Thursday, November 20, 2008

6 November

We had a quiet day today, so I got up at 0700 and brought the washing in. Hanging outside had allowed it all to dry, so for once I was up with all the laundry.
After showering and dressing, it was down for another leisurely breakfast, with the occasional chat to some who I had met last night. We headed out at 1000 to Agiba Beach, where reputedly Cleopatra and Mark Anthony had their dalliances. It was deserted apart from us tourists and the scene was both inspiring because of the history and breathtaking because of the beauty.
After a time there, we headed back into town to visit Rommel’s cave and museum. Again we had our policeman guard with us and we stopped just out of town to see the cave on our right. We went through (it is only small and has little inside except an ambience) and then were able to see the town to our south. We were on a spit extending to the west, whereas the spit the hotel was on extended to the east. There were still concrete blocks on the beach, whether recent or from WWII.
We then headed back into town for shopping again (for lunch supplies) before we went back to the hotel. I decided to walk over to Cleopatra’s Beach (which was to the west of where I had walked the day before). It was about six hundred metres to the west and a lot nicer beach, though there was a lot of rock there. After a few photos, and another greeting from the builder, I went back to the hotel.
This time I had trouble with the Internet connection and found Jon, another on the same tour, was having problems too. We spent most of the afternoon trying to get through (unsuccessfully) and ended up chatting away, and with others passing by as well. Then it was down to the beach for yet another glorious sunset before dinner. Here, as we finished, we noted our details for a contact sheet and also filled in details for Cosmos. I got my laptop and showed pictures I had taken earlier in the day and then showed others pictures of Australia. I also chatted with others who were on a “Battlefield” tour, including the lady who had spread her father’s ashes.
Back in my room by 2200, I processed the rest of the photos but resigned myself to not being able to upload them. I also did washing of today’s clothes, and so will not have to launder again until I get home. Then it was to sleep.

5 November

Today was the day we left Alexandria, so it was up earlier at 0530, prepare and pack everything, then shower and dress and, with the suitcase out before 0630, I was down for breakfast. After a more leisurely breakfast than I really wanted, it was back to the room, finish and then pack the backpack and check the room.
Down in the lobby and waiting, I ran into an Italian man here on business as he left (and then again, when he had forgotten some papers and had to return and then leave again), so we said goodbye. Then it was a matter of sighting the luggage and it was packed into the bus. Our first trip was not too long – just over the road, but a nearly two kilometre long journey by the time we came out, drove along and then had to turn around at the first break to return to the Montaza Royal Palace grounds (just opposite the hotel). We had a drive inside, then stopped to stretch and take some photographs before a final drive through Alexandria before we left, heading west along the Mediterranean coast. One point had to be clarified – no lunch today as we had it yesterday, and that made for more sensible travelling, as there weren’t any suitable venues along the way.
We set off along the coast to see many resorts there, between the road and the beach. The towns were generally south of the road, in the more arid area, while the resorts were in the areas with what looked like attractive beaches, though we couldn’t really see them. The resorts were self-contained, with shopping areas inside, as well as all facilities, but they were closed for the winter. Some were for foreigners, but most were for better-off Egyptians from Cairo. Apparently some were for women, with all female staff.
We arrived at El Alamein later in the morning, where there was a war cemetery, a small museum and, only a short distance away, more resorts. It seemed incongruous to have this monument to such fierce battles now within close proximity to pleasure places. But, such is the way of the world.
At the museum we had a short recorded commentary on the chronology of the battles in the area, then wandered around to have a look. The vehicles outside had been painted, but otherwise neglected, and signs showed that native English speakers had not proof-read them.
After leaving the museum, we went to the War Cemetery and had some time there. The significance varied depending upon how this area fitted into family history, but it was a moving experience to see the graves out in this barren land. There was a monument to Australian soldiers just outside the cemetery.
We returned to the main road and then continued on towards Marsa Matrouh (the spelling varies depending upon which signs are read). Before we entered into the area, we stopped to pick up a policeman to travel in the bus with us (he was in plain clothes, but had an Uzi under his jacket and a few spare magazines on the other side). We also had a police escort and then stopped in the town to get any supplies we needed, as the hotel was a far distance from town and not the cheapest for things. We drove out to the hotel, quite a nice place, which had a few next to it being completed (and along our drive in the morning, there were a lot of resort still not completed). Here we unloaded from the bus, tagged our luggage in the lobby and then had the afternoon free.
Success for me – I found there was WiFi (but only in the cafe and lobby) FREE!
After settling in I walked over the road to see the beach – not much sand, but very scenic rocks and, judging by the people there, good fishing. I took a few photos, came back (meeting a friendly native along the way, who I found out later was a builder on the site next door) and then uploaded some photos. The connection was not too fast, but allowed my to upload my blogs and some photos.
Just before sunset I went down to the beach and chatted with others, while getting some good shots of the sun across the inlet. The hotel was on the north side of an inlet, with the town on the south and east side.
After that it was dinner, and then the chance to upload a few more photos. At this time I spoke to a few people going past and one was the friend of a woman who was out here to spread her father’s ashes in the position where his whole unit (except him) were killed by one shell. His wishes were that when he died, he would be able to be with his mates where they died.
Quite late I went off to bed, with washing hanging out on the line provided.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

4 November

Today was the day in Alexandria, so I was awake at 0545, finally up at 0600 and, after the usual preparations, I was down for breakfast by 0630. After a very leisurely breakfast I was back up at 0745 to finish preparations and be down for the bus at 0755. We finally left at 0810 and headed off – to the right for a kilometre past the palace to do a U-turn and go back past the hotel. We drove through the city and did a tour before arriving at the catacombs, where there were no photos allowed. We went down into one burial area, currently believed to be that of one family and then had a look at another tomb which had been moved there, before we headed off through back streets with a banana to eat until we arrived at Pompey’s pillar (the tale here proved the pillar needed to get a head to be famous). After the story of that, we looked around the site of the temple, medical area and library. We then progressed to the Fort of Qait, where we heard about the lighthouse(s) and the fort consequently constructed here. The waterfront was lined with souvenir sellers who can best be described as treating each other with animosity. I got a few things to give out when I got home (so I can’t say what they were or cost, in case a reader gets one). We left and had lunch at a seafood restaurant. While waiting we had a persistent carpet salesman who refused to give in despite nonsensical queries from some people and eventually sold two carpets to one of our number. There was also a good view of the fishing fleet, at anchor during the day.
After the lunch, Hesham got a call and we soon learned that Bob’s luggage had been found and should be at the hotel tonight.
Pur next stop was the Alexandria library, where we had a tour and look around. I succumbed to temptation at the library shop and bought a book about the Cairo Museum, which we had only had a cursory look around despite the interesting material there. It’s quite heavy, so I’ll have to carry it as reading material on the flight home.
It was then a quick drive back to the hotel and more bananas were distributed along the way.
At the hotel I went up to my room to get rid of superfluous material, then went for a walk with Sue and Lynn along the beachfront. Along the way we ran into Fifi and Joelle, and we all went to the supermarket to look around. I got some stuff there, then had a coffee with Sue and chips after Lynn had bought some (she made me have them). Then, after dark and with a good breeze, we went back to the hotel. I went to my room, processed the day’s photos and partially wrote my blogs, then went to sleep (some of the washing was not yet dry).

Thursday, November 6, 2008

3 November

Today was a moving day, so it was up at 0600 and pack (making sure the suitcase was out before 0700) and then down for breakfast at 0630. The breakfast room/restaurant we used today was the public one, so we were assigned the “smoking area”.
After breakfast it was back to the room, finish packing and do the last check (something I will not miss when I am back home) and out to the lobby.
Here we have to check our bags are out and are ours before they are packed on the bus. Any unidentified luggage doesn’t come. The only problem for our part was that Bob’s luggage hadn’t come yet, and we were into the third day.
On our way out, we called in to visit Saladin’s citadel, where the main thing we saw was the Muhammad Ali Mosque, which is still being used. Here Hesham went through a number of points abut the Muslim religion. We had a little time to photograph the old city from here before we went back to the bus, this time under David’s supervision. He lost a few, so promptly lost that position).
Then it was through old Cairo and into the Coptic area, to see the first church there, the Virgin Mary crypt (where Joseph, Mary and Jesus were reputed to have sheltered during Herod’s proclaimed period) and then onto a synagogue (no photos at either), which had also been a church before being restored to use.
The logic of photos or no photos escapes me at the moment, but I may understand it later (or at least rant more about it later).
We headed off to Soiree’s for lunch. While waiting in line, a woman upstairs kept gesturing that the food wasn’t very good. However, once we were in and seated, then examined the buffet, it was okay. A feature is that mos tof the places we have eaten have mainly western European food, perhaps because of their clientele, though some of our number would like to taste authentic Egyptian cuisine. I’m not fussy because I haven’t had a stomach upset and will try not to have one.
After lunch we set off through Cairo and to a papyrus institute, where we got a demonstration of how papyrus is made and then a show of what sorts of papyrus are available.
Once we finished there, it was off to Alexandria along the “Desert Highway”.
There was a lot of development beside the road and I couldn’t believe how much water was going to be used there. Also, unlike Turkey, there didn’t seem to be a lot of use of solar power, although our guide assured us it was being used extensively. We drove into darkness after seeing the setting sun and arrived at Alexandria about 1930. After identifying the luggage, we went to our rooms for me to do some washing. It was down for dinner at 2000 and then I walked to the supermarket for a look around, with Bob and Devika. Bob’s luggage still hadn’t come, so he was looking for clothes and a temporary bag. Soon it was back to the hotel and I enquired about the Internet, but I decided it was a no-no because of the cost and time (if the connection cuts out before all the photos load, then none load!).
Back in the room, I processed all the photos, did some more washing and then went to bed too late to write my blog for the day (it got done in Mansa Matrouh).

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

2 November

Today it was up at 0630 and the first thing I noticed was that the clothes were not yet dry – a consequence of running the air conditioner. Either the clothes get warm and dry or I get too warm and dry and don’t sleep well.
After the usual preparations I was down for breakfast by 0700, when I sat with a couple from Sydney and then, after they left, with Lynn, Sue, Devika and Bob
In the restaurant we started a briefing after 0800 which did not finish until 0905. We met our tour guide Hesham, but we were all ready to go. Because of all the delays, the bus was not off until 0935.
We set off through Cairo traffic and finally reached the Cairo museum by 1030. Here we waited, got our tickets and our briefing (we already knew no photos, so there aren’t any) we were in by 1100.
We had a guided tour until 1230 but the remaining hour was only long enough to wander past all the exhibits on the ground floor before we had to be out by 1300. We were soon on the bus and had falafels for lunch on the bus on our way to the pyramids.
Once we arrived at the pyramids we had to undergo checks then walked to the base of the first pyramid and a chance to climb a little way to get our photos. In a way I am glad that we couldn’t go any higher, as I think millions of tourists would do what time and the desert sands couldn’t. We headed off to the panorama view where we had a group photo and a few had camel rides. Then it was off to the second pyramid by 1610 and we had a look around while some went inside. This I didn’t do because eof my reservations about irreparably damaging something so precious.
We finally headed off to the sphinx; but it was closed by the time we got there. I managed to get around to the side to get some photos, which proved very expensive as it cost me forty Egyptian pounds to get there to take them. We then went to a (pricey) souvenir shop and finally ended up at a small market-type shop, “Got to Run” to shop for drinks and small requisites. Finally we were back to the hotel in time to get ready for dinner and download pictures, charge batteries and clean my shoes.
By 1840 I was down and sat with David and Tina and Sue and English couple while waiting for the bus. We were off at 1915 for Nile cruise with dinner. As soon as we arrived at 2000, the boat was off. It was a good dinner and there was a great view of Cairo as we went along the Nile. There was music followed by a belly dancer (who got a number up to dance with her, much to the amusement of thee rest of the audience). She was followed by a Dervish dancer who performed some miraculous routines and, far too soon, we docked at 2150. We were back at the hotel by 2215 after which I prepared for bed, summarised blog, processed photos and was finally in bed by 2330.

1 November

I slept in, although it wasn’t quite as satisfying as I would have hoped as I had the iPod in my ears all night to mask the traffic noise. Then, just after 0800 I was up and prepared myself for the coming day, heading over to breakfast at 0830.
There was a very wide selection, including toast, so I could enjoy my Vegemite in its proper environment. I took some time over eating, as the day until 1300 is very limited. The weather outside is slightly humid (I hoped that it would have been dry), the traffic on the freeway is providing a cacophony of noise but the people staying here are not prone to answering either a “Hello” or a “G’day”. It seems the larger the place, the more reserved the people are.
Just on that, this place offers a “turn-down service” by request. I really can’t think of anyone, except disabled, who really need such a service. When it happened on the Moscow – St Petersburg cruise, I couldn’t help thinking what a waste of time and effort. It is different on trains such as the Ghan and the Indian-Pacific, where your seat during the day becomes your bed overnight and the staff turn it down and prepare it while you are eating.
Now at 1000 I have repacked (again unnecessary if I had been staying as planned) and will wander around later.
After a look around I read my Lonely Planet guide to Turkey until about 1130 and then checked out and left my bags at the luggage area ad kept reading until about 1250, whereupon I wandered back and got my bags out. At this stage I met two ladies from New Zealand who were in the same position as myself – they had booked in early, to the hotel we were to leave from, so they could settle in, explore the area and become familiar with the surrounds. At 1300 we were all ready to leave. And at 1400 we were all ready to leave. And at 1425 we were all ready to leave. However, still no transport. I rang the number in the Cosmos booklet but received a nonsensical reply. I asked the desk to try – they found it was a wrong number. I asked if they could chase it up (from the booking details for all of us) and ten minutes later they had the correct number. Walleed (I think) then said it would be a few minutes as the car had been involved in an accident. By about 1440 the car and Walleed turned up. We all got in and then were driven a back way to the hotel we should have been in (which turned out to only be about seven hundred metres from the hotel we had been in). Here we quickly got out, were checked in and went to our rooms. I asked about Internet access (buy time at so many Egyptian pounds per hour – no thank you) and the lady I had promised to meet and was told the room she was in (tried to ring – no answer and tried to knock – no answer) so ended up going for a walk. Somehow I ended up being shown around the block by a perfume salesman. Although the perfume was nice, I wasn’t after any, but (surprise, surprise) they did have a papyrus shop next door. The prices seemed reasonable, so I got some for Fran. Then I wandered back to the hotel to find Devika (the lady I had promised to meet) waiting in the lobby, as she had checked and found I still wasn’t checked in (when I was, two hours before). She saw my papyrus and wanted some, so we went out there to the same shop. On the way we went up to a cafĂ© on the balcony of either this or the hotel next door, where the pyramids were the only background visible. At the shop she selected some papyrus and then was convinced to have a look at the perfumes. To my surprise I ended up buying some, and some small shaped bottles, so there are some who will get them as filled perfume bottles, most likely as a hand-delivered present.
The saving grace was I got a free drink of coke each time, and am now looked on by them as a “middle-man”.
Back at the hotel Sue and Lyn had not checked in (as far as we could find out, so we chatted while keeping an eye out for them. By 1900 they still had not arrived so we went in to have dinner – and ended up with Bob from Georgia, who had done seven Cosmos tours already and now was about to start his eighth. After a pleasant dinner, we all retried and I did some washing (second-last I hope) and then went to bed, to listen to some music and get a good night’s sleep.

31 October

Blog 31 October

Today – a day with so much promise and so little fulfilled!

I followed my routine and was up at 0625 and prepared and down for breakfast at 0700. During breakfast many goodbyes were said and many promises made (I wonder how many will be kept?) and then everyone started drifting off to whatever arrangements had been made.
I went up and packed, found my socks were still wet and had to pack them separately. Then I had a quandary with the posters I had bought – too large to tuck in with the laptop for safekeeping and to keep flat and nowhere in the case I could really guarantee they would stay flat, given the way airline employees pack luggage. I ended up with them between the tracksuit top and bottom and with my fingers crossed.
I was down at 0930 and checked out, to find Christine and Carol also waiting for a private car to the airport. A few minutes later down came Lou and Joan, also waiting – and all of us to go at 1000. As it turned out, it was a minibus, which should have cost us each a lot less, but only Lou went to fight for his change (but he did distribute it amongst us during the drive). At the airport, it looked as though the minibus might not get in, but it did and through we all went – to be faced with screening of all luggage before we got to the ticket desks. I had already seen it in Moscow so I wasn’t really upset, but the others hadn’t seen it before. I was nearly through, but then had to return to take my belt, shoes and watch off and pull the laptop out (but there had been no sign about that). Inside, we all said goodbye and headed off. Just to confuse, departure boards were different numbers of screen in different positions, so eventually we all found where our flights were. Mine, due out at 1425 and, I found out, a code share with Turkish Airlines (I was on EgyptAir), came up but with no check-in counter. Eventually, after flights nearly an hour later had come up with counters, mine did. I rushed there to find about twenty already there – a tour group. How they found out first I will never know (mainly because they were all Chinese). The person just ahead of me was an Australian, so we swapped a few notes on Turkey (and he gave me a few hints on Egypt) and in very short time we were up and checking in.
I had checked mine on the Internet and the codes I had weren’t coming up. A the desk I was right, but my suitcase, with less in it that when I left Melbourne, had somehow gained weight and went on the scales at 23 kilograms. I wasn’t charged extra (otherwise I would have called the veracity of the scales into question) and then I was out to go through passport control. This was quickly finished and then it was a matter of filling in time. I had a window seat, so I was happy that the early arrival had been worth it. For my two long-haul flights home I will see if I can get the window seat at the back, where there are only two seats and not three.
I went off to have some lunch and found Burger King, like Melbourne, charges extortionate prices – from 8,25 in Istanbul to 15 at the airport. However, it was still cheaper than what else was around, so I settled for it.
The lounge we were to leave from had its departure already for the earlier flight, so I went there, again to find large numbers already in there even though it was still showing the flight before. I noticed screening machines here, so like Moscow we were going to be “done” twice. I listened to my iPod as I couldn’t find a power point for the laptop (and I’m getting pretty good at finding them now). Then half an hour before the flight, the screening started. I got in line quickly, and with my previous experience was soon through with a minimum of fuss. Memo to self: when the after-screening lounge is small and the airconditioning is not turned on, wait till last. As a result, I and the other 199 sweltered for the fifteen minutes before we could board.
We ended up leaving over half an hour late, then had a good flight (but the windows were filthy and my photographs were not good) and the meal was even quite good. We landed at about 1645 and then pulled up in the middle of nowhere and had to wait for stairs and buses to arrive before we could get to the terminal.
For the first time, I was met before Immigration and Passport control. I introduced myself to my guide, who then informed me that I would be staying at a different hotel tonight and then change to the other about 1300 tomorrow. That annoyed me because I wanted to be familiar with the area and the hotel, walk around and see the sights, and then show Divika around tomorrow morning and thus have a useful day. Now I have lost an afternoon and a morning, which I can’t get back.
I quickly got through passport control and then had to wait a few minutes for my luggage. I overheard an Australian accent and had a quick chat with two others before my suitcase arrived. My guide grabbed it and took it outside, then called for the car. It took a few minutes and then we were off.
The guide got out and left me with the driver to go to the hotel. Well. With mobile phone calls, lane changing, horn blowing and light flashing, we drove for over another hour. Our speed varied from walking pace to over 100 kilometres per hour. By the time we arrived I was wondering whether I should have jumped out at some stage for my safety, given the number of cars, trucks and buses he cut off and the number of pedestrians who jumped out of the way.
By 1820 we got to the hotel. Very flash, the Intercontinental Pyramids Park Cairo Resort Hotel. I wasn’t allowed to take my own bag, but then at the desk they weren’t sure if I was actually there. The driver got a call from the other guide and he spoke to the hotel desk clerk, who then found I was in, and I then said he had to leave a message for Divika at the hotel I should have been at. Then I enquired about Internet. Yes, WiFi – get a card at the Business Centre. That immediately turned me off, because last time my time cut out in the middle of uploading and I wasted all the time. However, I kept an open mind as I was walked around to my room. Quick spacious, reasonable facilities including tea and coffee – BUT NO MILK! They will go unused.
I unpacked and walked back to the front (a hike in itself). Yes, breakfast was included, on the second floor. To save confusion, I ascertained that this was the ground floor – only then to be told the hotel has no second floor. However, I’m pretty sure I know where it is and it’s from 0600 until 1000. There is no use in me being there early as I can’t do anything.
Off to the Business Centre. WiFi access at US$6 per thirty minutes – so that will have to wait. Back to the room, took some photos and then explored a little, to see here the papyrus that Fran wants is the equivalent of A$10 per piece! I’m in the high-priced area with no alternatives! I can only hope that the hotel tomorrow night is better located and I have the chance to look around in the afternoon. I am very upset, even though I’ll bet the guide thinks he has done me a favour, when he has actually done the exact opposite. The pool, the facilities, are of no use to me and the three things I wanted – to settle in early, get to know the neighbourhood and help the others when they arrive – I can’t do. I will complain when I am home, but it can’t help me though it may help others.
I ended up changing for bed, writing my blog, processing the photos and resetting the aircon from the 5°C that the previous occupant had set it on. Unfortunately my room backs on to an elevated freeway so there will be noise all night.
Never mind, to bed and to sleep (eventually).
But then again … I chose the bed from the two in the room, only to find long black hair already in it. As I have no hair that long, let alone black, I wondered, then chose to sleep in the other bed.