Townsville Trip with SUZI

Ride Report Melbourne to Townsville (return) Doug Mullett Summary Day One (15 / 11 / 2012) Werribee – Temora Day Two (16 / 11 / 2012) Temora – Coonamble Day Three (17 / 11 / 2012) Coonamble – Springsure Day Four (18 / 11 / 2012) Springsure – Clermont Day Five (19 / 11 / 2012) Clermont – Townsville Day Six (20 / 11 / 2012) Townsville Day Seven (21 / 11 / 2012) Townsville – Springsure Day Eight (22 / 11 / 2012) Springsure – Gilgandra Day Nine (23 / 11 / 2012) Gilgandra – Werribee 5743 km 242.5 L petrol (4.22 L/100 km, 23.7 km/L, 66.8 mpg) $363.50 for fuel $134.80 for repairs (punctures) $350 for accommodation Enjoyment and experience– priceless! Before I set out, I had packed with what I (thought I) needed. I had emergency plans as backup: A – call on Optus mobile B – call on Telstra mobile C – stop passing motorist D – UHF for local farmer or passing truckie E – EPIRB if things were really drastic. Loadings were: pillow and jacket (3 kg), clothing, etc. in A Strapz Bag (9 kg), equipment duffle (14 kg), saddle bag – food (8 kg), saddle bag – equipment and petrol (14 kg), me in protective gear and with personal items (85 kg) [total loading: 50 kg + 85 kg + 240 kg (SUZI wet)]. Thursday 15 November. I woke at my usual time of 0530, but resisted the temptation to rise until 0600. I packed everything on SUZI (panniers, duffle bag and A Strapz bag) and then showered and dressed. By that time the shop opposite was open, so I got the papers, came back and had breakfast and the regulatory three large water drinks. At 8030 I finished packing my clothing, then moved SUZI forward and at 0840 was leaving the drive. I arrived at Barry’s place just before 0900 and he took some photos and I set out. Naturally, having left plenty of time to account for traffic, it was very light and I arrived in at the Southbank Blood Bank at 0930 for a 1015 appointment. With SUZI fully laden, I parked her in the car park rather than out the front. I had to manoeuvre to get the right angle, as she was so low that the side stand left her nearly vertical. Surprisingly I was processed quickly by Lorna (who last time was new) and soon onto the couch. Another, more seasoned, nurse went through the procedure and inserted the needle. Then, 43 minutes, a double donation of platelets and a milkshake later, I was off for a snack of sausage rolls and cheese. At 1105 I was down on SUZI, warming her up and then heading out on the West Gate Freeway, the Western Ring Road and the Craigieburn Bypass. At Shell Kalkallo I filled SUZI up and left at 1210 on the Hume Freeway. I stopped at the Grass Tree Rest Stop for a snack, then at the Glenrowan Rest stop where I had an ice-cream and a quick chat with a fellow biker who had bought a new bike in Melbourne and was riding it back to Newcastle. Then I called in at the YHA at Lavington to pick up one of my towels (I had left them there a week and a half ago). I filled up at Shell just down the road and ended up in conversation with a LSC NSW policeman about motorcycles and rain. The rain we talked about popped up not long after I left, but was very light. I headed off up the Olympic Highway to meet the Newell Highway at West Wyalong and recalled that I would be travelling through Temora. I decided to overnight at the Patchwork Inn and called in – but found no Teresa there, instead a Donna inn-sitting. After a few minutes and a call, I ended up staying the night. I started the procedure of unpacking and putting everything into my room. I had some dinner and then went to visit the Wests – and found Bill and Jenny at home, but Laurel was at work. We chatted, I found how Ino was and then I returned to my evening’s home and went to sleep. Friday 16 November Woke overnight at 0330 and then finally up at 0630. Showered, dressed and had breakfast – no-one else around until I had finished. Brought SUZI out of the garage and loaded her up, then completed dressing in gear. I chatted with Donna (from Delegate) and finally departed at 0845. It was a good day for travelling, but rather cool as I had taken all the liners out. Generally, below 20°C I need all liners, up to 25°C I can have the waterproof liners and over 25° I can go with no liners. I do need leg coverings though, and have found cheap long johns are good in all weathers. Refuelled in Forbes and got service – the windscreen cleaned! A great job which I couldn't emulate. The Olympic Highway was bumpy but the Newell Highway was better. I went straight through Parkes and into roadworks twelve kilometres out when – DISASTER! SUZI squirmed and felt unstable, so I pulled over and found I had a flat! The rear tyre was down. As I was close to town, I decided to call for assistance and let the NRMA handle it. At 1150 I called and waited. After the tray-top arrived and we got her up, it was a short run back into Parkes and to the Suzuki dealer. After a wait, where I went shopping and playing tourist, a screw was found in the rear tyre and a patch was put on. Soon I was on my way at 1450 and $120 lighter. The weather had warmed up so it was very comfortable travelling. I managed to make it through Dubbo without stopping at Hungry Jacks, but soon the weather deteriorated. I got to Gilgandra about 1645 and called in at the Tourist Information Centre. After discussion, I got a booking at a hotel at Coonamble, just over an hour up the road, as it was a little too uncomfortable to camp with the rain. I refuelled immediately after arriving in Coonamble, then found the Terminus Hotel and booked in at 1815. I unloaded SUZI and took everything into my $40 room. Not the Ritz, but comfortable. I had the local burger and chips for tea (couldn’t finish it) and called in to notify all that I was safe for the evening. I also reminded Mike that I was on my way to Townsville. In the guests’ lounge I chatted to an East German here working on harvest (for a Warracknabeal company!) and a few of his workmates. Then by 2200 I was in bed and soon asleep. Saturday 17 November I woke about 0600 and eventually rose at 0630, showered and dressed and then had some breakfast. I brought SUZI around to the front of the hotel for easy packing, but found that a car there had been broken into. The owner was furious – but had a picture of the miscreant on a video set up inside the cab! I wouldn’t like to see how the perpetrator looked after the victim found him! I packed SUZI up and discarded my cheap camel pack – the straps had broken! I kept the bladder and put it between my clothes and duffle bag. Very soon I was on my way. Despite having packed twice before, this time everything moved around and I had to stop a number of times to tight and reposition all luggage. Then about twenty kilometres south of Walgett – DISASTER 2! My pillow and PJs had gone! I went back about ten kilometres, but couldn’t see them, so pushed on. After going though Walgett and arriving at Hebel, I gained an hour – no daylight saving in Queensland. After a cold drink, I went on through St George. At Surat, I stopped to retighten my load (at 39°C) and within two minutes it was raining and then hailing and the temperature dropped to 28°C. I sheltered in the local museum/library/ tourism centre but left SUZI and the luggage to tough it out – no water leaks – and after a few minutes left to go to Roma, where I filled up. Roma was full for the races – no accommodation, no parking, 40 kmph speed limits and the main road narrowed to allow for a taxi rank! Then I went on to Injune, a nice little centre I recommend to anyone travelling this way. The Tourist Information Centre was open, but no power. I had a chat with the woman working there and her friend, and a cup of tea – no power, so we were literally all in the dark. The public toilets next door are clean and well-appointed, so I used them. I went to refuel, but of course no power so no petrol! I went on to Rolleston, and found a 24 hour card fuel facility. While filling, I chatted with a couple who had just come from the north and were disappointed with the amount and quality of roadworks. I made their day by telling them it would be worse as they went further south. I had been held up a number of times by roadworks and the road surfaces in general were undulating and damaged. As it was dark now, I went on slowly (at 75 kmph, hard for those who know me to believe, but on SUZI, a kangaroo becomes a formidable obstacle and I didn’t want to find out how formidable – ABS not withstanding. I pulled into a truck stop and had a drink and something to eat, but a truck there had its generator on and the noise was annoying. After messaging (there was signal) I went on through Springsure and a few kilometres out and found a Lions roadside stop with a shelter, no noise and no lights. I pulled over, walked over to the picnic tables and lay down on the concrete seat. I found the crash helmet makes a passable pillow with the padding inside, the gear keeps me free from annoying pests and everything keeps me warm. After laying down, within a few minutes I was asleep – sharing the area with a few vans, one tent and a few cars. Sunday 18 November I woke at dawn (I did not pull the blind closed on the helmet) with the light and the noise of the local wildlife. I had some biscuits and drink, pushed SUZI out onto the side of the roadway and started her (I didn’t want to wake everyone else, still asleep). By 0540 I was on my way. I had a good run north to Emerald, where I refuelled, cleaned SUZI’s screen and had a drink at the truck stop. Emerald has traffic lights and a new shopping centre just opposite the truck stop. Driving though Emerald I saw it was a large centre with many facilities. Going north I went through Capella, a small town with showers in the public toilet block. If I had had more time, I would have refreshed myself here and bought goods from the town – I will if I go through again, either by bike or car. I went through Clermont and looked at the town. Usually I have gone through during hours of darkness and seen little of the town, so I had a good look. I headed off north on a reasonable road, with a few roadworks, when 120 kilometres north of Clermont – DISASTER 3! Squirming again, so I stopped and – another flat on the rear tyre. As I was isolated, I decided to repair it myself. I unpacked SUZI, took my jacket off and put a hat on (hate them, but with 42°C and low humidity, there was no choice). I pumped the tyre up, listened, found a leak and then checked with a little water – it was the patch put on in Parkes that was leaking! I put a string in, waited, then pumped the tyre up again. No leak from my repair – success! But before I could reload, the tyre was down again. I re-inflated it and could hear a leak, but couldn’t feel it to locate it and a small amount of water couldn’t find it either. I could repair a puncture, but not if I couldn’t find it. I didn’t want to use my three litres in the camel pack bladder on the tyre because of the weather, so decided to call on the RACQ. No signal on either mobile, so I stopped a passing car heading south, about 1100, and asked Shane if he could contact the RACQ for me (I gave him all the details). A few cars passing asked if they could assist, but there wasn’t much that could be done except wait. I waited over in the minimal shade of one of the few trees until at about 1400 when I had run out of cool water – I had two litres of water left, but in the sun in metal containers, it was too hot to drink. Just as I was going to flag down a car to get some water, a tray-truck arrived to spirit SUZI back to Clermont. With SUZI on and my gear filling the cab of the truck, I found there would be no chance of a repair today, but with RACV Total Care I would be accommodated for the night. Back in Clermont all was arranged and the driver let me off at the Leo Hotel/Motel (with all my gear) and left SUZI on the truck to be dropped off tomorrow morning at the tyre store. I picked up my key, put all the gear in my room and then showered and changed into normal clothes. I made a few calls so no-one would worry, them went into the bar and had a drink with the local and others staying here. The barmaid was from Wales (Cardiff) on a year’s backpacking working holiday. Just before I left, I got a call from Shane, wondering what had happened and concerned about my welfare. Nice! At 1800 I went to the dining room, ordered the all-day breakfast, spent half an hour trying to eat it all (made it eventually) and then went back to my room. On the way I had a chat with another guest who was here for a wedding (a relative married a bikie!) and who was from Karumba, on the gulf. Then it was into bed and a real night’s sleep! Monday 19 November I woke at 0600 and made my own breakfast, showered and dressed. I packed everything up and then walked around to see how SUZI was. The puncture had been located (on the opposite side of the tread, but same side of the tyre, as the repair I had done) and they suggested a string repair. I asked about the efficacy of the repair but got a non-committal reply. So I told them to go with it (it would take another day for a new tyre to arrive) and I went back to dress. By the time I returned, all was done. I had to point out the repair I had done (they hadn’t noticed it) and so had confidence in my new-found skill. I refuelled SUZI and then went back to the motel, loaded her up and then checked out. Not being sure, I headed north at a reduced speed and stopped frequently to check. No problems. I stopped at Belyando Crossing and had a drink. I chatted to a truckie who introduced me to Stanley, the Labrador and a half who lived on the food donated by others (and ate it even in his sleep) and to the parrots who scavenged sugar and would eat it off people’s hands. I had a milkshake, checked the tyre again (no problems) and headed off. I kept the speed down all the way to Charters Towers. I stopped and visited the Tourism Centre and struck a volunteer who had a bike, but sold it when his wife died (recently). I was impressed by Charters Towers, but would only stay when it was a bit cooler (winter). I could have cried as I had to refuse his offer of maps, as I had nowhere to carry them! I got drink after a short walk, then headed off on the last run into Townsville. I went a little faster, but not too much. I arrived on the outskirts of Townsville and refuelled at Shell, using a voucher – just over 20 litres, into a 20 litre tank! I did some shopping at SuperCheap (more straps, so I don’t lose luggage) on the way to the caravan park I was going to camp at. I arrived at 1750 and with the imminent threat of storms, squibbed and booked a cabin. I unpacked SUZI, had some tea, rang Fran and then rang Mike. Fifteen minutes later I was visiting Mike and Marylyn and Pat and Terry. After a lot of catching up (from a few feet away – I was still in all my gear), I eventually left, went back to the cabin, had a shower and went to bed. Tuesday 20 November Today was the day of visiting the relatives. I woke at 0600 and went back to sleep until 0700, watched a little ABC TV news, had breakfast, then showered and dressed. About 0900 I went around to the office and bought the puzzle magazines for the week and started doing them. At 1000 I went out to look for Marylyn and the others … only to find they had been waiting at the cabin for a few minutes. I hopped in the back and we were soon off to the Heritage Tea Room in the Harvey Range. It was a scenic drive on the way up and a different view for me – back seat (not driving) and with others in a car (after four days on SUZI). As we rose in altitude, the temperature dropped slightly but the humidity dropped more quickly. We soon arrived and all decided to have the full breakfast. The food was good and we all had accompanying hot drinks. Apparently the owner is in Melbourne, there is a manager, so while it is still good, it doesn’t have the verve it originally had. Inside is an historical display of the area, including the Eureka Hotel (not THE Eureka). We dallied and had a relaxing time there. We then went back into Townsville and stopped in at the Willows Shopping Centre for me to buy a pillow (couldn’t get a Dunlopillo, settled for a Tontine) and PJs to replace those that went west (literally) between Coonamble and Walgett. Then we went into the museum, where the big display was about the HMS Pandora, the vessel sent out to recover the Bounty mutineers. It sank, so there was the story and many relics. At 1430 there was a mock cannon firing, which we all enjoyed (others in the museum only stayed a short time). After a further look around, we returned home for some afternoon tea and further catching up. One of Marylyn’s dogs was overeager to see her and wanted to play non-stop! Mike arrived home after 1730 and after further chatting (and a lot of reminiscing) we had tea. A friend (Mark) from around the corner dropped in and added character to the discussion. Eventually the evening had to come to an end and so I said goodbye and I, my new pillow and PJs and a motorcycling jacket (ex-Mike) were dropped off at the park. Very quickly I was changed, into bed and asleep. Wednesday 21 November I woke at 0530 but couldn’t go back to sleep. I assembled the (unused) light swag from Rays, only to have a hoop member snap as I disassembled it – and the material tore! I packed everything up and packed SUZI, except for clothing and the new pillow. Then it was breakfast (noodles, weetbix, tea and water), a shower, dressing and final packing. I was on SUZI and at the gate just after 0800. I dropped the key off and was out and on my way home. In less than half an hour I was out of Townsville suburbs and on the Flinders Highway to Charters Towers. The temperature rose steadily on the ride out and was in the mid 30s when I pulled in to the Woolworths car park. I bought a coke and two packs of fruit boxes, had the coke and packed the fruit boxes into the cooler in the saddle bag. I filled up at Caltex on the way out (note: Tropic Petroleum needs to know the difference between forcourt and forecourt). A few minutes out of town and I was turning south towards Belyando Crossing. I increased speed to the maximum (indicated) and cruised. All was well. At Belyando Crossing I had a milkshake, spoke to Stanley (he ignored me – no food) and felt at home. Then I was off, south to Clermont, where I went into town to refuel again. I chatted to a miner who thought I would be too hot (not as long as I’m moving) and recognised two girls (from Belyando Crossing) who pulled up to refuel as I was leaving. Then it was south to Emerald, where I pulled up at SuperCheap to get a 19 mm spanner (to make sure I didn’t bottom SUZI, so of course I didn’t and the spanner remains unused). After, I stopped at the Truck Stop for tea and called Fran and Jason while I was there. A South African living here spoke with me, thinking again that I was a lot hotter than I really was. I joked with a truckie about a frozen coke and watched part of “Hot Seat”. After a good rest I was off. After dark I decided to pull up at the Lions Rest stop just north of Springsure (where I had slept on the way up). I pulled up, switched SUZI off and slung my helmet over the handle bar. I had a look around, found why it was so famous and then went to start SUZI. DISASTER! Although in neutral, the gear change wasn’t indicating so and I wasn’t going to garb up until she was running (too warm). I tried everything but I couldn’t even get a response. So I decided to rest for the night – the new pillow was off and then was a rest for the evening. No TV or radio reception, so I watched a movie and then went to sleep. Thursday 22 November I woke at dawn to a chorus of local bird life and light. In the cool morning I reckoned I could fix anything, so I walked over to SUZI, put the key in, completed my pre-drive check – and found the “KILL” switch was on! Doh! She now slipped into neutral, so I walked her over to the parking area, packed her up and pressed the start switch – and she started first off! A few minutes to finish dressing for the road and we were off by 0540. Through Springsure, past Rolleston and into Injune for refuelling and a late brunch. Recognised a truckie from Emerald and a lady who had been in the Tourist Information Centre on the way up. Finished, then headed south through Roma and into St George. Refuelled and upset a BMW driver by taking the time to put my helmet and gloves on (he shot through and filled up elsewhere). South again and stopped in Hebel for a milkshake – spoke with a local cotton worker who commented on the heat. Then off south again, after stopping at 1555 and leaving at 1710 (no daylight saving in Queensland). Now in NSW, I was soon at Walgett, where I refuelled and had another drink before setting out further south. I had lost my pillow and PJs roughly half-way between here and Coonamble, so I primed myself to be ready to be on the lookout. Twelve kilometres south I spied a Woolworths grey shopping bag by the roadside, so I turned around and stopped. Success! Well, partial success. I found the PJs (still buttoned up) and the soap from the pocket – but not the other Woolworths grey shopping bag nor my beloved Dunlopillo pillow in its lime green pillowslip with a chewed corner. I packed up the PJs and continued on, standing on the pegs and looking very hard until distance and light defeated me about fifty kilometres from Coonamble. Now another threat raised its head. A white four-wheel-drive was coming the other way. I was travelling in the right-hand wheel track, claiming the lane while also tying to find the most comfortable place to ride. About 500 metres away from me, the white four-wheel-drive moved to his right, now travelling astride the centre line and with his right-hand wheel in the same track as mine. I moved over to the left-hand wheel track, only to find he was moving over into the same track. At about a hundred metres separation, I suddenly moved over of the left of the edge lining, passing him with about a metre between us. Once past, I moved back over and looked in the mirror to see him moving over to the correct side. I didn’t notice the driver or the registration number because of all the thoughts in my head, but one though was paramount – here I was with two H4 55w bulbs on (and most likely higher than they should be because of the load) and I wasn’t seen! So much for having headlights on – be safe, be seen. After my blood pressure dropped back, I went on through Coonamble, on to Gilgandra and into the little motel I knew. $60 for a single and within ten minutes I had unpacked everything (but locked the panniers on as they were too dirty to take inside) and was having a shower. Soon I was into bed, having had two cups of tea, a fruit box drink and a glass of cold water – and put the mobile onto charge. Within a few minutes I was asleep. Friday 23 November I woke at 0600 and tried to sleep until 0630 when I got up, had a cup of tea, a fruit box and a glass of water. I packed most up, then packed SUZI except for clothing and then showered and dressed. I finished packing SUZI, warmed her up and was off at 0755. It was a good run to Dubbo, where I filled up at Shell (had to wait to turn right at the roundabout) and cleaned the windscreen (but not as well as the servo attendant at Forbes). Then it was Hungry Jacks for breakfast (Whopper value meal) and to load up on Fanta (no Coke). As I was leaving, I chatted to two brothers from Forbes who were in Dubbo to take their mother out for her 80th birthday. Then I was off, through Parkes and Forbes and into West Wyalong. Before there, I pulled over in a rest area to go to the toilet and oil the chain. On the way out I heard a motorcycle horn toot. As I pulled into the servo I saw another bike there, so after filling and paying, I chatted to Paul. He had a nearly new BMW 1200 GS, tricked up (farkled) with metal panniers, a heavy-duty duffle, a small cover pack, tank bag, SatNav and driving lights. He was from Brisbane and off to Broome for six months for work. It was his rundown/shakedown trip, to determine what was really necessary (different for every individual). After discussing items and routes (he was going through Melbourne), we parted with him going first. Within ten minutes he was out of my sight, but I caught up to him while he was stopped, eating fruit before a checkpoint. I continued on and into Jerilderie. Here I bought a paper. Then I was into Findley and Tocumwal, where a huge roundabout was being constructed. Once over the border, a police car had pulled a vehicle over and a dog handler was bringing a dog up to the car. Then just north of the junction with the Murray Valley Highway, police had pulled over a number of cars, which were in various stages of unpacking/packing. I got into Shepparton and had a meal at Hungry Jacks again (small this time). Then it was fill up at Shell and off on the ride home. This was familiar territory, so I tried to take special care. The ride home was routine – except that just near Beveridge, a girl in a black hatchback (ZDZ 140) waved at me but didn’t realise I would see her. I waved back and she looked amazed and gave me a “thumbs up”, which I reciprocated. The driver was on green Ps. Then it was onto the Ring Road and the Princes Freeway. The final drive home was marred by a driver and passenger both texting at the Palmers Road roadworks (it’s easy to see from higher and closer on a bike). At just before 2000 I pulled into the drive, turned SUZI around and parked her, gave her a pat and switched her off. I rang Fran to relieve her mind and Mike to tell him I was safely home. My trip was over. Now, after my first longish ride with SUZI (nine days, eight nights and just over 5700 km), there are a few things I’ve learned and I few things I now know I don’t know. What I’ve learned: I need an Airhawk cushion for more than 500 km per day; I should stand on the pegs for a minute or so every half hour; I need an old newspaper to shield everything when I lube the chain; I can travel at 100-110 kmph with the visor up and sunglasses on (less noisy than with the visor down); I need a “can” puncture repair as well as strings and a compressor; I should only take seven days of clothing (will force me to take a rest day for washing); concrete benches are comfortable to sleep on as long as I’m fully garbed up (including helmet); I need liners irrespective of the forecast temperature; riding in gentle rain in warm/hot weather is very cooling; riding in dry hot weather means I have to drink around a litre an hour; when it’s hot, I keep cool riding, but when stopped, like an egg in three minutes I’m cooked; passing motorists (and bikers) are very kind when you’re broken down; luggage should be strapped, wrapped and strapped again (and again); country servos will wash your windscreen; fuel economy ranges from 18 km/L at 120 to 26 km/L at 85/90; any non-flexible ear plugs hurt after a few hours; three litres of “working water” (and three litres of drinking water) are needed; an iPod keeps me singing and humming along; in heavy rain, raindrops coming in through helmet vents hurt; keeping paper and other items in ziplock bags in pockets keeps them in good condition; don’t wear collared shirts (collars become too grimy); head nods of recognition are not universal, but I’m uncomfortable with lifting a hand to wave; little children love a wave or toot when you’re stopped next to them; I become more sociable as I stop every two hours (unlike six/eight hours in the car); don’t carry anything on my back; don’t have my pillion load too far forward; Andy’s pillion bags hold on with Velcro with 14 kg in each side; SUZI fully loaded is very difficult to stand up straight when she had a lean to stand; it’s almost impossible to get my leg through at one go with high luggage on the back; other drivers sometimes are out to kill me; drivers do appreciate me indicating when it’s safe to pass; snack on something every time I stop (especially if I’m on medication); don't change diet suddenly when I'm travelling in remote areas; look at the tyres at every stop. What I haven’t learned; - and you thought War and Peace was a thick book! STROMMING ME SOFTLY WITH HER SONG Stromming my dreams with her engine Giving me life with her wheels Thrilling me softly with her revs Thrilling me softly with her revs Giving my life meaning with her hum Thrilling me softly with her revs I heard she was a good ride I heard she had much style And so I came to own her for a while And there she was this Wee Strom a stranger to my style Stromming my dreams with her engine Giving me life with her wheels Thrilling me softly with her revs Thrilling me softly with her revs Giving my life meaning with her hum Thrilling me softly with her revs I felt all flushed with fever Enthralled by the ride I felt she knew my dreams and filled each one out loud I prayed that she would stop but she just kept right on Stromming my dreams with her engine Giving me life with her wheels Thrilling me softly with her revs Thrilling me softly with her revs Giving my life meaning with her hum Thrilling me softly with her revs She sang as we rode further Into my childhood dreams And then she kept on going as if I wasn’t there And she just kept on revving clear and strong Stromming my dreams with her engine Giving me life with her wheels Thrilling me softly with her revs Thrilling me softly with her revs Giving my life meaning with her hum Thrilling me softly with her revs

Bourke 2011

As an aside, occasionally I travel by accident.

One day in July, a friend rang one Friday from Bourke - her car was broken into to be stolen, but the thieves were unlucky (it had an immobiliser - no key, no start) and so was she. It was undrivable. She had to be back in Melbourne on Tuesday, so never one to be backward I went up on the Sunday and drove her back on the Monday. Bourke is about 1000 km from home, so it only took ten hours (quite a bit in NSW was 110 and I didn't have to stop for fuel).

A few weeks later I did the reverse, picking her up from her home and driving her up to Bourke. Again it was simply the day up, overnight, then back the next day.

Unfortunately it was soon found out the thieves had done a botchy job - the car was not economically repairable, so she couldn't drive it home. I was away, so she came back by public transport. After a lot of looking around, she ended up buying a new car in Werribee. It spent its first night under my carport, then I drove it up to Bourke (and ran it in). We stayed up for a weekend, then packed all her belongings in (they fitted!) and we took it in turns driving it back.

I had made the offhand comment that I enjoyed driving so much that I never had the cash to really indulge it enough, so she took me at my word and we both benefitted.

For anyone interested, the route was the Ring Road, Hume Freeway, Northern Highway, then the Kidman Way. Very interesting scenery and towns like Shepparton, Griffith, Hillside and Cobar broke the drive up. Take music because radio reception is discontinuous. A very enjoyable trip which could be expanded up to a week and varied by returning through Deniliquin and Echuca - then three weeks, a week each way and a week in and around Bourke - or shorter, as required, but three days minimum. Bourke does has a Maritime Courthouse!

Where I've Been

visited 23 states (10.2%)
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January 14

The last day in New Zealand and I was awake at 0215 (not because of anticipation, but because of our flight time) and up at 0225. I showered, dressed and finished packing. Fran was quickly up and dressed. We had a cup of tea, I had a can of coke and took the suitcases outside.
Our taxi arrived at 0310, so we packed up and were off to airport. We arrived at 0330 with a fare of NZ$24.50 but it was only NZ$22 with our discount coupon. We went into the terminal and found that our flight was departing from the domestic terminal. There were no staff around, no check-ins open, but quite a few passengers. I quickly found that the auto check-in doesn’t work for International departures from the Domestic Terminal. After wandering to the International Terminal, I eventually found out because of shift changes, no-one would be on until 0430. There were very small signs and generally poor signage. We went into the lines at 0430, had our suitcases weighed (20.4 kg each) and were passed through. The luggage was going straight through to Adelaide, so that was no problem. We had to wait until the departure gate opened, then went through. There was no real problem at the security point. Finally we got onto the plane to Auckland and we were off on time. Sunrise was during the flight and scenery was nice.
We arrived at Auckland on time and went quickly around to the departure point for the flight to Adelaide. Here the security check was okay but my pack was selected for random testing – and, low and behold, it tested POSITIVE for EXPLOSIVES!
Fortunately both I and the tester were sensible about it, because like a lot of things, one negative test negates many positive tests. He reset the machine, used a fresh test strip and – all clear! Off we went, but now with little time. However we still made it to the flight on time and, again on time, the flight headed off to Adelaide.
The flight back was smooth, but they ran out of a selection of food so it was either take what was offered or nothing. After twenty flights within the last year, I didn’t mind and just ate what I liked.
We landed in Adelaide on time and I rang Ashley to pick us up. He was already at the airport, so we went through Customs and Immigration, hoping for no delays. Immigration was quick, but Fran held us up at two points because of declaring all the medicines and so on that she had, and because she ran into a parent from school. However, even so, we were through very quickly once the officials realised what Fran had (no prohibited material) and so we were soon in the public area of the terminal and met Ashley. Quickly we took the luggage to the car, put it and ourselves in and, for Fran, her New Zealand holiday was over.
For me, over a year of travelling had come to an end – and is never likely to be repeated!

January 13

This was our last full day in New Zealand. I was up at 0710, had tea and toast, then showered and dressed. Quite a bit of time was spent organising luggage, but mainly emptying the car out.
We set out at 0900 and went to visit the Antarctic Centre. We arrived at 0915 and finally left at 1115.
During the time we spent in the centre, I spent some time in the cool room. This was normally at –8°C but on occasions the wind machine started up and there was a wind chill down to –21°C. We had a look at the penguins, most of who were either injured or physically incapable of caring for themselves in the wild. When they were being fed, it was interesting to see the different behaviour of the individual penguins – some were gluttons, some shy and some would only take food from a particular keeper. On the way out, we went into the “storm”, down to –20°C. Both the normal temperature and the storm conditions were warmer than yard duty at Werribee on the oval in winter.
On the way out we went for a ride on the “Hegglund” all-terrain vehicle. Fran had to ride in the front because the back was full (normally this would be an area for troops. It was very different, climbing up 45° slopes and traversing 40° slopes and then floating through over a metre of water. I was interested because I had seen fleets of them in the northern areas of Finland and Norway.
We returned to the city and parked on the street. We walked through a mall to visit Christ Church. Here we looked around and I walked up the tower. The view over the city was impressive, but unlike European places, modern buildings had blocked out long-distance views. There was a performance on in the square, which we looked at for a time. There was audience participation, reluctant on the part of some but everyone ended up enjoying themselves. There was also a tourist tram which ran around the central parts of the city. Opposite the tram stop was a giant chessboard, with people playing chess there.
We walked back to the car and headed off to visit the Roman Catholic Cathedral – I had promised the preist at Invercargill that we would visit, and it was quite impressive, but lacking in the grandeur of Christ church. We had lunch at a Burger King and then bought soup for tea at an adjacent supermarket.
After that we went out to the New Zealand Air Force museum. It seemed much smaller than I remembered, but the problem is that I have been to too many since then – and some of them were huge. The afternoon wore on and we went back to the motel. I emptied the car and left Fran at the motel while I drove to the depot to drop the car off. At the same time I was returning the car, there was a French couple picking up a car. I could now appreciate how difficult it would be for them – language, colloquial speech relating to driving, driving on the “wrong side”, unfamiliar road signs and in a different language. I got driven back to the motel.
The shops were still open so we walked around to Westfield Riccarton shopping centre and went through a variety of shops there – but there was no shopping as our luggage was already up to weight. Then we went back to the motel and had tea, using up any food which we had left.
Later in the evening I transferred and processed today’s photos, wrote up today’s blog as a summary and then watched a little TV. We went to sleep early as we had to be up at 0215 tomorrow to catch our taxi at 0315 tomorrow morning to the airport.

January 12

Despite the late evening, I was awake and up at 0640. It was tea, toast, coke and then a shower and finally dressing. I packed up, checked the unit and then packed the car. Because we left so early, we left the key in the unit and were on the road by 0745. I refuelled in Dunedin city at Mobil, heading south, and then left, going north, at 0755. We went by the Moeraki Boulders and I gave Fran the same commentary as yesterday, just so she knew I could remember. Not far north, we went through back roads to cut across to the main road to Mt Cook via Takiroa, where we stopped to view Maori paintings. We stopped in Kurow to use a toilet – they were very clean and there was an interesting display in the town.
After that stop we went straight through to Mt Cook. Our first stop to view Mt Cook was at Peter’s Lookout – there were many views as we went along the road through the valley, each unique in its own way. At Mt Cook Settlement, we looked through the Visitor Centre, which was new – it had not been there when I had last visited with mum. We ate our lunch outside at the picnic benches – Fran spilled her drink water in her bag over books and all the paperwork in there. When we left we drove back through Geraldine (I got a photo for Elizabeth there) and Ashburton, drove over a very long bridge (remember that a lot of New Zealand rivers are glacial, and so have small and narrow main channels but wide beds up to a mile wide) and had to put NZ$10 petrol in along the way (too close to call, so I decided to play safe).
We got into Christchurch at 1705 and went straight into our motel. It seemed very good. I immediately booked a taxi for Wednesday morning early, to go to the airport. In the unit we had a cup of tea and unpacked. I checked my emails, but the Internet allowance was not sufficient to upload photos. We went out for tea at Robbie’s, as we had a discount voucher from the motel for a meal there. We walked there and back. At the office, Fran requested a newspaper for tomorrow morning (we had seen a police car rushing up towards Mt Cook and wanted to know what the story was).
Back in the unit we changed, I processed today’s photos and then summarised my blog for today. Fran watched TV while I did this and we were soon to bed and to sleep about 2200.

January 11

Again it was the usual procedure, up at 0640, a cup of tea, toast, a shower and got dressed.
I packed, packed car and got ready to leave. Alas again, the hosts don’t make things clear and I found I was up for a NZ$5 charge for Internet, so I was not too happy. Next time I will be ensuring that either the cost is stated upfront or otherwise I will not pay.
We set course for Mt Cook but Fran soon decided the day would be too long. After filling up at Shell (no Woolworths discount dockets) in Invercargill, I headed out (on wrong heading) for the Southern Scenic Route. I eventually caught up with the correct route after going through some very scenic little places.
Along the way we sidetracked into a number of interesting places – one was Niagara Falls, certainly falls but on a different scale to the Canadian/American one. There were nice beaches and coastal scenery at Curio Bay and Owaka.
At Nugget Point we had something to eat from the prepared food we had bought the day before and then walked out on the point to see the rugged scenery and many seals resting on rock shelves and small sandy areas. Back at the car, we spoke briefly to a couple in the car next to us – another brother and sister, the sister from near Invercargill but the brother from Melton (Vic), who had his Mazda car serviced at Werribee (just near where I have DOUG, ARTIE and DOUG 2 serviced). We called in at Balclutha and then went straight onto Dunedin. Unfortunately the SatNav took us on a torturous route before we found the motel. We booked in, put all the luggage in and went straight off to Moeraki. At Moeraki the tide was nearly in, and we had to scrabble along the top edge of the beach and at the foot of a cliff. I had no problem to see the boulders but Fran was reluctant to run the risk of being trapped by the sea. Then it was quickly back to Dunedin where we did some shopping.
After going back to the motel and unloading that shopping, we set out to the Otago Peninsula. There were some very scenic areas along the way, and out at the point we got fish and chips for tea (at a very busy shop). We went right out to Taiaroa Head and then headed back to Sandfly Bay, on the advice of the chip shop owner and a customer.
We parked in the car park, then went down to beach. Along the way we saw some wildlife officers who confirmed there would be sea lions for sure and penguins possibly. The path started out as a sealed track, then sandy, then scrabbling across dunes. We walked along the beach to a hide, passing very close to a sea lion. We saw many sea lions from the hide but only one penguin (from hide) struggling up a cliff-face. It stopped for a breather, but out of our sight. On the way back along the beach we saw another climbing up a sand face. Fran had real trouble getting back from the beach, having great difficulty on the loose sand of a few dunes. We ended up with me at one end of a stick pulling Fran at the other (lower) end. Even so, it took a long time and gave Fran a bit of a scare.
After that, and a drive back along a narrow ridge with strong winds pushing us in both directions (but not at the same time), we were back at the motel by 2245. Fran went straight to bed. I piggybacked on an open network and checked my email, then transferred and processed photos, summarised my blog (no detail, as it was getting late), did some other work and then went to bed.