Well, today was a most informative and instructional day which started after a fitful sleep interrupted by the room fridge starting every few minutes and alternating with the sounds of running (or at least walking quickly) along the corridor. After checking (some clothes were dry, others weren’t), I showered and dressed and was down for breakfast by the appointed start time of 0730.
After a bit of investigation I found the breakfast room, which was the nightclub in the evening. There was a palatial buffet set out, including amongst other things freshly cooked pancakes and fried eggs. There was a toaster, but in common with a lot of countries, the toast bread was small. However it was soon done, buttered and Vegemited (then eaten). This was followed by what should have been cornflakes and milk, but which actually tasted like sugar crispies. I finished with bacon and fried egg and wondered if my travelling companions of the last evening would arrive.
While waiting, there are some observations I made. We had music supplied by a piano accordionist and this was gentle and not obtrusive. However one of the breakfast guests (a Finn, I found out later) was rather loud and proved obnoxious on a few occasions, calling out to one of the waitresses, “Hey, Ruskie” and on another occasion, “Hey, you lady” when what he was looking for was right in front of him if he looked. At this stage Harry and Anne from yesterday evening arrived for breakfast. Apparently Anne had left her coat on the bus (putting in neatly in the overhead rack) and tried to contact the company, but there was only an address and a fax number. They were returning to Kirkenes later this afternoon and hoped they would find it by then.
I headed off to the desk and explained about the Internet and had to get two thirty-minute cards for access. I also had to arrange about transport to the railway station tomorrow and was explaining abut Vegemite when I was rudely interrupted by another, unfortunately very good, English speaker.
I went up and finished writing up my blog and then logged on and uploaded the photos, checked my emails and posted out another bulk email. Fortunately all that happened in less than the thirty minutes on the card. A neat trick is most of these cards have no logout function and, once you are logged in, it lapses at the end of the time whether or not it’s been used.
But enough of that. At just before 1000 I went down to the lobby and looked for my guide, Alexander. I saw a tall and young Russian holding a sheet with “Nullet” on it and figured it was close enough – and it turned out it was! He was my guide, we looked at the train ticket and then the receptionist booked the taxi for tomorrow evening. Then Alexander and I headed off for my three hour guided tour.
I emphasise this because we returned to the hotel at 1745, seven and three quarter hours later.
We began by Alexander asking if I wanted to walk a bit, I said yes and so we started walking down to the main street. Then we walked north and he pointed out the five-cornered square (yes, it is correct) and the public areas around there where the populous gather to celebrate (anything). Just up from there is the government offices and then the museum which my Russian companion of the night before had mentioned. That didn’t open until after 1100, so we wandered east past the Ice Hockey/Convention Centre and then into the Railway Station. It wasn’t until after I had taken a picture of a peculiar sign that Alexander mentioned that stations were prohibited places for photographs! We walked over the station and into the dock. Here there were a variety of vessels, including and oceanographic research vessel and a seagoing tug. A few dry docks and coal depots were also visible, showing how busy the port is. From here we caught a bus (fare 10 roubles) to the south end of the city (past a large informal used car market, on the street), where I was foolish enough to agree to a walk up to the hilltop. The hilltop was reached after over an hour and two bottles of drink (after a long exploration of a supermarket). Anyone who tells you Murmansk is cold in September never walked up that hill, especially wearing a coat. At the top it was blessedly windy, lowering my temperature considerably next to normal. On the way we had seen numbers of women collecting herbs.
The view from the top, along the inlet down past Kola and then north of Murmansk, was breathtaking in every sense of the word. Anywhere else there would have been a cable car up to there and a café/restaurant/bar at the top. We walked down and then caught a minibus (window on passenger side held up with a screw-driver) to the north of Murmansk. The driver managed to collect fares, give change, see passengers hailing his minibus and also notice passengers wishing to alight, while still changing gear and weaving through the traffic (fare 13 roubles). He would go well in Italy.
We alighted to take a short walk to Lake Semyonovskoe, where crowds were starting to take advantage of the sunny weather and the traders were moving to take advantage of the crowds. Avoiding the tractor train we walked to the statue of Aloysha, a huge concrete figure of a soldier looking to the east. The statue was being cleaned by the fire brigade, so we couldn’t see the eternal flame. What we could see was a few weddings. The couple, in all their finery, go to the top in a taxi with all the friends in deck-out cars. After photos, they all get back in and then cruise the city, doing laps and tooting horns loudly. A real celebration!
The statue and the block, together with other plaques, are in memory of the Great Patriotic War (WWII to us). So many Russians died and there were so many tragedies occurred, and it is a very moving place.
We wlaked down the hill through the park and caught a trolley-bus to the museum (fare ten roubles). At the museum, entry was 10 roubles (but it was an additional 50 roubles to take photos). The museum is on three levels and covers the natural history of the area, the mineral and fauna of the area and history of the town (it was established in 1916). Perhaps the most moving part was the photo (see it in the pictures for today) of Murmansk after firebombing and only a huge number of chimneys are visible. There was a book covering events around then (From Murmansk to Berlin) and a film on the battles which took place around then (I can’t remember its name).
Because we exhibited so much interest, another part of the gem exhibition was opened for us. Then, when we were about to leave, one of the attendants asked where I was from (Australia) and what did we think about Georgia. I replied that we had so little reliable information that it was hard to really decide what was happening. We caught a trolleybus (fare ten roubles) back to the street leading up to the hotel and there we parted. I said farewell, gave him a koala pin, and then went to my room. I wrote up my diary, processed the photos from today and then uploaded all, checked and sent email and then went to bed.
Murmansk – not crowded, not much traffic, patches of forest even in the city centre, very friendly people, wonderful views but many buildings needing repair.
Saturday, September 6, 2008
Friday, September 5, 2008
5 September
Today I was up at 0625 and down for breakfast at 0700 – only to find people ALREADY down there! The times I was given were wrong!
I had breakfast with (as I found out later) a couple from Helsinki who were the equivalent of our U3A. Unfortunately the lady’s English was limited to about ten words and her husband less. SO there wasn’t much information exchanged.
I was ready to go up to my room to finish packing at 0745 only to find my two travelling companions, John and Carrie, already outside and our guide and driver, Timo (wife of Anne) already there with the mini-bus. I very hurriedly cleaned my teeth and finished packing, made sure there was nothing left in the room and went downstairs ready for action, with suitcase in hand, backpack on (my back) and camera and case (with gloves and cap attached) around my neck. I left Timo to pack it in the back and I went up to the front seat and made myself comfortable, with the pack at my feet and the camera, etc., next to me.
We set off and headed north-west to Kirkenes (in Norway). Along the way we discussed aspects of the Finnish life and countryside, weather, the different seasons, the flora and the fauna. When we saw some reindeer along the way Timo stopped so Carrie and John could get some pictures – but apparently the reindeer are spooked if you walk towards them, so you either have to stay in the vehicle or take the pictures ‘around the corner’ of the vehicle you are travelling in.
We called in at a Reindeer Research Station, where research into foods, taste of the meat and carrying capacity investigated, while skills in reindeer handling, husbandry and slaughtering are taught there. They even have slaughterhouses which are in containers so they can be taken to remote locations and placed by helicopter!
We then stopped in briefly at a launching point on Lake Inari, where we saw the locals’ boats just laying there – something abut country life is the same everywhere.
Then we called in at a Skolti Sami village, about twenty families, and saw the museum there. We got to see a little of the culture as it was moved and relocated from territory which reverted to Russia after WWII. Not long after that we called in for morning tea at a little roadside café. The cost was surprisingly little (€2,40), given the costs I have become used to in Scandinavian places. Then we proceeded on into Norway and stopped at the river to see a small waterfall, on a river famous for salmon.
After that, we went almost straight into Kirkenes and dropped John and Carrie at the Lofoten, the ship they were taking down to Bergen. Timo gave me a quick tour of the town and then dropped me at the office of the tour agents in Kirkenes, where I was introduced to Anne. I left my luggage there and went for a walk around the town, after visiting an ATM to get some Norwegian cash. First stop was the supermarket, for rolls and a drink, and then a walk along the waterfront while eating and drinking the same. The waterfront was interesting because of the ships in there for repainting and other services. Apparently Kirkenes is an important shipbuilding area.
After a walk through a few residential streets to get the flavour of the town, I had a look at the shopping area. Apart from the normal spread of shops, there was also a shopping centre, fully enclosed, and a Salvation Army store. Things here were very cheap compared to elsewhere. By 1330 I had seen most things and walked back to the tour centre where I was treated to cake and coffee (which I can drink black, but only with sugar) and checked my email.
About 1415 Anne spotted the bus in, so we went over and, after a bit of discussion, I was on with both my pack and suitcase in the luggage compartment (I didn’t feel comfortable with it out of my sight). There was a Russian family (mother, father and young son) and a Russian woman already on, but given thirteen seats, the number seemed small (but there were bags on some other seats). Before we left, the number swelled to twelve, with a couple from Gembrook (originally Germany) who recognised my accent. The second-last passenger to board was a young woman with multiple piercings. We finally set off at 1500 to the sounds of Lionel Ritchie. Everything progressed well ad I soon found out that the young woman could speak English, as the couple from Gembrook were talking with her. We stopped at the Norwegian border control post and were processed reasonably quickly, and then set out to the Russian border post. Things were a little slower there as we had to carry our luggage through, but al least I know now what the visa number is. I went through the “Nothing to Declare” aisle and was back on the bus very quickly. We have, as visitors, a white sheet of paper to verify when we entered and when we expect to leave. That has to be checked when the passport is.
Just as we went through the first point where everything was again checked, another passenger boarded. I moved to the back row with the young woman and the Australian couple and we all had a most interesting chat along the way. We had one further check.
After a slow run we stopped at a place for a toilet break (ten roubles each) and a stretch. We then went slowly on to Murmansk, with a two our time difference making the time later still.
We finally arrived at Murmansk, where the couple and I were staying at the same hotel. W got off the bus (a Mercedes Sprinter long wheelbase, with thirteen passenger seats and the driver) at about 2220 and checked in. I was in 613. Passports had to be left at the front desk (to be picked up when we leave) and I was give a parcel and instructions to met Alexander at 1000 tomorrow. Then it was to the room, prepare, process the photos (none taken between Kirkenes and Murmansk, just in case) and then started writing the diary. I tried the Internet cable, but it was a dial-up, not Ethernet, so didn’t work. Finally, about 0010 I went to bed.
I had breakfast with (as I found out later) a couple from Helsinki who were the equivalent of our U3A. Unfortunately the lady’s English was limited to about ten words and her husband less. SO there wasn’t much information exchanged.
I was ready to go up to my room to finish packing at 0745 only to find my two travelling companions, John and Carrie, already outside and our guide and driver, Timo (wife of Anne) already there with the mini-bus. I very hurriedly cleaned my teeth and finished packing, made sure there was nothing left in the room and went downstairs ready for action, with suitcase in hand, backpack on (my back) and camera and case (with gloves and cap attached) around my neck. I left Timo to pack it in the back and I went up to the front seat and made myself comfortable, with the pack at my feet and the camera, etc., next to me.
We set off and headed north-west to Kirkenes (in Norway). Along the way we discussed aspects of the Finnish life and countryside, weather, the different seasons, the flora and the fauna. When we saw some reindeer along the way Timo stopped so Carrie and John could get some pictures – but apparently the reindeer are spooked if you walk towards them, so you either have to stay in the vehicle or take the pictures ‘around the corner’ of the vehicle you are travelling in.
We called in at a Reindeer Research Station, where research into foods, taste of the meat and carrying capacity investigated, while skills in reindeer handling, husbandry and slaughtering are taught there. They even have slaughterhouses which are in containers so they can be taken to remote locations and placed by helicopter!
We then stopped in briefly at a launching point on Lake Inari, where we saw the locals’ boats just laying there – something abut country life is the same everywhere.
Then we called in at a Skolti Sami village, about twenty families, and saw the museum there. We got to see a little of the culture as it was moved and relocated from territory which reverted to Russia after WWII. Not long after that we called in for morning tea at a little roadside café. The cost was surprisingly little (€2,40), given the costs I have become used to in Scandinavian places. Then we proceeded on into Norway and stopped at the river to see a small waterfall, on a river famous for salmon.
After that, we went almost straight into Kirkenes and dropped John and Carrie at the Lofoten, the ship they were taking down to Bergen. Timo gave me a quick tour of the town and then dropped me at the office of the tour agents in Kirkenes, where I was introduced to Anne. I left my luggage there and went for a walk around the town, after visiting an ATM to get some Norwegian cash. First stop was the supermarket, for rolls and a drink, and then a walk along the waterfront while eating and drinking the same. The waterfront was interesting because of the ships in there for repainting and other services. Apparently Kirkenes is an important shipbuilding area.
After a walk through a few residential streets to get the flavour of the town, I had a look at the shopping area. Apart from the normal spread of shops, there was also a shopping centre, fully enclosed, and a Salvation Army store. Things here were very cheap compared to elsewhere. By 1330 I had seen most things and walked back to the tour centre where I was treated to cake and coffee (which I can drink black, but only with sugar) and checked my email.
About 1415 Anne spotted the bus in, so we went over and, after a bit of discussion, I was on with both my pack and suitcase in the luggage compartment (I didn’t feel comfortable with it out of my sight). There was a Russian family (mother, father and young son) and a Russian woman already on, but given thirteen seats, the number seemed small (but there were bags on some other seats). Before we left, the number swelled to twelve, with a couple from Gembrook (originally Germany) who recognised my accent. The second-last passenger to board was a young woman with multiple piercings. We finally set off at 1500 to the sounds of Lionel Ritchie. Everything progressed well ad I soon found out that the young woman could speak English, as the couple from Gembrook were talking with her. We stopped at the Norwegian border control post and were processed reasonably quickly, and then set out to the Russian border post. Things were a little slower there as we had to carry our luggage through, but al least I know now what the visa number is. I went through the “Nothing to Declare” aisle and was back on the bus very quickly. We have, as visitors, a white sheet of paper to verify when we entered and when we expect to leave. That has to be checked when the passport is.
Just as we went through the first point where everything was again checked, another passenger boarded. I moved to the back row with the young woman and the Australian couple and we all had a most interesting chat along the way. We had one further check.
After a slow run we stopped at a place for a toilet break (ten roubles each) and a stretch. We then went slowly on to Murmansk, with a two our time difference making the time later still.
We finally arrived at Murmansk, where the couple and I were staying at the same hotel. W got off the bus (a Mercedes Sprinter long wheelbase, with thirteen passenger seats and the driver) at about 2220 and checked in. I was in 613. Passports had to be left at the front desk (to be picked up when we leave) and I was give a parcel and instructions to met Alexander at 1000 tomorrow. Then it was to the room, prepare, process the photos (none taken between Kirkenes and Murmansk, just in case) and then started writing the diary. I tried the Internet cable, but it was a dial-up, not Ethernet, so didn’t work. Finally, about 0010 I went to bed.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
4 September
Today I slept in again– well, a little later. I woke at 0605, but I rolled over and went back to sleep. Then I was up at 0700, checked the washing (nearly dry), so hung the still damp ones in the wardrobe and packed the others away, then showered, dressed and went down at 0745.
Breakfast was well and truly ready, with about fifty people already eating. I will be down at 0715 tomorrow and see if I can start then.
I had my normal breakfast and then went back up, finished there and finally left about 0945. It was raining and looked quite miserable, so I walked down the street in my wet-weather gear (which just means hood up and gloves on, but the same clothes). I went to look in the Sami shop, but is was still closed. I got my last Euro withdrawal from Otto (the ATM) and went to the Tour Centre. I told the girl on duty there that I would meet Anne’s husband at the SIIDA museum rather than in town, as I would look around first.
On the way back I checked the post office hours (9-17), which is inside the K supermarket. When I passed, the Sami shop was open so I looked inside. The material on sale was very colourful, although little of it is made in Finland. I resisted the temptation to buy anything.
By the time I got to the SIIDA, the weather looked as if it had really close in for the day. Viewing inside the museum seemed the best option, but once inside I found … the schoolchildren again! The teacher I had spoken to wasn’t there (I found out later the group was split and half were white-water rafting, so I suppose he was with them).
For a relatively small museum, it is information-rich. There were two peripheral displays, one on natural Sami food (which made me think of the things from the yard I ate when young, and the natural remedies we used to cure ourselves rather than show parents that we had injured ourselves) and one on Sami handicrafts. These took nearly an hour and a half to see, so I was at the front at just before noon to meet my newer guide, Anne’s husband. His accent is thicker than Anne’s so he was a little harder to understand (so I still don’t know his name) and he was an optometrist in Helsinki before entering this business more than fifteen years ago, but thinks the locals may now accept him.
He showed me the layout of the other exhibit rooms (one showing the history of the Sami people and the area, from the last ice age, with reference points of world events listed also, and the other showing the seasons and the way the Sami live within them) and then left me to go slowly through them. I finished just before 1400 and went down to the show on the Aurora Borealis. Rather than a series of different views of light displays, the show was a series of stills with music and singing behind it, lasting about ten minutes. I think I preferred the show with the fox’s tail creating the lights, as seen in the Rovaniemi museum.
After, I returned to the hotel, collected up what I was going to post home and then went to the post office. I sent four postcards (to those who aren’t on email) and my parcel ended up with a series of stamps, so if anyone wants Finnish stamps, they are available to the first person who asks, but are not available until after I return home.
I returned again to the hotel and met the couple who will be travelling with me tomorrow morning. They are from Sydney and have come here via London, Estonia, Latvia, Moscow, St Petersburg and Helsinki. We chatted for a time about world travels, then they left to walk (it may be clearing slightly) while I went up to process photos, post photos, write my blog and answer some emails. This time I really will try for an early night.
N.B. Some of the photos, shot without flash (museum conditions), may not be as clear as I would have liked, but they will “walk” you around the exhibits and displays.
Breakfast was well and truly ready, with about fifty people already eating. I will be down at 0715 tomorrow and see if I can start then.
I had my normal breakfast and then went back up, finished there and finally left about 0945. It was raining and looked quite miserable, so I walked down the street in my wet-weather gear (which just means hood up and gloves on, but the same clothes). I went to look in the Sami shop, but is was still closed. I got my last Euro withdrawal from Otto (the ATM) and went to the Tour Centre. I told the girl on duty there that I would meet Anne’s husband at the SIIDA museum rather than in town, as I would look around first.
On the way back I checked the post office hours (9-17), which is inside the K supermarket. When I passed, the Sami shop was open so I looked inside. The material on sale was very colourful, although little of it is made in Finland. I resisted the temptation to buy anything.
By the time I got to the SIIDA, the weather looked as if it had really close in for the day. Viewing inside the museum seemed the best option, but once inside I found … the schoolchildren again! The teacher I had spoken to wasn’t there (I found out later the group was split and half were white-water rafting, so I suppose he was with them).
For a relatively small museum, it is information-rich. There were two peripheral displays, one on natural Sami food (which made me think of the things from the yard I ate when young, and the natural remedies we used to cure ourselves rather than show parents that we had injured ourselves) and one on Sami handicrafts. These took nearly an hour and a half to see, so I was at the front at just before noon to meet my newer guide, Anne’s husband. His accent is thicker than Anne’s so he was a little harder to understand (so I still don’t know his name) and he was an optometrist in Helsinki before entering this business more than fifteen years ago, but thinks the locals may now accept him.
He showed me the layout of the other exhibit rooms (one showing the history of the Sami people and the area, from the last ice age, with reference points of world events listed also, and the other showing the seasons and the way the Sami live within them) and then left me to go slowly through them. I finished just before 1400 and went down to the show on the Aurora Borealis. Rather than a series of different views of light displays, the show was a series of stills with music and singing behind it, lasting about ten minutes. I think I preferred the show with the fox’s tail creating the lights, as seen in the Rovaniemi museum.
After, I returned to the hotel, collected up what I was going to post home and then went to the post office. I sent four postcards (to those who aren’t on email) and my parcel ended up with a series of stamps, so if anyone wants Finnish stamps, they are available to the first person who asks, but are not available until after I return home.
I returned again to the hotel and met the couple who will be travelling with me tomorrow morning. They are from Sydney and have come here via London, Estonia, Latvia, Moscow, St Petersburg and Helsinki. We chatted for a time about world travels, then they left to walk (it may be clearing slightly) while I went up to process photos, post photos, write my blog and answer some emails. This time I really will try for an early night.
N.B. Some of the photos, shot without flash (museum conditions), may not be as clear as I would have liked, but they will “walk” you around the exhibits and displays.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
3 September
Today I slept in – well, a little. I still woke at 0600, but I rolled over and went back to sleep. Then I arose at 0700 and slowly got myself ready, then checked email, etc., and was down for breakfast at 0800. A few were already halfway through, which augurs well for Friday, when I have to leave at 0800 from the hotel (and I believe there are two other Australians with me).
I had my breakfast, including toast with Vegemite, with a beautiful view out the window of the river. If you look carefully at the early photos for today, you will see the Vegemite snuck into the picture of the breakfast buffet. I could also have real tea, with milk AND WITH BISCUITS! Despite the size of the hotel and the partly homeliness of some of the facilities, it is a really nice place to stay – and very warm, if you want it to be. After breakfast I finished up and rearranged the room, putting the nearly dry washing in a less obvious place to finish drying and then packed for the day.
I was out the front at just before 0900, just as Anne arrived. I am not used to a woman opening the door for me – does this mean I am looking old? We had a good and quick run out to the reindeer farm, with two people from Barcelona TV in tow.
Once out at the farm, I realised there was only the two TV people and myself – how much more exclusive could I get? The two men of the farm were there – the father, who still runs the place and is not great (at lest today) at speaking English, and his son, who will take over the place in a few weeks when his father retires and is a tertiary-educated film maker who worked for Finnish TV in Helsinki before returning with his wife and family to the family property.
We started by going into the reindeer paddock. These reindeer will be working soon, drawing sleds. Each reindeer has a “driver’s licence” of a blue ear-tag, indicating it has been trained. They work up until eleven or so, and then retire to graze out their lives on the property. Reindeer raised for meat don’t fare so well, being slaughtered a lot earlier. The reindeer used for meat and for sled pulling are marked, so they don’t waste energy rutting. The antlers grow new each year, have a strong blood flow (they feel warn to the touch, like fingers) and can grow at up to three centimetres a day (you can almost see them growing). The father struck a tree, the feeding signal, and the reindeer suddenly appeared. We fed them (grain) pellets, which apparently they love. They don’t have large nipping front teeth like horses, so you don’t have to keep you hand flat to stop from being bitten, and they use their lips to pick up the pellets (so your hand gets slobbered all over). Reindeer don’t like being patted as they see it as an annoyance and tense their muscles to try to remove it. Also, the biggest danger to reindeer is not predators, although there are plenty of them – it is car drivers, who kill up to four thousand a year (out of two hundred thousand).
After the reindeer had finished all the pellets (which was quicker than it took to write the description) and the camera-man had got some good shots, we went out and passed by the family hot-tub – with a load of wood an some stoking, the temperature goes up to 38°C and everyone jumps in, with –25°C all around (with champagne for the adults and soft drink for the children).
We then tried reindeer lassoing, after being shown by the father how to do it. Sufficient to say that reindeer are safe from the journalist and me.
We then walked past the food storage shed (up off the ground and went to the traditional dwelling they maintained for singing and eating/drinking. Here we had coffee and learned how the knives and their sheaths are made, as well as (wooden) cups, which we had our coffee in. Then his mother came in and sang, after warming her drum made of reindeer hide and birch. She had a very strong voice and sang very well, which she put down to being made to by her parents from the age of two. Then we went to where he makes his handicrafts. On the short walk over, I found out the difference between snowmobiles and skidoos – none! Skidoo is a proprietary name for a Canadian manufactured snowmobile.
The handicrafts were very well done and were supplemented by pictures of the family (on postcards) and the aurora borealis. These were the best from up to sixty nights of photography per season. After that, we departed, with the TV team going their way and me going to the SIIDA display. Here I got “registered” so I could visit on more than one occasion, and then Anne took me to the first area of the outdoor exhibit.
I had already been to a museum and display of Sami culture (it’s spelt differently in different areas) and there a few of the group expressed dismay that we were not attending another. I now know why – this one, in just the initial outdoor display of buildings brought from elsewhere, took longer to go over than the entire previous museum. If anyone from the tour is reading this blog, look at the SIIDA photos in Scandinavia Day 16 (and 17 when I add them) and you’ll see what I mean. It took over half an hour to go over just this part one of the display (and later in the day, it took me over an hour to go through the rest by myself, and I still have to see inside, tomorrow).
After this I went back into town (five hundred metres or so) and had a quick look at the tour centre (a commercial company run by Anne and her husband) and then set out on a walk around the town.
I went to the first area where handicrafts where made and got some more souvenirs to match those I had bought out at the farm. After that, I just looked – couldn’t afford, in terms of money and weight, to get too much more (plus personal reasons). At the supermarket (and I found out what the Ks are for – K is the basic supermarket, KK has more, KKK has more still and if you see KKKK ou should be able to get almost anything) I got a baguette for lunch and got some twine. Then I walked back to the hotel (another four hundred metres) to deposit what I had bought so I didn’t cart it with me. However I had forgotten and left the items I had bought at the farm on the front seat of the minibus. On the way back to the hotel I saw pipes being put in – insulated pipes, to (I presume) stop the water freezing in winter. While walking I ate the baguette, and then walked around to the quay for the boat tour at 1400. We had decided I would do that today and the inside of the museum tomorrow as rain is forecast for tomorrow.
Around at the quay I looked through the souvenir shop there (surprise, surprise, if you’re reading this, Peter N.) and eventually boarded the boat about 1345. I thought it would be a small passenger list, given the end of the season and all that, but a whole lot piled and …, yes, you guessed it, a school excursion group! Knowing my luck there will be a school excursion on the TransSiberian!
We headed out at 1400 and got short commentaries in a number of languages including, but not limited to, Finnish, German and English. On the way out (we stopped on an island which is sacred to the Sami culture and may soon be off limits to visitors) I was speaking to four people from England – they are touring by car. At the island we all climbed to the top for a good view of Lake Inari (a huge lake) and one of the children dropped a glove, so after returning that I spoke to their teacher. They were Grade Six from Helsinki, staying at an old timber camp – outdoor toilets, water having to be carried, the children having to do the cooking (under supervision) and then taking excursions to the area around them. The teacher thinks it may be his last excursion like this – the toll is mounting! I gave him a koala pin for the classroom.
On the way back, some amazing things happened. In order: I had to tell one of the children to do up her shoelace as she was running up and down stairs with the laces very close to tripping her; the teacher told me all the children could recognise the pin was a koala (and NOT a bear); an Italian lady from Genoa who had heard me speaking of Brancaleone quietly warned me it was Mafia territory (which I knew, but it didn’t worry me, either before or while I was there) and two of the English people knew of the “traffic lights” on the road north of Lincoln (apparently RAF Waddington).
Once on shore I completed the tour of the outdoor exhibits at SIIDA. By the time I finished that it was 1730, so I walked back to town (five minutes), got a drink and then walked back to the hotel. Here I found my souvenirs from the reindeer farm were at Reception, so I thanked the lady (hotel owner) and gave a pin for her and her husband.
Then it was upstairs and process photos, do some washing, upload photos, write this blog and then, eventually, off to bed.
I had my breakfast, including toast with Vegemite, with a beautiful view out the window of the river. If you look carefully at the early photos for today, you will see the Vegemite snuck into the picture of the breakfast buffet. I could also have real tea, with milk AND WITH BISCUITS! Despite the size of the hotel and the partly homeliness of some of the facilities, it is a really nice place to stay – and very warm, if you want it to be. After breakfast I finished up and rearranged the room, putting the nearly dry washing in a less obvious place to finish drying and then packed for the day.
I was out the front at just before 0900, just as Anne arrived. I am not used to a woman opening the door for me – does this mean I am looking old? We had a good and quick run out to the reindeer farm, with two people from Barcelona TV in tow.
Once out at the farm, I realised there was only the two TV people and myself – how much more exclusive could I get? The two men of the farm were there – the father, who still runs the place and is not great (at lest today) at speaking English, and his son, who will take over the place in a few weeks when his father retires and is a tertiary-educated film maker who worked for Finnish TV in Helsinki before returning with his wife and family to the family property.
We started by going into the reindeer paddock. These reindeer will be working soon, drawing sleds. Each reindeer has a “driver’s licence” of a blue ear-tag, indicating it has been trained. They work up until eleven or so, and then retire to graze out their lives on the property. Reindeer raised for meat don’t fare so well, being slaughtered a lot earlier. The reindeer used for meat and for sled pulling are marked, so they don’t waste energy rutting. The antlers grow new each year, have a strong blood flow (they feel warn to the touch, like fingers) and can grow at up to three centimetres a day (you can almost see them growing). The father struck a tree, the feeding signal, and the reindeer suddenly appeared. We fed them (grain) pellets, which apparently they love. They don’t have large nipping front teeth like horses, so you don’t have to keep you hand flat to stop from being bitten, and they use their lips to pick up the pellets (so your hand gets slobbered all over). Reindeer don’t like being patted as they see it as an annoyance and tense their muscles to try to remove it. Also, the biggest danger to reindeer is not predators, although there are plenty of them – it is car drivers, who kill up to four thousand a year (out of two hundred thousand).
After the reindeer had finished all the pellets (which was quicker than it took to write the description) and the camera-man had got some good shots, we went out and passed by the family hot-tub – with a load of wood an some stoking, the temperature goes up to 38°C and everyone jumps in, with –25°C all around (with champagne for the adults and soft drink for the children).
We then tried reindeer lassoing, after being shown by the father how to do it. Sufficient to say that reindeer are safe from the journalist and me.
We then walked past the food storage shed (up off the ground and went to the traditional dwelling they maintained for singing and eating/drinking. Here we had coffee and learned how the knives and their sheaths are made, as well as (wooden) cups, which we had our coffee in. Then his mother came in and sang, after warming her drum made of reindeer hide and birch. She had a very strong voice and sang very well, which she put down to being made to by her parents from the age of two. Then we went to where he makes his handicrafts. On the short walk over, I found out the difference between snowmobiles and skidoos – none! Skidoo is a proprietary name for a Canadian manufactured snowmobile.
The handicrafts were very well done and were supplemented by pictures of the family (on postcards) and the aurora borealis. These were the best from up to sixty nights of photography per season. After that, we departed, with the TV team going their way and me going to the SIIDA display. Here I got “registered” so I could visit on more than one occasion, and then Anne took me to the first area of the outdoor exhibit.
I had already been to a museum and display of Sami culture (it’s spelt differently in different areas) and there a few of the group expressed dismay that we were not attending another. I now know why – this one, in just the initial outdoor display of buildings brought from elsewhere, took longer to go over than the entire previous museum. If anyone from the tour is reading this blog, look at the SIIDA photos in Scandinavia Day 16 (and 17 when I add them) and you’ll see what I mean. It took over half an hour to go over just this part one of the display (and later in the day, it took me over an hour to go through the rest by myself, and I still have to see inside, tomorrow).
After this I went back into town (five hundred metres or so) and had a quick look at the tour centre (a commercial company run by Anne and her husband) and then set out on a walk around the town.
I went to the first area where handicrafts where made and got some more souvenirs to match those I had bought out at the farm. After that, I just looked – couldn’t afford, in terms of money and weight, to get too much more (plus personal reasons). At the supermarket (and I found out what the Ks are for – K is the basic supermarket, KK has more, KKK has more still and if you see KKKK ou should be able to get almost anything) I got a baguette for lunch and got some twine. Then I walked back to the hotel (another four hundred metres) to deposit what I had bought so I didn’t cart it with me. However I had forgotten and left the items I had bought at the farm on the front seat of the minibus. On the way back to the hotel I saw pipes being put in – insulated pipes, to (I presume) stop the water freezing in winter. While walking I ate the baguette, and then walked around to the quay for the boat tour at 1400. We had decided I would do that today and the inside of the museum tomorrow as rain is forecast for tomorrow.
Around at the quay I looked through the souvenir shop there (surprise, surprise, if you’re reading this, Peter N.) and eventually boarded the boat about 1345. I thought it would be a small passenger list, given the end of the season and all that, but a whole lot piled and …, yes, you guessed it, a school excursion group! Knowing my luck there will be a school excursion on the TransSiberian!
We headed out at 1400 and got short commentaries in a number of languages including, but not limited to, Finnish, German and English. On the way out (we stopped on an island which is sacred to the Sami culture and may soon be off limits to visitors) I was speaking to four people from England – they are touring by car. At the island we all climbed to the top for a good view of Lake Inari (a huge lake) and one of the children dropped a glove, so after returning that I spoke to their teacher. They were Grade Six from Helsinki, staying at an old timber camp – outdoor toilets, water having to be carried, the children having to do the cooking (under supervision) and then taking excursions to the area around them. The teacher thinks it may be his last excursion like this – the toll is mounting! I gave him a koala pin for the classroom.
On the way back, some amazing things happened. In order: I had to tell one of the children to do up her shoelace as she was running up and down stairs with the laces very close to tripping her; the teacher told me all the children could recognise the pin was a koala (and NOT a bear); an Italian lady from Genoa who had heard me speaking of Brancaleone quietly warned me it was Mafia territory (which I knew, but it didn’t worry me, either before or while I was there) and two of the English people knew of the “traffic lights” on the road north of Lincoln (apparently RAF Waddington).
Once on shore I completed the tour of the outdoor exhibits at SIIDA. By the time I finished that it was 1730, so I walked back to town (five minutes), got a drink and then walked back to the hotel. Here I found my souvenirs from the reindeer farm were at Reception, so I thanked the lady (hotel owner) and gave a pin for her and her husband.
Then it was upstairs and process photos, do some washing, upload photos, write this blog and then, eventually, off to bed.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
2 September
After a good and long night’s sleep, I was up for breakfast as usual at 0630, but for the first time since arriving Scandinavia, no-one else I knew was. I had my breakfast, sumptuous, as it was from the wide selection available, and was back to my room by 0715.
I did a few things to tidy up and then enquired at the desk about checking out. I could leave my luggage and pick it up, so I went back to the room, finished packing (and checking that I had left nothing) and then checked out. I left both the suitcase and the backpack so I had the minimum to carry and went out to ride the N. 6 tram into town. Here I changed to the No. 7 tram for a run through new territory. The actual suburbs were along the same lines but each had its unique features.
Housing was mainly in four or five story apartment blocks, which had either garages, retail or commercial premises on the ground floor and a limited number of entrances (the number and A, B and C, depending on the number. Some had vehicular entrances through to parking within a courtyard. Many had restricted pedestrian paths through to garden and play areas within the courtyard. Where the terrain limited building because of solid rock, there were garden or play areas and in one place, an off-lead area for dogs, where all the dogs stood around barking at each other or just ignoring each other while owners chatted.
I changed back onto a No. 8 tram an found its terminus was just at the back of the hotel. However I wanted to get some exercise so I took the tram into town and then walked to the National Museum (closed until 1100 and it was 1020 now). I went and took my trade to the Natural History Museum which opened at 1000. This was very interesting, though quite small. There were displays on the beginnings of life, “bones” where I saw the skeletons of kangaroos and echidnas and “Seasons in Finland” which had displays depicting the appearance of Finland in each season, showing the countryside and the animals. Here I found the deer I hit in France was actually called a European Roe and was full-grown. I also came across a backpack which a schoolchild had left on the floor. I told their teacher and one of the children rushed back to grab it. Another display was of insects found in homes – they must breed cockroaches big up here, which you’ll see if you look at the photos for today (and if I can ever get the photos up – but having now had some time to read my schedule there is certainly Internet access at St Petersburg – and at the airport, but I’m not quite prepared to pay €5 [nearly AUD9] for an hour).
As I left the museum I met the class again. I spoke to the teacher again and she said the children visit the museum as they rarely see animals. I gave her a koala pin for the classroom and explained it was opal in it.
Unfortunately the spell of fine weather had finished. Rain had set in and I went back to the city centre and then walked back to the hotel via the supermarket. I wanted some string, as well as other things, for some security while travelling overnight by train. I couldn’t find any, but hope that strong ribbon will do the same (otherwise anyone contemplating taking my things will laugh so much I will hear them).
Back at the hotel it was that annoying time – too long to do nothing, but too short to do anything. So I did the Scandinavian thing and listened to ABBA on the iPod. 1415 arrived and I picked up my luggage and went to the front of the hotel just as an airport taxi pulled up (I had booked it last night and thought the added cost would be worth is, and with the rain it turned out I was correct). A quick confirmation of the room number I was in (333) and we were off (well, after my suitcase and backpack and me went in). I think I struck the only Senegal musician who drives taxis in Helsinki and talks at full volume all the time. With a commentary on the differences between Senegal, Finland and Australia, the time to the airport soon went and I was ready for yet another of my eleven flights.
When I put my suitcase in, I had forgotten to take the travel books out and put them in my pack, so the suitcase was over the twenty kilogram limit. With a stern warning and a twinkle in her eye, the counter attendant let it go through. Then, of course, was the security check. After all the times of being good, I had forgotten that I had an old coke bottle with some water in it. That got chucked, but then I set off the detectors and had to go through the “very near strip search” routine. Finally I was through – nearly ten minutes!
Walking up to the entry gate (20b) I was spotted by two couples who were heading off on other flights – like old friends after a fortnight together! A quick chat, their plane was loading and I went off. I found a place to sit, but no power, so I continued with ABBA. Then one power point became free, so I moved to that and started writing up today’s blog. A family with a very young girl sat next to me and I got goos from the child and made faces to her while trying to write. My plane was called, so I quickly packed up and even got a wave from the whole family.
I got my ID checked but then it wasn’t onto the plane – simply down to a lounge downstairs to wait for a bus. Before I thought planes had taxied back to the city I had left, but when we got onto the bus I thought it wsa taking me back to Helsinki. The plane was at the other end of the airport! We boarded (the Flying Finn is the name for passengers in the scramble to get seats!) and then we taxied to the other end of the airport before we could take off. Even there we had a delay of over twenty-five minutes – ostensibly a problem with the computer controlling the radar gear in the plane. Finally we were off and headed north – to Kittali! It was a commuter run – Helsinki to Kittali to Ivalo and back to Helsinki. We got our packed meal – a bread roll, which looked more like flat bread with lettuce and cheese inside. I didn’t have a drink of tea as getting out of the seat to go to the toilet looked like a difficult manoeuvre, plus the descent started twenty minutes before we landed. Here also, for the first time ever, I got told to switch off my camera on the descent (amazing as I took pictures on two other Finnair flights two weeks ago while descending and landing without any comment being made). At Kittali most passengers got off, then we had a security check of all items on the plane, then as many boarded again. We didn’t even hit cruising altitude before we were descending into Ivalo – now nearly an hour and a half late!
After this, all things became better. I was met by Anna from Inari Event Lapland, holding my name up. After a short wait for my luggage, we were off in the company minivan (just me!). On the drive into Ivalo and then onto Inari Anne gave me a quick rundown on what we were to be doing and pointed out sights. I contrasted the situation here to that in Australia (she has been out, for a week) and I learned a lot about the local area in a short time. Soon we were at the hotel where I checked in (it has wireless Internet, but it’s not successful in the room) and a TOASTER for breakfast. Breakfast starts at 0800 and I have to be ready by 0900 – I think I will make it.
I’m just going to try downstairs to update the blog, send a bulk email and post some pictures, then I will be off to bed – it’s 2200 already!
I did a few things to tidy up and then enquired at the desk about checking out. I could leave my luggage and pick it up, so I went back to the room, finished packing (and checking that I had left nothing) and then checked out. I left both the suitcase and the backpack so I had the minimum to carry and went out to ride the N. 6 tram into town. Here I changed to the No. 7 tram for a run through new territory. The actual suburbs were along the same lines but each had its unique features.
Housing was mainly in four or five story apartment blocks, which had either garages, retail or commercial premises on the ground floor and a limited number of entrances (the number and A, B and C, depending on the number. Some had vehicular entrances through to parking within a courtyard. Many had restricted pedestrian paths through to garden and play areas within the courtyard. Where the terrain limited building because of solid rock, there were garden or play areas and in one place, an off-lead area for dogs, where all the dogs stood around barking at each other or just ignoring each other while owners chatted.
I changed back onto a No. 8 tram an found its terminus was just at the back of the hotel. However I wanted to get some exercise so I took the tram into town and then walked to the National Museum (closed until 1100 and it was 1020 now). I went and took my trade to the Natural History Museum which opened at 1000. This was very interesting, though quite small. There were displays on the beginnings of life, “bones” where I saw the skeletons of kangaroos and echidnas and “Seasons in Finland” which had displays depicting the appearance of Finland in each season, showing the countryside and the animals. Here I found the deer I hit in France was actually called a European Roe and was full-grown. I also came across a backpack which a schoolchild had left on the floor. I told their teacher and one of the children rushed back to grab it. Another display was of insects found in homes – they must breed cockroaches big up here, which you’ll see if you look at the photos for today (and if I can ever get the photos up – but having now had some time to read my schedule there is certainly Internet access at St Petersburg – and at the airport, but I’m not quite prepared to pay €5 [nearly AUD9] for an hour).
As I left the museum I met the class again. I spoke to the teacher again and she said the children visit the museum as they rarely see animals. I gave her a koala pin for the classroom and explained it was opal in it.
Unfortunately the spell of fine weather had finished. Rain had set in and I went back to the city centre and then walked back to the hotel via the supermarket. I wanted some string, as well as other things, for some security while travelling overnight by train. I couldn’t find any, but hope that strong ribbon will do the same (otherwise anyone contemplating taking my things will laugh so much I will hear them).
Back at the hotel it was that annoying time – too long to do nothing, but too short to do anything. So I did the Scandinavian thing and listened to ABBA on the iPod. 1415 arrived and I picked up my luggage and went to the front of the hotel just as an airport taxi pulled up (I had booked it last night and thought the added cost would be worth is, and with the rain it turned out I was correct). A quick confirmation of the room number I was in (333) and we were off (well, after my suitcase and backpack and me went in). I think I struck the only Senegal musician who drives taxis in Helsinki and talks at full volume all the time. With a commentary on the differences between Senegal, Finland and Australia, the time to the airport soon went and I was ready for yet another of my eleven flights.
When I put my suitcase in, I had forgotten to take the travel books out and put them in my pack, so the suitcase was over the twenty kilogram limit. With a stern warning and a twinkle in her eye, the counter attendant let it go through. Then, of course, was the security check. After all the times of being good, I had forgotten that I had an old coke bottle with some water in it. That got chucked, but then I set off the detectors and had to go through the “very near strip search” routine. Finally I was through – nearly ten minutes!
Walking up to the entry gate (20b) I was spotted by two couples who were heading off on other flights – like old friends after a fortnight together! A quick chat, their plane was loading and I went off. I found a place to sit, but no power, so I continued with ABBA. Then one power point became free, so I moved to that and started writing up today’s blog. A family with a very young girl sat next to me and I got goos from the child and made faces to her while trying to write. My plane was called, so I quickly packed up and even got a wave from the whole family.
I got my ID checked but then it wasn’t onto the plane – simply down to a lounge downstairs to wait for a bus. Before I thought planes had taxied back to the city I had left, but when we got onto the bus I thought it wsa taking me back to Helsinki. The plane was at the other end of the airport! We boarded (the Flying Finn is the name for passengers in the scramble to get seats!) and then we taxied to the other end of the airport before we could take off. Even there we had a delay of over twenty-five minutes – ostensibly a problem with the computer controlling the radar gear in the plane. Finally we were off and headed north – to Kittali! It was a commuter run – Helsinki to Kittali to Ivalo and back to Helsinki. We got our packed meal – a bread roll, which looked more like flat bread with lettuce and cheese inside. I didn’t have a drink of tea as getting out of the seat to go to the toilet looked like a difficult manoeuvre, plus the descent started twenty minutes before we landed. Here also, for the first time ever, I got told to switch off my camera on the descent (amazing as I took pictures on two other Finnair flights two weeks ago while descending and landing without any comment being made). At Kittali most passengers got off, then we had a security check of all items on the plane, then as many boarded again. We didn’t even hit cruising altitude before we were descending into Ivalo – now nearly an hour and a half late!
After this, all things became better. I was met by Anna from Inari Event Lapland, holding my name up. After a short wait for my luggage, we were off in the company minivan (just me!). On the drive into Ivalo and then onto Inari Anne gave me a quick rundown on what we were to be doing and pointed out sights. I contrasted the situation here to that in Australia (she has been out, for a week) and I learned a lot about the local area in a short time. Soon we were at the hotel where I checked in (it has wireless Internet, but it’s not successful in the room) and a TOASTER for breakfast. Breakfast starts at 0800 and I have to be ready by 0900 – I think I will make it.
I’m just going to try downstairs to update the blog, send a bulk email and post some pictures, then I will be off to bed – it’s 2200 already!
Monday, September 1, 2008
1 September
Ah, all times come to an end.
This morning I rose and performed the normal ablutions, and was then down for breakfast at 0630. All the usual crew turned up, except that Tosh didn’t – she was already on her way back home, having started at the earlier time of 0345. The couple from India were brief with their breakfast as they were the first to leave, then a few others were able to linger as they left later. I went up to try uploading photos again but still had no luck. For some reason, the upload freezes on the first photo at the 68k mark (they are usually 200-300k) and then the program quits. I hope it is just through the hotel here, but I will keep trying anyway.
I was back down in the lobby at just after 1000 and said goodbye to the majority, who were leaving to return via Copenhagen and Tokyo. As they went on the bus, I went on the tram, got my day ticket to wander (which is valid for twenty-four hours from time of issue) and went into town on the No. 6 tram. I wanted to get some more money and change money into Roubles, so I got some more Euros and went to the Money Change and got a few Roubles for my foray into Russia. On the way I saw the bus going by, so waved and got seen and then got a few responses.
Then I went out on the No. 10 tram and saw some familiar sights and a lot more new ones. At the terminus, I indicated to the driver that I would be staying on and he let me pose for some photos in the cab of the tram. So I got to drive while away – but a Helsinki tram, not a car or bus (yet!). I gave him a pin and he gave me a voucher for a cheap Hesburger meal (more later).
I went back into town and then went around on a No. 3 tram. I had been advised by another passenger that that was the most scenic route. Back into town by about 1330, I went and redeemed the voucher (and €6.70) for a €8.50 Biiiiig Hes meal. It nearly defeated me and I had to stop a number of times – my only consolation was that it was most likely the last time I will have such a meal before I get home (partly because the breakfasts have made me put on weight and I have to lose that).
Then I called in at the Post Office to find out about posting my SuperMoose and horse home. I got the box (I find that each country has different size and closing requirements, so it’s both easier and lighter to buy them in the country they are being sent home from) which I thought would suit, then returned to the hotel to find … a post office one hundred metres west! I parcelled everything up and went to the post office with the Customs Declaration filled out and found it was actually cheaper than the central office quoted. It should arrive at Fran’s place before the end of September.
Then I went back to town and rode the No. 4 tram around. By the time I finished that, I was feeling tired so came back to the hotel, tried to upload the photos (agh, still no luck, but I have posted a picture saying that I have them and will be trying) and processed today’s, did some washing (I hope it will dry before the morning) and wrote up this blog. I am determined to get to sleep early so I will be refreshed for the next section.
I will be going up to Inari and then Murmansk. I have no idea again of Internet access, but given the situation so far I am hopeful. However, if I am not, there will be a lot at one point – I arrive in St Petersburg on 18 September and will be phoning my sister each Sunday afternoon (Adelaide time) and am sure I will get some form of access by then (I go via Moscow, train from Murmansk overnight, and then a cruise along the Volga to St Petersburg). If not, then it will be bulk emails when I can access a terminal. My email is dougmullett@gmail.com if you want to get in touch.
Bye for tonight!
This morning I rose and performed the normal ablutions, and was then down for breakfast at 0630. All the usual crew turned up, except that Tosh didn’t – she was already on her way back home, having started at the earlier time of 0345. The couple from India were brief with their breakfast as they were the first to leave, then a few others were able to linger as they left later. I went up to try uploading photos again but still had no luck. For some reason, the upload freezes on the first photo at the 68k mark (they are usually 200-300k) and then the program quits. I hope it is just through the hotel here, but I will keep trying anyway.
I was back down in the lobby at just after 1000 and said goodbye to the majority, who were leaving to return via Copenhagen and Tokyo. As they went on the bus, I went on the tram, got my day ticket to wander (which is valid for twenty-four hours from time of issue) and went into town on the No. 6 tram. I wanted to get some more money and change money into Roubles, so I got some more Euros and went to the Money Change and got a few Roubles for my foray into Russia. On the way I saw the bus going by, so waved and got seen and then got a few responses.
Then I went out on the No. 10 tram and saw some familiar sights and a lot more new ones. At the terminus, I indicated to the driver that I would be staying on and he let me pose for some photos in the cab of the tram. So I got to drive while away – but a Helsinki tram, not a car or bus (yet!). I gave him a pin and he gave me a voucher for a cheap Hesburger meal (more later).
I went back into town and then went around on a No. 3 tram. I had been advised by another passenger that that was the most scenic route. Back into town by about 1330, I went and redeemed the voucher (and €6.70) for a €8.50 Biiiiig Hes meal. It nearly defeated me and I had to stop a number of times – my only consolation was that it was most likely the last time I will have such a meal before I get home (partly because the breakfasts have made me put on weight and I have to lose that).
Then I called in at the Post Office to find out about posting my SuperMoose and horse home. I got the box (I find that each country has different size and closing requirements, so it’s both easier and lighter to buy them in the country they are being sent home from) which I thought would suit, then returned to the hotel to find … a post office one hundred metres west! I parcelled everything up and went to the post office with the Customs Declaration filled out and found it was actually cheaper than the central office quoted. It should arrive at Fran’s place before the end of September.
Then I went back to town and rode the No. 4 tram around. By the time I finished that, I was feeling tired so came back to the hotel, tried to upload the photos (agh, still no luck, but I have posted a picture saying that I have them and will be trying) and processed today’s, did some washing (I hope it will dry before the morning) and wrote up this blog. I am determined to get to sleep early so I will be refreshed for the next section.
I will be going up to Inari and then Murmansk. I have no idea again of Internet access, but given the situation so far I am hopeful. However, if I am not, there will be a lot at one point – I arrive in St Petersburg on 18 September and will be phoning my sister each Sunday afternoon (Adelaide time) and am sure I will get some form of access by then (I go via Moscow, train from Murmansk overnight, and then a cruise along the Volga to St Petersburg). If not, then it will be bulk emails when I can access a terminal. My email is dougmullett@gmail.com if you want to get in touch.
Bye for tonight!
Sunday, August 31, 2008
31 August
After an interesting night (with three others in the cabin and them coming in at different time3), I got up at about 0630, had a shower (at least it was bigger than in a train), dressed and was down for breakfast just after 0700. Slight problem – breakfast was not on until 0730. However, the early crew whiled the time away and we were in as soon as it opened.
The selection was up to the standard of all the others, but naturally they have to carry the food, so some was prepared earlier or carried frozen, so there were differences. As I didn’t have access to my suitcase, no VEGEMITE on toast for me! I had to make do with bacon and scrambled eggs, cereal and bread with ham and cheese.
After, I was able to take photos as we entered Helsinki. I had someone point out the fort and the path we took to the terminal. I also met some of the volunteer firemen from last night – a few sore heads!
We were all down at the Information Desk at the appointed time and slowly trooped off and very soon we were on the bus but now with a local Helsinki guide. She took us (on the bus) to different places, including the city streets and shops, our hotel, the beach (small, but sufficient), a monument to Sibelius, the Rock Church and many other sights including markets, squares and parks. After what seemed like a few minutes but was really nearly three hours we stopped at the Senate Square and most of us went for a walking exploration of whatever interested us within the city area. A few went straight back to the hotel with the luggage.
It was amazing running into various ones of the forty of us (well, thirty-nine others) at different spots around the town. What made sightseeing in some spots so hard was the number of cruise ships in town (apparently this is the last day of the season) and so tourist buses were everywhere. I had a look down the main shopping street, around the corner (a few names and places tickled my fancy, as I thought they were out of place) and along to the market place near the quay. Here I saw an interesting interchange where a customer was trying to taste berries, the man didn’t mind but the woman on the stall came along saying, “No, no!” and waving her finger. I also saw a “statue” and gave him some Swedish coins (as did another from the tour) and he bowed, I took a photo and he was so gracious I gave him a koala pin. Then I got engaged in conversation with a Finnish lady with an English accent, but she had lived in England for a few years.
I walked back to the Senate Square, and had a look in the cathedral there, then we all caught the bus back to the hotel. Here we got our keys (and I got my Internet card) and went up to rooms, so I checked my mail (a little), posted a blog (okay), processed my photos from yesterday (okay) and tried to upload them to Flickr. Alas, it kept stalling on the first one. Time after time I tried, but no luck. Eventually I gave up and had a shower and changed, and went down for our final meeting at 1830. Here we got arrangements for tomorrow (for me easy, I stay another night) and then said farewell to all others on the trip as some are leaving early, some are leaving at different times and some of us will be departing at odd times to different places.
I went back up, wrote this up (even though I’m probably going out for a little after) and posted it. I will keep trying with the photos!
The selection was up to the standard of all the others, but naturally they have to carry the food, so some was prepared earlier or carried frozen, so there were differences. As I didn’t have access to my suitcase, no VEGEMITE on toast for me! I had to make do with bacon and scrambled eggs, cereal and bread with ham and cheese.
After, I was able to take photos as we entered Helsinki. I had someone point out the fort and the path we took to the terminal. I also met some of the volunteer firemen from last night – a few sore heads!
We were all down at the Information Desk at the appointed time and slowly trooped off and very soon we were on the bus but now with a local Helsinki guide. She took us (on the bus) to different places, including the city streets and shops, our hotel, the beach (small, but sufficient), a monument to Sibelius, the Rock Church and many other sights including markets, squares and parks. After what seemed like a few minutes but was really nearly three hours we stopped at the Senate Square and most of us went for a walking exploration of whatever interested us within the city area. A few went straight back to the hotel with the luggage.
It was amazing running into various ones of the forty of us (well, thirty-nine others) at different spots around the town. What made sightseeing in some spots so hard was the number of cruise ships in town (apparently this is the last day of the season) and so tourist buses were everywhere. I had a look down the main shopping street, around the corner (a few names and places tickled my fancy, as I thought they were out of place) and along to the market place near the quay. Here I saw an interesting interchange where a customer was trying to taste berries, the man didn’t mind but the woman on the stall came along saying, “No, no!” and waving her finger. I also saw a “statue” and gave him some Swedish coins (as did another from the tour) and he bowed, I took a photo and he was so gracious I gave him a koala pin. Then I got engaged in conversation with a Finnish lady with an English accent, but she had lived in England for a few years.
I walked back to the Senate Square, and had a look in the cathedral there, then we all caught the bus back to the hotel. Here we got our keys (and I got my Internet card) and went up to rooms, so I checked my mail (a little), posted a blog (okay), processed my photos from yesterday (okay) and tried to upload them to Flickr. Alas, it kept stalling on the first one. Time after time I tried, but no luck. Eventually I gave up and had a shower and changed, and went down for our final meeting at 1830. Here we got arrangements for tomorrow (for me easy, I stay another night) and then said farewell to all others on the trip as some are leaving early, some are leaving at different times and some of us will be departing at odd times to different places.
I went back up, wrote this up (even though I’m probably going out for a little after) and posted it. I will keep trying with the photos!
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