Today it was up at 0630, prepare, then head off for breakfast. But then I found the time had changed – 0730 to 1030. So it was read and wait and then at 0725 I went in and started.
This morning’s campanions were: a woman from San Francisco, married to a man from Beijing, who was meeting the in-laws for the first time; a man from Los Angeles, originally from Iran, who was here on his two week vacation, and was returning home to get married (he had booked all this before he met his wife-to-be) and three from Germany (a girl from Stuttgart and a couple from Hamburg. With all the conversations, time flew fast at breakfast.
On the way back to my room I ordered a taxi for tomorrow morning (0610) to take me to Beijing station. I catch the Trans-Mongolian at 0745 and have to be there at least an hour before boarding time (I hope the train is!). I gathered my materials for today (cap and camera – no jacket as it is cool but will warm up during the day) and went back to the lobby – and saw Eugene and the driver chatting outside. Into the car (a VW Santana 3000, black) and off.
We headed out of Dengcao Hutong in a westerly direction, went past Tianamen Square and continued out through the suburbs. Along the way we passed what I presume was a military college, complete with what looked like a gunboat with cruise missiles mounted on the deck next to the parade area.
We took a long time to clear the suburbs (partly because the traffic was slow and thick, partly because there are so many of them) and were onto country roads, through smaller settlements, by 1000. Even so, because of slow agricultural vehicles and bicycles (and tricycles) on the road, we didn’t arrive at our destination until 1130.
Chuandixiacun (or Cuan Di Xia, as it is called on the local signs) was a small settlement of about one hundred people and went into decline, presumably in or soon after the 1940s. Some villagers continued to live there and it regained prominence as a setting for a traditional Chinese movie made not too long ago. Since then the village has been a tourist centre, with entry fees charged, villagers restoring buildings and the town made accessible for tourists (especially Chinese tourists, who today were there by the coachload but there were only a few Western tourists.
As well as seeing parts of the town and visiting old (partly restored) buildings, it was possible to see a temple, a farm and have lunch in a village inn. Just north of the town, the road cuts through a washaway, so the sides nearly meet over the road. Eugene and I walked up there (about a kilometre from the town) and then we all had lunch when we walked back. Although I was full after mine, I found that Chinese traditional cuisine is not too my liking. We had native wild vegetables (very hot to my taste), dried pumpkin, pork and another green vegetable (too much flavour in the pumpkin – I imagine it was marinated in some way before being dried and that flavour came out when it was mixed and boiled with the others), boiled rice (yes, OK) and corn cakes (very sweet). All this was washed down with Chinese tea (about three cups – I could get used to it, but I prefer what I am used to and know). By about 1430 we headed off back to Beijing and arrived at the hotel about 1730.
I said goodbye to my driver and Eugene (in the photo the driver has a jacket on), gave the driver a kangaroo pin (I had already given Eugene one) and went inside. I started downloading the photos and then went to the post office to get some postcard stamps. I posted one to my aunt in Perth and one to an ex-student (who was from China).
Then it was back, process the photos, check the washing (still not dry!!), upload the photos, write this blog, have a bit of a rest, then order my packing for the train (except for the wet stuff) and generally prepare for five nights on the train. I am scheduled to arrive in Moscow at 1428 on Monday 13 October and I’m staying at the Cosmos Hotel for two nights. I hope I can get Internet access there, otherwise I will have to keep my fingers crossed for the ASKOC hotel in Istanbul, where I stay from 13 October until I start my tour of Turkey with COSMOS on Sunday 19 October.
If I can’t get Internet access, I’ll try to send out emails and just have to wait to post photos and blogs.
Farewell for six nights – and to my photo audience, don’t desert me just because I’m not posting each day!
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Monday, October 6, 2008
6 October
This morning I woke at dawn (about 0615) in Berth 12 in Car 8 on the Z20 train from Xi’an. We were somewhere outside Beijing and the suburbs came into view not long after I had got up and dressed (no shower in the cabin and I really didn’t have time to look elsewhere). My cabin-mate got up not long after and we were both ready when the train pulled into Beijing at 0714. When I got out I was just about to message Eugene when he appeared behind me.
Getting out of the station was slow as all tickets (train and platform) were being checked, This is the first station where I have seen this on exiting (in the past twenty years). We walked to were the car and driver were, past a small poodle in jeans, T-shirt and red boots. Fortunately the jeans had cutouts so the dog could do what dogs do. Once in the car I got my train ticket for Wednesday (I will have to order a taxi, so I have to make sure I keep at least 50 Yuan in cash). Then Eugene popped out at a hotel to do his guide duties today and the driver dropped me back at my hotel (Beijing Sihe Hotel, in a Hutong). My luggage and laundry were waiting for me and I could go straight to my (new) room, unpack, connect the laptop and upload photos and blogs, while also doing washing and having a shower (after cleaning my boots – for some reason they are getting very dusty in China). The air was a lot clearer, apparently due to rain last night.
So washed and in clean clothes, I set out for the post office and sent some books back home (on the Forbidden City and the Great Wall). Then back at the hotel I couldn’t find the map I had been using, and the new one I got wasn’t as clear. I decided I would see the Temple of Peace and see how I went after that.
I walked down there, partly through another hutong, and decided I would walk back through the rest. When I got to the Temple of Peace (in reality a park with temples inside) I had the choice of a 15Y ticket or a 35 Y ticket (through). Knowing things never get cheaper, I got the through ticket and went in.
The park (originally part of the area for the emperor – a hunting park) is very large and very well kept. The temples inside have been well renovated and are colourful and in good condition. Then I found that my ticket got me into all three –otherwise I would have had to pay 20 Y for each (a total of 75 Y)!
I had quite a few people who smiled back as I walked around. One was an American couple from New York (retired teachers) and he was tickled by my anecdote from New York. I had a good look inside each area and, to my surprise, found it was 1630 and I still had more to go.
When I finally called it a day inside, it was close to 1700. I walked out and declined the offer of a rickshaw ride (although perhaps I should have just had a short one), the walked back through a hutong just opposite. Like where I am, it was very interesting to see how the people were living and how they had small markets set up (but because it wasn’t dark yet, the hot food vendors weren’t out in force).
Perhaps I shouldn’t have had the brochure for the Temple of Peace showing out in Chinese, as one gentleman on a bicycle stopped me and told me I was going the wrong way. It took a bit of convincing on my part to let him know I was returning from there, not going there, and I knew where I was going. Then I got another young Chinese couple who wanted to talk, once they found I was from Australia, but at this stage I was tired (and so were my feet) and all I wanted to do was go back to the hotel and rest (and write things up). I apologised politely and headed back to the hotel.
Once back I took my boots off (don’t know if I will get them back on again tonight), checked the state of my washing (nothing dry!), put the batteries in to charge, processed the pictures, wrote my blog and then went “phew!”
I want to get to bed early tonight as I have a long day in the country tomorrow, then catch the train early on Wednesday morning. I don’t know how I will get on with posting anything from tomorrow night (okay) until I get back into Russia (I assume the hotel I’m staying at in Moscow will have Internet, but if I don’t post anything Wednesday week, then you’ll know it hasn’t. After that I’ll be in Istanbul for four days and I don’t know about there. Then there is the tour of Turkey, and I assume some of the hotels will have Internet. Once I’m in Egypt I really have no idea, so there may be an hiatus until I return home.
My only problem with that is my fickle fans on Flickr desert me if I don’t continually post photos. I suppose I will just have to get used to low numbers looking and then a flood once I post.
Otherwise, apart from aching feet, everything is well – the temperature today was cool in the morning and warm in the afternoon, but cool again after dusk.
Getting out of the station was slow as all tickets (train and platform) were being checked, This is the first station where I have seen this on exiting (in the past twenty years). We walked to were the car and driver were, past a small poodle in jeans, T-shirt and red boots. Fortunately the jeans had cutouts so the dog could do what dogs do. Once in the car I got my train ticket for Wednesday (I will have to order a taxi, so I have to make sure I keep at least 50 Yuan in cash). Then Eugene popped out at a hotel to do his guide duties today and the driver dropped me back at my hotel (Beijing Sihe Hotel, in a Hutong). My luggage and laundry were waiting for me and I could go straight to my (new) room, unpack, connect the laptop and upload photos and blogs, while also doing washing and having a shower (after cleaning my boots – for some reason they are getting very dusty in China). The air was a lot clearer, apparently due to rain last night.
So washed and in clean clothes, I set out for the post office and sent some books back home (on the Forbidden City and the Great Wall). Then back at the hotel I couldn’t find the map I had been using, and the new one I got wasn’t as clear. I decided I would see the Temple of Peace and see how I went after that.
I walked down there, partly through another hutong, and decided I would walk back through the rest. When I got to the Temple of Peace (in reality a park with temples inside) I had the choice of a 15Y ticket or a 35 Y ticket (through). Knowing things never get cheaper, I got the through ticket and went in.
The park (originally part of the area for the emperor – a hunting park) is very large and very well kept. The temples inside have been well renovated and are colourful and in good condition. Then I found that my ticket got me into all three –otherwise I would have had to pay 20 Y for each (a total of 75 Y)!
I had quite a few people who smiled back as I walked around. One was an American couple from New York (retired teachers) and he was tickled by my anecdote from New York. I had a good look inside each area and, to my surprise, found it was 1630 and I still had more to go.
When I finally called it a day inside, it was close to 1700. I walked out and declined the offer of a rickshaw ride (although perhaps I should have just had a short one), the walked back through a hutong just opposite. Like where I am, it was very interesting to see how the people were living and how they had small markets set up (but because it wasn’t dark yet, the hot food vendors weren’t out in force).
Perhaps I shouldn’t have had the brochure for the Temple of Peace showing out in Chinese, as one gentleman on a bicycle stopped me and told me I was going the wrong way. It took a bit of convincing on my part to let him know I was returning from there, not going there, and I knew where I was going. Then I got another young Chinese couple who wanted to talk, once they found I was from Australia, but at this stage I was tired (and so were my feet) and all I wanted to do was go back to the hotel and rest (and write things up). I apologised politely and headed back to the hotel.
Once back I took my boots off (don’t know if I will get them back on again tonight), checked the state of my washing (nothing dry!), put the batteries in to charge, processed the pictures, wrote my blog and then went “phew!”
I want to get to bed early tonight as I have a long day in the country tomorrow, then catch the train early on Wednesday morning. I don’t know how I will get on with posting anything from tomorrow night (okay) until I get back into Russia (I assume the hotel I’m staying at in Moscow will have Internet, but if I don’t post anything Wednesday week, then you’ll know it hasn’t. After that I’ll be in Istanbul for four days and I don’t know about there. Then there is the tour of Turkey, and I assume some of the hotels will have Internet. Once I’m in Egypt I really have no idea, so there may be an hiatus until I return home.
My only problem with that is my fickle fans on Flickr desert me if I don’t continually post photos. I suppose I will just have to get used to low numbers looking and then a flood once I post.
Otherwise, apart from aching feet, everything is well – the temperature today was cool in the morning and warm in the afternoon, but cool again after dusk.
Sunday, October 5, 2008
5 October
Yet another very interesting day.
After setting the alarm for 0630, I finally got up after 0700 and was down for breakfast about 0745. Here the table I chose to sit at was occupied by a couple from near Stoke-on-Trent, a place I visited when in England in 1980 (there is a canal museum near there). We chatted about travel (mainly with them interrogating me firstly about my trip and then what to see in Australia – because of the detailed description I gave them, they thought I must be a travel writer) and then they left. Another family came in and sat at the next table (with Australian accents) and they were from Yackandandah – the husband thought he recognised me but we couldn’t find any points in common.
I left ant then packed slowly, making sure I missed nothing and not heading out too early (mistake!). After clearing the room I went down and checked out, leaving the laptop, backpack and camera bag at the desk, so I wouldn’t have to carry them (good move) – I also left the vest with all the additional material as well (very good move!).
I headed out and found an ATM very close to the hotel and got the money out that I needed. Then I headed north along a main road, looking at all around me (so there is the odd photo as I walked along). The information signs didn’t help at all, so it wasn’t until I crossed the moat that I was sure where I was. Then I looked for landmarks but couldn’t see any, so headed in the direction I knew I should be going through alleys. Here some parents sitting outside sent their daughter up to say hello to me, she asked my name and told me hers was Gogo. There must be something about repeating names of Chinese for Europeans to understand as my guide here is Lulu. So after a bit of laughter and gesticulation I was off. At the corner, a mother with a young child (bare-bottomed, as seems to be the custom) tried to get him to wave to me, but he went all shy and turned his face away.
My path then took me along other small streets where people were out in force (it’s Sunday morning, but of little significance to them) and I eventually ended up first in the fruit and veg market, then the meat market and finally the fish market. The number of crab escapees was enormous, as flattened bodies on the pathway attested. I ended up coming out of there into a park, where I ran into a New Zealand couple (just about to fly out) who topped my stories by being an English assignment for a whole class on the beachside. They headed off and so did I, eventually finding my way to the Bell Tower and going up to have a look at it, the display inside and the vie from each level. Then I headed off to the Drum Tower, where again I got grabbed to be photographed with a girl by her boyfriend. I returned this by getting the three of them together. Then I headed diagonally opposite to have some lunch (about 1500 by now) and then headed south. I found my way to the Little Wild Goose Pagoda, which is inside a museum, so I had to enter the museum grounds to get there. Then there were 15 flights of steps (which fortunately got fewer the higher I went) but it was still hot work. By the time I finished there, it was 1630, I was very warm and I walked back to the hotel. I relied on the GPS but was very tempted to get a motorbike taxi back – but seeing life around me was too good to miss out on.
I found myself back in the Square, but while climbing the stairs out of the underpass an young couple interrogated me on how old I was, and then the boy offered me a cigarette, which naturally I declined. By this time I was too out of breath anyway. Then in the park, while walking past the water fountain area (they only run for the displays) I got grabbed by another lot (three boys this time) to pose with each. I got back to the hotel by 1800, well before the 1830 rendezvous time. By the time I had been to the toilet (for some reason, squats don’t appeal to me), got my laptop and was on the way to getting the rest, Lulu had arrived (with my train ticket). Within a few minutes we were off, but because we were early, we detoured via a South Lake park (not South Park Lake – no Kenny here!) and saw the lake and the market around it – mainly stones and gems. Then it was off to the station, saying goodbye to the driver at the car and Lulu at the entry to the “soft lounge”. Inside there, almost immediately a tour guide with a group said the train was boarding. After getting a drink I headed off to Carriage 1, as on the ticket. No, said the attendant, you must go to Carriage 15. Down to the other end of the train I dutifully went, to the amazement of the train supervisor who had sent me to the front. No, said the attendant, you must go to Carriage 7. By this time the eyes on the supervisor were out on stalks. I got to Carriage 7 – yes, said the attendant, you are in Carriage 8! Down I went to Berth 1 and went to settle in, only to find the woman who I would have been sharing with had a husband who was down in Berth 12. I swapped with him, carried all my stuff down (including the power board charging the camera batteries). I settled in there, wondering who would be my companion for the night. I had a brief chat with someone who worked for a US company in Xi’an and Beijing, and then along came a fellow who settled into Berth 11. He lives in Xi’an and is off to Beijing, but speaks no English. After I had copied and processed my photos for today, I showed him the video I had made last night (I can’t post that, it’s too large, so that will most likely come on a Christmas DVD) and then some pictures of Australia. After that, he had his dinner, I wrote my blog, he watched TV (there are TVs for each berth, plus a full-sized aircraft-type toilet in each double compartment (haven’t seen a shower yet), I charged the laptop and swapped the batteries and then changed for bed. I put the electrical equipment away before I went to bed (too busy in the morning otherwise).
After setting the alarm for 0630, I finally got up after 0700 and was down for breakfast about 0745. Here the table I chose to sit at was occupied by a couple from near Stoke-on-Trent, a place I visited when in England in 1980 (there is a canal museum near there). We chatted about travel (mainly with them interrogating me firstly about my trip and then what to see in Australia – because of the detailed description I gave them, they thought I must be a travel writer) and then they left. Another family came in and sat at the next table (with Australian accents) and they were from Yackandandah – the husband thought he recognised me but we couldn’t find any points in common.
I left ant then packed slowly, making sure I missed nothing and not heading out too early (mistake!). After clearing the room I went down and checked out, leaving the laptop, backpack and camera bag at the desk, so I wouldn’t have to carry them (good move) – I also left the vest with all the additional material as well (very good move!).
I headed out and found an ATM very close to the hotel and got the money out that I needed. Then I headed north along a main road, looking at all around me (so there is the odd photo as I walked along). The information signs didn’t help at all, so it wasn’t until I crossed the moat that I was sure where I was. Then I looked for landmarks but couldn’t see any, so headed in the direction I knew I should be going through alleys. Here some parents sitting outside sent their daughter up to say hello to me, she asked my name and told me hers was Gogo. There must be something about repeating names of Chinese for Europeans to understand as my guide here is Lulu. So after a bit of laughter and gesticulation I was off. At the corner, a mother with a young child (bare-bottomed, as seems to be the custom) tried to get him to wave to me, but he went all shy and turned his face away.
My path then took me along other small streets where people were out in force (it’s Sunday morning, but of little significance to them) and I eventually ended up first in the fruit and veg market, then the meat market and finally the fish market. The number of crab escapees was enormous, as flattened bodies on the pathway attested. I ended up coming out of there into a park, where I ran into a New Zealand couple (just about to fly out) who topped my stories by being an English assignment for a whole class on the beachside. They headed off and so did I, eventually finding my way to the Bell Tower and going up to have a look at it, the display inside and the vie from each level. Then I headed off to the Drum Tower, where again I got grabbed to be photographed with a girl by her boyfriend. I returned this by getting the three of them together. Then I headed diagonally opposite to have some lunch (about 1500 by now) and then headed south. I found my way to the Little Wild Goose Pagoda, which is inside a museum, so I had to enter the museum grounds to get there. Then there were 15 flights of steps (which fortunately got fewer the higher I went) but it was still hot work. By the time I finished there, it was 1630, I was very warm and I walked back to the hotel. I relied on the GPS but was very tempted to get a motorbike taxi back – but seeing life around me was too good to miss out on.
I found myself back in the Square, but while climbing the stairs out of the underpass an young couple interrogated me on how old I was, and then the boy offered me a cigarette, which naturally I declined. By this time I was too out of breath anyway. Then in the park, while walking past the water fountain area (they only run for the displays) I got grabbed by another lot (three boys this time) to pose with each. I got back to the hotel by 1800, well before the 1830 rendezvous time. By the time I had been to the toilet (for some reason, squats don’t appeal to me), got my laptop and was on the way to getting the rest, Lulu had arrived (with my train ticket). Within a few minutes we were off, but because we were early, we detoured via a South Lake park (not South Park Lake – no Kenny here!) and saw the lake and the market around it – mainly stones and gems. Then it was off to the station, saying goodbye to the driver at the car and Lulu at the entry to the “soft lounge”. Inside there, almost immediately a tour guide with a group said the train was boarding. After getting a drink I headed off to Carriage 1, as on the ticket. No, said the attendant, you must go to Carriage 15. Down to the other end of the train I dutifully went, to the amazement of the train supervisor who had sent me to the front. No, said the attendant, you must go to Carriage 7. By this time the eyes on the supervisor were out on stalks. I got to Carriage 7 – yes, said the attendant, you are in Carriage 8! Down I went to Berth 1 and went to settle in, only to find the woman who I would have been sharing with had a husband who was down in Berth 12. I swapped with him, carried all my stuff down (including the power board charging the camera batteries). I settled in there, wondering who would be my companion for the night. I had a brief chat with someone who worked for a US company in Xi’an and Beijing, and then along came a fellow who settled into Berth 11. He lives in Xi’an and is off to Beijing, but speaks no English. After I had copied and processed my photos for today, I showed him the video I had made last night (I can’t post that, it’s too large, so that will most likely come on a Christmas DVD) and then some pictures of Australia. After that, he had his dinner, I wrote my blog, he watched TV (there are TVs for each berth, plus a full-sized aircraft-type toilet in each double compartment (haven’t seen a shower yet), I charged the laptop and swapped the batteries and then changed for bed. I put the electrical equipment away before I went to bed (too busy in the morning otherwise).
4 October
This morning I was up at the early hour of 0445 and I quickly packed my suitcase (to stay at the hotel in Beijing) and my pack (to travel with me to Xi’an). Then I had my shower and, as I came out at 0530, the telephone rang. I missed it the first time but got it the second – the receptionist was sure my car had arrived. As it wasn’t due until 0540, I wasn’t concerned and proceeded on, dressing and then separating the clothes I was leaving in Beijing to be laundered (jacket and trousers, which have each lasted forty-three days and will, now I hope, last the next forty-three days until I am home). Then I got to reception and Eugene was there, so I left my case with the porter, my key and the clothes with the receptionist, picked up my breakfast and headed out.
We had a dream run to the airport and arrived well before 0630. I checked in within five minutes and took my leave of Eugene until he meets me at the station Monday morning. I went through security and set off the alarms, but was okayed after a screening with a wand and a pat-down. I went off and found the departure lounge (actually a departure lounge for a bus – presumably, as I found out later, the plane was far away from the terminal). I waited upstairs in the more comfortable area, had some of my breakfast and purchased a drink, and finally went down at 0745, just before the due time for boarding. Here I met the Phillips family from Oregon, and we chatted. Then after quite a time, we found the plane was delayed due to fog in Xi’an and we weren’t going anywhere. So we had a good and long chat, covering how to survive when lost in foreign places. Then I heard Australian accents and found an Australian family sitting down on the floor (also waiting for the Xi’an flight). The husband had worked as a chef during the Olympics and the family had now come over to see some of China before he returned home. We got served a box breakfast because of the delay, but some of the items belonged to the “It’s Inedible” TV special show.
Eventually we boarded the bus for the flight, at about 1010. We got to the plane by 1020 and, by the time another busload arrived, we finally took off at about 1040. We had a sometimes rough flight, but arrived safely in Xi’an at about 1215. Here I was straight out, because I had no checked luggage. I saw my name, pointed to it and me, and then meet Lulu at the exit. We went out to the car, but then had to find it (which took a few minutes). We went straight out to the Terra Cotta Warriors, because I had also had another breakfast on the plane and wasn’t hungry.
There I was able to look at the Pits (the warriors remain in the approximate area in which they were found, and excavation goes on) which are now inside buildings – protecting them and allowing controlled access. There were crowds there, but nowhere near as many as Beijing.
After I saw the excavation sites and a few other displays (including bronze chariots and Chinese playing soccer in a time BC, we headed off to the ancient village which was discovered during the survey for a power station. This is also now in a building and has an art store associated with it – where farmers, who learned from artists who worked on the farms during the Cultural Revolution, now display and sell their work. It was very different from traditional Chinese art.
Then I was driven to the hotel – which doesn’t have Internet access (although the laptop is picking up a WiFi signal here, but I think it’s too hard for the staff) and, after settling in, I went for a walk. Just as I left the hotel I was approached by a man who asked me where I was from (Australia) and he then told me I should be the “Australian Confucius”.
The hotel is in a park, which becomes a square. This has green areas, vending and entertainment areas, shops and fountains. I got some stuff for tea, found an ATM (I need some Chinese currency, but it was out of order) and then found out there was a fountain display (to music) at 2100. I waited around and chatted for a few minutes to a couple of Australians who were going to get something to eat before seeing the display. Then I got approached by a little girl who tried out her English on me – but this backfired on her, because she told me her parents were teachers, so I popped up and chatted with them until the display started. When they left, I gave them the photo site address so they could see themselves and what the display looked like to me.
The music was martial, traditional Chinese and then classical. The fountain spurts were in time and sympathy with the music, but the still shots don’t really convey the effect. I filmed the last piece, a waltz, as a short movie.
Then it was back to the hotel, process the photos, write this blog (while batteries were charging) and then to bed. No Internet posting tonight!
We had a dream run to the airport and arrived well before 0630. I checked in within five minutes and took my leave of Eugene until he meets me at the station Monday morning. I went through security and set off the alarms, but was okayed after a screening with a wand and a pat-down. I went off and found the departure lounge (actually a departure lounge for a bus – presumably, as I found out later, the plane was far away from the terminal). I waited upstairs in the more comfortable area, had some of my breakfast and purchased a drink, and finally went down at 0745, just before the due time for boarding. Here I met the Phillips family from Oregon, and we chatted. Then after quite a time, we found the plane was delayed due to fog in Xi’an and we weren’t going anywhere. So we had a good and long chat, covering how to survive when lost in foreign places. Then I heard Australian accents and found an Australian family sitting down on the floor (also waiting for the Xi’an flight). The husband had worked as a chef during the Olympics and the family had now come over to see some of China before he returned home. We got served a box breakfast because of the delay, but some of the items belonged to the “It’s Inedible” TV special show.
Eventually we boarded the bus for the flight, at about 1010. We got to the plane by 1020 and, by the time another busload arrived, we finally took off at about 1040. We had a sometimes rough flight, but arrived safely in Xi’an at about 1215. Here I was straight out, because I had no checked luggage. I saw my name, pointed to it and me, and then meet Lulu at the exit. We went out to the car, but then had to find it (which took a few minutes). We went straight out to the Terra Cotta Warriors, because I had also had another breakfast on the plane and wasn’t hungry.
There I was able to look at the Pits (the warriors remain in the approximate area in which they were found, and excavation goes on) which are now inside buildings – protecting them and allowing controlled access. There were crowds there, but nowhere near as many as Beijing.
After I saw the excavation sites and a few other displays (including bronze chariots and Chinese playing soccer in a time BC, we headed off to the ancient village which was discovered during the survey for a power station. This is also now in a building and has an art store associated with it – where farmers, who learned from artists who worked on the farms during the Cultural Revolution, now display and sell their work. It was very different from traditional Chinese art.
Then I was driven to the hotel – which doesn’t have Internet access (although the laptop is picking up a WiFi signal here, but I think it’s too hard for the staff) and, after settling in, I went for a walk. Just as I left the hotel I was approached by a man who asked me where I was from (Australia) and he then told me I should be the “Australian Confucius”.
The hotel is in a park, which becomes a square. This has green areas, vending and entertainment areas, shops and fountains. I got some stuff for tea, found an ATM (I need some Chinese currency, but it was out of order) and then found out there was a fountain display (to music) at 2100. I waited around and chatted for a few minutes to a couple of Australians who were going to get something to eat before seeing the display. Then I got approached by a little girl who tried out her English on me – but this backfired on her, because she told me her parents were teachers, so I popped up and chatted with them until the display started. When they left, I gave them the photo site address so they could see themselves and what the display looked like to me.
The music was martial, traditional Chinese and then classical. The fountain spurts were in time and sympathy with the music, but the still shots don’t really convey the effect. I filmed the last piece, a waltz, as a short movie.
Then it was back to the hotel, process the photos, write this blog (while batteries were charging) and then to bed. No Internet posting tonight!
Friday, October 3, 2008
3 October
I got up at 0600 to be ready for my pickup for a long day. I got to breakfast just after 0700 and for a time was on my own. However I was soon joined by the German mother and her daughter. In the meantime I had found “Temple”, by Matthew Riley (an Australian author) on the bookshelf in the breakfast room/dining room (I’ll get a picture next time). In a few minutes the father with the two boys who speak French had arrived. Very soon after an Englishman from London, who is meeting his girlfriend from Sydney today arrived and joined me at my table for his breakfast. He recognised the Vegemite! Within a few minutes two American women who live in China and are interested in the Trans-Siberian arrived, overheard me talking about it and questioned me (before I left – but then I had to run!) before I returned to my room to get ready for the day.
As soon as I had finished I met Eugene in the lobby and we went out to where the driver had parked just down the alley (in the Hutong parking is scarce) and we soon headed out of Beijing. Unfortunately so did many others from Beijing, and so the traffic was heavy and slow. There were a few accidents on the freeways (nose to tail, not too serious) and a lot of donkey friends meeting (these are people who meet over the Internet and then arrange to meet in their cars on a freeway, so park in emergency lanes and over chevroned merge lane areas).
On the way we called into a Cloisonne factory. Here copper objects such as urns, vases and unique shapes are covered with patterns of thin copper strip (like filigree) which is glued on – all done by hand by women (apparently men don’t have the patience). Then the spaces are filled with a layer of enamel and the object fired. Then enamel is applied again (up to six times) and firing is done again (up to six times). Then, if the object is round, it is polished by rough stone, fine stone and charcoal to give a fine smooth enamelled surface. Once again I got caught and bought a pig (some of you will know Kerry is minding my place for me and she collects pigs) and some owls (for some of my ex-students and one or two others).
Then we went to the Great Wall at Jinshanling. Along the way the traffic was very heavy and there were quite a few accidents – mind you, seeing how some of the people drive (I can’t call them drivers) I was surprised there weren’t more. All of this slowed us down, so we didn’t arrive at the restaurant for lunch there until 1230. After that Eugene and I walked to the Wall (the hard part) and then along part of it. I decided to take the cable car back to get a different view – many tourists took it up and back, so didn’t fall into the “Wall Hero” class. Here there was a funny story.
At the entrance there were many vendors. Being strong (especially as I had now exceeded my week souvenir spending in two days) I said “no”, but one decided to accompany us in the hope of a sale. She didn’t waste the time as she collected plastic bottles along the way. When we were on the wall she threw in a few comments and at one stage, when she thought I would slip (am I starting to look old and frail – because only a few years ago I was supporting mum the same way and was supporting students until then end of the year before last?) she grabbed my arm and held me. I relented and purchased a souvenir book of the wall. When we were leaving the exit (she was back down by then), she rushed after Eugene and I and gave us each a bottle of coke. However, as I said, now some poor vendor at X’ian will most likely miss out.
We then headed back to Beijing, but were held up with a few more accidents and one policeman booking a truck and blocking a large part of the road. Not to be outdone, the people heading back to Beijing managed to turn a “one lane each way” road into a “four lane in and half a lane out” road!
Back in Beijing I was dropped off to see “The Kung Fu Story” – this was a mixture of story-telling, dancing, Kung Fu action and some martial arts action. It was thrilling and seventy-five minutes went in a flash.
Then I was picked up again and taken to a restaurant where I had Peking Duck for tea. I can’t believe what was served up – glass of red wine, Chinese tea, bowl of steamed rice, plate of sliced beef and onion, plate of sliced spiced pork, assorted vegetables in a bird’s nest of fine potato chips on a lettuce leaf, Peking duck (sliced) with pancakes, soya sauce and spring onions, a plate of some green vegetable (which I couldn’t even taste because there was no room left) and sliced watermelon. If Chinese all eat this much at a meal, then I’ve seen the only slim Chinese people and the rest must be HUGE!
I managed to get back to the car (but wasn’t sure I would fit into it) and then got back to the hotel by 2000. I spoke to the girl at reception about checking out early and I will leave my suitcase here (just take the backpack with two days clothes to X’ian) and try to get my jacket and trousers laundered so they will be clean when I return. I hope the weather is warm (or at least not cold) at X’ian.
Then it was the normal procedure, but this evening I did clean my boots. Alas, the washing I had left hanging had not dried (I hope it will overnight). So now it is off to bed and be ready to leave the hotel at 0540 tomorrow to fly to X’ian.
As soon as I had finished I met Eugene in the lobby and we went out to where the driver had parked just down the alley (in the Hutong parking is scarce) and we soon headed out of Beijing. Unfortunately so did many others from Beijing, and so the traffic was heavy and slow. There were a few accidents on the freeways (nose to tail, not too serious) and a lot of donkey friends meeting (these are people who meet over the Internet and then arrange to meet in their cars on a freeway, so park in emergency lanes and over chevroned merge lane areas).
On the way we called into a Cloisonne factory. Here copper objects such as urns, vases and unique shapes are covered with patterns of thin copper strip (like filigree) which is glued on – all done by hand by women (apparently men don’t have the patience). Then the spaces are filled with a layer of enamel and the object fired. Then enamel is applied again (up to six times) and firing is done again (up to six times). Then, if the object is round, it is polished by rough stone, fine stone and charcoal to give a fine smooth enamelled surface. Once again I got caught and bought a pig (some of you will know Kerry is minding my place for me and she collects pigs) and some owls (for some of my ex-students and one or two others).
Then we went to the Great Wall at Jinshanling. Along the way the traffic was very heavy and there were quite a few accidents – mind you, seeing how some of the people drive (I can’t call them drivers) I was surprised there weren’t more. All of this slowed us down, so we didn’t arrive at the restaurant for lunch there until 1230. After that Eugene and I walked to the Wall (the hard part) and then along part of it. I decided to take the cable car back to get a different view – many tourists took it up and back, so didn’t fall into the “Wall Hero” class. Here there was a funny story.
At the entrance there were many vendors. Being strong (especially as I had now exceeded my week souvenir spending in two days) I said “no”, but one decided to accompany us in the hope of a sale. She didn’t waste the time as she collected plastic bottles along the way. When we were on the wall she threw in a few comments and at one stage, when she thought I would slip (am I starting to look old and frail – because only a few years ago I was supporting mum the same way and was supporting students until then end of the year before last?) she grabbed my arm and held me. I relented and purchased a souvenir book of the wall. When we were leaving the exit (she was back down by then), she rushed after Eugene and I and gave us each a bottle of coke. However, as I said, now some poor vendor at X’ian will most likely miss out.
We then headed back to Beijing, but were held up with a few more accidents and one policeman booking a truck and blocking a large part of the road. Not to be outdone, the people heading back to Beijing managed to turn a “one lane each way” road into a “four lane in and half a lane out” road!
Back in Beijing I was dropped off to see “The Kung Fu Story” – this was a mixture of story-telling, dancing, Kung Fu action and some martial arts action. It was thrilling and seventy-five minutes went in a flash.
Then I was picked up again and taken to a restaurant where I had Peking Duck for tea. I can’t believe what was served up – glass of red wine, Chinese tea, bowl of steamed rice, plate of sliced beef and onion, plate of sliced spiced pork, assorted vegetables in a bird’s nest of fine potato chips on a lettuce leaf, Peking duck (sliced) with pancakes, soya sauce and spring onions, a plate of some green vegetable (which I couldn’t even taste because there was no room left) and sliced watermelon. If Chinese all eat this much at a meal, then I’ve seen the only slim Chinese people and the rest must be HUGE!
I managed to get back to the car (but wasn’t sure I would fit into it) and then got back to the hotel by 2000. I spoke to the girl at reception about checking out early and I will leave my suitcase here (just take the backpack with two days clothes to X’ian) and try to get my jacket and trousers laundered so they will be clean when I return. I hope the weather is warm (or at least not cold) at X’ian.
Then it was the normal procedure, but this evening I did clean my boots. Alas, the washing I had left hanging had not dried (I hope it will overnight). So now it is off to bed and be ready to leave the hotel at 0540 tomorrow to fly to X’ian.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
2 October
Today I awoke with a start at 0530 and then realised I was going to head out early. So it was up, shower (and the shower doesn’t leak!), dress, and then grab the GPS and wander out. The first problem was getting out. The interior lobby door was still fastened. One of the receptionists opened it and then, after handing the key over, I was out. Soon I was on the main road (heading south) and there wasn’t much traffic. That augured well. Then I was on the main road heading west to Tiananmen Square and there still wasn’t too much traffic nor too many pedestrians. With my fingers crossed I approached it and found … although there were many people there (I would have said about two hundred thousand) I could still get in. It was a matter of finding a way to cross the street (first an underground crosswalk and then an above-ground pedestrian crossing segregated by police lines) and I was at the square (but still not in it).
There was a police security checkpoint, with detectors and x-ray scanners, and even with my camera, I went straight through. This was the same as at the Kremlin and makes me think that if both these places can do it so easily, how come the US makes it so hard?
Now I was in Tiananmen Square. First impression – huge! Second impression – so many people, yet so organised. Banks of public toilets on the approaches, food vendors and other salespeople in Tiananmen Square with their vans or other transport, guards on all the important places and people generally so orderly (except when it came to taking photographs of family members and friends with the (floral) displays as a backdrop. Here civilisation ceased and primordial urges took over (as well as elbows, feet and words). No such thing as taking turns or letting others in.
Third impression – people so friendly. Many said hello, one took a photo of me and then got his mate to stand beside me, and took another photo, and then one little boy said, “Hello, welcome to Beijing,” and then shook my hand.
After I had taken a lot of photos and looked around a lot, I left to come back to the hotel for breakfast. It didn’t take too long to get back (it was abut 0830), and when I went into my room, it had been “done”. I posted some photos and did some emailing, including answering a question from an ex-student. I find it amazing that people find it quicker to get an answer from me, wherever in the world I am, than from some others. Perhaps that’s good.
Then I went to breakfast. At first I was the only one there, but soon two from Germany came in (not Esther and Sebastian – they are flying out to Berlin and may have already left) and we had a little chat about travel, then a father and two children (who spoke French and English) came in. I had toast (with VEGEMITE again, at last), but the bread was very sweet. Oh for a loaf of ordinary white Australian bread!), scrambled eggs with bacon, chocolate cornflakes, orange juice and REAL TEA with milk! After that repast, I took it easy for a few minutes, photographed parts of the hotel (but not my room yet, as it is strewn with clothing drying and waiting to be washed) and then went out, determined to see the Forbidden City.
How things can happen + traps for young players.
In summary, I was met up by three younger Chinese who spoke reasonably good English. I went with them to a Chinese Medicine Centre for a diagnosis (accurate). Then one of them offered to accompany me to the Forbidden City and show me a silk factory after. I said, up front, I didn’t really have the money to pay him (my Chinese currency covers food and a few souvenirs, but no more and there isn’t any money in the account I can take cash from). However, he continued with me but when we left the silk factory and I said I was walking back to the hotel [as I couldn’t really afford the taxi fare], he then asked for money. The amount I gave him – more than I could really afford, as it was food for me for two days – didn’t please him, but I reminded him I had already told him I couldn’t pay him. He went off with a pained look, but my resolve had to stay firm as I had not made any promises and I didn’t have the money anyway. The trap for young players was for him, as he should have negotiated upfront if he wanted money. I felt no real pangs of regret.
While walking along the alleys of the Houtong (where I am staying – the single-storey area of Beijing), many people smiled at me and greeted me. One was an elderly lady who is a volunteer guard and sits on the alley, keeping an eye out to make sure all are safe and no-one is misbehaving. I asked her, she said yes, so you can see a photo of her.
After I had met Richard and his two female friends, had a look at the Traditional Chinese Medicine Centre and Richard and I walked from there, I saw my first traffic accident. At first I though there had been a collision, as two people were yelling at the driver of a small motorised tricycle. As I went further, I saw a man down on the ground, not moving, with obvious injuries. This was a quandary, because I felt I should have assisted, but how would I do so and then communicate with those around and any further medical treatment practitioners? One woman was on a mobile phone within seconds and before we had crossed the road (about thirty seconds), a police car had arrived and what looked like an ambulance was turning the corner. My conscience was salved, because with blood around and no gloves (they are in my pack, and I wasn’t carrying it), I had another reason not to participate. It looked as though he was getting medical treatment within a minute and half of the accident (which would have been the time for me to access him anyway).
So Richard and I walked to the Forbidden City and I paid the entrance for him and me. It was lower than normal, because with the public holiday many parts were closed (too many people). He walked me through, faster than I would normally have gone, but I did get to see quite a lot in a short period of time. Interesting parts were – the cauldrons, which held water in case of fire, incense burners, the number of animals carved on the roof endings (up to ten for the emperor), the size (960 by 720 metres, with a moat around), the treasures and the calligraphy. I got shown some areas obviously off-limits to most Chinese, but westerners were being shown them on the assumption they would most likely buy something. However, many of these traders don’t understand that many tourists have saved all their lives to pay for trips like this and don’t have a lot of free cash. The way sums of AUD1000 and up were bandied about, it was assumed we were all rich.
Outside the Forbidden City (which was crowded, as you will see in the photos, but not overly so) we caught a motorcycle taxi – a driver with an enclosed cab and room for two seated passengers. This took us to the silk factory, where a number of people showed me the process for getting the silk and then making the items from them (silk clothing from single cocoons, quilts from double cocoons). I would have loved a silk quilt, but the cost, the weight and the inconvenience of getting it home was too much, so I settled for a tie. After that I parted with Richard and walked back to the hotel, about four kilometres.
At the hotel I wrote up my blog, processed and uploaded the photos and then went for a walk to get some night shots of the streets which are now so familiar to me. Along the way I got cornered by yet another artist who has a teacher of English from Woollongong (so either there’s a lot of them or noeis very busy). I have learned to say no, so I saw the paintings but walked out with nothing. As I left (the paintings were being exhibited in a spare room in a restaurant), the girl out the front, trying to entice diners in, looked so much like another of my ex-students that I did a double-take to check (but I knew she was in Australia as I had emailed her this morning). Then I walked home to my hotel, uploaded the new photos and updated the blog, then did some shoe cleaning, washing and resting. I walk the Wall tomorrow and my legs and feet need the rest.
There was a police security checkpoint, with detectors and x-ray scanners, and even with my camera, I went straight through. This was the same as at the Kremlin and makes me think that if both these places can do it so easily, how come the US makes it so hard?
Now I was in Tiananmen Square. First impression – huge! Second impression – so many people, yet so organised. Banks of public toilets on the approaches, food vendors and other salespeople in Tiananmen Square with their vans or other transport, guards on all the important places and people generally so orderly (except when it came to taking photographs of family members and friends with the (floral) displays as a backdrop. Here civilisation ceased and primordial urges took over (as well as elbows, feet and words). No such thing as taking turns or letting others in.
Third impression – people so friendly. Many said hello, one took a photo of me and then got his mate to stand beside me, and took another photo, and then one little boy said, “Hello, welcome to Beijing,” and then shook my hand.
After I had taken a lot of photos and looked around a lot, I left to come back to the hotel for breakfast. It didn’t take too long to get back (it was abut 0830), and when I went into my room, it had been “done”. I posted some photos and did some emailing, including answering a question from an ex-student. I find it amazing that people find it quicker to get an answer from me, wherever in the world I am, than from some others. Perhaps that’s good.
Then I went to breakfast. At first I was the only one there, but soon two from Germany came in (not Esther and Sebastian – they are flying out to Berlin and may have already left) and we had a little chat about travel, then a father and two children (who spoke French and English) came in. I had toast (with VEGEMITE again, at last), but the bread was very sweet. Oh for a loaf of ordinary white Australian bread!), scrambled eggs with bacon, chocolate cornflakes, orange juice and REAL TEA with milk! After that repast, I took it easy for a few minutes, photographed parts of the hotel (but not my room yet, as it is strewn with clothing drying and waiting to be washed) and then went out, determined to see the Forbidden City.
How things can happen + traps for young players.
In summary, I was met up by three younger Chinese who spoke reasonably good English. I went with them to a Chinese Medicine Centre for a diagnosis (accurate). Then one of them offered to accompany me to the Forbidden City and show me a silk factory after. I said, up front, I didn’t really have the money to pay him (my Chinese currency covers food and a few souvenirs, but no more and there isn’t any money in the account I can take cash from). However, he continued with me but when we left the silk factory and I said I was walking back to the hotel [as I couldn’t really afford the taxi fare], he then asked for money. The amount I gave him – more than I could really afford, as it was food for me for two days – didn’t please him, but I reminded him I had already told him I couldn’t pay him. He went off with a pained look, but my resolve had to stay firm as I had not made any promises and I didn’t have the money anyway. The trap for young players was for him, as he should have negotiated upfront if he wanted money. I felt no real pangs of regret.
While walking along the alleys of the Houtong (where I am staying – the single-storey area of Beijing), many people smiled at me and greeted me. One was an elderly lady who is a volunteer guard and sits on the alley, keeping an eye out to make sure all are safe and no-one is misbehaving. I asked her, she said yes, so you can see a photo of her.
After I had met Richard and his two female friends, had a look at the Traditional Chinese Medicine Centre and Richard and I walked from there, I saw my first traffic accident. At first I though there had been a collision, as two people were yelling at the driver of a small motorised tricycle. As I went further, I saw a man down on the ground, not moving, with obvious injuries. This was a quandary, because I felt I should have assisted, but how would I do so and then communicate with those around and any further medical treatment practitioners? One woman was on a mobile phone within seconds and before we had crossed the road (about thirty seconds), a police car had arrived and what looked like an ambulance was turning the corner. My conscience was salved, because with blood around and no gloves (they are in my pack, and I wasn’t carrying it), I had another reason not to participate. It looked as though he was getting medical treatment within a minute and half of the accident (which would have been the time for me to access him anyway).
So Richard and I walked to the Forbidden City and I paid the entrance for him and me. It was lower than normal, because with the public holiday many parts were closed (too many people). He walked me through, faster than I would normally have gone, but I did get to see quite a lot in a short period of time. Interesting parts were – the cauldrons, which held water in case of fire, incense burners, the number of animals carved on the roof endings (up to ten for the emperor), the size (960 by 720 metres, with a moat around), the treasures and the calligraphy. I got shown some areas obviously off-limits to most Chinese, but westerners were being shown them on the assumption they would most likely buy something. However, many of these traders don’t understand that many tourists have saved all their lives to pay for trips like this and don’t have a lot of free cash. The way sums of AUD1000 and up were bandied about, it was assumed we were all rich.
Outside the Forbidden City (which was crowded, as you will see in the photos, but not overly so) we caught a motorcycle taxi – a driver with an enclosed cab and room for two seated passengers. This took us to the silk factory, where a number of people showed me the process for getting the silk and then making the items from them (silk clothing from single cocoons, quilts from double cocoons). I would have loved a silk quilt, but the cost, the weight and the inconvenience of getting it home was too much, so I settled for a tie. After that I parted with Richard and walked back to the hotel, about four kilometres.
At the hotel I wrote up my blog, processed and uploaded the photos and then went for a walk to get some night shots of the streets which are now so familiar to me. Along the way I got cornered by yet another artist who has a teacher of English from Woollongong (so either there’s a lot of them or noeis very busy). I have learned to say no, so I saw the paintings but walked out with nothing. As I left (the paintings were being exhibited in a spare room in a restaurant), the girl out the front, trying to entice diners in, looked so much like another of my ex-students that I did a double-take to check (but I knew she was in Australia as I had emailed her this morning). Then I walked home to my hotel, uploaded the new photos and updated the blog, then did some shoe cleaning, washing and resting. I walk the Wall tomorrow and my legs and feet need the rest.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
1 October
Ah well, dear reader, how things can change!
Knowing I had to be up early, I had gone to sleep and was well and truly in the arms of Morpheus by 2100. Then my slumbers were rudely interrupted by the telephone ringing at 2300. “Yes?” I groggily answered, only to have an incomprehensible comment made from the other end. “Did you want to arrange a wake-up call?” I innocently asked, only to have a husky female voice ask if I wanted female companionship for the night (and that’s the way I’ll phrase it). “No!” I emphatically answered and thrust the receiver down. So back to sleep I tried to go.
Now on the way back to the hotel the night before I had been feeling thirsty and had consumed a medium bottle of coke. Being half-awake was the pits, as now I had to get up again to answer (but not the telephone this time). The mattress didn’t help, as I have slept on softer floors. Finally at 0430 I was up.
After a shower and packing, I went down to the restaurant to see if I could convince them to let me have an early breakfast (as the reception staff wouldn’t let me change days yesterday). No luck at all, so after the Internet not working (and being charged to use the Business Centre computer), I cannot recommend the Hotel Primoriye in Vladivostok at all.
The agent, on the other had, I can recommend fully. The driver turned up at 0530 on the dot and we were at the airport just before 0630 and, before I knew it, he had taken my bag in, shown me where to sit and then enter, and left. I weighed my suitcase on the scales outside and found it was 23 kg (which I couldn’t understand as for every other flight, same configuration, it was 20 kg. When I went in, after clearing customs, the scales on the airport said my case was 20 kg! Go figure – I can’t.
When I went through emigration, I thought my paperwork must have been wrong. The young control officer looked at my documents, punched a few keys, made a few frantic calls and I thought the security guards were all coming my way. I found out after that someone had not switched the central computer on, so every time he typed anything, there was no response.
While waiting I found myself in the area with, you guessed it, a school excursion! Fortunately all went well, but can’t I ever escape them? We went out to board our plane at 0800, a Tupelov 154. We left the terminal area on time, but I have no idea of how far away the runway was, but we took ten minutes to reach it. We then had the shortest and fastest take-off I have ever had, beating any Boeing or AirBus hands down. We weren’t long in the air before the meals came around and I got my allergy card out, but before I could say anything, I was given the choice of fish, chicken or beef. Believe it or not, the meal was the best airline meal I have ever had – all well presented and edible.
After a brief nap (once over China I couldn’t see anything on the ground) I was woken up to get ready to land. Again we landed and then had a long wait until we were at the terminal. For once, someone used some nouse and had all the school children exit the plane first. Today I was the last off.
In the terminal there were pictures, murals and statues. It actually looked pleasant entering it. However, the air outside looked, well, hazy? But with a quick trip down the moving walkways (which worked well) we arrived at immigration control and, in a few moments, I was through. Then it was wait time for claiming my bag – the luggage had been manually loaded at Vladivostok and so had to be manually unloaded. It came along, while I was reading that I should check my laggage label carefully to make sure I didn’t get the wrong laggage. Twice I had a solicitous (meaning caring, not the other one) assistant come over, worried abut my welfare. She brought a trolley and almost refused to leave me, until I told her my suitcase had wheels. Then when it came out and I put my backpack on, she helped with that and told me it was hot outside (but where else could ‘I keep my jacket but wear it?)
I trundled along with everything and went through the “Nothing to Declare” aisle and continued out. Immediately I saw my name, called out to the fellow (Eugene) and he followed me to the end of the arrivals exit. Now at this stage I really should look in the mirror because he immediately grabbed my suitcase and tried to help with the backpack – am I looking infirm? We went out and into the car-park and only waited a second until a car and driver rolled up. Everything in the boot (except me) and we were off. It was a relatively quick trip into Beijing (although having never been here before, perhaps I can’t comment), apparently because this is the first day of at least five days of public holidays – a great thing to find out that I am sharing the city with a whole load of holiday-makers from the countryside as well as overseas.
We finally drove our way to the hotel. It is in an area where all original one-storey buildings are and cannot be altered outside. It’s very scenic (and more will follow), but the road is a small alley, more suited to pedestrians and bicycles. The luggage was unloaded, this time with assistance from a porter at the hotel, who looked old and wizened, but toted the load like it was nothing. I checked in, but because of the time (three hours time difference from Vladivostok, so 0900 when I arrived at the hotel) my room wasn’t ready. Leaving my jacket, backpack and suitcase (but taking my laptop with me in its little backpack), my guide (Eugene) and I set off. The first problem – the alley is too small to be on maps, so it’s not on any easily available piece of paper. I memorised the last little alley entrance and we walked south. We tried another map, but it too didn’t show the alley (and it was all in Chinese) so I will have to rely on the GPs or my memory.
Eugene left me at a point where I could walk down to Tiananmen Square so I headed off. After three intersections, confusion! So many people wanted to get there that the police had stopped pedestrians walking in, so I could go no further (I tried a few different ways with no luck). I wandered back and called in to that fine Scottish restaurant chain for a quick meal before intending to check into my hotel room. Outside the CITS building I fell into conversation with two young Chinese ladies who are art students, but also wanting to practice English. They convinced me to accompany them to their art exhibition – and showing me the shopping street (a mall which had never been open for general use by cars) along the way. At the exhibition, by the students and their teacher, some of the paintings were so good that I bought them – and then found they were by those students. After that we had a trip to the post office to send them home (and they will be on the slow boat from China, not to it) and then I headed back t the hotel.
Once I had found the alley, all was good. The people in the street all waved or nodded back, and some even said, “Good day” or “hello” – but the most extraordinary sight was an elderly gentleman doing his shoelace up – he was bent at the waist and his eyes were at his shoelaces! He evidently doesn’t suffer from arthritis!
Back at the hotel my room was ready so I set up the computer (and set out my half-dry washing to dry), uploaded all my photos and my blogs, checked my mail and then had a look around. I got no further than having a chat with a German girl, here for a few days with her boyfriend, who have already seen the Great Wall. We compared notes on travelling as I realised my legs are aching from climbing up Vladivostok hills yesterday, then I returned to work on this blog and decided a little walk might be in order.
When I went out, again I was amazed at the friendliness of most people. Only one person scowled (out of a thousand or so) and most smiled back – a few said “Hello” in English, which may have been the only English they knew. One engaged me in conversation for a few minutes, asking how I had found China, how long I was staying and what I was seeing. I came back to the hotel, did some more writing up, chatted to the German couple (the boy was out now), then did some emailing and went to bed early so I could get to Tiananmen Square before the throng tomorrow.
Knowing I had to be up early, I had gone to sleep and was well and truly in the arms of Morpheus by 2100. Then my slumbers were rudely interrupted by the telephone ringing at 2300. “Yes?” I groggily answered, only to have an incomprehensible comment made from the other end. “Did you want to arrange a wake-up call?” I innocently asked, only to have a husky female voice ask if I wanted female companionship for the night (and that’s the way I’ll phrase it). “No!” I emphatically answered and thrust the receiver down. So back to sleep I tried to go.
Now on the way back to the hotel the night before I had been feeling thirsty and had consumed a medium bottle of coke. Being half-awake was the pits, as now I had to get up again to answer (but not the telephone this time). The mattress didn’t help, as I have slept on softer floors. Finally at 0430 I was up.
After a shower and packing, I went down to the restaurant to see if I could convince them to let me have an early breakfast (as the reception staff wouldn’t let me change days yesterday). No luck at all, so after the Internet not working (and being charged to use the Business Centre computer), I cannot recommend the Hotel Primoriye in Vladivostok at all.
The agent, on the other had, I can recommend fully. The driver turned up at 0530 on the dot and we were at the airport just before 0630 and, before I knew it, he had taken my bag in, shown me where to sit and then enter, and left. I weighed my suitcase on the scales outside and found it was 23 kg (which I couldn’t understand as for every other flight, same configuration, it was 20 kg. When I went in, after clearing customs, the scales on the airport said my case was 20 kg! Go figure – I can’t.
When I went through emigration, I thought my paperwork must have been wrong. The young control officer looked at my documents, punched a few keys, made a few frantic calls and I thought the security guards were all coming my way. I found out after that someone had not switched the central computer on, so every time he typed anything, there was no response.
While waiting I found myself in the area with, you guessed it, a school excursion! Fortunately all went well, but can’t I ever escape them? We went out to board our plane at 0800, a Tupelov 154. We left the terminal area on time, but I have no idea of how far away the runway was, but we took ten minutes to reach it. We then had the shortest and fastest take-off I have ever had, beating any Boeing or AirBus hands down. We weren’t long in the air before the meals came around and I got my allergy card out, but before I could say anything, I was given the choice of fish, chicken or beef. Believe it or not, the meal was the best airline meal I have ever had – all well presented and edible.
After a brief nap (once over China I couldn’t see anything on the ground) I was woken up to get ready to land. Again we landed and then had a long wait until we were at the terminal. For once, someone used some nouse and had all the school children exit the plane first. Today I was the last off.
In the terminal there were pictures, murals and statues. It actually looked pleasant entering it. However, the air outside looked, well, hazy? But with a quick trip down the moving walkways (which worked well) we arrived at immigration control and, in a few moments, I was through. Then it was wait time for claiming my bag – the luggage had been manually loaded at Vladivostok and so had to be manually unloaded. It came along, while I was reading that I should check my laggage label carefully to make sure I didn’t get the wrong laggage. Twice I had a solicitous (meaning caring, not the other one) assistant come over, worried abut my welfare. She brought a trolley and almost refused to leave me, until I told her my suitcase had wheels. Then when it came out and I put my backpack on, she helped with that and told me it was hot outside (but where else could ‘I keep my jacket but wear it?)
I trundled along with everything and went through the “Nothing to Declare” aisle and continued out. Immediately I saw my name, called out to the fellow (Eugene) and he followed me to the end of the arrivals exit. Now at this stage I really should look in the mirror because he immediately grabbed my suitcase and tried to help with the backpack – am I looking infirm? We went out and into the car-park and only waited a second until a car and driver rolled up. Everything in the boot (except me) and we were off. It was a relatively quick trip into Beijing (although having never been here before, perhaps I can’t comment), apparently because this is the first day of at least five days of public holidays – a great thing to find out that I am sharing the city with a whole load of holiday-makers from the countryside as well as overseas.
We finally drove our way to the hotel. It is in an area where all original one-storey buildings are and cannot be altered outside. It’s very scenic (and more will follow), but the road is a small alley, more suited to pedestrians and bicycles. The luggage was unloaded, this time with assistance from a porter at the hotel, who looked old and wizened, but toted the load like it was nothing. I checked in, but because of the time (three hours time difference from Vladivostok, so 0900 when I arrived at the hotel) my room wasn’t ready. Leaving my jacket, backpack and suitcase (but taking my laptop with me in its little backpack), my guide (Eugene) and I set off. The first problem – the alley is too small to be on maps, so it’s not on any easily available piece of paper. I memorised the last little alley entrance and we walked south. We tried another map, but it too didn’t show the alley (and it was all in Chinese) so I will have to rely on the GPs or my memory.
Eugene left me at a point where I could walk down to Tiananmen Square so I headed off. After three intersections, confusion! So many people wanted to get there that the police had stopped pedestrians walking in, so I could go no further (I tried a few different ways with no luck). I wandered back and called in to that fine Scottish restaurant chain for a quick meal before intending to check into my hotel room. Outside the CITS building I fell into conversation with two young Chinese ladies who are art students, but also wanting to practice English. They convinced me to accompany them to their art exhibition – and showing me the shopping street (a mall which had never been open for general use by cars) along the way. At the exhibition, by the students and their teacher, some of the paintings were so good that I bought them – and then found they were by those students. After that we had a trip to the post office to send them home (and they will be on the slow boat from China, not to it) and then I headed back t the hotel.
Once I had found the alley, all was good. The people in the street all waved or nodded back, and some even said, “Good day” or “hello” – but the most extraordinary sight was an elderly gentleman doing his shoelace up – he was bent at the waist and his eyes were at his shoelaces! He evidently doesn’t suffer from arthritis!
Back at the hotel my room was ready so I set up the computer (and set out my half-dry washing to dry), uploaded all my photos and my blogs, checked my mail and then had a look around. I got no further than having a chat with a German girl, here for a few days with her boyfriend, who have already seen the Great Wall. We compared notes on travelling as I realised my legs are aching from climbing up Vladivostok hills yesterday, then I returned to work on this blog and decided a little walk might be in order.
When I went out, again I was amazed at the friendliness of most people. Only one person scowled (out of a thousand or so) and most smiled back – a few said “Hello” in English, which may have been the only English they knew. One engaged me in conversation for a few minutes, asking how I had found China, how long I was staying and what I was seeing. I came back to the hotel, did some more writing up, chatted to the German couple (the boy was out now), then did some emailing and went to bed early so I could get to Tiananmen Square before the throng tomorrow.
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