking about it and questioned me (before I left – but then I had to run!) before I returned to my room to get ready for the day.
As soon as I had finished I met Eugene in the lobby and we went out to where the driver had parked just down the alley (in the Hutong parking is scarce) and we soon headed out of Beijing. Unfortunately so did many others from Beijing, and so the traffic was heavy and slow. There were a few accidents on the freeways (nose to tail, not too serious) and a lot of donkey friends meeting (these are people who meet over the Internet and then arrange to meet in their cars on a freeway, so park in emergency lanes and over chevroned merge lane areas).
On the way we called into a Cloisonne factory. Here copper objects such as urns, vases and unique shapes are covered with patterns of thin copper strip (like filigree) which is glued on – all done by hand by women (apparently men don’t have the patience). Then the spaces are filled with a layer of enamel and the object fired. Then enamel is applied again (up to six times) and firing is done again (up to six times). Then, if the object is round, it is polished by rough stone, fine stone and charcoal to give a fine smooth enamelled surface. Once again I got caught and bought a pig (some of you will know Kerry is minding my place for me and she collects pigs) and some owls (for some of my ex-students and one or two others).
Then we went to the Great Wall at Jinshanling. Along the way the traffic was very heavy and there were quite a few accidents – mind you, seeing how some of the people drive (I can’t call them drivers) I was surprised there weren’t more. All of this slowed us down, so we didn’t arrive at the restaurant for lunch there until 1230. After that Eugene and I walked to the Wall (the hard part) and then along part of it. I decided to take the cable car back to get a different view – many tourists took it up and back, so didn’t fall into the “Wall Hero” class. Here there was a funny story.
At the entrance there were many vendors. Being strong (especially as I had now exceeded my week souvenir spending in two days) I said “no”, but one decided to accompany us in the hope of a sale. She didn’t waste the time as she collected plastic bottles along the way. When we were on the wall she threw in a few comments and at one stage, when she thought I would slip (am I starting to look old and frail – because only a few years ago I was supporting mum the same way and was supporting students until then end of the year before last?) she grabbed my arm and held me. I relented and purchased a souvenir book of the wall. When we were leaving the exit (she was back down by then), she rushed after Eugene and I and gave us each a bottle of coke. However, as I said, now some poor vendor at X’ian will most likely miss out.
We then headed back to Beijing, but were held up with a few more accidents and one policeman booking a truck and blocking a large part of the road. Not to be outdone, the people heading back to Beijing managed to turn a “one lane each way” road into a “four lane in and half a lane out” road!
Back in Beijing I was dropped off to see “The Kung Fu Story” – this was a mixture of story-telling, dancing, Kung Fu action and some martial arts action. It was thrilling and seventy-five minutes went in a flash.
Then I was picked up again and taken to a restaurant where I had Peking Duck for tea. I can’t believe what was served up – glass of red wine, Chinese tea, bowl of steamed rice, plate of sliced beef and onion, plate of sliced spiced pork, assorted vegetables in a bird’s nest of fine potato chips on a lettuce leaf, Peking duck (sliced) with pancakes, soya sauce and spring onions, a plate of some green vegetable (which I couldn’t even taste because there was no room left) and sliced watermelon. If Chinese all eat this much at a meal, then I’ve seen the only slim Chinese people and the rest must be HUGE!
I managed to get back to the car (but wasn’t sure I would fit into it) and then got back to the hotel by 2000. I spoke to the girl at reception about checking out early and I will leave my suitcase here (just take the backpack with two days clothes to X’ian) and try to get my jacket and trousers laundered so they will be clean when I return. I hope the weather is warm (or at least not cold) at X’ian.
Then it was the normal procedure, but this evening I did clean my boots. Alas, the washing I had left hanging had not dried (I hope it will overnight). So now it is off to bed and be ready to leave the hotel at 0540 tomorrow to fly to X’ian.