20 October

Today – the first real day of the tour (despite the booklet and the literature describing it as Day 2) and I was up, early (but not too bright) at 0600. I packed everything in the suitcase and most of the pack (got the wakeup call, which was amazing!), then showered and dressed.
The suitcase was left outside the door and I went down for breakfast (with Vegemite and laptop). Despite being there at 0700, there were already quite a few there (so I will try for 0645 tomorrow, rather than being on time, as I can post this blog and check emails anyway), so I had to sit at a large table (with no-one else) to ensure I could get an Internet WiFi signal.
I had breakfast and received a few emails (and sent out a few, replies to ones sent only a few minutes earlier) and was back to Room 116 at 0740. It was finish my preparations, pack the pack completely and scan the room for things left behind. What amazed me was that I had left a pin and tip on the bed (which I normally don’t do, but each morning my pyjamas have been buttoned and folded) and it had gone! At 0750 I went slowly down to the bus and found most had already got on. After looking at the available seats, I decided on one of two spare at the back and I would take pot luck with whoever took the other. In the end, it was Sue, who will also be on the tour in Egypt.
The bus set off at just after 0800, along the south side of the Golden Horn. I got to see a few of the sights I had seen from the sightseeing bus, including the motorbike on an elevated stand at the Police Motor Headquarters. The traffic was quite heavy, as it was Monday and a normal working morning and we were in peak hour traffic.
As we left the city we got to see different suburbs and different areas, some with only low, middle or upper class housing, while some areas had all together. Low class housing was more predominant around the industrial suburbs, even though some of them were being rebuilt.
After a while we turned southward, then after reaching the coast of the sea of Marmara we followed it along the northern edge, past what had been little villages and what were now retreats for foreigners (because of relatively low prices) and finally, by lunchtime, to the settlement of Gallipoli.
Here we stopped for lunch, but Sue and I went for a walk around the town. There was a neat little fishing harbour where the restaurant was, then commercial and retail streets in the immediate area. Sue found out that the bricks used for building here are very light. It was fun seeing the goods on sale and the prices and variety. In some places they were unique, like sheep’s heads (raw or cooked), while in others there were what you would see in any large store in Australia (even the same brand, but with different electrical cords). There were a large number of students in uniform walking the streets, and we tried to find out from three boys whether they were going home to (or coming back from) lunch or if they had finished for the day. Neither of us understood the other, so it remained a mystery for the next half hour (only solved because we passed a school with students in the yard on our way out of town). On our way back to the bus, I saw a photogenic dog – but was amazed when it roused on hearing the shutter and then went back to sleep when it realised I wasn’t coming over. There was also a back harbour, with smaller and poorer boats than the front harbour. A horse and cart, with the driver selling vegetables, had only moved about twenty metres in the time we had walked up and down.
Just before we got to the bus, I saw a European semi-trailer, so I couldn’t resist getting a photo. They only have six wheels on the trailer (three singles each side, unlike Australian with three doubles each side) and only one rear axle on the prime mover (unlike Australian with tandem axles).
We set off for Gallipoli (the peninsula) and arrived there in a short time. It is a very good showpiece for having either rails or raised roadways, with limited transport (perhaps shuttles), to minimise the damage while maximising access. However, as things are the way they are, we drove in by bus and stopped at Anzac Cove and a short look around, then up to Lone Pine and again a short look around. Then, but for a different reason, we went to the Turkish memorial for their 57th Brigade and also stopped there.

I had wondered what it would be like at Gallipoli, understanding its significance in our national psyche, but without any personal involvement (unlike the Somme, where my grandfather fought and won a medal). I felt moved and saddened while there, but did not experience the total depth of emotion that I did at the Somme. Perhaps after some more reading, or visiting by myself (though I doubt I will ever make it back), it will move me more. I do think that the depth of emotion is governed by the personal links to the area, and if I ever find a relative was involved there, then I may feel differently. However, like in France and Belgium, I felt no animosity towards soldiers from the other side, but I did feel despair that politicians used (and continue to use) ordinary people, their lives and emotions, to further their own ends.


We left and headed towards the Dardenelles and caught a ferry over to Canakkale. On the ferry we were next to a bus of forty children and four teachers on a week-long excursion. Some of our group chatted to some of the children while we were crossing. There were a number of naval vessels which were visible during our crossing.
After a fair drive out of the town, we arrived at Tusan and our hotel. We were given our room keys, I investigated WiFi (definitely in the lobby, perhaps in the room) and then I went to my room (118). I set batteries to charge and set up the laptop – no WiFi signal. I processed the photos, then went to the lobby, couldn’t get a signal and mentioned to the clerk and, within a minute, signal. I started uploading the photos, checked the email and then wandered to see where the signal was – only in the lobby. I stayed there until I had finished (during which time two other tour buses came in), showed the movie of the Xi’an fountain show to some, then went in and had tea.
I sat with Robert (from Adelaide) and Sue and Lynn (from Sydney). Tea was a vegetable course, noodle soup, chicken with salad, bread, and finally ice cream. We all had a good talk about things over tea and then I showed them some of the photos from today (they seem to have come out okay), some from Istanbul, China and my favourite, Bryce Canyon. I’m pleased they seem to share my love of it.
After that it was back to my room (where I discovered there IS a plug for the bath/sink – but I can’t really do any washing tonight) where I changed for the night, wrote my blog and finally started to get ready for bed by about 1010. I aim to be up before 0600 tomorrow.